SwampNut

Pure CICO has been proven false.

Good start, BUT... The battery has that voltage straight out of the bike? The bike that was only producing 12.something? Or after being charged outside the bike?

Most people believe that exercise is critical for weight loss, but it's really not. It's helpful, but not that important. In some cases, it has been psychologically counter-productive. https://nutritionfacts.org/video/friday-favorites-the-exercise-myth-and-secret-for-weight-loss Don't look it up: How many Oreos do you burn by climbing the Empire State building and back down?

If the voltage goes up at high RPM, then they can be related. I believe you said it doesn't, at least, not by a huge amount. So not likely related, not impossible either. You're chasing a ghost now. You need to fix this, so just fix it and see. Also if you need a battery, I've put lithiums in my last two birds, and everything else, and will never buy another AGM.

Maybe, dunno. I have yet to ride a delinked bike that I liked.

Shipment is very close, finally...

No not common, yes totally possible. I did a LONG ride with a fucked stator AND reg/rectifier, head/tail light unplugged, and really low voltage. It ran OK. This doesn't mean every bike will behave that way of course.

I'm not saying it's rocket surgery, but it's long and annoying for parts of it. For example the front lower fork "master" to the rear caliper was not working with vacuum for me, it pulled in air. So I ended up using a trigger clamp to compress it, release it, compress, etc, while Moriah did the open/close on the nipple in back.

Oh dear child. No. At least for the linked front to back part.

Not at all normal. Yet the symptoms you noted still don't line up with a voltage issue. But who knows on a 25 year old bike.

Ignore everything I said before. I thought this was a NEW problem. It's 98% likely to be the mods. Clean the filter, and lightly re-oil it properly (K&Ns suck, might even just try running without it for a test). I don't know anything about the PC, bypass it if you can. At NeXXt I'm constantly nasally assaulted by the various bikes with these mods that run super rich. Eventually I ride slower to be away from them.

Your short experience with it leads me to ask...did it EVER run well when you've owned it? Or did you get it with the problem? If the latter, I would suspect some programming issue with all the aftermarket stuff.

You may be giving too much credit there. I can only assume it's along the lines of insufficient power to run the EFI and/or ignition. A failure mode I've never heard of, I ran mine down to a really dead battery after a stator failure before it quit. Pretty sure no, again every failure I've read of flowed fuel right away. Odd, I would expect a clogged injector or other common issues that are not the FPR to make it run lean. Could it just be imagination, or other variables?

I forgot to add a note on this, to be more clear. Any fuel that leaks out of the FPR goes into the line into the carb, and enrichens it or floods it. A small leak would then be a slight hiccup in a single cylinder, but the bike would still run. With a major leak the bike won't run at all, no fuel pressure. FPR failures don't leak visibly, just through that one line. I don't know if there's an FPR failure where it does NOT leak, but have never heard of one. It seems like anything that could go wrong would cause leakage/flooding.

Yeah this, and a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 will help hold the tank area open. I've done this a lot. I got my FPR from Partzilla, at the time it was the last one in the country. There are third party versions on eBay. I made a bunch of calls and it really was the only one in the country. I was surprised to see how every dealer now has access to every other dealer's inventory. Hopefully they've restocked? I had to look, back in stock: https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16740-MAT-E22?ref=7cc2d06c61c94b967b14df385071e26be34292df