SwampNut

Ignore everything I said before. I thought this was a NEW problem. It's 98% likely to be the mods. Clean the filter, and lightly re-oil it properly (K&Ns suck, might even just try running without it for a test). I don't know anything about the PC, bypass it if you can. At NeXXt I'm constantly nasally assaulted by the various bikes with these mods that run super rich. Eventually I ride slower to be away from them.

Your short experience with it leads me to ask...did it EVER run well when you've owned it? Or did you get it with the problem? If the latter, I would suspect some programming issue with all the aftermarket stuff.

You may be giving too much credit there. I can only assume it's along the lines of insufficient power to run the EFI and/or ignition. A failure mode I've never heard of, I ran mine down to a really dead battery after a stator failure before it quit. Pretty sure no, again every failure I've read of flowed fuel right away. Odd, I would expect a clogged injector or other common issues that are not the FPR to make it run lean. Could it just be imagination, or other variables?

I forgot to add a note on this, to be more clear. Any fuel that leaks out of the FPR goes into the line into the carb, and enrichens it or floods it. A small leak would then be a slight hiccup in a single cylinder, but the bike would still run. With a major leak the bike won't run at all, no fuel pressure. FPR failures don't leak visibly, just through that one line. I don't know if there's an FPR failure where it does NOT leak, but have never heard of one. It seems like anything that could go wrong would cause leakage/flooding.

Yeah this, and a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 will help hold the tank area open. I've done this a lot. I got my FPR from Partzilla, at the time it was the last one in the country. There are third party versions on eBay. I made a bunch of calls and it really was the only one in the country. I was surprised to see how every dealer now has access to every other dealer's inventory. Hopefully they've restocked? I had to look, back in stock: https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16740-MAT-E22?ref=7cc2d06c61c94b967b14df385071e26be34292df

LOL! I see you've never done it on a XX. Or, you did the half-assed one that probably wouldn't have fixed this.

I've sent this to everyone who I think is interested, but if I missed someone... Reta 70mg (as tested), $513 Tirz 100, $327 KLOW 80, $328 (this sucks, my last buy was 35% less) Bacteriostatic water 30ml, $24 Figure on $25ish for BTC exchange and shipping.

We now have a timeline, since the products are in the US and triple tested. They can ship out to me in a few days, and then I can re-ship the split to others here in a couple days.

A consequence of having lots of power on hand. I melted some trailer brakes behind my diesel 2500 on cruise, never noticed it working harder. The smoke cloud was super impressive. Is it a lot of money? As Joe said, probably all the same. My only recent experience with them was a carb kit for the XR, it seemed identical to OE parts, and the entire overkill kit was cheaper than just a couple of the individual parts from Honda. If you're cracking open half the system, blowing it out with air then doing the super annoying full bleed is probably your best path to another 20 years of life.

Wait, I have a drinking game for the next NeXXt...we get a tire that is at the end of its life, make a few punctures, and let everyone have a go at fixing it.

I'm also thinking that these may not work well on an angled hole, if it's not irregularly shaped. After this thread, I am pretty sure that this is what I need to carry on the bike for all punctures.

I *am* for fucking sure on our current group buy. I didn't want to say I was, until I was, so much as gone wrong. Yes, all of these, like Hims/whatever, are scammers.

I used Loctite. Not anti-sieze.

Another on GERD. https://nutritionfacts.org/video/the-best-diet-for-treating-acid-reflux-gerd/