SwampNut

And wire cutters though you may never need to cut a wire. It's how I got a nail shard out of the XX tire, missing the head. No grip with anything else. Flush-cut is probably the most useful, certainly smallest space requirement.

This is once a day, do it as part of the morning pre-ride check, packing, etc. I previously mentioned the Silkolene version in another thread, same thing. Silkolene has a mini-bottle version to save space. Unlike oil and wax, this doesn't make a mess. It doesn't go anywhere. Caveat: I fortunately had very few rain rides Funny musing: I have never lubed the chain on my rental bikes. I've checked them at the end and they seemed fine. My longest rental was 1700 miles. Makes me think that maybe we are over-thinking this? The Pan America has the same chain, more horsepower, slightly heavier. Silkolene's Chain Lube Lineup Silkolene Pro Chain — fully synthetic racing chain lube, O-ring safe, sold as a 50ml aerosol concentrate. In a direct head-to-head test, it beat PJ1 Black Label on every measure: it lasted about 1,000 km per application (vs. PJ1's ~500 km), survived 1–2 rain events (vs. PJ1's one), had less fling-off, and the reviewer called it "really weatherproof" and the clear winner on price-per-volume.

I'll take threads that sound really dirty for $800 Alex. I've had two uses where mushrooms would never work, and the ropes did. One on the XX and one on a Jeep; both were slash-type problems where I used multiple ropes slathered in glue, then waiting a bit to dry. I carry two different styles of the rope kit now in the Rivian.

Today a trusted, but not yet tested Tirzepatide batch announcement hit one of my buying groups. 100mg vial, box of ten vials, $327.

Phenomenal insurance, discount coupons, corp discounts. Most people are seeing $700-800 though, your number is unusual.

Sometimes I feel like unblocking him would net some huge laughs.

I'd use anti-seize.

The disposal method is up to you, dump, drink....

I didn't know about this...

Testing a rectifier is pretty easy and conclusive, but regulators...complicated. Because a moto regulator is totally different from a car, I don't expect you can get it tested at any car store. I really can't think of any conclusive R/R test off the bike. I'd say put it on the bike temporarily, test voltage at the battery, and go from there. You can test the diode/rectifier part in resistance mode at the lowest setting, where you should get nearly zero in one direction across each pin pair and infinite in the other. If that fails, then you know it's bad. If it passes, then the rectifier part is good but the regulator is untested. I *think* from old memory that the yellows are the top three junctions here, and the black is bottom.

Their injector rings were also green, not black.

Nothing? Maybe I should have posted the dog ball unboxing part that precipitated this?