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Guest Edward Hewitt

XX motor turns over but no start

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Guest Edward Hewitt

I have a 2000XX and I came out of store Monday night and she wouldn't start. The pump sound and the motor tires to turn over but she wont start. To give you more info I wanted to turn her into a Streetfighter and took my fairings completely off and later found out the headlight is attached to front fairing. I put her back together and left turn signal now works when it wants to. I have all the fairings off again cause I was hoping I pinched a wire but same thing, pump sounds and she turns over but no start. Please help my baby

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Check the bank-angle sensor.

All I can think of at the moment.

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You say it tires to turn over.

Slow cranking, or as fast as before?

If slow, put a volt meter on the battery and read while cranking.  Mine drops to around 9.5 volts, with a 3 year old battery.

It might be worth a charge overnight.

 

I don’t like using jumper cables on a bike. Too much ummph, it there is something else wrong.

 

And I have to ask,  do you have gas.  Btdt. 😖

Edited by redxxrdr
.

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Additional thought.

Gasoline engines need three things to run.

Air, should be a given. Spark and fuel.  

How about trying a small spray of starter fluid in the ram air vent.  If it tries, the probable fuel problem. If not, probable electrical

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So many possibilities.  Try the starting fluid, easy way to narrow down if it's a spark or fuel issue.  What area do you live in?

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I bought a new battery, changed my rectifier and stator. Now the battery was low from just trying to figure it out. After changing these items I pop started her and road around the block a few times. I turned her off and about 5 minutes later I tried to start her and she started right up. I put her on a tender over night and when I came home from work today she wouldn't start. Voltage on battery was under 12volts and the turn over of the starter was very low. I appreciate any help gentlemen. I'm going out of my mind

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Could my battery have been damaged from running her on a bad stator and rectifier. I forgot to say that I changed the two because the relay from the rectifier to the stator was melted.stator looked awful too

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On 10/27/2018 at 1:53 AM, superhawk996 said:

So many possibilities.  Try the starting fluid, easy way to narrow down if it's a spark or fuel issue.  What area do you live in?

I live in Philadelphia 

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The good news is you seem to have it down to electrical.

Battery could have been damaged, or just bad.

easiest would be to pull it, and have your local FLAPS check it.

Or disconnect you negative pole on the battery, and charge overnight. It should charge to 13.5 vdc or so.

Disconnect your charger and let the battery sit for a couple hours.  It should stay around 12.5 vdc. If it drops below 12 vdc, bad battery.

if the battery holds up, connect it to the bike again, and monitor the voltage.  It shouldn’t drop.  If it does, I would go back to what you did last. r/R?  Disconnect the plug and see it the battery stops dropping, r/R.  If not, the troubleshooting continues.

 

Do you have any electrical farkles?  If so, I would disconnect them one at a time until the voltage stops dropping

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I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7.  12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem.  12 would indicate it's completely fucked.

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12 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

The good news is you seem to have it down to electrical.

Battery could have been damaged, or just bad.

easiest would be to pull it, and have your local FLAPS check it.

Or disconnect you negative pole on the battery, and charge overnight. It should charge to 13.5 vdc or so.

Disconnect your charger and let the battery sit for a couple hours.  It should stay around 12.5 vdc. If it drops below 12 vdc, bad battery.

if the battery holds up, connect it to the bike again, and monitor the voltage.  It shouldn’t drop.  If it does, I would go back to what you did last. r/R?  Disconnect the plug and see it the battery stops dropping, r/R.  If not, the troubleshooting continues.

 

Do you have any electrical farkles?  If so, I would disconnect them one at a time until the voltage stops dropping

I was having trouble with my left turn signal. I'll dig deeper. Cheers

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8 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7.  12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem.  12 would indicate it's completely fucked.

 

Just now, Edward Hewitt said:

I was having trouble with my left turn signal. I'll dig deeper. Cheers

 

8 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7.  12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem.  12 would indicate it's completely fucked.

Thanks. Yeah its reading 11.7 on new battery a day after being on the trickle. I always over think these things do all kinds of work and it winds up being the easy fix the whole time. At least my entire charging system is new now.

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If the battery was still connected to the bike you still need to verify that something on the bike isn't draining it.  If the battery was disconnected and self-discharged to 11.7 then it's definitely done.

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A new battery, huh? Did you bench charge it before installation? I don't mean with a trickle charger, but with a smart charger capable of at least 2.0A/hr. It typically takes 6-10 hours of bench charging at such low & slow rates to initially charge a 10AH battery (OE - YTZ12S/YUASA) to its full (and likely future ) capacity. If you didn't bench charge it first, remove the battery, check the cells electrolyte levels, and check the no-load charge level. Now let it sit for a few hours (if your garage is too cold, bring it inside and let it come to room temp). Now try bench charging with an appropriate charger. If you're using a smart charger you can let it charge overnight - it won't overcharge. Take a voltage reading after charging. As redxxrdr and superhawk996 said, a no-load reading of 12.7-13.5v usually means a happy battery. Per the shop manual, 12.3v or below indicates a battery beyond hope - replace it. Here are some helpful links . . .

 

  https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2064f870023420a2f7ac/battery

 

https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM3RH2S-YTX12-BS-Battery/dp/B000WK4CS4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266738&sr=1-2&keywords=2003+Honda+CBR1100XX+12v+battery+YTX12-BS

 

https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Automatic/dp/B07DD8BJ9V/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266804&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+battery+charger+smart           (not an endorsement - just cited as an example)

 

It pays to do some research and comparison shopping. Best of luck!

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8 hours ago, ironmike said:

A new battery, huh? Did you bench charge it before installation? I don't mean with a trickle charger, but with a smart charger capable of at least 2.0A/hr. It typically takes 6-10 hours of bench charging at such low & slow rates to initially charge a 10AH battery (OE - YTZ12S/YUASA) to its full (and likely future ) capacity. If you didn't bench charge it first, remove the battery, check the cells electrolyte levels, and check the no-load charge level. Now let it sit for a few hours (if your garage is too cold, bring it inside and let it come to room temp). Now try bench charging with an appropriate charger. If you're using a smart charger you can let it charge overnight - it won't overcharge. Take a voltage reading after charging. As redxxrdr and superhawk996 said, a no-load reading of 12.7-13.5v usually means a happy battery. Per the shop manual, 12.3v or below indicates a battery beyond hope - replace it. Here are some helpful links . . .

 

  https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2064f870023420a2f7ac/battery

 

https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM3RH2S-YTX12-BS-Battery/dp/B000WK4CS4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266738&sr=1-2&keywords=2003+Honda+CBR1100XX+12v+battery+YTX12-BS

 

https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Automatic/dp/B07DD8BJ9V/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266804&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+battery+charger+smart (not an endorsement - just cited as an example)

 

It pays to do some research and comparison shopping. Best of luck!

Really appreciate the tip. The Place I bought the battery from sold me a trickle charger and said the charge it over night and it would be fine. That's what I get for going against my better judgment. I thought it sounded funny

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Don't be too quick to jump on them.  "Trickle charger" is a loose term, it could be .01 amps, or several amps.  Regardless, almost any charger will be fine for an initial charge as long as it doesn't pump out too many amps or volts.  I've revived many car size batteries with a "trickle charger".  There are "ideal" charge rates and just as many exceptions to the rules.  The battery charger that's been most successful for me is only rated at 2 amps and it has resurrected batteries that my $3000 charger/analyzer said were fucked, it does so by breaking some of the 'rules' of charging batteries.  The mega dollar charger also breaks some of the 'rules' of charging.  I assume Midtronics knew what they were doing when they programmed it, $3k is a lot of money.

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1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said:

You can buy a lot of batteries for $3K.

I didn't, and wouldn't pay that much for it.  But it is cool as hell.  It's more than just a charger, it's also a battery and car system analyzer.  It'll put out mega amps for charging, I've seen over 70a displayed, don't know the max.  It can 'see' a bad rectifier or other alternator component just by clamping the leads to the car's battery cable terminals, pretty cool.  I bought a bunch of them for under $200 each from someone that didn't know how to sell them.  I sold them all but one, the ugliest one that would fetch the least $.  I sold them for $1k-$2k each, mostly on eBay.  I keep contemplating selling this last one, then once in a while it comes in handy so I keep it around.

 

http://www.midtronics.com/shop/products-1/battery-chargers-and-maintenance-products/diagnostic-chargers/gr-series/midtronics-gr8-series-diagnostic-battery-chargers

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And no, they weren't stolen, they were from Suzuki America.  When Suzuki cars went away all their dealer tools were auctioned off and these were Suzuki branded units.

 

Years later a buddy that does e-waste got a bunch of other Suzuki stuff that I helped him sell, some of which I sold here. 

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I`d also recommend disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and hooking up a meter in series to measure amperage drain. Or milliamps. DON'T turn the key on, just do it with the key off. That will tell you if you have a component or wire going to ground. If you do have a short, pull and replace 1 fuse at a time until the meter drops to zero. That will tell you which system to start looking at.

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