Runs lumpy when warm 2007 xx

[superhawk996]

On 11/16/2022 at 9:57 AM, ptxyz said:

does the temperature sensor also feed information to the digital guage?  in other words, there's only 1, correct?

 

apologies to the o.p. for piggybacking...  my bird's always gotten horrible fuel mileage unless i'm riding like a granny...

 

On 11/16/2022 at 11:53 AM, fizzy said:

Note: I think there are 2 temp sensors. One sends info to the ECU, this controls the fan.  Other does the gauge (Digital dash model).

One sensor for the gauge, one for the ECU, and a switch mounted in the radiator's cold side for the fan.

 

It's possible that the ECU can also turn the fan on.  I seem to recall a trick to forcing it on; something like hold the RPM above 2500 for 30 seconds in neutral...but maybe that was on a different bike.

[ptxyz]

stock gearing.  my apologies on the fpr update mistake.  i was referring to the higher pressure for the 01-03 bikes (which mine is).

 

i should also mention all 3 of my birds ('97 jetted & full yoshi, '00 stock & my current '03 with yoshi slip ons) have had similar fuel economy.

Edited November 18, 2022 by ptxyz

[blackhawkxx]

16 hours ago, ptxyz said:

stock gearing.  my apologies on the fpr update mistake.  i was referring to the higher pressure for the 01-03 bikes (which mine is).

 

i should also mention all 3 of my birds ('97 jetted & full yoshi, '00 stock & my current '03 with yoshi slip ons) have had similar fuel economy.

Sounds like a right wrist problem. 😃

[fizzy]

On 11/18/2022 at 6:59 PM, ptxyz said:

stock gearing.  my apologies on the fpr update mistake.  i was referring to the higher pressure for the 01-03 bikes (which mine is).

 

i should also mention all 3 of my birds ('97 jetted & full yoshi, '00 stock & my current '03 with yoshi slip ons) have had similar fuel economy.

If you can achieve 40mpg with "sedate" riding, then this is normal. If one of the sensors goes out of spec, I would expect a FI light ie an active code.  You can also check for hidden codes, there is an unused 2 pin connector in the tail aft of the ECU. Bridge it with a paperclip to pull up all codes and to clear the system. See manual for details. 

[CBR-RR-XX-CESS]

On 11/17/2022 at 9:16 PM, SwampNut said:

 

Carbs blow syphillitic donkeys.

 

 

Cal, take notice ^^^^^^^^^

[tomek]

12 hours ago, fizzy said:

If you can achieve 40mpg with "sedate" riding, then this is normal. If one of the sensors goes out of spec, I would expect a FI light ie an active code.  You can also check for hidden codes, there is an unused 2 pin connector in the tail aft of the ECU. Bridge it with a paperclip to pull up all codes and to clear the system. See manual for details. 

KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. Often overlooked item are vacuum lines. There are like 10 of them. Fuel pressure regulator on XX is a reference type,  pressure in fuel line is related to vacuum in intake tracks. Under part throttle pressure in fuel line is lowered, and consequently amount of fuel being injected is lowered as well. If there is a leak in vacuum lines bike will run unnecessary rich everywhere except WOT, and mpg will suffer. 

Those bikes are about 20 years old, if mpg blows first thing I would change right away, would not bother with checking, would be vacuum lines.

Just buy couple feet of correct ID lines, and replace them piece by piece. It is easier that way vs. removing everything at once, and trying to figure out what goes where later. 

 

[XXBirdSlapper]

On 11/18/2022 at 5:30 AM, blackhawkxx said:

FTFY

Haven't had to open my carbs in ten+ years. Riding sensibly I see around 40ish on the highway. Start running it hard and I've dropped into the high 20's. The bike fires readily, warms to choke off quickly, and has good response.

  It's been too long since they've been synced and it shows, but livable.