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Furbird

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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. It's CBX vs KZ though, so I don't know what that spark unit does. That's why I'm asking about the spark unit. If something fishy is going on inside that you could have a short. If I had better pictures I could tell better. But I don't see anything else burned up or any damage to the wiring leading to it (that gray cable looks pristine in that zoomed in photo.)
  2. If my guess is correct (internal failure of the coil back-feeding through the spark unit and frying the Dyna) then I would just parts cannon it. Because I'm not talking about 12 volts, I'm talking about however much voltage is being sent to the spark plug. I don't know what those coils are rated at but if it's back-feeding that voltage, I know I wouldn't want my hands anywhere near it. That's a lot of voltage instantaneously that hit that, not a "slow" burn, because the wiring is not burnt leading to that section. It found the weakest link and it found it FAST. I would ohm out all the related ignition wiring, internally inspect the spark unit or replace with known good, replace that coil (or all coils personally because if one is taking a dump and they're all the same age...), new Dyna, new plugs, new plug wires, verify install and timing, and ride out. This is a 40+ year old bike... unless it's a 100 point restoration and you're Jay Leno, it's time for that factory stuff to go bye-bye. My KZ1000 drag bike that I built in 1996 is STILL racing on the Dyna ignition, coils, and wires I put on it in 1996 with the current owner and it sat in my parents garage for almost 15 years.
  3. That looks like an internal failure in the coil to me. What does the inside of the spark unit look like? If it's just simple connections, then the voltage is carrying straight through (but there may be evidence of overheating.) It may look like that Dyna at this point though. That appears to be a ton of voltage causing snap-crackle-pop.
  4. I guess I'll just build a paint booth and downdraft the entire room. Can't breathe it in if it all gets sucked out the floor! 😁
  5. Might be Sparkomatic. I have yet to find an 8 track to Bluetooth adapter for my 71 Firebird.
  6. Wow, I would have thought considering the CFM on that thing it would have easily controlled that. Well, that's why I keep Monica Lewinsky on speed dial.
  7. https://www.garagejournal.com/craftsman-speed-spinner-ratchet/ DAMN!!! $250 with 24 people watching it!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/294487338671?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=294487338671&targetid=1263094005306&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9012987&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1263094005306&abcId=9300678&merchantid=113784835&gclid=CjwKCAjwmJeYBhAwEiwAXlg0AaV-UCorrnbdtvMST34TsJfbvvn_-Ebu1bpTL86FJbOFIfEPCfRmvBoCh3UQAvD_BwE
  8. When I said "squirrel cage" I meant I have the fan out of a central unit from my neighbors house, not some cheapy HF floor blower. I think if it provided AC to his 1500 square foot house it should probably take care of dust control for me. The largest tool I use is my Grizzly table saw. I bought the accessory kit for the HF unit and it has a plate I can modify to seal over the squirrel cage inlet. If nothing else it should make for one helluva fire. https://www.harborfreight.com/dust-collector-accessory-kit-93601.html
  9. Bear with me a second here because this may be a stretch, but did you have the car stereo on or have you had any issues with the radio? Reason I'm bringing this up is the factory wiring in that dash could have had two illumination wires... one is a steady and one is dimmer. If that steady wire found power, that would make the parking lights come on. This is assuming it is not the factory radio. If it IS the factory radio, you may have something funky going on inside it (I mean, it's only 40 years old.) And if it works off both house battery or run battery, then that could explain it being present no matter what battery you were on. In your panic you may have jostled the problem away with all the switch-flipping. Nearly a decade as a professional car audio installer and working on 12 volt shit since I was 15... I've seen strange things happen. The reality is I think it's just the switch is telling you it's on it's way out.
  10. I'm thinking that thing you linked and a squirrel cage vented outside my shop and I would never have a dust problem again. No need for a collector when I could vent to atmosphere and let the ACTUAL squirrels have to deal with what's left that the cyclone doesn't catch.
  11. Joe's going to be the only one with all of those parts I'm aware of on here. I used all of that to rebuild Furbird V2 from the previous stunter that owned it (plus a ton more). If he's OOS, you're going to be on ebay as I stated further up the thread. Now will be the time to do tapered head bearings as there is no way I would trust the ones in there since it bent the forks. I would tear the entire front end out and inspect everything VERY carefully as that was a significant hit with that being the case. Might want to go ahead and get the triple trees and all and not just the forks.
  12. Yours I believe is a spin (lol) on the Crafted Workshop design?
  13. Carlos' Youtube girlfriend built one, the one that got her own TV show with Tim the Tool Man Taylor and Al. I have 20' of counter with cabinets under it (when mom and dad remodeled the kitchen) and my miter saw is on that badass Home Depot wheel stand with the extendable arms so I am nowhere near running out of room. Currently have a bunch of car parts on about half the counter space as it is.
  14. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115463290702?hash=item1ae225ff4e:g:oosAAOSwOclizq4i&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoBFn14FU%2BJC6glIt%2FAmTDQj6sEfDGpOkfSZhK3lmebxXxnptTlPwxQot%2B5IC7bGlw8leQQKIYcGj6miOVwL3pdfE1O%2BLhToIw7nqtJiZ8roTi%2Fa4STWLqDvN2kQv6McQkQITjthQMKkQLlxmWWiddqnNR7dl1obXZRUzbDjf75%2B%2FeR0UI8QxjQ4xp7EUxaX30n27BxQSDt2ZXppDpwy4X7c%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8zGqI_VYA This shows to be a correct ECM for an 02. The guy has it incorrectly listed for a 97, which actually takes a CDI, not an ECU. These are NO LONGER AVAILABLE. https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e7fbf870021c54be2e15/wire-harness
  15. If that tank wasn't completely empty, the fuel pump is done. Don't buy the $500 one from Honda, get the little $40 one on ebay and clean out all the rust from the brillo pad while you have it apart. The part number for the fuel filter from Oreilly's is somewhere on here that I got them to match up so you don't have to buy the $100 one from Honda. Good luck on an ECU, definitely will have to find one on the boards because I haven't see one on ebay lately (which means there's a hundred since I just posted this... 🤣)
  16. Headlight, upper cowl, maybe the upper fairing stay (that'll be the tough one). I believe they FINALLY make the headlight aftermarket now. Think I saw one on ebay. Edit: Now they make both the headlight AND the upper fairing stay aftermarket.
  17. Torch was always "last option" at the dealership. We used a BG product called "InForce" that worked almost all of the time, basically PB Blaster on crack. A penetrating oil that worked rapidly, even on extremely hot surfaces. We also had a product called Rost Off Max Ice that was a mixture of a penetrating oil and a freeze spray, so if it was REALLY stubborn they would use that on the bolt. If they got the torch out, it was all bets were off. Most of our chemicals were so good we only used a tank of acetylene and oxygen every couple of years. Granted, we didn't see a lot of rusty vehicles but when we did that's because they were trade-ins, travelers, or full-time beach residents. Didn't bother me though because rust buckets would come in with a cat code and the tech would say... "Price everything from the manifold studs at the head to the exhaust tips."
  18. Photo #1 is why I don't live north of I-20 or within 10 miles of saltwater. All y'all Yankees need to MOVE.
  19. It doesn't ruin the cylinder wall, it hydrolocks the engine. As in, the ENTIRE engine fills up with the contents of the gas tank. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt and the stains on the ceiling when I had to pull the spark plugs and pump the fuel out. That was quite the geyser.
  20. As long as it's reinforced. If it's just straight concrete, umm... Please tell me it's not straight concrete.
  21. I can understand that needing to be addressed but at that angle that's going to be a mofo. That seems awfully small to necessitate a DR for, what about a weedeater-type machine with a saw or blade attachment? I know they make those and that seems to be a small enough area (pictures may not do it justice though?) As far as electric ZT, I am STRONGLY considering that myself, and that new Ryobi with the joystick and lithium batteries has DEFINITELY got my attention, but it was released at 1K over original pricing discussion and my John Deere is running just fine to not pay any stupid markup. It's way more mower than I need but they are still marketed to mow more area than they can actually cover. I have yet to see a review that states they mow the full area the manufacturers claim, regardless as to brand.
  22. Oscar, if you read it you would see that it is explaining what you have to do very clearly. If the floor is not of even thickness and reinforced then you have to build a large enough reinforced pad to support the lift and all the weight it is holding, plus it has to prevent tipping/shear and a lot of other factors. Here is a video showing what this guy had to do (it's shown in the first two minutes.) I've said it before and I'll say it again; buy once, cry once. You install this fucking thing wrong, you're dead. I had my entire building designed for lifts, not built a building then decided to put a lift in later. That's also why I had it permitted. They couldn't do jack shit until it was signed off on.
  23. "Acres" means zero turn but "bushhog" means you might want to consider a small tractor with a finish mower and a bushhog attachment. You need to better define just how much land are you talking about. Zero turns are astronomical right now.
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