Furbird

I'd use something much stronger than Seafoam, like BG 44k. I still think it's a valve spring or a seat after reading the forum posts about people having issues describing exactly what you're talking about and throwing the parts cannon at it with zero improvements. I know it's not what you want to hear but until you get compression/leakdown testing done to make sure it's not mechanical failure, I'm afraid you might be throwing good money after bad.

I tried to help him buy a 1500HD or a Denali (whatever it was with 4WS) but they kept getting sold before I could even get freed up to get out to look at one for him. What he NEEDS is an LBZ and just suck it up buttercup or my 4WD manual transfer case rubber floor truck in an 8.1 but they are ASTRONOMICAL now. You can't buy a southern one anymore because we delete *.* and they've got that whole annual inspection bullshit up there. Or, you know, FUCKING MOVE 😁 Anyway, back on topic, regardless as to how buried they are, you've got to do plugs at some point. I had to put plugs in my 96 Firebird and I had to jack the engine over to get those mofo's out. Spark plug wires require pulling the alternator off entirely and half the front of the engine loose. Some of the plugs you pull from the top, some from the bottom, and some from the wheel well. And a fat kid can't do it. I weigh 40 pounds less than the last time I tried it so if I ever do it again it should be a lot easier 🤣

I'm seeing several posts on there and YouTube videos that relate your issue (even after replacing all coil packs, wires, and plugs) to a broken valve spring. I'd start by checking compression like Iceprick said as that would eliminate you breaking out the parts cannon on something that's not going to solve the actual problem.

Umm... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1659335-2015-f250-6-2-persistant-misfire-2.html Needs a motor?

Thread resurrection. I remember the one and only Ranger I had. It had an ARE shell with gullwing aluminum toolboxes on either side. That's when I was doing on-site cell phone installs (back when they still sold 3 watt, permanent mount phones.) That fucker was always dragging ass. I ended up putting shackles on the rear axle to lift it back up to stock height. When I sold it (and kept all that phone stuff, which I sold on ebay for a small fortune for the people who refused to upgrade), that truck rode higher than a 1977 Trans Am with glass packs, Centerline Convo Pros, and a footprint gas pedal.

Oscar is right about the residency thing. Especially when that state is Vermont where the bike with no title is registered. No title, and your state requires it, I would stay FAR away. https://cartitles.com/how-to-use-the-vermont-title-loophole-to-get-a-vehicle-title/

My pressure spikes MASSIVELY at the doctor's office. Always has. Byproduct of a childhood doctor known as "Shoot'em up" where no matter what you were getting a shot, and you know as a kid you did NOT want to get a shot. I could care less now in my conscious mind but my subconscious mind tells my body to go into flight mode. 131/75 at home, last time it was 30 points higher on the top AND bottom at the doctor.

So... buy new clips or foam?

When in doubt, google it. I was pretty sure it was "it should have come with clips or foam" and I was right. But it depends on your counter and what type of cooktop. https://www.hunker.com/12483594/how-to-caulk-around-a-cooktop

If you google "fastbag cbr1100xx" it is, in fact, the first result. We're doomed.

Well... https://www.motortrend.com/news/hyundai-palisade-kia-telluride-sorento-sportage-nhtsa-fire-recall/ https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/consumer-alert-important-hyundai-and-kia-recalls-fire-risk Totally unrelated addition 6 days later 😁 ...

Tough to decipher IMO. But, IIRC, the coils fire off of ground, not power, so if the loom fix hasn't been done it could be that or an ECM issue.

That engine issue is WAY beyond 10-13. I can't tell you how many Hyundai/Kia I see with either junkyard engines or reman/replacement engines. I think it's like 07-10 GMC Acadia/Chevy Traverse 3.6VVT is THE WORST ENGINE OF ALL TIME in my book. I thought the Northstar was bad until that POS came out. Good Lord what a piece of crap. Worst combo again goes to GM. Engine/trans issues in Trailblazer/Envoy. I bet I've inspected 300+ of those for rebuilt titles and there MIGHT be 20 that have matching engine/trans combos. Hands down the worst in that category as either one (sometimes both) will be swapped.

Well, fuck. A truck being used as a truck. Novel thought. Maybe I should forward this to all the people around here with all their Roll Tide bullshit plastered all over it with carpeted beds and armor all tires and 22X14 rims that haven't climbed over anything higher than the curbs they hit trying to get into Home Depot.

Umm... what? 2WD or 4WD has nothing to do with HD designation.

My folks prepped well in advance. When they finally broke down and remodeled the house, the first thing they did was the bathrooms. Both got the full quartz treatment; one got a new tub, and the other got a walk-in shower with a fold down teak and stainless shower seat with a wand so you could take a shower standing or seated. Then I came in and added rails around the toilet and the wall across from the vanity so you'd have a rail the entire time you were in the bathroom. Also added a rail the entire length of the hallway. When they had an addition added, they put the exact same shower/seat combo in it. Both my grandparents used it until end of life and now we're walking that road with my dad. I didn't write the check but my mom and dad both would tell you IRRELEVANT.

Careful, Icarus, it may have been a parent slipping and that rod is a lot easier to fix than a hip.

Hang on. Helper springs. On a (basically) Ranger. This motherfucker has a gooseneck in the bed doesn't it? https://www.tiktok.com/@treachore/video/7056233433579965742?is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7056233433579965742

For clarification, that was the recommended repair by the Nissan master tech at the dealer I used to work at. You've got to be ASE master tech before you can get a Nissan master certification.

Don't know, I'm just telling you the master tech sent me a video of a Titan that had the exact same issue you are describing and all they did was switch out the ends with the correct ones. He said the lead ends cause a voltage drop on start-up, which is the same reason they had to replace that relay (the relay was "fluttering" causing hard start issues leading to early failure.) The lead ends have a much higher resistance than the Nissan end I would imagine.

Not fuel pump relay, ECM relay. Call the dealer, see if it has an open recall, it may be free!

Tech just got back with me and confirmed to verify battery terminal end condition and do NOT use lead-type battery ends; go get a replacement from the dealer (I think they were maybe 10 bucks when I was there and we kept them in stock; give them the VIN and the prefix is 24340 for the part code.) The negative battery end is non-replaceable, you have to replace the entire cable per the parts department most likely; however in this case we were using the Ford-type end and just replacing the end when I was there. It's a wrap-around end for lack of a better term. There could possibly be an open recall for an ECM relay, so call the dealer and give them the VIN and see what all is still open on the truck. If not, then you need to see if your IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module) is white in color. If so, you need to get a part number 284B7-CW29E which is the recall relay and replace it. This may solve your issue entirely as that is what fails. Google "ECM relay Frontier" and you should find the guide to where the IPDM is and where the relay is. If neither of these fix your issue, it's time to whip out bank and suck it up, buttercup. You're most likely looking at ECM failure according to the master tech. But he also said it's impossible to diagnose without more info. He sent me a video he took of a Titan with the exact same issue you are having and it had lead ends and Nissan battery ends fixed it.

No clue because of the parameters. Sent it to my friend who is still a master tech there. I was going to jump on the fuel pump bandwagon but that wouldn't be cold-related since it's all submerged on an 07. That's also an IPDM-controlled vehicle so I don't believe it has a separate relay. I'm thinking it's voltage; either battery (as in corrosion or crap connection since Nissan battery connectors are notorious for breaking being that old) or possibly a sign of impending coil failure (cold open). Reason I'm saying that is because another friend has an Armada that just started dropping coils around the same mileage (but reversed, hot open). Problem with the coil theory is the lack of SES light. You really need to get this thing on a scan tool to see what's going on and preferably one with live readout. The extended crank time screams fuel pump but the cold weather restriction is what throws the wrench in this.

Sounds like a familiar discussion, except of course when I bring it up I don't know what I'm talking about... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/101272-the-irs-is-a-5-mile-long-train/