Furbird

Well, fuck. A truck being used as a truck. Novel thought. Maybe I should forward this to all the people around here with all their Roll Tide bullshit plastered all over it with carpeted beds and armor all tires and 22X14 rims that haven't climbed over anything higher than the curbs they hit trying to get into Home Depot.

Umm... what? 2WD or 4WD has nothing to do with HD designation.

My folks prepped well in advance. When they finally broke down and remodeled the house, the first thing they did was the bathrooms. Both got the full quartz treatment; one got a new tub, and the other got a walk-in shower with a fold down teak and stainless shower seat with a wand so you could take a shower standing or seated. Then I came in and added rails around the toilet and the wall across from the vanity so you'd have a rail the entire time you were in the bathroom. Also added a rail the entire length of the hallway. When they had an addition added, they put the exact same shower/seat combo in it. Both my grandparents used it until end of life and now we're walking that road with my dad. I didn't write the check but my mom and dad both would tell you IRRELEVANT.

Careful, Icarus, it may have been a parent slipping and that rod is a lot easier to fix than a hip.

Hang on. Helper springs. On a (basically) Ranger. This motherfucker has a gooseneck in the bed doesn't it? https://www.tiktok.com/@treachore/video/7056233433579965742?is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7056233433579965742

For clarification, that was the recommended repair by the Nissan master tech at the dealer I used to work at. You've got to be ASE master tech before you can get a Nissan master certification.

Don't know, I'm just telling you the master tech sent me a video of a Titan that had the exact same issue you are describing and all they did was switch out the ends with the correct ones. He said the lead ends cause a voltage drop on start-up, which is the same reason they had to replace that relay (the relay was "fluttering" causing hard start issues leading to early failure.) The lead ends have a much higher resistance than the Nissan end I would imagine.

Not fuel pump relay, ECM relay. Call the dealer, see if it has an open recall, it may be free!

Tech just got back with me and confirmed to verify battery terminal end condition and do NOT use lead-type battery ends; go get a replacement from the dealer (I think they were maybe 10 bucks when I was there and we kept them in stock; give them the VIN and the prefix is 24340 for the part code.) The negative battery end is non-replaceable, you have to replace the entire cable per the parts department most likely; however in this case we were using the Ford-type end and just replacing the end when I was there. It's a wrap-around end for lack of a better term. There could possibly be an open recall for an ECM relay, so call the dealer and give them the VIN and see what all is still open on the truck. If not, then you need to see if your IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module) is white in color. If so, you need to get a part number 284B7-CW29E which is the recall relay and replace it. This may solve your issue entirely as that is what fails. Google "ECM relay Frontier" and you should find the guide to where the IPDM is and where the relay is. If neither of these fix your issue, it's time to whip out bank and suck it up, buttercup. You're most likely looking at ECM failure according to the master tech. But he also said it's impossible to diagnose without more info. He sent me a video he took of a Titan with the exact same issue you are having and it had lead ends and Nissan battery ends fixed it.

No clue because of the parameters. Sent it to my friend who is still a master tech there. I was going to jump on the fuel pump bandwagon but that wouldn't be cold-related since it's all submerged on an 07. That's also an IPDM-controlled vehicle so I don't believe it has a separate relay. I'm thinking it's voltage; either battery (as in corrosion or crap connection since Nissan battery connectors are notorious for breaking being that old) or possibly a sign of impending coil failure (cold open). Reason I'm saying that is because another friend has an Armada that just started dropping coils around the same mileage (but reversed, hot open). Problem with the coil theory is the lack of SES light. You really need to get this thing on a scan tool to see what's going on and preferably one with live readout. The extended crank time screams fuel pump but the cold weather restriction is what throws the wrench in this.

Sounds like a familiar discussion, except of course when I bring it up I don't know what I'm talking about... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/101272-the-irs-is-a-5-mile-long-train/

Considering this is in the garage, I'm assuming this is a serious question, otherwise it belongs elsewhere? Bike related, way back in my early drag racing days, I would put a bottle of alcohol in the tank with the fuel. We all did it, can't even remember why if I'm being honest. Last time I did it, I messed up and bought 50-ish% instead of the 93-ish% I normally did. Well, that was just enough to make the bike not run considering the other 50-ish% was WATER. Fortunately nothing hydrolocked but it certainly didn't run. Ended up having to drain the tank and come back the next week. Car related, I jumped a 1971 Super Beetle. It was NOT a Baja Beetle. I think the only reason it survived is that it landed on a soft dirt field and only dropped about four feet, plus it landed on all four wheels simultaneously. I did have to re-gap the points to make it home, though. That's the same car I put 4-15's in because a local stereo shop said "You can't put 4-15's in a Bug."

Mine failed high as well. Same bike, the drag bike. I posted on it somewhere on here, similar voltage as yours. That bike was a former stunt bike, and it showed it. The only thing left after I got done throwing things away was basically the frame and the engine. Even the swingarm bearings at the pivot were seized.

40 man hours at shop rate = totaled. 40 man hours at your time = helluva deal. That must be low miles and lived inside to be that clean. The connectors anyway.

I've only ever owned Dillon because all the guys I plate raced with had Dillon. Now the rifle stuff is where the fights start but when you're doing hundreds of pistol rounds at a time, it's Dillon. Ain't no snipers out there reloading on a progressive machine.

Good idea on the headlight if you're still running standard bulbs for sure. I did it because I (like a lot of us) are running additional accessories as well (upgraded horns, heated gear, etc.) and it's not like any of us leave anything alone anymore. But in the OP's case it was clear that somebody had been in there before so you might as well start with a known good connection instead of hoping all the factory stuff is there.

I don't think we were clear, or if you watched the video or not, but you actually have to unplug the block and check the inside to verify there is no corrosion on that ground and power test connectors. I'd be shocked on a 22 year old bike if it doesn't have some corrosion in it. Not doubting you, just saying historically speaking that is very rare. Also re-read the previous and it popped a 30 amp fuse which means you had a dead short in the ECM (or perhaps somewhere else in the wiring that also fried the ECM.) Over the years I have added an additional battery to engine and battery to frame ground separate from the factory connections. Just something I've always done as a carryover from my years in car audio installs because the factory stuff was always so lackluster. If somebody has been in there digging around they may have left something unbolted and you may have missed it. There's one ground right by the battery where the left tank bolt is (I believe that's right, off the top of my head) you might want to check and make sure that's there or not loose.

The real question is do you want to keep chasing this ghost or just make it so the bike will run? If all it is is this one thing, you might consider putting up the proton pack and parking Ecto 1 and just wiring up the fuel pump directly to bypass this Ghostbusters mission.

The photos got lost in the boards transitions over the years, so maybe somebody has one somewhere. Here's a video I found real quick where somebody had already tried to do a quick repair and it didn't work. There's also a positive connector that's green in color on the inside frame rail near the throttle bodies. Believe I and the guy with the quad bird are the only two people on here that have had that one go bad.

00's have the same plug as the 99's have, which is the test plug under the battery. Known issue. Should be electrical taped to the main wiring harness, known for getting water intrusion and corroding the wiring. One of my bikes got both the power AND ground test plugs to the point I had to replace entire sections of wiring from end-to-end.

Holy shit, that guy was not fucking around with that Dillon, it's got damn near everything you could get!

The curing answer will be dependent on the product you buy. You also might have to float a topcoat over what you have now with some of these fancy ones. I wouldn't even consider it until I had the building up and dried-in if I were you. You also have the weather factor and will need something resistant to hot-tire pickup. Some of the cheap shit will peel right off. That's why I just said eff it and left mine raw. It's a shop, not a museum.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334545390793?hash=item4de4758cc9:g:tP8AAOSw-IljDB0H&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFIW0ppbXo7zs%2BVRlhE6e6IFug5HR6Mb0c9vja7zBbDuA3zMdZYKYUQJbhptcVG7vAWwuKDlZ2JfRQE3ztMBFT1Fyz%2FF0EXjbwjOMsVf7gWyGsI4jntYWFamoDE%2F%2FPeRba4s4yEs%2BjwUjYo%2F4WWsIYWTPyBCyRR3wbQNCGOIBNHtmKOuGEeJxBIGRioqux4dCrq0g5g3QDKjSy7N%2FXZ2GRA%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Cch7vdYA

This is ignition, NOT stator. I think Mike only read the first couple of lines and replied (where you incorrectly typed "stator").