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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. I looked at the link and saw that image. But all that money for something you can replace for half the price and it just bolts in for a (industry term) "shitbox" just seems like a lot of work for no gain.
  2. The problem is if it has "firm" suspension or "normal" suspension. If it's firm, good luck. There's like one in the US. Almost all of them have normal. Guess the only way to know is the dealer, which means unless it's some super rare package it's going to have normal. Something that old it's going to be no longer available from the dealer, most likely nobody aftermarket is going to have it, and most shops aren't going to chase one down from a junk yard or it's not going to be cost effective. It's also not cost effective to fix this, because for $40 you might as well just go buy a used one. That place in New Mexico (Hollander parts link) will sell you one for 45 and ship it for 40 and even that isn't worth fixing the broken one nor driving any significant distance chasing one down.
  3. https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/1993/mazda/protege/suspension-steering/524-stabilizer-bar https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi
  4. Well, I suggest you start hunting. Bought mine off a guy about my age who said "call me". I met him first thing in the morning. He plugged it in to his boat right next to the new one he replaced it with to prove it worked. There are still real people on there with real products, pretty easy to spot when they hand out numbers and can answer simple questions and you don't ask stupid ones. Also helps when you've done your research (which is why I was mentioning all the stuff I said, because a scammer won't know any of that stuff but a REAL seller who REALLY used it will or will go check.)
  5. So I bought a MinnKota Riptide 74lb 24v 48" shaft saltwater (because I wanted white), hand steer, bow mount, latch & door (the mount that you are calling "scissor") for $200 on Marketplace when I bought my boat a couple years ago because I didn't want to pay this: https://www.amazon.com/Minn-Kota-Saltwater-Bow-Mount-Trolling/dp/B001M5TTF4/ref=sr_1_5?c=ts&keywords=Trolling+Boat+Motors&qid=1699483276&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7046332011&s=boating-water-sports&sr=1-5&ts_id=3397951
  6. Need to specify saltwater or freshwater (white or black) and also what length shaft you need that way you can really cover all the racist and sexual stereotypes that Carlos forgot to include. Jokes aside, saltwater/freshwater and shaft length are actual things you need to specify because if you put a freshwater short shaft trolling motor on a center console white fiberglass boat not only is it going to look stupid it may not touch the water. You also don't need an 96" shaft saltwater trolling motor on a 14' black Triton cause that mofo will run deeper than the 300 Merc you got hanging off the back with a 200 shot of nitrous to beat everybody to the fishing hole.
  7. I don't know how Ford is set up, but Nissan has levels. For instance, you have to be certified to be able to do a PDI (pre-delivery inspection) so if you haven't been factory trained on it, you can't be flagged under your employee number as the tech who did the work, which is what I meant by that. That doesn't mean you weren't the one who actually did it, or got paid for it, just it can't be on the actual repair order submitted to Nissan or they won't pay the ticket. Same thing with a warranty ticket, recall, etc. So if you haven't had the classes for whatever it is, you can't flag that. I'm sure other manufacturers work the same way. What they would do is flag two techs and do a split ticket, one who was certified and one who wasn't, that way there was no issues. I mean it was so ridiculous you couldn't even warranty out a fucking battery if you hadn't taken the class. Granted this was a decade ago so I hope it's not like that now, but then again... That's why every shop has to have a Master Tech. We had two. But even that isn't enough, because even Masters may not be manufacturer approved for everything. Like we only had one who was GTR, Leaf, and hybrid certified. So, again, all tickets had to be flagged to him. And you have to have a Master on staff certified in all that, plus a salesman certified in all that, and all the specific equipment, or you can't even sell the damn car! That's why we didn't have the commercial trucks, because we didn't have all that. Now that part I know is still valid because I still talk to the one who didn't go get the GTR certs and he still won't because he doesn't want to deal with those PITAs.
  8. Similar situation happened on the state vehicle when I reviewed the camera footage. They claimed they did the seat recall on the passenger seat but they never even touched it. All they did was claim it on the paperwork. I literally have it on tape. They had to fix the roof racks though because they were falling off (known issue). One of my guys still in the industry says the problem is most "techs" aren't approved to do warranty work, so they just have a bunch of monkeys doing the easy shit that don't actually know what they are doing while the only tech who is trained gets flagged for the hours (on paper) and may not ever actually see or touch the vehicle. This leaves all the actual hard shit up to the trained tech to deal with, which means when they are working they are WORKING while everybody else is riding the gravy train. One dealer near here got caught flagging a master tech's employee number who had quit over a year prior because they didn't have anybody warranty approved and were fined nearly a half million dollars. So to hear you had a "ain't my car, ship-it" is no shocker.
  9. I just had a newer Toyota 4Runner lock on me with the door open and the key was sitting on the seat today. But keep on arguing about how I don't know what I'm talking about, Carlos.
  10. Scenario... mother exits vehicle. Walks around car to get child from passenger rear. Vehicle passively locks. Keys, phone, and kid are inside car. In Southeast or Arizona summertime. Safety glass (it's 2023...) Satan giggles at your ignorance. Passive locks are, in fact, the devil.
  11. The most aggravating thing about newer vehicles that I run across are passive locks. If you don't know, that means cars that lock by themselves. And some of these things will do it with the key still in them, even the (lol) "intelligent" key ones, especially if the battery gets weak. They really didn't think that through. And then there's my sister-in-law who drove 300 miles leaving her intelligent key on the kitchen counter after starting her SUV, then my brother had to drive up there to bring her the key so she could get back. She'll never live that one down. You'd think they'd put the vehicle in limp mode with a big ass "key not present, operations limited, check your pockets idiot" warning after a few hundred feet or so.
  12. It probably has a painted plastic cover on the driver door handle that you have to pop off to reveal the key hole if you don't see it. They've been doing that for several years. Of course, that means it will either break upon removal, you'll scratch it with your knife/screwdriver/method of prying it off the car, it goes flying and scratches it up when it hits the ground, or it will fall in the drain in the Walmart parking lot.
  13. We don't worry about that where we're going. Most of my fuel evaporates out of my stuff before it actually burns. So my MPG is probably negative in a couple of vehicles at this point 🤣
  14. I immediately leaned towards no because of that stamped steel deck, but because you are keeping it in the garage that does make a massive difference in longevity. My John Deere was bought from the original owner, has been kept inside it's entire life, and still has rust in the stamped steel deck. Not from me owning it as I use a blower or a shop vac to clean it off, but just from wear and because they are inferior compared to the more modern ones built with thicker metal and fabricated (read: more expensive).
  15. I kinda figured Zero was in a situation like me, but mine is even less work. I have zero plants, hedges, bushes, flowers, anything. If it's in the yard, it gets mowed over. Plants, weeds, cats, kids, Jehovah's Witnesses, EVERYTHING. If I had my way the entire yard would be Astroturf and 10 fucking Roombas running 24/7 but we have too much rain 🤣 Meanwhile Mom and Dad over there aiming for a picture in Southern Living. I honestly wonder how many people come by checking on dad just to ask "Hey, what kind of flowers are those you put out there this year?"
  16. No offense, Dave, but your standard of living vs mine and Zero's is in two completely different worlds. I can quite literally buy a used riding lawnmower for $300 and it will last 20 years with blades/belts/oil changes because I can keep it inside. I understand that's not how you live, and that's OK. To your question, Zero, the next mower I buy will be a ZTR and it will be electric because I have converted everything else in yard tools to electric. I have yet to have to replace a battery, even on the push mower which I believe is on year 7. I agree with you on John Deere and their proprietary BS being their downfall, especially when it comes to farm equipment, but was unaware of any of that bleeding into lawn tractors. Regardless, my decisions are based on ethanol content, limited availability of "pure gas", and carb degradation due to this which are all known and ongoing issues. With the constant push to eliminate fossil fuels, it will only continue to be a persistent and ever-growing problem. Also, electric mowers are direct drive with no belts, no oil, and virtually no maintenance, and since I have plenty of room to keep it out of the weather and away from animals causing destruction, the only thing I have to keep safe are the batteries. My mom just killed her first two batteries which were for her weed eater, which she uses every 3 days, and they've lasted 10 years because they stay inside the house (we do yard work 9-10 months out of the year down here and she keeps the yard IMPECCABLE.) That is her break time now taking care of dad, and that is what they did as their outside time after they retired.
  17. My setup is a 4X8 open with tie downs welded to the outside rails. Think that U-haul setup but on the floor level and back about 8 inches. In the enclosed, it's the same thing but with fold-downs and a chock. One is a slide in for the bird, the other is a bolt-down for the Victory (because it's longer, so it has to sit farther forward so the door doesn't hit it.) My old 3 rail (which I quit running after I retired the FIRST drag bike) was the last time I tied down a rear tire. Now I run 4 straps to the front. Two pulling downwards and slightly forward on a Canyon Dancer (or directly on the bars in the case of the Victory since the Canyon Dancer doesn't fit it) and two pulling forward from the rear keeping it in the chock which also doubles as centering the rear wheel.
  18. I can't believe I'm about to type this, but thank you for quoting Tomek. He is right. BMW is wrong. I have never see something so fucked up. Like a monkey fucking a football. A left handed football bat. What the actual. I have towed THOUSANDS of miles and have NEVER seen anything looks like that shit. I have straps that are 10 years old that haven't worn out. OMG.
  19. I'm 5'11" and as I stated previously it's easier to fall in and out of that car than to attempt to enter and exit it. But I have arthritic knees. The worst part is not the ingress/egress, it's the driving, as rear visibility is laughable and that front end is like swinging an aircraft carrier around because of the bulges in the fenders and the length of the nose is a lot farther than you realize. The last one I touched for inspection I had to do an assigned VIN on for the state because the original VIN was rusting off of the windshield frame. Those cars do have steel in them and they will rust. Badly. Just like every other GM of that vintage if left to the elements. When I tried to get the frame stamp I honestly thought it had come from a salt state. But the fact was it had just been left outside and somebody thought they were going to restore it. Be very wary as blackhawk says. The words "no major rust" is always a red flag in my book.
  20. That's the reason I was asking. It's 13.68 a sheet down here. Granted, I don't know the R value, or how many sheets you are talking about; but at $80 bucks a pail, plus your time, plus the plastic, plus the coverage area, the cost effectiveness versus time factor has to be weighed as well. I'm no spring chicken and I know you got a couple on me and sometimes you just got to suck it up buttercup. https://www.lowes.com/pd/R-2-9-0-75-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Faced-Polystyrene-For-Use-In-Garage-Doors-Board-Insulation/3014189
  21. I think Oscar forgot to attach his links... been there. So in layman's terms you're talking about putting a sheet of plastic on foam board (rigid insulation). Do they not already offer that? Mine came with foil on one side, which is the stuff I used to make the "box" that my ladder sits in to stop the heat from my attic to get sucked in to my hallway via the central AC. That basically sounds like what you are looking for, as that would stop vapor, reflect heat, and is a foam board all in one. I got it from Lowe's or Home Depot.
  22. Interesting. All of my hot water valves are on one main wet-wall with the exception of the washing machine. Mom and dad have the exact opposite problem as their water heater was in the utility room right next to the washing machine; on the other end of the house from the bathrooms. Of course when they added on their new bathroom is right there too so they're not worried about this problem anymore. This could have come in handy 40 years ago when we had to wait 2 minutes for hot water when we came in to wash our hands for dinner!
  23. Anytime you want to explain how an SPDT relay will backfeed into this system and cause an issue, I'm all ears. Because all it's doing is taking that that signal wire and using it to "tell" the relay to engage and flip it on and off. What's wired on one side of that relay has fuck-all to do with what's on the other side. And if you have relays without a diode separating 85 and 86 then you just add it to prevent backfeed on that side. So I don't see your problem.
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