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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. Interesting. Car-part shows that an 87 also fits that car, and a place in California has two on the shelf for turbo locking diff for $125 but no shipping. There's only 4 in the country and they all show 87-91 fitment.
  2. You never gave a year so I can't try to find you one. You also didn't say it was an upgrade for a weaker version in another vehicle. The 350z guys figured out the 370z rear axles and wheel bearings are significantly beefier than the 350z version, and are direct bolt in, so now the parts have been on intergalactic backorder for months. Nissan can't make the parts fast enough to keep up with demand. One aftermarket supplier has 100 sets on order and they're all sold. Clearly "bulletproof" is an overstatement since it broke. You sure it's not a Ford?
  3. That tells you it's prone to failure. I've had body shops buy an entire front clip for a Focus and the junkyard give them the motor and trans for free because they don't break and it's not worth unbolting it before they cut the front end off. On the flip side, a non-broken 3.7 in a Traverse is over 2 grand for just the engine because they break daily.
  4. You're probably right, but if it's eating bearings you need to replace them all. It's not rocket surgery if you have the right tools, but people think you have to have voodoo, Tinkerbell, and say bibbidi-bobbidi-boo while rolling your tongue and standing on your head to set them up correctly. Might be better off buying an entire unit from a scrap yard or new if you have that DaveK bank account. Side note: I would never run a car at 100mph with the wheels off the ground unless it was on a lift.
  5. That is fluke of all flukes. I ran a 12/49 combo with a slick on the dragbird and never broke a chain. Definitely a factory flaw.
  6. Furbird

    Hail dents

    It has to do with the branding and the way the law is written. Alabama doesn't do safety inspections (annual inspections, insert your state's gestapo-level taxation term here). When a vehicle has been determined to be totaled and a salvage title is issued, the only way to get a rebuilt title is to return the vehicle to the condition that existed prior to the salvage event. Hail means the hail damage was the reason for salvage, so all the hail damage has to be repaired. With Michael they invented this new term called storm damage, because they were a combination of water and flying debris, so we had vehicles that weren't dented, but the glass and body panels looked like somebody had drug shingles across them at 150mph (because that is basically what happened) so we were inspecting them as a hail vehicle. Some people got lucky and could buff everything out and touchup paint, others were all-over paint jobs. You also have a junk car, which can be branded as certificate of destruction/crush/junk/parts only/bill of sale only/etc. and those can never be title in Alabama. I've seen cars that were run and drive that needed a fender and a headlight, yet had certificates of destruction so they are parts cars. You can sell a salvage title car to anybody, but you have to disclose separately that the vehicle has a salvage/rebuilt branded title as part of it. However, the salvage title itself will remain in the name printed on the front until it is either rebuilt or crushed. Clean title has no such disclosure. So if you own a car and do not have full coverage, you never have to worry about a salvage brand. It's only when an insurance company has paid a total loss settlement on a vehicle that it gets branded. Believe me, I get the question a lot as people drive some pure junk on the roads here, but they are clean title. That is at the discretion of the patrol officers to determine roadworthiness of a vehicle and if it is outside of DOT and NHTSA compliance, which is extremely rare and would require just an absolute dangerous level of hazard for them to down a vehicle for that. That is usually only used when somebody is driving without a wheel or tire, parts of the car are dragging on the ground, parts are falling off causing a hazard to other motorists (aka "Harley Davidson"), etc.
  7. Furbird

    Hail dents

    You need to check the salvage laws in your state. What requirements it takes to bid and purchase the vehicle, how the titles are branded, whether you can have them inspected as an individual or have to have a license, what the state requirements are to pass inspection, etc. As one of the salvage inspectors in Alabama, I can tell you that here an individual cannot buy a car from the auction with a salvage title, they cannot have it inspected if purchased from an auction outside of Alabama (as it has to go through a licensed rebuilder), and on a hail car ALL hail damage has to be repaired. Of all the hail cars ever submitted to me, only two passed. One was a cop, and one was a rebuilder who said "never again."
  8. No idea who that is but I like it. I'm always a fan of anybody who paints realism, as in identifiable art, not "monkey throws paint on a wall and it's worth 1 billion dollars." I'm also a fan of multiple mediums instead of just one. Impressive work. I have a Salvador Dali print in the entryway of my house. That's about as close as I'll ever get to owning the real thing.
  9. Assuming these are EFI tanks? Also, what all is included, or are they just the tank itself?
  10. Interesting. I was told that you use the same ground as the house for your outbuildings. My garage and my shop are both wired to the house ground.
  11. It's probably the consistently high reading temp on the gauge. Down here in the deep south it has gotten into the red on multiple occasions when coming back in from a pass at the dragstrip. You just can't dissipate all the heat you're generating in 1/8th of a mile at nearly WOT under full acceleration stress. I always had two high velocity fans in the pits and let the bike sit slightly off idle until temps cooled off. It never hurt anything but it is damn sure unnerving to say the least. You sit in traffic down here and it regularly dances on the high end of the gauge like it's going to touch red but never does. Considering pavement temps reach 140 or so down here and you're surrounded by cars pumping out heat it shouldn't surprise me but I still to this day think that can't be good to run that hot.
  12. This one? https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html?_br_psugg_q=extractor
  13. I've done the slapper-recommended "weld on another nut" thing and it works. We had to pull the exhaust off of my friends 200k mile Armada and the exhaust tube nuts were rusted badly. Welded the shit out of a replacement nut and out they came. I've also heard that instead of using water to use WD40 and it basically hardens the bolt as it cools plus draws in lubricant for a win-win. That must be some hella loctite or they are extremely corroded because that type of work has never been done. Don't forget, nothing says loctite like cross-thread might also be an issue if somebody has been working on it before you.
  14. I haven't installed a vacuum cruise control since 1997 because even back then the world was going with full electric cruises. I don't even know if you can pull enough vacuum on a bird to do a vacuum cruise?!?
  15. I didn't say it was right, I said that's the only way I've seen it done. The irony that Danny Lipford is from here is not lost on me either. IMO it's the tradeoff of cutting a hole in your roof to vent a bathroom in one of the rainiest cities in the US that is also in a hurricane-prone area with multiple months of 90+ percent humidity, versus venting it into the attic that should have enough cross-flow ventilation or forced ventilation to dissipate or remove said bath fan exhaust humidity before it becomes a problem.
  16. I've never seen a bathroom fan that vents to anything but the attic. Range hoods vent externally (or through a filter/trap system and recirculate inside) but not bathroom fans.
  17. OK, now we're getting somewhere. I'm in Mobile, where it's 90% humidity a lot of the time, and I do not have this issue. It sounds to me like you have a lot of air leaks in the house that is drafting in humid outside air and the system is not able to keep the humidity levels down. I would check all of the windows and doors to see if you have air coming through there first, which is easily fixed with new seals on the door jambs or caulking the windows. I would also check the AC ducting in the attic to make sure you don't have a gap that is blowing cold air into the attic and also allowing hot, humid air into the ducts when the system is off. When that cold air starts blowing again, that's going to condensate in the duct and blow it towards the vent. You also need to check your return on the central AC. On my house, the return was not sealed to the living space, and was drawing hot attic air from between the studs and through the AC system (not only is that unfiltered air, it's also 100+ degrees and the system has to work extremely hard to cool it.) That is also drawing in outside humid air instead of recycling the lower humidity air in the house already. Another thing to check is the seal between the central unit and the return itself. In my house, it's a closet with the return at the bottom. The AC guy showed me by closing the door and the AC system sucked the door in and slammed it shut. Your door should not move at all. If it is sucking it closed, that's also bypassing the filter and can draw air from any gaps between the top of the unit and the attic when the door is shut.
  18. When in the bathroom, fan comes on. Shower or shit, fan should be on. I'm sure Dave could find out, but this is probably why hotels have all of that on a single switch. My mom and dad have a heated fan in the back bathroom, came with the house. Problem is you can't run that fan without the heat, it was wired all together. So nobody ever crapped in that bathroom unless it was an emergency. Clearly whoever did that had no clue what they were doing because it popped the breaker within a few minutes. But if you were freezing, you could go stand in that bathroom and flip the heat on and it would be a sauna before the breaker popped.
  19. If you weren't in the people's republic, I'm sure Joe or I would have already marked this as sold.
  20. Furbird

    Oil additive ?

    And of course the cement engine...
  21. Furbird

    Oil additive ?

    Duralube is what I believe you were referring to.
  22. Holy... that's confusing. OK, so if I'm reading this right, you have condensation on your vents coming from your central AC vents showing up in your bathrooms. You believe that the combination bathroom vent fan/heater units are the source of your issue. Most vent fans have a flapper door on them that prevents attic air from backflowing into the bathroom. If those valves have failed or have been stuck open by insulation, that can cause your issue. However, I would be more apt to believe that your vent fans are not being used when someone showers to ventilate that humid air out so it just stays in the bathroom and dissipates throughout the adjoining rooms eventually. But since the humidity is highest in the bathroom, that's where it condensates. So your issue is probably not with the vent fan, but with the user. I'm saying all of that because I shower in the front bathroom and the vent fan does not work there. That also happens to be right next to the central AC unit. So I have seen this firsthand. But I have an ulterior motive. Vent fan doesn't work, and that's the guest bathroom. You can crap in your own toilet, not mine.
  23. If the wire is corroded, you need to do two things. First of all, figure out why it's corroding. Secondly, you have to cut past all that corrosion and get to clean wire before you put a new connector on. On Furbird, I had to replace entire runs of wire because it was so corroded from the test connector. I have no idea how it even ran as bad as some of those wires were. If you have corrosion so bad it's causing heat that far back in the wire, I'd want to know why, otherwise you'll keep fighting a problem that will never go away.
  24. 140lb rider? You mean on the back or the operator, because I'm pretty sure the average weight around here is double that!
  25. KBB shows nearly identical numbers for trade in and private party. I don't think I've ever seen that happen. Unicorn cars can pull that off I guess.
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