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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. Torch was always "last option" at the dealership. We used a BG product called "InForce" that worked almost all of the time, basically PB Blaster on crack. A penetrating oil that worked rapidly, even on extremely hot surfaces. We also had a product called Rost Off Max Ice that was a mixture of a penetrating oil and a freeze spray, so if it was REALLY stubborn they would use that on the bolt. If they got the torch out, it was all bets were off. Most of our chemicals were so good we only used a tank of acetylene and oxygen every couple of years. Granted, we didn't see a lot of rusty vehicles but when we did that's because they were trade-ins, travelers, or full-time beach residents. Didn't bother me though because rust buckets would come in with a cat code and the tech would say... "Price everything from the manifold studs at the head to the exhaust tips."
  2. Photo #1 is why I don't live north of I-20 or within 10 miles of saltwater. All y'all Yankees need to MOVE.
  3. It doesn't ruin the cylinder wall, it hydrolocks the engine. As in, the ENTIRE engine fills up with the contents of the gas tank. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt and the stains on the ceiling when I had to pull the spark plugs and pump the fuel out. That was quite the geyser.
  4. As long as it's reinforced. If it's just straight concrete, umm... Please tell me it's not straight concrete.
  5. I can understand that needing to be addressed but at that angle that's going to be a mofo. That seems awfully small to necessitate a DR for, what about a weedeater-type machine with a saw or blade attachment? I know they make those and that seems to be a small enough area (pictures may not do it justice though?) As far as electric ZT, I am STRONGLY considering that myself, and that new Ryobi with the joystick and lithium batteries has DEFINITELY got my attention, but it was released at 1K over original pricing discussion and my John Deere is running just fine to not pay any stupid markup. It's way more mower than I need but they are still marketed to mow more area than they can actually cover. I have yet to see a review that states they mow the full area the manufacturers claim, regardless as to brand.
  6. Oscar, if you read it you would see that it is explaining what you have to do very clearly. If the floor is not of even thickness and reinforced then you have to build a large enough reinforced pad to support the lift and all the weight it is holding, plus it has to prevent tipping/shear and a lot of other factors. Here is a video showing what this guy had to do (it's shown in the first two minutes.) I've said it before and I'll say it again; buy once, cry once. You install this fucking thing wrong, you're dead. I had my entire building designed for lifts, not built a building then decided to put a lift in later. That's also why I had it permitted. They couldn't do jack shit until it was signed off on.
  7. "Acres" means zero turn but "bushhog" means you might want to consider a small tractor with a finish mower and a bushhog attachment. You need to better define just how much land are you talking about. Zero turns are astronomical right now.
  8. Since he's building a shop from the ground up, the entire slab only needs to be 4.25+. If you were cutting into the existing floor to pour a pad, that's when it has to be super deep. The load is spread across a lot more floor than your think. My floor was 4.5+ because any lift installer checks the slab before they install it, otherwise they won't install it due to the liability. https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/concrete-floor-requirements/
  9. The problem with a 4 post is that they are just SO damn big. They take up a tremendous amount of room and are always in the way. They also cost far more than an equivalent two post and when you factor in two trolley jacks (especially air jacks) you are looking at triple the cost for a two post. We had two at the dealership; one was the alignment rack (duh) and the other one was our oil change rack. They did that to make it faster to do oil changes and if they upsold a rotate and balance they wouldn't have to pull it off and rack it on a two post. The problem was those handy-dandy drive on ramps were ALWAYS in the way. I can't tell you how many people hit their head on those things, because everybody was used to a two post. It also made it extremely difficult to actually get the wheels on the car; because you can't "walk" the wheel up to the lugs on a 4 post, you have to fight it back on the hub. I certainly wouldn't want to work on one daily. Eventually they moved it to detail and it became our undercoating rack. I'd like to have one now, but it would only be for vertical parking, certainly not to work on cars. Those style don't have near the footprint (or the capacity) of the commercial monsters plus you can get some with wheels so they can be moved when you still need to use that space for something else.
  10. Forward DP10A****, overhead bar, asymmetrical. I don't know the science behind the overhead bar/structural rigidity argument but it is my understanding that the towers weigh less vs a bottom bar so the overhead bar is designed to connect the towers as part of the structure. The overhead bar also carries the cables and the hoses that connect both sides together to allow them to work in unison for both lift/lower and the locking mechanism, so you can't just not install it. If I can find the installation manual I'll see what it says. Like you, I didn't want anything on the floor so an overhead bar was the way to go. Plus it has the stop switch to prevent anything from hitting it and the only thing that has tripped it was the roof rack on the Astro so now I know where to stop that vehicle before it gets that high (it's about one click before max height anyway, no big loss.) Symmetrical vs asymmetrical, almost everybody uses an asymmetrical lift unless they are exclusively lifting LWB fullsize trucks. Reason is it allows you to offset the vehicle to the rear so you can get out of it. This is why I ALWAYS tell everybody to get the widest drive-thru lift you can find (and why I went with the Forward) and why almost everybody goes with asymmetrical. There's nothing that's been in my shop that you can't open the door on. As I've said before, my 2500HD has tow mirrors and I don't even have to fold them in. The more stages on the arms, the more adjustment you have, and the more vehicles they fit. They also sit lower to the ground if you're not a big fan of lifting on pinch welds (like me) so you can swing under the vehicle to get to structure. My Forward is a previous generation than what's out there now, so it came with the extended height, truck adapters, etc. which are all add-ons now. It's made by Rotary. If you have a problem with a dirty shop, get over it, ain't nobody got time for that. This is a broom surface concrete finish, ain't no damn museum. That oil spot is courtesy of John Deere circa 3 hours ago.
  11. Well there goes the midget hookers on the 4 foot pole, Carlos... 🤣
  12. Didn't you JUST have one of these blow up on you? I have never, repeat, NEVER inspected a rebuilt 6.4 powered ANYTHING. They don't rebuild these. For a reason. If the engine runs, they sell it while it still does. If it doesn't, they sell what's left of the body to keep other trucks on the road. Here's Diesel World and Motor Trend talking about all of the issues with pictures of cracked pistons, exhaust failures, diluted oil (like Oscar just said), blocks cracking, and the list goes on and on. And this was supposed to be the savior from the HORRIFIC 6.nuke! https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diesel-technology/6-4l-failures/ https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/top-5-ford-powerstroke-diesel-engine-problems/
  13. Exactly. I know probably 50 people that have had (keyword) 6.0 diesel Fords and not a single one of those people has not had to have the cab pulled off to have something done. Running a tuner or totally stock, SOMETHING always broke that required the cab pulled. One was just valve cover gaskets (but it became one of those "well while you're there..." deals). Just like some of the best diesel people in the world will tell you if you buy a used 6.0 get it CHEAP because it WILL HAVE TO BE BULLETPROOFED. I don't think I've ever looked at Cummins Dodge with a 4 speed auto that had the original trans. They were all either remans, swapped from a wrecked truck, or aftermarket.
  14. Pre-Duramax. That includes the engine used in the Humvee. Difference is GM learned their lesson by 2001 or so and tagged in Isuzu engines and Allison transmissions (except in the Humvee.) Ironically about the same time Ford started selling their 6.grenades to the public.
  15. I see Skywalker has yet to learn his lesson. There is no Force to be found in this one. https://dieselpowergear.com/blogs/diesel-power-news/the-5-worst-diesel-trucks-to-buy-used https://www.motorbiscuit.com/look-inside-ford-power-stroke-diesel-with-catastrophic-damage/
  16. Yep. I've seen several stuck in the mud with only one front and one rear tire spinning. Also happens on GM's when people use the wrong diff fluid. GM limited slip differentials (calling it an LSD is too easy of a joke for the minions here) are called out on the SPI label typically in the glovebox as G80. The other G code next to it is the gear ratio. I know you probably know that but just in case...
  17. My two lane driveway quote was more than my 30X30 shop. That was pre-Rona. I shudder to think what it would be now.
  18. Problem is it's all three. Because you have to do carpentry for the base, then masonry is your medium, and you end up with a piece of sculpture. It's functional art. All built on chicken house parts. Or a really nice elementary school project considering everything around him turns to this in the summer.
  19. Most likely chicken wire over God knows what. Good luck.
  20. Well if that's the case, then don't tell them you're wiring it either. "It's a storage building." Next time they show up it's a night club with stripper poles for an XX meeting.
  21. 1) Da fuk U liftin', a school bus? 4-4.5" of concrete will support a 10k lift. You are pouring WAY more concrete than necessary for a lift. Your concern should be the footers for the building supports, not the lift. I had engineered drawings and pulled permits on my building. Yes it cost more, but it added massive value to my property (way more than my investment). My building is wind-rated to 140 or so (I'd have to check) and insulated. 2) That makes more sense. I went overkill factoring on 100+ amps of service (as in killing the power pole) because I figure my inner Tim Allen is going to show up. 3) Mine came out of Mississippi from a Rotary/Forward dealer. I have a Forward because (at the time) they had the last of the widest drive-through available. Now Rotary got so many complaints from dealers they started offering that same drive-through again. Do NOT buy a lift unless it is ANSI and ALI certified.
  22. 1) build a loft inside the building, on posts off to one side, and call it a shelf. I built one for the corner of my shop and put engines/transmissions/press/sandblast cabinet under it and even hung the fat kid go-cart off the bottom of it. On top is wheels/tires and all kinds of other stuff. 2) no you don't. The pitch of the roof will clear the lift and the vehicle. My front and rear walls are only 12 foot I believe and the roof slope was increased to give center height clearance for the lift. I also have the tallest and widest lift on the market in the 10k capacity range. I can lift my Astro to the roof rack and not hit anything and still walk under it. 3) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT DO THIS. Have your concrete guy get with the building guy and pour the foundation CORRECTLY. YOU NEED FOOTERS NOT A FLAT SLAB. 4) Please video the fire if you run a building 500 ft away from a power pole on AWG4 aluminum pulling 220 to run a shop with a lift, compressor, and lights. I've never seen earth turn directly to liquid hot magma. You are aware distance is your enemy, right? It's going to take larger wire or you are seriously underestimating your peak power consumption (or not planning for future usage such as welding, air conditioning, etc.) Buy once, cry once.
  23. Mine did the exact same thing. It was a broken filament in the bulb on one side and a bad connection on the other (corrosion in the socket). You could literally slap the taillight and the bulb would start working again. So, again, no offense but you're starting at the hardest part of the vehicle to work on, under the dash, where I did 12v electronics for almost a decade.
  24. So...um...no offense...but you started at the HARDEST POSSIBLE AREA. I would have started at the bulbs and worked my way forward. Then again I own GM's and it's always a bulb problem so there's that... (unless it's an Express van then it is, in fact the switch)
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