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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. If the wire is corroded, you need to do two things. First of all, figure out why it's corroding. Secondly, you have to cut past all that corrosion and get to clean wire before you put a new connector on. On Furbird, I had to replace entire runs of wire because it was so corroded from the test connector. I have no idea how it even ran as bad as some of those wires were. If you have corrosion so bad it's causing heat that far back in the wire, I'd want to know why, otherwise you'll keep fighting a problem that will never go away.
  2. 140lb rider? You mean on the back or the operator, because I'm pretty sure the average weight around here is double that!
  3. KBB shows nearly identical numbers for trade in and private party. I don't think I've ever seen that happen. Unicorn cars can pull that off I guess.
  4. Good grief, I can't believe somebody hasn't jumped on this yet. Too far for me and already 3 birds deep.
  5. 1/8th mile/slick/wheelie bars/auto shifter.
  6. I was running 10.5 on a bone stock bird when I weighed 242 lbs. Furbird was never set up for 1/4 so it would probably have blown up before it got to the big end (12/49 gearing.) I have an old PC2 but never hooked it up, even with the K&N and a full D&D system. Bike always ran fine for me.
  7. Use the straight filter in the useful threads page (I had Oreilly's match it up) and curve your own hose. Or cut off your curved metal part and attach two straight hoses to either end. No sense in spending all that money on a fuel filter.
  8. We don't do annual inspections here in Alabama, but since I do rebuilt inspections, I can speak on that decal. Those decals must be affixed to a permanent structure of the vehicle in close proximity to the Federal Inspection Sticker. The reason why is so that it cannot be moved to another vehicle. Your state may have similar wording in regards to annual labels which is why they attach it the way they do.
  9. You talking about this one? Salvage title... https://wausau.craigslist.org/cto/d/wausau-2004-denali-truck/6787629324.html
  10. Damn, I must be psychic as I said 4WS axles cost that much earlier. You could buy an entire quadrasteer totaled truck for that amount and have all the spare parts you could ever need. I suggest you check car-part. I see some with 3.73 for less than $1000. www.car-part.com
  11. 3500 bucks will buy you an 4WS rearend out of a GM. WTF is this thing made out of, unobtanium? Hand forged by Chuck Norris?
  12. I have the tools and have done my own, but you couldn't pay me enough to do one for somebody else. There's only two people anywhere near my area that do it, one is a shop in Mobile (that also does those driveshaft disconnects for flat towing behind an RV that I didn't know ANYBODY did anymore) and the king of diff work over in Pensacola. Last time I checked he stayed wide open because like Carlos said it's voodoo magic going on in there. No matter what, invest in a solid pinion spacer, and do NOT put a crush sleeve in there. With a solid pinion spacer, when (not if) the pinion seal goes bad and starts leaking diff fluid, you can take it off with an impact and install a new one. Try that with a crush sleeve and you'll change the preload on the bearing which will cause premature differential failure.
  13. I guess it depends on how the system is designed. I have been told that on a GM engine, if you plug the oil cooler lines (which are NOTORIOUS for leaking,) bye-bye engine. You can loop the two lines together, or remove the entire adapter and put the non-oil cooler plate on it (which is what I did) but plugging the lines equals destruction. Who knows.
  14. Logic would say certain destruction. Oil would build against the restriction until something failed.
  15. (calculates how many Reese's cups I'll have to cut back on for the next year to cover the purchase price...) 🤣
  16. My old parts manager drove all the way to Texas to get one and he let me drive it once. Easiest extended cab pickup to park I've ever been in. It was like driving something half it's length. He bought it because he used to tow a lot and he and the entire planet will tell you that once you back up a trailer with one you're ruined for life. You can still get the parts for the rearend steering, but some of it can be pricey. I have not heard of a lot of failures with it, and my old boss still has his and has had zero failures with the rear steering. They also made a Suburban with this option, and that is supposedly extremely hard to find.
  17. My initial thought is fluid level also, BUT, those trucks are NOTORIOUS for having transmission issues, so YMMV.
  18. Furbird

    Tire wear

    That second picture is much clearer than the first. That is well outside of an alignment issue being the cause. That thing would crabwalk like crazy to have that much wear that far over from center. I know around here we have several roads with pretty intense crowning because of the amount of rainfall we get. Also, if you ride where you have heavy traffic, especially truck traffic, it will create literal ruts in the road from people driving in the same position in the lane over and over. High heat also increases this effect. We have all of that here. My Firebird with the 315 rear tire width tracks like crazy on some of the roads because of the way the heavy trucks have compacted the asphalt. Another thing to think of is left side lean time. Hot pavement can do a number on tires, and every time you park your bike it's on the side stand. Over and over, always left side. That's going to overheat and potentially flat spot that part of the tire, however microscopic it may be, and over the course of the life of a tire that flat spot may end up being all over the entire circumference of the tire on that one side. I never trust the marks on the rear adjuster. I always measure it. Interestingly enough, I had a friend of mine that said every time he did a wheelie his bike went left while in the air. I told him to check his rear wheel alignment and not trust the adjuster marks. It was off. No more left turn wheelies. So go do a wheelie. If it pulls to one side, your adjustment is off. Or just use a tape measure. Less felonies.
  19. Furbird

    Tire wear

    Nope, the guy is just damn good. Never fails to get it on two wheels. You can see his trick, sandbags or something in the bed on one side. Probably 100 PSI in those tires. The guys in the SUV's going from left wheels to right wheels are impressive too. Then they come by at higher speeds on two wheels (60mph or so?)
  20. Furbird

    Tire wear

    Well, that explains why my brother won't let me be a passenger in his truck anymore...
  21. Furbird

    Tire wear

    It's the crown. You're always leaned slightly towards the crown whether you realize it or not, hence the increased wear. Just ride into oncoming traffic half the time and the tire will wear evenly 👀
  22. Oh, when I went to pick it up, I heard all about it. I ordered my 99 I believe in March 00 and picked it up in April. The guy told me they priced it wrong and it was supposed to be $2,000 higher (as they were still trying to clear out 98's then) but stuck with the deal. Might be because I handed them a check for the full amount, but I bet they still lost money. I would ride over there to buy my oil and filter from them when I needed it until I found out about the diesel oil from here.
  23. I wanted one as soon as I saw an ad for one, but no way I was buying another bike with carbs. In 2000 I had the money, but they had changed to Titanium and I wanted black. Found a dealer in Pascagoula, MS willing to order me a black 99 but they made a mistake and priced it as a 98. $8499. Bought my 96 WS6 Formula and the 99 bird within 2 months of each other, and a 4X8 trailer (in black) to pull the bike behind the Formula. Still have all 3.
  24. Simple stuff that has actually worked in the past: Unplug the ECM and plug it back in. Seriously, just removing the plug and reinstalling has made a difference for some. Check all your ground connections to chassis. That would take a manual when you get into the gauges (not sure if there even is one up there but I would assume so), but the ones next to the tank bolts are easy to get to. I added a ground from battery to frame and from that exact same point to the engine to eliminate any chance of a ground loop. What you don't want to hear: You might want to check and make sure your rectifier isn't failing. Put a meter on the battery while the bike is running. If the voltage is going above mid 14's, you've got a problem. One of mine shot up to 17-18 volts and all kinds of stuff went crazy. They usually fail dead (no charge) but of course one of mine would go the other way. Actually boiled the battery on the bike in my profile pic.
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