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  1. Is fuel pump malfunction/failure a known common issue with our bikes? I realize it's 20 years old, but mine only has 15K miles. I agree with superhawk996 that wiggling the fuel pump connector the first no-go that did get it to start, is an important clue. When new battery arrives I'm going to focus on that again.
  2. OK. Do you not agree with Superhawk996's previous opinion that the bad cell battery is not the cause of the crank, but no prime issue?
  3. Thank you for the response. Yes, it did crank but did not give fuel pump prime. If what you suggest is correct in this case, I'm not sure where to look next. Thought that a bad battery could have been the cause.
  4. Update: after reading numerous CBR "no fuel pump prime" threads here and elsewhere, one caught my attention. Decided to first have my no cranking problems, always Battery Tended battery load tested. At two different places. Bad cell. New one is on the way- can't wait to see if this was the cause. Will update either way so that others might benefit.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions and insights. Yes, with ignition on there's no fuel pump sound at all, but I hot wired it and it's functional. I mentioned the first time it almost failed previously- I jiggled the fuel pump connector switch and that worked for a few weeks/couple of rides, thought it was corrosion there- I don't know if this is a real clue pointing to the actual fault or not. OK then on the lack of a diode underneath the ignition switch- I wanted to ask if it applied to our bikes, as it comes up often as a cause of no fuel pump function on other CBR models of the same age
  6. I appreciate the helpful suggestions. Been watching lots of youtubes, seems to occur quite a bit on CBR600RR's. So many different things can cause it, I will have to go through and test every possible component and connection. Relays, fuses, bank angle sensor, stop switch, side stand cutout, one guy even found hidden wire corrosion inside a fuel pump connector wiring sheath. I did the loom fix a few years ago when that left me stranded. Does anybody know if USA spec ignition switches have the 12v-9v diode underneath? Seems to come up often bad as a fuel pump no go cause.
  7. Update and not good- got stranded with no functioning fuel pump. No warning, just go/no go failure. Thought wrongly that corrosion at the connector plug was the issue, only temporary. I suspected fuel pump failure, but tested voltage at the brown plug- no voltage to the pump! Hot wired fuel pump- it works. Fuse panel checked out. Where and what should I go back from the connector and check?
  8. Come to think of it, I do not remember hearing the fuel pump humming when I attempted starting. No clear signs of corrosion and no burns at the fuel pump connector, but jiggling it worked and got me home. There were no signs of corrosion either on the dreaded factory test plug when that left me stranded, so I'm still thinking that this is the issue at the fuel pump connector. I hoped someone else had experienced and recognized the same problem. I will go through every connector and ground as OMG has suggested. I appreciate the suggestions, advice, and shared experience- I need to r
  9. I almost got stranded today on my '01 Redbird. No running issues before whatsoever, parked after 20 minute ride, tried to start and heard it starving for fuel, then nothing. Cranked over strongly- good battery. I checked the fuses, lifted the fuel tank and started checking connections. I moved the connections on the fuel pump, and it then started. Runs normally since then, so it was corrosion at that connection and not the fuel pump I assume. My XX almost 20 years old- should I CorrosionX all the connectors, or do something better?
  10. Front wheel assembly for '99-up fuel injected models. Verified straight and true, not just "eyeballed". Mileage unknown, but clearly very, very low (it had the original Bridgestone front tire on it). Does not need to be painted, but does have a few minor nicks and flaws, not perfect. Brake rotors never removed or changed, no gouges or scoring. Bearings good. Immaculately clean- this is not typical salvage yard junk. SOLD
  11. Ouch. That frame damage is a deal breaker. Seeing the pictures now, I think your original idea to just part this out is best. Good luck either way!
  12. I'll bet somebody could get this back on the road for under $3000. Start with my bodywork set available at $300, you would need gauges, headlight, switches, more...doable. Only Having only 7500 miles really makes it more appealing.
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