fizzy

Ok yes, clean every connector, but the loom fix is an extra step. There is a junction block that corrodes buried in the big loom under tape, located roughly parallel to the battery. R/R and Loom Fix questions.... - The Garage - CBR1100XX.org Forum ---------bottom of page 1 Is the ECU strapped down in place? If not. it can bounce around and cause error codes. Important::::::::::: disconnect the battery before doing any of this ::::::::::::

Does it make your teeth all soft and pliable?

As far as I can gather, the code 25 (knock sensor) is never due to a bad knock sensor, or a bad MAP sensor or LED light. It is usually either due to a corroded connector plug buried in the loom, fixed by permanently soldering the appropriate wires together (AKA "the loom fix"), or by a faulty ECU. This affects primarily FI analog dash models. The loom fix is not that difficult if you have some soldering skills.

If I was still in your neck of the woods I would be happy to help in person. Maybe I can still help from afar. If you are asking if the relay shown can be mounted under the bike or by the horn.....NO. Mount all electrical devices such as relays/fuses/etc inside the bodywork and accessible. Can you show pic of temp probe and how it connects to the relay, maybe it can be extended? Also, how is it adjustable?

I see top left of certificate, states, "Imported". I guess everything is imported there, except for this:

No, not exactly. Disconnect or cut the Br/Bl wire (that goes to the ECM) near the pump relay end and attach a new one that goes from said pump relay to the new relay. Take the ECM out of the fuel pump loop altogether. I have not done this procedure myself, so please double check against the wiring diagram and your own troubleshooting. This would be after you have eliminated all other faults.

sandman, The trigger for the fuel pump relay is a ground (I think its a ground) signal from the ECM on 4th wire counting from the LHS. Wire is listed as Br/Bl. This trigger signal may be dead. Only reason I mention this is because this exact problem has come up a few times on another blackbird forum. If everything else checks out OK, then solution is either another ECM or hot wire the bad ground trigger signal with a relay thru the stop/start switch. This will allow the pump to run ALL the time the ignition and stop switch is on, for normal operation of the bike. If you res

1. Check fuel pump relay and connector(s) 2. Continuity of individual wires in fuel pump circuit. This circuit includes the ECM, so unplug 2 large connectors to it and clean/inspect + look for any broken wires. Also, make sure ECM is strapped down. There should be a very large O ring over it but can use bungy cord/wire ties etc. 3. Last but not least, you may need to do the "loom fix". In short, there is a junction block hidden under the loom tape that corrodes and causes intermittent/unusual electrical maladies. Not that hard if you are handy with a soldering iron. Not

The CCT death rattle is very pronounced at 3-4000rpm. If it rattles at idle and not at 3-4000prm then it most likely is simply the clutch basket. Incidentally, the CCT can be taken apart, 1 or 2 turns added to the spring and reassembled, to give it a second life.

The stator consumes mechanical power and produces electrical power. The ability of the series type regulator to unload the stator during periods of low electrical demand from the bike would be similar to maintaining speed down a steep hill by being able to close the throttle. Using this analogy, regarding the old shunt style regulator, going down the same hill while leaving the throttle open requires application of the brakes to maintain speed.

FH020AA, buy it here http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm This is what I used in "superkit" form, comes with all the wires ready to go. Requires a small amount of fab work as unit is slightly bigger than stock. No complaints at all. "I don't have a brand suggestion, but if I needed a new one I'd probably go with a series regulator instead". Per superhawk996 suggestion, that would be the SH847 regulator. Even better, slightly bigger again, requiring slightly more fab work to fit.

The longevity of the stator is directly related to the type of R/R it is connected to. "Old style" shunt types clamp down on excess voltage on 1 leg only to achieve max 14.5V. Mosfet type R/R's such as FH020AA clamp down on all 3 legs equally, spreading the load and the heat. This is akin to a 3 wheeled car having brakes on 1 wheel vs all 3 wheels. The series R/R mentioned by joblock above i.e. SH847 is more sophisticated again and puts even less stress on the stator giving it the longest possible life no matter OEM or Rick's.

If you plan to keep the bike can you really afford not to? Also, second the voltmeter mounted on the dash.

Fan motor may be dying once it gets hot and/or old wiring giving the fan low voltage. Also, possible radiator damage, fins etc. As Furbird says above, these bikes run hot, engine hot, transmission hot, frame hot, everything hot. "A short run thru town" is not enough to cool it off. Finally, what is battery voltage at idle when the fan kicks in? Free tip, raise your idle speed a little, this will raise the voltage some and speed up the water pump. FYI: some on here have added a second fan.

The blackbird linked brake system has more moving parts than you may realize. There is a proportioning valve, I think under the rear cowl. I say think because I never actually had to mess with mine. Anyway, likely blocked. I hear this valve is easily damaged, so be careful. Alternatively, you can delink the whole system with a delink kit, "jaws uk" has one. Personally, I would keep the linked brakes, once sorted, they work very well.