fizzy

Greeting from the east bank, Ok, while the FI light is on, motor running, in neutral, side stand down, FI light should flash. Long then short or maybe other way around I forget, the 2 digit code or codes starting with the lowest to the highest numbers. Same thing happened to me. I had code 25. Managed to fix it 3000 miles ago. No more issues. Start with the codes. Let us know the codes. If you need assistance, PM me, I am just across the river

I recently changed stator and still have old one including wires and terminal. I can cut wires off stator and mail them to you. wires and block in good shape

I am embarrassed but not too proud to admit operator error on this one. After re reading all the replies and double checking the bike, redxxrdr nailed it. I screwed up the dipstick read (insert joke here). If you insert the dipstick and then let it wobble, it will read a little high. The faint gas smell in the oil was me looking for a gas smell---that was not there. Ran motor and checked vacuum line at fpr . Its dry. Thanks to all who chimed in, I'll go sit in the corner for 10 mins now.

Ok, so would a bad fpr send gas into oil when engine running, or engine off? Secondly, what are symptoms of bad injector and how do I test them? Background on bike: New to me 3500 miles ago. Starts and runs fine. Did loom fix. No FI light. Exhaust tips slightly sooty Initial gas mileage 35mpg. Been adding 1/3 bottle of seafoam or equal to every tank. Mileage steadily increased to latest 41mpg. Always check oil with dipstick unscrewed, engine cool.

I did my first oil change about 800 miles ago, and checked the level a few times and it was spot on. Checked level yesterday and was higher than the add mark by 1/2 pint (assuming 1 pint between marks). Also has very slight gas smell to it. I pulled vacuum line off fuel pressure reg and turned on ignition to check for fuel. Nothing, it was dry, as was vacuum line. The only way fuel can get into oil is thru fpr, right? Unless someone has another solution I guess I will change fpr (and oil). Am I correct that I should use newer version from 2001 model and up p/n 16740 MAT E22? Bike is a 2000.

Yes superhawk I agree, I don't want to blind others for the reasons you stated. Until it was all hooked up there was no way to know how bright it would be. My blackbird came with clear lenses, which I may replace with amber in the future to cut down the brightness. By the way, the big terminal block was just temporary to test if I had wires hooked up correctly. All wires were then soldered near the connector end which is inside nosecone and well supported. For some reason the Suzuki switch combined horn and clutch functions into 3 wires, so I added 2 extra wires to loom for clutch switch in order to insure this circuit was totally independent since it also connects to ECU.

Extra switches function as Suzuki intended. Yellow switch is headlight flasher and red switch is hazard lights. I did not go into switch housing, only cut wires at connector and switched connector for blackbird connector salvaged from Honda switch.

poor quality pic but you get the idea

If you call replacing Honda with Suzuki parts an upgrade, then yes, this is an upgrade. My turn signal switchgear was worn beyond repair, so instead of replacing it with same I used a Suzuki switch from an 07 bandit (used off eBay). This switch contains 2 extra buttons, a headlight flasher and a hazard switch, but also 2 problems. 1. Suzuki switch wiring harness has different connectors, wire colors, even number of wires, and I don't have wiring diagram for this part. 2. Blackbird turn signal switch is actually 2 switches in one, 1st on for the flashers, 2nd off for the daytime running lights( DRL). The Suzuki is a conventional single function switch. #1 fixed with electrical tester, soldering iron and lots of head scratching. For anyone interested, PM me for all the details. I wont bore y'all with that now. #2 fixed with LED bulbs from superbright led. 1157-aw60-sa amber white. Also, you need clear lenses. This bulb has the 2 functions built in, so single function turn switch works fine. It burns white until you hit the turn switch, then white goes out and it flashes amber. White returns when switch is off. Very bright, almost too bright, although I see new cars with similar DRLs, so I guess its ok. One word of warning. The clutch switch goes thru the ECU, so DO NOT ENERGIZE THESE 2 WIRES WITH 12V.!!! Anyway, all hooked up, functions great, looks OEM. Cost, $65 for switch, $25 for bulbs. I had clear lenses already on bike. See following posts for pics.

Ok, 2500 miles in, FI light has not returned. No electrical or running issues. In retrospect I believe cleaning the contacts on the ecu and adding dielectric grease was the fix. I also added some foam under it to keep shaking to a minimum. In other news, I sold the 1250 bandit, so I am now all blackbird all the time. No regrets, this is a far superior machine in almost every respect

I wish to start out by thanking all contributors to this forum for the knowledge I have gleaned in a short amount of time. Ok, getting to grips with new 2000 blackbird. This first time I rode for at least 30 miles the FI light came on. It was a code 25. Bike ran normally, but on subsequent rides FI light would come on sooner, after 10 miles, then 5. Bike continued to operate with no other hiccups other than the FI light. (Code 25 is for knock sensor.) According to all accounts there is no fix for code 25 except a new ECU! Nevertheless, I did the loom fix, some of the green wires were a little crusty looking. All soldered up ok though. Also, I added additional grounds at the headlight end of the loom to the high beam, low beam and horn circuits, and put the low beam and horn on relays to take stress off the loom, which apparently is fairly fragile. Bike continued to run well but FI light returned after a couple of 30 mile runs. Once on, the light would reappear on the same day after a restart as soon as 3000 rpm was hit. Again no running issues were noted. Checked continuity of knock sensor wire. Check OK. Running out of options I decided to run bike with knock sensor wire disconnected. FI light came on as soon as 3000 rpm was reached. Returned home and reconnected knock sensor wire, and went for a ride. No FI light on that ride, or any ride since. 4 tanks worth including 30, 50, 100 mile rides. ..............Now that I have opened my big mouth, I expect murphy's law will kick in and show who the real idiot is.

My 2000 bird came with ohlins rear shock but spring is too strong for me. Has spring 01092-74 which is for riders over 200lbs. I weigh 170lb, looking for softer spring. Willing to sell/trade current spring once I get replacement

Sorry these are not spares. There are no racks, only exactly what is in picture. three attachment points, muffler hanger with bracket, bungee hook and 1 from rear lift handle. Can be rigged with trip to hardware store, just wont be as pretty.

Does this help? My new to me 2000 bird came with beetle bags mounted with all this hardware