fizzy

I have to imagine Honda already did that, probably using a Sumo wrestler.

This is for the vfr800, blackbird very similar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuYjv1t-pn8

poida, "when i wind the spring in the cct back and then release it the motor no longer has the buzz/vibration.that usually lasts for a few days till it comes back" This is the same as pushing down on the corner of a car and watching it bounce back. It doesn't actually do anything. As you have extra CCT's why don't you add 1 turn to the clock spring on a spare one? Fowlers UK shows p/n 05140MAT325 for lifter only £91.61 14520MATE22 for the kit. £114.72 Note: this is p/n for all years.

You want the "double dot" version, which I believe is the newer one. By the way, it is possible to give an old CCT a new lease of life by adding 1 or 2 turns to the clock spring. To do this, disassemble unit, you will find inside a spring with 10 turns of pretension. Simply reassemble giving it 11 or 12 turns. I say simply, but actually is tricky but doable.

Why people continue to go to The Garage for garage advice is a mystery. Edit: Nice chart Tomek clearly showing the progressive nature of the air gap.

If you believe the difference is measurable then prove it. Measure the sag both ways using method above (air settled vs air under compression) and report back.

I obviously should have said "normal air gap". Didn't think that was necessary on a sophisticated motorcycle forum in the "garage".

How so?

Compressible air gap only has a meaningful effect on fork action at the bottom roughly 25% of the stroke, giving a linear spring a progressive action. It has no measurable effect at the top where the sag is measured.

Do you mean the front is stock except for the springs? These forks as delivered by Honda are not adjustable for sag. In order to adjust sag, the spring spacer length would have to be changed. As blackhawkxx states above, check with Hyperpro. FYI: oil air gap has no affect on sag.

Peter, first off, let me say that if you allow the dealer to mess around with replacing the wiring harness you will end up spending more than the bike is worth and no promise that the issue will be solved, IMO. Anyway, the bike is showing an FI light. To find the code: bike running, in neutral, side stand down. FI light will flash a 2 digit code (or series of codes if there is more than 1). What is the code?

Mosfet? http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm

I used this method also. By hanging the front of the tank from the ceiling you get more access. However, this stresses the fuel line enough that mine started weeping from the crimp. For that reason I am not a fan of this method, especially if you still have original 20 Y/O lines. If you do this I recommend to double check for leaks before you ride off into the sunset.

You didn't say if the ECU was strapped down. Anyway, make sure it is. Wiggling the wires at idle will not trigger code 25, she performs a self test on start up and revving, which for you = 500yds. Recommend #4 next, loom fix. Type in "loom fix" in the search function, top of page. With some hunting, you will find one with pics. This is where with some basic soldering skills, the junction block I mentioned before, is cut off and the appropriate wires soldered together. I did this on my bike (as the block was corroded) to fix a code 25. It worked for 10 000 miles. Then the code returned. Out of options, I bought a used ECU. Some posters have reported running issues with a code 25. I had none. Just very annoying. That's why I asked. If anyone knows of an outfit that can, and has, repaired a blackbird ECU for code 25, that would be good info. Moderator; I checked the forum called "important/useful" looking for loom fixes. There is one, but the pics don't work. Is there something you/we can do to make this useful again? Thanks

Key symbol on the dash is HISS, yes. As far as code 25, or knock sensor, it won't be the knock sensor. This is a not uncommon malady of the analog dash FI bikes. Possible causes of code 25: 1. ECU not strapped down 2. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors..... pins not 100% clean 3. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors.....wires/pins damaged. maybe due to cause 1. 4. "Loom fix" There is a connector buried in the loom under tape (LHS near battery) that corrodes. Can be fixed. 5. Bad ECU 6. Bad knock sensor or knock sensor wiring. The knock sensor wire has a braided sheath that is grounded. Check the wire. Bad knock sensor, unlikely, but possible I guess. Question, does the bike run normally. ? Power, fuel economy etc.?