fizzy

When you turn the key, assuming the battery is in fact properly charged, the fuel pump should run for about 5 seconds. Check all fuses, especially the FI ECU 30A fuse located by itself next to the fuse bank. Since you do have a alighted FI marker light then methinks this fuse probably ok. It is somewhat common for the pump to suffer a wiring fault. Lift the tank and disconnect the 2 pin connector to the pump. Check for continuity on the green wire to ground and the brown wire for 12v during that first 5 seconds.

Definitely use new o rings on the 2 fuel T pieces.

This is on my recently on the road project bike and my first time messing around with carbs so any pointers are welcome. Don't really have a good handle on mpg, but seems a little low. Also, idle is lumpy, although a few days ago finished balancing the carbs with a set of newly acquired vacuum gauges. Haven't ridden it yet to see the results on the road. Pilot screws are all at 2 1/4 turns out. Exhaust and filter are stock.

Per Haynes: USA mains.....as you say above UK mains 1 & 4 142 2 & 3 145 My BB ( which the PO said he had "tuned up") has 150s across the board. Fuel economy is not great but power is there and throttle response excellent. However, next time she is apart thinking of going back to stock to chase more MPG since the extra power is redundant anyway. Almost forgot.......standard needle

On my carbs the needles look like the one on the left. If I remember correctly, there is also a small washer? Hold the tip of a soldering iron on the alloy part holding the pin on both sides of the float, just don't touch the float.

I would build a simple frame with lightweight wood lattice insert. Note: not the heavy privacy lattice. Use super simple hooks or twist clips to hold it in. Problem with the fabric is if is isn't secured properly all the way around a strong wind will tear it up. Also, roof should have been "pitched" forward a little, but oh well, never mind.

FYI: you mentioned wheels and tires, I have 2 sets of wheels and tires for my BB, due to me having a parts bike. Anyway, I am currently riding on the parts bike wheels and tires, almost 10 year old Metzler Roadtec Z6s with almost no wear. Seem fine, I have pushed them a bit, no issues. Figured I should use them up before they get any older.

Motorcycle wheel bearing removal no special tools, see vid below Install, just freeze them and use old bearing shell as a drift (ground down a little so it is a loose fit). FYI, I will change fork oil this winter, thanks for the nudge.

Too many wheelies perhaps? I recently replaced some BB wheel bearings. I took the specs off the old ones and purchased genuine SKF off a bearing retailer. Way cheaper than OEM, but not much more than Chinese ebay junk. Anyway, do you think the rustoleum will hold up on the calipers when you bleed them? I have done some rattle can repaint on some parts of the bike but not the calipers for that reason. 🍺

No yearly inspection over there? FYI: my BB discs look just like that. They make a subdued and pleasant whirring sound upon use. Also, plenty of stopping power. I am guessing they and the pads are going to wear out fairly quick.

Exactly, otherwise you won't have an excuse why you were late for the wedding.

Hopefully, the sump is modded for car use, otherwise, the side g forces will cause oil starvation.

It will take a 90min utube vid to prove to zero it takes 10 secs.

When paying for a restaurant meal on the line for tips, write $1.0E-2

Mathematically, E may mean "10 to the power of". So this would be 1.2 x 10^2 = 1.2 x 100 = 120 +2.....move decimal point 2 places right. -2......move decimal point 2 places left.