fizzy

I have a 2000, which has fuel injection and analog gauges with low fuel light, comes on with 1 gal left. Don't know about the 03's. My understanding is that the fuel pressure on injected engines is too much for exposed petcocks or inline filters. In any case, good to see you have kicked the gremlins to the curb. Lets hope they stay there.

Lets back up a bit. Fuel system with fuel injection is closed and pressurized. The engine only runs when fuel pump is on. There is no on/off petcock with reserve, only a fuel gauge with reserve light. The rope over the rafters (tied to the front of the tank) is merely to stabilize it, not to drain it. It doesn't have to be fully drained, only lightened for convenience.

No need to detach fuel lines. Tank can be "stood up" with the tail end in the pocket behind the air filter, and the front standing straight up with all fuel lines still attached. Run gas down to less than 1 gallon, place fluffy towels behind air filter and stand tank up on them. I ran a rope from front of tank over the rafters for safety. If memory serves I disconnected some electrical wires, that's it.

The ECM is strapped down with a large rubber O ring. It hooks on small ears on either side. I used 3/16" elastic bungee cord from a hardware store as mine was missing. Very important, this could be source of random ailments.

Hey Bear, When gremlins lurk somewhere in the machine, all confidence in a trouble free ride is lost. I went thru a similar thing 18 months and 9k miles ago. So far so good. In my case it was electrical in nature. If I have this right Your symptoms: Gauges fail, motor cuts out, also mystery wires cut First off, you may have a bad battery, or charging system. Permanently mount 12v meter to dash. 12 to 14.2v ok, depending on rpm. Before we can say any electrical component is bad you should disconnect every connector 1 at a time, clean, inspect and reattach. Fuel pump, ECM everything. (disconnect battery 1st). Make sure ECM is strapped down. In my case I did all the above + "loom fix" + added additional grounds to end of loom by headlights + new stator + new FH020AA mosfet R/R. Also, have you tested fuel pump and /or filters? By the way, what about the mystery wires?

Greeting from the east bank, Ok, while the FI light is on, motor running, in neutral, side stand down, FI light should flash. Long then short or maybe other way around I forget, the 2 digit code or codes starting with the lowest to the highest numbers. Same thing happened to me. I had code 25. Managed to fix it 3000 miles ago. No more issues. Start with the codes. Let us know the codes. If you need assistance, PM me, I am just across the river

I recently changed stator and still have old one including wires and terminal. I can cut wires off stator and mail them to you. wires and block in good shape

I am embarrassed but not too proud to admit operator error on this one. After re reading all the replies and double checking the bike, redxxrdr nailed it. I screwed up the dipstick read (insert joke here). If you insert the dipstick and then let it wobble, it will read a little high. The faint gas smell in the oil was me looking for a gas smell---that was not there. Ran motor and checked vacuum line at fpr . Its dry. Thanks to all who chimed in, I'll go sit in the corner for 10 mins now.

Ok, so would a bad fpr send gas into oil when engine running, or engine off? Secondly, what are symptoms of bad injector and how do I test them? Background on bike: New to me 3500 miles ago. Starts and runs fine. Did loom fix. No FI light. Exhaust tips slightly sooty Initial gas mileage 35mpg. Been adding 1/3 bottle of seafoam or equal to every tank. Mileage steadily increased to latest 41mpg. Always check oil with dipstick unscrewed, engine cool.

I did my first oil change about 800 miles ago, and checked the level a few times and it was spot on. Checked level yesterday and was higher than the add mark by 1/2 pint (assuming 1 pint between marks). Also has very slight gas smell to it. I pulled vacuum line off fuel pressure reg and turned on ignition to check for fuel. Nothing, it was dry, as was vacuum line. The only way fuel can get into oil is thru fpr, right? Unless someone has another solution I guess I will change fpr (and oil). Am I correct that I should use newer version from 2001 model and up p/n 16740 MAT E22? Bike is a 2000.

Yes superhawk I agree, I don't want to blind others for the reasons you stated. Until it was all hooked up there was no way to know how bright it would be. My blackbird came with clear lenses, which I may replace with amber in the future to cut down the brightness. By the way, the big terminal block was just temporary to test if I had wires hooked up correctly. All wires were then soldered near the connector end which is inside nosecone and well supported. For some reason the Suzuki switch combined horn and clutch functions into 3 wires, so I added 2 extra wires to loom for clutch switch in order to insure this circuit was totally independent since it also connects to ECU.

Extra switches function as Suzuki intended. Yellow switch is headlight flasher and red switch is hazard lights. I did not go into switch housing, only cut wires at connector and switched connector for blackbird connector salvaged from Honda switch.

poor quality pic but you get the idea

If you call replacing Honda with Suzuki parts an upgrade, then yes, this is an upgrade. My turn signal switchgear was worn beyond repair, so instead of replacing it with same I used a Suzuki switch from an 07 bandit (used off eBay). This switch contains 2 extra buttons, a headlight flasher and a hazard switch, but also 2 problems. 1. Suzuki switch wiring harness has different connectors, wire colors, even number of wires, and I don't have wiring diagram for this part. 2. Blackbird turn signal switch is actually 2 switches in one, 1st on for the flashers, 2nd off for the daytime running lights( DRL). The Suzuki is a conventional single function switch. #1 fixed with electrical tester, soldering iron and lots of head scratching. For anyone interested, PM me for all the details. I wont bore y'all with that now. #2 fixed with LED bulbs from superbright led. 1157-aw60-sa amber white. Also, you need clear lenses. This bulb has the 2 functions built in, so single function turn switch works fine. It burns white until you hit the turn switch, then white goes out and it flashes amber. White returns when switch is off. Very bright, almost too bright, although I see new cars with similar DRLs, so I guess its ok. One word of warning. The clutch switch goes thru the ECU, so DO NOT ENERGIZE THESE 2 WIRES WITH 12V.!!! Anyway, all hooked up, functions great, looks OEM. Cost, $65 for switch, $25 for bulbs. I had clear lenses already on bike. See following posts for pics.