Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

rockmeupto125

Senior Management
  • Posts

    11,129
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

Everything posted by rockmeupto125

  1. Yeah, chalk that up to one of the stupendously stupid things I've done. An extra day to spend, warm weather, an extra set of hands, and instead I head north, park the truck because it's finally leaking too much, rent a car to get Jess home and head back the next day to change a water pump in 40 degree weather. Took me about 2 hours total and I could have saved a raft of trouble. Make mistakes, they said. Get smarter, they said. Errrrrr....
  2. Hey all, trying to get my life moving again. I can't maintain this fleet of vehicles. If you're in northeast US of A and are looking for a good work truck, this may be for you. Of course, I don't care where you are, but possession/delivery might take some head scratchin' if you're in Kansas. My Chevy Silverado is on the block. It's a 2500 series, 3/4 ton but it is 2WD, therefore not a 2500HD. Regular cab (2 door), 275,000 miles and has been a reliable, good running truck. It has the 6.0 liter engine, 4L80e trans and 3.73 G80 differential, which means it has a sort of positraction that kinda works. Towing package so it has heavy duty springs and rear disk brakes. It is originally from North Carolina and the frame/body are solid, but after 13 years in the north the rocker panels have rusted through and there is slight bubbling over the rear wheels. I've put 100,000 miles on it after buying it in 2011. If it wasn't a standard cab I'd never consider selling it. But here we are. Things I remember replacing include the carrier bearing, differential cover, water pump, alternator, radiator, shocks and power window motors because that's a GM thing, apparently. Obviously consumables like batteries and tires. The seats were ripped and I found some nice ones, so they got changed. The AC doesn't work. It's pulled everything I've put it in front of. Towing a large enclosed trailer at 75mph is 8mpg. I recently towed an 8500lb truck on a 2500lb open trailer from lower Virginia to northern PA and got 12 mpg at 60-65. Empty with cruise set on 55 it gets 19-21mpg, no fooling. Around town is 14.......doesn't go into overdrive until 45mph minimum. Post up or message me with any interest. Pictures available if there's interest. Asking $3000 on other venues and I always do better for forum members
  3. Cluublights, post or private message me a list of what you still need. I'm finally getting dug out here
  4. Sach, because of the vagaries of autocorrect in our lives, I want to clarify. NEVER adjusted valves....or NEWER adjusted valves?
  5. Disconnect the power commander if it has one. Replace the fuel pressure regulator.
  6. Has to stay open so that if a member can't access, they have a way to communicate a need for assistance. At least it's only a small place to keep tidy.
  7. That type of bolt is out there, just got to get the right search nomenclature. But I have some XX bolts. What's needed?
  8. Those of you who have visited me may realize just how much XX salvage I have. What you may not realize is the weight of that endeavor. I'd like to be a big help to the XX community, which has given me so much, but it has become a significant burden to me, and I no longer feel I can participate as much as I have tried. That being said, I am divesting myself of the great majority of my XX parts stock. I am NOT including those highly sought after items that are frequently damaged in crashes. I sell those here, on ebay, and other forums, and have made enough money to continue to buy salvage XX's and distribute parts, but that is stopping now. Representative items would be any plastics, seats, tanks, instruments, mirrors, headlights, ECU's. You get the idea. So if you have a need or want for a particular XX part for rebuild, experimentation, or just replacement, shout out. Most of it is free for the cost of shipping. If I have a ready market, I'll give you a price that will be nice on your pocket. Shipping from Pennsylvania. I've thrown out 5-6 XX's in the last month. Probably 10 swingarms, and a few frames. Time to move on. Not from an XX, but from this particular service venue. Thanks for reading. Oh, I forgot to mention. None of this will happen in a hurry. As I sort through the piles for the last time, I'll look for any item requested. Not going on a search for it.
  9. I'm sure I have a mirror. If you just want to replace the glass it will be from a local glass shop. Mirror comes as the enclosed reflective part with the swivel mounting arm.
  10. Bring your own lights. I'm sure I can find a board for people to sit on.
  11. It's not a polished floor, just power troweled. I was looking at the PS100 sealant. No pretty colors.
  12. Not sure to put this in the Garage or Handyman, so here goes. Recommendations for floor sealers or coatings. I'd love an expoxied metalflaked floor, but that's just not economically viable. I want something that will protect the floor from degradation and staining primarily. If It comes in colors that's peachy, but doubtful. I need something long lasting as well, because I'm not the person to empty the garage and recoat every couple years. As an example, I've been here 21 years and have yet to seal the driveway. What have you used or know of being used at your work or a friends garage that you can comment on?
  13. Cal, the forks legs are identical outside as far as fitment. Carb and FI fork tubes are different lengths, and the internals are different. Carb has steel rods and smaller bushings, FI has aluminum rods and wider bushings. As you are aware, they can interchange.
  14. Alright, Club..........I'll go over your list and see what's in the shed I'm cleaning out.
  15. My thumbs are wonky, one explanation is that they are double jointed. Not really, but I'm lacking a pivot point or something that works with leverage. The muscle is stronger than average, but the net result is that I'm weaker than average because I don't have that leverage. Using a thumb wheel is one situation where it doesn't work very well.
  16. I have never seen one of those. Thanks, superhawk. I can't think of a place I'd like to have one. Maybe in woodworking situations, I don't know. I have a couple ratchets with a thumb wheel, and every time I try to use them, I think "why did I even bother?" I still have the majority of the first tool set I ever bought. It looks cheap chinese, but it was cheap japanese. Some of the sizing is only partially struck. The plating is still very intact and the only ones I can't use are the ones which were simply worn out from decades of use, or split because I should have been using an impact socket. There's a lacking of 15 and 18mm in that set, we didn't use them much back then, which I guess is why they are all the rage now.
  17. I crawl underneath my brother's Safari van (from Washington State) and marvel at how everything looks about a year old by east coast standards.
  18. Now that I have a hot minute......... The fasteners I'm focused on are, as blackhawk suggested, already profoundly compromised and often quite stuck. Not only am I looking at brake lines and things very exposed to road salt and corrosion, but also exhaust components that have tubing or wires connected to them that are degraded from thousands of heat cycles and exposure to elements.
  19. Well shit. Now I have to spend more money. 😁
  20. Disclaimer: IcePrick posted this in the joke thread of the forum, not here, but I wanted to further the discussion without polluting the joke thread. Mike, I've looked for this wrench and couldn't find it in 0.748 seconds so I gave up. Could you tell me what this is called so I can refine my search? It looks pretty nifty but I would expect to be exponentially unstable in higher torque applications with the multiple pivot points. The conversation was about flare nut wrenches, and the above wrench checks a couple boxes. BUT....there are two styles of wrench that I have never found, and would like to. One would be a standard click style ratcheting box end wrench that has an access slot cut into it like a flare nut wrench. The round of the wrench AND the drive insert would both have an open slot, and would have to be aligned to place the wrench on the fastener. Additionally, the insert would have to unload and reload into the ratchet mechanism seamlessly as the cut out section rotated past the mechanism. The second would be a split wrench where part of the round would be removable or displaceable to allow fitment around an obstruction such as tubing, and then be returned to make a complete round in order to apply maximal torque to a non-compliant fastener. Open end and flare nut wrenches will stretch and lose grip, ruining the fastener and often the wrench. A closed end wrench is much more stable and being able to "assemble" a drive cage around the fastener would allow higher torque levels. I've done effectively the same thing by placing a vice-grip locking plier around the driving round of a flare nut wrench to keep the drive surface from stretching, but there's not many applications where there is room for that to be realistic. So, has anyone seen either of those type of wrenches?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use