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superhawk996

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Everything posted by superhawk996

  1. Mine has a SS clutch hose and I have no complaints. Been so long since I rode a stocker I can't say how different it is if any difference. I can see where if someone got used to launching a certain way then made a change he'd have to change how he launches.
  2. This is often in my mind, seems many people don't consider it or are just stuck on spewing their ignorance, defending themselves, attacking others, etc. I've gotten shit on other forums for challenging or correcting stupid stuff and it seems that few understand that leaving these poisonous crumbs around for someone to pick up isn't good.
  3. I've never seen an average rider on a XX in MotoGT or Superbike dealing with traffic and the surprises that come with street riding, there is a reason that race bikes aren't street bikes and vise versa. If what's used on the track dictates what should be used on the street we have a fuck ton of mods to do beyond de-linking. My first Bird was linked and altho the feel kinda bugged me here & there, it was never a true problem. I don't recall ever locking the rear on the linked one but have on my current de-linked one, tho luckily it hasn't been a problem either.
  4. Dot 3 holds water in suspension allowing it to be removed easily with a fluid flush. Dot 5 doesn't hold water in suspension so it can drop to the lowest point and stay there eating away at metal until it gets hot enough to boil at which point you loose braking pressure until it cools back into water to continue working it's magic on the metal. It's harder to eliminate air with 5, it's more compressible, it has lower lubricity, costs way more, won't play well with residues of 3 or 4, ......I'll stick with Dot 3 or 4. If someone asked me to put 5 in their vehicle I'd refuse to unless they had a real good reason. As far as gravity bleeding, I've never had an issue with it but also never used Dot5. I haven't used a pump or helper to bleed brakes in at least 10 years. I also don't bench bleed master cylinders as of many years, I do it on the car/bike. If 5 was so great I assume some manufacturers would put it in their cars and I don't know of any that do. The military supposedly has had a Dot5 requirement with their vehicles but I heard they're getting or have gotten away from it because of problems. Other than being safer to handle I see no upsides to 5.
  5. My limited experience says they do improve brake feel but never experienced them with LBS. Some early hoses were real sensitive to flexing at the crimped fittings but my understanding is most or all have switched to fittings that aren't as bad about it. Being that there's so many hoses on a linked system you might experience more improvement than on a normal system, but of course it'll also be spendier and more work. When I do hose swaps, calipers, slaves, etc. I use zip ties or whatever needed to hold the master partially engaged, this keep it from draining so you have less mess and you don't have to deal with getting air out of it which can be a hassle. Once everything's hooked up I open the bleeder, unlock the master, and gravity takes care of the bleeding while I keep the reservoir filled. With LBS it might require pumping, don't know.
  6. I didn't see a paypal invoice so I'm guessing you took it off the market. How'd you feel about that mud cruise? Think you'll do any more off-roading?
  7. And please leave the crud on it so it looks proper when it arrives.
  8. I'll take it!!!! Was it fun using it one time before having to sell it as a junker?
  9. Send it to SoCal where it won't ever get weathered. I'll set up a nanny cam in the living room so you can enjoy the view any time.
  10. I was guessing Fl. Wind & rain….don't worry about it, there's a nice strong hurricane coming to push that pesky little stuff away. Mine live inside too, my 'ramp' is a couple 4x4s and a 2x4 to bump up to the door sill and without the motor it's a mother fucker to get up that without banging the door frame. I can get the front up ok with a rolling start and both mirrors folded for extra wiggle room but there's not much roll space to gain momentum for the rear to bump up. Even my 300# bike is hard to get in without power. Normally I just need to fold one mirror on the XX to get in/out safely. When I had my 999s they fit easily even tho the mirrors don't fold. I'm guessing those bikes were no wider at the mirrors than a manly man's shoulders. Now that I think of it they were barely wide enough to be usable for my skinny frame. I miss those uncomfortable ass bikes. When I win the lotto I might buy one just for the visual and auditory enjoyment.
  11. 86 degree ocean….where are you?
  12. Double post, you're banished. Or have to say ten Hail Maries. Or buy ten of us beers. Or just suck ten of us off.
  13. The left caliper is attached to a small master cylinder that actuates the rear brake, it's part of the LInked Braking System and it's normal for that left caliper to move. It's basically doing the same thing that the hand or foot brake does, move a piston that moves a piston at a brake caliper. As for the reflector; I don't remember how they're mounted and don't recall them being close enough to the fairing to make contact. I also can't imagine the mechanic needing to remove it for that work, but if you see it hitting the fairing then it needs to be fixed.
  14. It's Amazon so probably not mail, but possibly will be delivered.
  15. Ahh, it's both the main fuse and relay in there, now it makes sense.
  16. I just realized that you stated this is the starter relay which would have nothing to do with the headlight and other stuff powering up when you turn the key on. Either you've identified it as the wrong part or there's something else wrong with the bike. I can only see two wires in your picture which would indicate a fuse and not a relay; how many wires are there?
  17. I've heard similar words spoken by people who were able to surprise themselves with how much worse than expected something can be. Not saying it would happen, but it could.
  18. There's one size/type relay that's used on a billion things, then there's all the other ones. As for the common one there's a 5 leg and a 4 leg version, the 5 will work in place of a 4 but not the other way around. I often find 5s in places where they're only using 4 legs, probably cheaper to just have a 'one fits all' part than to use 2 different ones.
  19. http://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/gear-oil/valvoline-high-performance-gear-oil-sae-85w-140-32-oz-/373221_0_0 That'll stiffen em right up. I've never played with them so I haven't a clue how they're built or exactly how to change the damping, but I suspect Redbird is right about needing different shims along with the knowledge of what to do.
  20. Is that the main fuse in that box or a relay? Either way you can get replacements at any auto parts store. Cut your wires back as far as needed to get to good clean copper and splice in the replacement. While you're there also pick up some marine heat shrink butt connectors to make a nice waterproof and vibration resistant connection and you should be set for life. When you crimp the connectors don't use a crimper with the point on it, use the smooth flat or curved type so it doesn't cut through the heat shrink material.
  21. I checked the '97 manual and there is a main fuse, 30a and it appears to be outside the box of other fuses. Odd that the clock works if the main is bad, but check it anyway.
  22. I think there's a 'main fuse', I wanna say it's on the left side near the battery but it's been a while. Verify all fuses with a test light or meter with the key off and on. I've found some with a hairline crack that wasn't obvious and have found glass fuses where the solder melts and the fuse wire is intact, and there's also the possibility of corrosion that'll show voltage on a fuse but will not pass enough current to keep voltage with the key on, hence testing with a load. From there I'd say to check for a bad ignition switch or connection to the switch. Maybe wiggle the key on-off and see if anything happens even if a brief flicker.
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