superhawk996

How do you balance charge a series of cells in a sealed case?

I used the Battery Tender BTL14A240C and it worked great. It's quite a bit smaller than stock and about 1/4 the weight. Cranking speed was noticeably faster than with an AGM. It got drained and left to completely discharge a few times and kept bouncing right back. I accidentally sold it in a PWC when it was about 4 years old. At that point the cranking speed sounded similar to a new AGM. It was $120 on Amazon but when I looked again I couldn't find it there.

Ahh, didn't know they used a 60 in the quadra. Being a quadra increases the chances of the noise being a wheel bearing and not in the diff.

What's so special about it?

If you like it it's worth a test drive at least. It could be something that doesn't involve the diff; wheel bearing, driveshaft carrier bearing, brakes, muffler bearings.

No.

Not a single one! Except for Jeff Dunham, Adam Sandler, Joe Rogan, Larry the Cable guy, Bill Engvall, Ron White, Adam Corolla, Bob Hope, Denis miller, ......

I guess we could go full retard and say that no vehicle can be called "always garaged" unless it was built in that garage.

You'll only know if you ask.

The wires will probably be pretty stuck to the plugs, but since you're replacing both it won't matter what it takes to get them off. Blast around the plugs with compressed air before pulling them out, there's bound to be a fair bit of junk around them.

I ca't imagine the factory plugs went 114k. If they did; holy shit! Being that you bought Motorcraft wires you probably aren't gonna cheap out on other stuff and you can't go wrong with OE Motorcraft plugs. There's a good chance that there's something to gain by using iridiums, but I've never tried them in that motor so I don't know. The few I've tinkered with respond well to advancing the timing over spec, I've done 4 degrees over on a few with no ill effects, the MPG and power both rise. Since it's a tweak you'll wanna listen for detonation just in case, but I haven't had any do it. If you have emissions testing you'll probably have to drop it back to within 2 degrees of spec to pass the visual inspection, if your state does that.

I'll take a set! I'll PM you my info.

I ran some of my filtered WMO through the centrifuge and a scary amount of goo was pulled out of it. I haven't set it up to actually process the stuff yet, but it has moved to the top of the projects list. It has 4 steel baskets designed to hold test tubes and a sealed bowl around them. I'm going to poke a hole in the bowl for an outlet and rig up a way to direct the incoming oil to the bottom of the baskets. The clean oil will overflow them, hit the bowl, and drain out into a container or maybe directly to the bag filter...hopefully. At full speed the centrifuge creates about 3,500Gs at the top of each basket and 6,000 at the bottom, that's some pretty serious shit. I found the receipt for the filters. I bought 8 of them in late 2008 for $40 shipped and now installing my last one.

I don't know if any of you guys have one. If so, and it's not tuned, you know it has quite a bit of a power delay when you first hit the pedal. Very shitty when you're trying to jump across an intersection or similar where you want quick response. This is a super cheap & easy way to greatly reduce that delay. I routed a hose from the exhaust pressure sensor port to the Map sensor. This fools the computer into thinking there's boost earlier than it does and cranks the fuel up quickly. It now drives almost like a gasser, power response is almost instant and the turbo spools up way faster. It probably has no effect on max power like a tuned truck will so high EGT or other damage should be a non-issue. A good tuner can do a lot more, including adding fuel economy, so if $ is no object it's the way to go. It can be combined with a tuner, one guy already has and loves it. I think a proper tune shouldn't need this. It has been named the Map Mod by someone on the FTE forum. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1559257-cheap-diy-way-to-reduce-lag.html

It's a cool basic bike with enough power that looks & sounds good enough to wanna keep it. The front brake is surprisingly strong for a smallish single disc. I find the riding position of any 'normal' bike to be somewhat uncomfortable which reduces the temptation to keep it, and I'm glad because I really don't need another fucking vehicle around here.

Got it from a friend who's moving soon. It's been sitting for several years and will need tires, battery, and a hearty scrubbing/polishing. I cleaned out the gas tank & soaked the carbs in cleaner and she runs. If it doesn't go on a 'buddy deal' I'll pretty it up and put it on CL.

It looks EXACTLY like that, somewhere under the layers of grunge. A few hours in Dave's garage and it might be almost that sparkly. From memory the battery is a 2004-ish Walmart Everstart, neverstart according to some around here. A few days of reconditioning and the fuckng thing actually starts the bike. It didn't come back to anywhere near full power, but still impressive. Last time I worked on it was '04ish. It got a new battery, oil change, spark plugs, and whatever other services I thought were appropriate. He rode it a little, parked it for the winter, the battery died and he just let it sit till now. It spent a couple years outside semi-covered then went indoors 'till a few days ago.

Actually, there is. Park it in the house and it'll be pretty safe. If you don't trust visitors, understandably, put a fence around it. And don't forget to keep them warm in the winter, makes them feel special so they stay extra happy.

When the distributor points open and the high voltage is created I think some of it flows into the primary side of the coil and back to the points. I don't think a stator can create that high voltage spike.

I'd never considered voltage spikes and issues it could cause. From memory the no load voltage is 50-60v., never tested one while it was connected and under load. I also don't know if suddenly unloading it would make for a higher voltage than what it makes when tested unloaded. I also don't know if a series regulator completely opens the circuit or has something in it so that it won't spike. I assume they'd take that into account when designing them.

Warren distribution, they make a shit ton of the private label oils.

That's very close to what I was starting to type, then changed it.

Oh wait....you fucked that motor all up but I'll give you $50 for it anyway.

In case you don't have one.

The pump feeding the cooler does have a pressure relief so whatever it's set at is all you were "forcing" against the plug. The oil exiting the cooler is fed to the inlet of the main pump so you weren't starving the engine. I know this because I'm a CRB1100XX super expert. or because I had no fucking clue and needed to know so I opened the manual to page 4.0 and looked at the "lubrication system diagram". Check it out then rest peacefully, no damage was done and no luck points were spent. Actually, if you were only drag racing you probably did the motor a favor by killing the cooler.🤗