superhawk996

Wish I'd been closer or had the time to go get it.

FWIW I was looking at my '01 and '97 while I still had both and it looks like the tail fairings would accept either light assembly. I didn't think to check real close, just seemed like they'd swap.

Getting $4900 is extremely unlikely, it would have to be a pretty unique buyer, but if you want any possible chance at it it'll have to be perfect and have many good photos showing that it's perfect. At $3k it'll get some interest.

PM sent.

Or bigger tires on the stand, make it more Jeep like.

Wampum, delivered by mule. I'll see what shipping runs, and paypal will work if you can't find a mounted courier.

After posting that I remembered where I'd put them. I thought I had 3 sets of different risers, turns out two of them are stock '97-'98 bars and one set of Helibars. Helis run $319 new, how bout half off? The stock lines/cables don't need to be changed, see link below for details. https://www.helibars.com/products/HeliBars®-handlebar-risers-for-Honda-CBR1100XX-Blackbird/301.html From memory I think the VFR bars require that you do some tweaking to use the stock cables/hose. I'm guessing Heli uses less rise and more set-back and maybe an angle change to achieve a similar position without being so high as to be a problem for the stock hose/cables. I think you can get a little extra comfort from the stockers by raising and rotating them. I did this on my SuperHawk which had similar bars. It didn't do as much as aftermarket bars will, but it helped.

I'll try to remember to dig out my stuff tomorrow and post photos. If I have something you like it won't be $500, just $499🤣 And no sales tax!

Being able to push it up against a wall, seems kinda pointless when you could center stand it even closer as far as the mirrors go which is the widest part.

Risers to install on VFR bars, VFR bars to install on a Bird, or just looking for any type/brand higher bars for a Bird? If the latter, I have Helibars and I think some other brand. Possibly some VFR bars too, I'd have to check.

From very old memory; the clutch on Carlos' '00 would completely stop spinning if you held the clutch a couple seconds, to the point that you'd sometimes have to let the handle off a hair for the gear to click in. Kinda like pressing the shifter with the motor off, sometimes they'll click into gear, sometimes not.

Try holding the clutch 1-2 seconds before pressing the shifter, you might find that it has very little clunk. My aftermarket linkage should have no effect, as long as it's giving a complete stroke on the pushrod. But, it's possible that the clutch assembly itself has some custom stuff too.

Your '01 has a different clutch than the earlier models, specifically changed to reduce the clunk.

Yup, mechanical clutch. I adjusted it tight to get the most release, didn't help so I set it back to where I think it should be. It doesn't start to engage 'till the lever is released a good amount so I don't think the mechanical actuator is the culprit. All I've done with the pushrod is pull it out a little and clean the area that gets grimed up with chain lube & gunk. Mine works a little better cold than hot, so did my previous '97. I just checked and it has Mobil1 15-50 with 2,100 miles. Even tho the miles are low, it's a couple years old so I'm gonna change it to feel good, and hope that it helps the clutch. If it doesn't I'll take it apart and see what's up. Before fixing & polishing it.

Someone who don't get it, or hoping to steal it. If he didn't leave a sizable deposit and/or doesn't come back to buy it he was probably hoping to steal it. Way back I had someone try to use a check, when I said no he went to the bank and got cash. He seemed legit, probably just assumed there was no reason to doubt his check. The guy that bought my Jaguar wanted to give me a cashier's check because he didn't want to fly out here with 12k cash, understandable. Altho I was 99.735% positive that he was legit, I had him take it to a local branch and get cash.

Don't know. The whole engine came out of CBRbear's whitebird, I think that's his name. HIs bike was super farkled, no idea if he raced it. My previous '97 was clunky on Rotella 15-40, others said they had the same experience with the early Birds and that oil and recommended a change. From recollection that one didn't have much drag to it, just stiction. The clutch actuator was kinda shitty and wouldn't fully disengage when I got the bike so it's possible that the clutch was overheated just from traffic driving and having it drag.

Did you find the pieces? I can't imagine them breaking without some obvious damage, only other explanation would be that they rotted away. Or it had a pretty serious manufacturing flaw.

I think I remember some talk about the early bikes with the 9 plate clutch being a little more picky about oil. Mine has a lot of clutch drag; hard thunk into first, clunky shifts, and nearly impossible to get into neutral. It is definitely clutch drag and not just user error, the bike tries to creep forward when in gear with the clutch lever fully squeezed. I think it has Mobil1 15-50 in it now, or possibly 15-40 diesel oil. While there could be a problem with the clutch or linkage (it has a cable clutch), I'd like to try the oil first. Let me know your experiences/knowledge specifically with the early 9 plate bikes.

It was during break in so it could have been things changing about the machine or your use of it. If you were to switch back and the temp dropped it would indicate that either there's a lot less friction, unlikely, or that dino has better heat dissipation ability which is possible. Syn is supposed to retain its viscosity better as temperature goes up and a thicker oil will run hotter. My bike needs an oil change, I'm gonna try to do a baseline cruising temp test before/after just to see if anything happens, but I don't expect it to.

How the fuck did that happen?!?

The first one Carlos linked doesn't look very stable for rolling around. The second/third which seem to be the same thing at a glance would probably be more secure, but you'll still have the front tire on the ground which could be a plus or minus. The fact that they show two different ones on the same ad doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Between the two I'd trust the center stand one, but check out the reviews on the other one, it could be easier to maneuver around as long as it's stable.

9k seems reasonable. Most people wanting a work truck probably want a long bed and that one looks short, most non-work truck buyers probably prefer short, so it might appeal to both a bit.

If I were in the market for something like that I would start by looking at a transmission jack and possibly hacking it to serve double duty as the lift and rolling stand.

$350 is ludicrous. Their claim of "it works with any size motorcycle" is retarded. And to be able to use it you'll also need their jack or some other way of getting the bike onto the stand.

They can be adapted to, but yea, it was a joke/stab at the "any phone". I coulda really stepped it up with being tired of cranking this phone