superhawk996

You obviously forgot to properly lube it. A nice coat of spray cheese should last at least one session.

I wondered. I like it!

I think if the bike was properly dyno tuned it could run perfectly under fully warmed up conditions without the O2, but the cats might not like it so they'd probably be short lived. But who does a dyno tune session while wanting to retain cats? Ideally there would be a PC type device that would work with the O2 when appropriate and ignore it when needed. Or ideally, a device that would work with a wide band O2.

Wide range and full range closed loop operation in cars & trucks existed long before 2001 so the ability obviously existed if they wanted to implement it. The catalytic converters on the XX would be short lived if there wasn't a decent control over the A/F ratio throughout a large range of throttle & RPM. Whether they chose to use the O2 throughout that range vs. relying on base programing I don't know. The people at DynoJet and another that I can't remember the name of both state that the O2 has to be deleted to use their products so there's obviously some issue with the O2 signal and ECU reaction when something else is altering the fuel delivery.

I imagine so since it's plugging right into the injectors. In theory it should work on anything that has the same injector connectors and same or similar impedance injectors. If the company says it won't there might be something else to it I'm not thinking of, or just marketing/stupidity. And technically it would work with an O2 sensor in place, but the ECU would be constantly fighting the PC based on the O2's feedback. Unplugging the O2 should put the computer in open loop allowing you to tweak fueling based off of the ECU's base programming, but I assume it would set a fault and trigger the FI light.

Axle grease should last longer than some fancy spray lube, maybe as long as spray cheese. Mine's a little rough, should probably give it some love.

Water beading on the exterior is nice, sheeting off would be much better.

Pretty sure they all have that. The later ones ('01-up I think) are mounted a little higher and supposedly sealed a little better. But as I discovered "sealed" just means a little less leaky. My 01's test connector wasn't in the same place as all the photos I'd seen. It was then pointed out to me that all the later bikes had them in that higher up location like mine, and when I was searching there was less info about the later bikes because they're less prone to having the problem.

If "large block" is the squarish grey plug where the PC3 connects maybe it was mine. I think mine has that plug, just haven't gotten around to verifying.

What Red said. My '01 is non-california and non O2/non catalyst. Pretty sure the O2 and cats go together, the O2 is likely needed to keep the cats efficient.

My guess is the idle mixture being a little off. If it gets worse as it warms up it's too rich, which is my guess despite not enough info. If it gets a little better as it warms then it's a little lean.

What year is your bike? The PC3 I have is said to be for '02 and up, but some say it'll work on earlier bikes if it has the right connector. I think my '01 has it but I haven't verified.

They're not complicated, just like figuring out a computer issue isn't complicated for the right guy, and fuck that shit because computers suck way more than carbs for me. There are "simple" things that I'm not good at so I can see where someone would give up on a carb, even tho they're "simple" devices. In reality they're a simple device conquering a complex task, the more you know about them the more complicated they become. LONG story short, I can see why people hate carbs, even tho I don't. And I still don't think the issue with this bike is in the carb, but maybe. We'll know once he installs the new one.

If that Bird has an O2 sensor, which I think it will being a Ca model, I think it has to be deleted. But I don't know if the delete is just as simple as disconnecting it or if something has to be done for the computer to be ok with it disconnected. And if the bike still has the cats the air/fuel ratio needs to be kept in a reasonably proper area to not create a problem. My '01 is 49 state so I can't confirm, but I think an '01 Ca model would have O2 & cats. Edit: I think I remember reading on their site about the O2 issue, I feel too lazy to search, but the info should be there.

Pretty sure the PC3 listed here will work on your '00, but verify. The one I have, also a PC3 USB, most likely won't. I just started the research on them and previously had no idea there was more than one PC3 model for the XX.

FI only.

It's also possible that there was a different problem that was accidentally fixed while doing the filter. The best way I know of to really know is to do a flow test or just blow through it and see how much resistance there is.

No idea if it would be worth the shipping, but if you wanna send it to me I'll go through it for you.

Verify that the part # on that PC will fit your year of bike. I have one here I got from Cecome that's listed as working on '02 up only for US bikes. It has a large square connector that plugs in inline with the bike's harness. I was hoping to run it on my '01 but it appears it won't work. Jon's with the individual connectors is probably the right one for the earlier bikes, but do confirm.

Did you also check/clear the idle jet? Your initial problem didn't seem carb related, unless that has an automatic choke. But if it got better from only messing with the carb then maybe there's just something else in it that's screwed up.

5-10 seconds is too short of a run to use up a full float bowl of gas, but there could be something really odd happening. I think the easiest start would be to open the bowl drain and see if you get a continuous flow, if not then start digging for a flow issue. If you do then check spark cold and after it dies. I've had spark issues that 'feel' like a lack of fuel. Last would be tight valves, but that seems like too short of a run for the stems to expand enough to kill it, unless they're at 0 lash when cold. If none of that pans out I'll dig back into my brain for something else.

I'm glad it's not closer to me.

Ahh. You said it was "on for normal running light" and I assumed that meant it was normal light output on the running light. Dimly lit would indicate a loss of ground, and I'll bet the right rear was also dimly lit but there's no reason you'da thought to look at it. $80 seems steep to me. When I see stuff like this I wish I could live near everyone that has a small easily cured problem, that's the kinda shit I fix in my driveway for a beer.....and since it's my driveway I usually end up supplying the damn beer. Maybe I should rethink my business approach.

Almost positive they lied to you and it was the power connection to the turn signal filament side, most likely just the contact in the bulb socket needed a little tweak or cleaning. If the ground was bad you'd have no light, or both filaments would light very dimly if the circuit allows it to pull ground through the rear turn signal.

How and why did someone put an alternator on the bike?