Zero Knievel

I'll have to see if I saved the box.

Cheaper, flimsier components. Less QC process on the manufacturing line. Same brand. Same item. World of difference what I got on the road at a sporting goods store to replace the version I got from Wal Mart before my trip.

I’m impressed at how well LED works provided it puts out enough lumens.

There are many ways to shave costs off of production…especially if the retail chain is demanding a good for a price point that doesn’t generate profit. All I know is that from time to time, I’ve gotten the same item from another retailer and the build quality is superior to the one from Walmart.

Mazda B3000 1998 Tan

I know for a fact that I bought the same item from a retailer and from Wal Mart. The Wal Mart version was lower quality. Not with ALL products Wal Mart covers, but considering they dictate what suppliers must provide and at what price, why wouldn't companies funnel inferior products to Wal Mart.

Like anyplace else, it's who runs the place. Poorly trained or irresponsible technicians and management that doesn't own their mistakes is going to be bad news. The reason we stopped buying tires at Wal Mart compared to Sam's Club was because we were getting less life out of the SAME TIRE available in Sams...as if Wal Mart was getting old/inferior quality stock. Never had an issue with the technicians doing a sloppy job.

Okay, I am a retard. I was checking the switch that disengages the cruise control. I fixed it the same way I did last time...unplugged the harness from the brake sensor and plugged it back in. Don't know why, but this always fixes the problem.

Okay...I can detect voltage but no amperage...makes no sense. Even with engine running (not that it's necessary to work the brake lights).

FWIW, the switch closes the circuit...in case someone thought it opened the circuit...telling something else to send power to the lamps.

Checking lights before inspection. Brake lights aren't working. Intermittent...now not at all. Steps taken so far.... Removed switch and cleaned it. Tested with multimeter...works fine according to the multimeter. Checked every fuse having anything to do with brakes...all are intact. Checked harness part that connects to switch. I can detect current. Tried checking with a test light...light will not come on. I'm putting on the battery tender because it's under 12v (dome lamp on while I'm trying to work on the switch)...just in case. I don't see how I can have voltage (11+) at the terminals but a test light won't even glow.

That, my son, was your first mistake…. Did you also agree to confirm you Social Security Number, provide your mother’s maiden name, and sign up for America-On-Line?

Pretty much. I bought the cheapest tires they had for the pickup (since it sees very little use in any given year). Asked them to swap out the best used tire as a replacement of the original spare (1998). No biggie. Mount and balance for free.

Or, maybe, old batteries weren’t as well insulated, and if a floor had any dampness to it, energy would bleed out through the casing?

A guy who used to do motorcycle plastic repair spent thousands on “professional” equipment just to ultimately use tools from a local craft shop…because they worked better.