Zero Knievel

That band is still popular over there?

Cracked plastic held together with duct tape or bad rashing looks worse.

Great image. Shroom is good...both is better, IMHO. I've lowsided and BOTH really took the brunt of the fall for the XX. Cheaper to replace too.

I used Shrooms...did their job. I also installed frame sliders (RXX can get a photo as he bought the XX from me). BOTH are ideal. The frame sliders need drilling, but it's not too hard if you know how with a hole-drilling bit. The key is to line the panel up correctly and let the bolt you'll use to install the slider imprint on the backside of the panel so you properly center it. Measure 3 times, cut once. If you want added protection, you could see about gluing a hockey puck onto the stator cover as it's exposed and likely to grind on a lowside, but it's not as necessary.

And again I say, "Thanks, Dad." Good Lord that man could be stubborn.

I don't know of a membrane layer, but I know we applied a tar-like coating when doing the project...over 25 years ago. Dad refused to go with gutters, and it doesn't take an engineer to realize 20+ years of water falling off the roof will cause issues. The front of the house drops off a good 8 feet or so from the basement, so no real risk of water eroding soil towards the basement. It's only a 2 foot (max) overhang off the back.

What kind of person would I look for to do this work? What would they be listed under?

Roto Rooter says they can clean out the french drain...at least restoring some functionality, but yes, definitely need to address water runoff.

This has been an ongoing issue. My two cents is that the french drain installed around the basement when we built the house has filled with sediment at one end, and water is not draining away. It's happening in one spot, and it's not been raining the last few days, but in one section, the wall is not only wet to the touch, but there's this "silt" coming out of the brick, and I suspect I can see a slight bulge to the wall forming. I don't know if "roto rooter" can clean out the french drain and restore normal drainage for the whole length or not. I know a "quick fix" that we've debated (to deal with soil erosion and drainage) would be to install a french drain along the base of the hill behind the house to direct water off elsewhere and "build up" the land near the house to restore the original water flow away from the house. I'm debating also adding a "waterproof layer" (thick plastic sheet) before re-grading the yard to ensure absorbed water flows away and not towards the house. If this works, the basement wall should not need repairs, but I'm concerned that we could be looking at excavating down to the french drain to repair it or risk water intrusion eventually compromising the basement wall.

Damn...my secret's out....

FYI, call the mass communications department of local colleges and universities. They tend to mothball old tech rather than throw it away. If you need a piece of outdated tech, they might have it lying around and can arrange giving you access to work on a project.

E-mail a museum? Online tech forum? There are people out there who horde this stuff as collectors of old tech.

First, I'd let it warm up and set the idle then. Let it cool then see what it does. I think I had an issue where I felt the idle was too low, so I bumped it up a tad once it warmed up. I'd never adjust it cold because it should run faster when the engine needs warming.

Nothing more than what a search page produced. Sorry.

Searching on my phone, the DNS resolves as 66.81.35.6 Searching on my work computer shows that IP but also 198.97.190.53. Neither are working on my phone. My data rate's being throttled, but that shouldn't prevent the page from loading.