Zero Knievel

Sam's Club.

Well below "normal." Gotta jump start me to make sure I have a pulse. May be part of why I'm prone to migraines.

It depends on what sources you trust. I take turmeric curcumin every day because it fights cellular inflammation...the real cause of cardiovascular disease based on research coming out of Israel. I take niacin because many neurological/mental issues are improved and sometimes eliminated with the addition of a niacin supplement to the diet. Glucosamine for my joints. Essential fatty acids. Cold-pressed flax seed oil. All of these based on research showing they help you stay healthy. Some doctors know this, some do not.

My last test said "71." The scale of reference is below... Deficiency: <20 ng/mL Insufficiency: 20 - 29 ng/mL Optimal: > or = 30 ng/mL

No, not before. My levels are "off the charts" as my doctor jokes, but that's how he likes to see it.

D3. 10,000 IU every day. Vitamin D is well-known to boost the immune system. I was doing it before my doctor told me to be taking it for that purpose.

Good to know. I doubt it would be fixable as the pressure switch is probably not serviceable, but worth a try.

There’s another XX site?

Good point. Sometimes that’s the only way to tell something is wrong with a battery.

Stator coil. IIRC, the stator consists of three coils working together. Two were working, the third was not. Based on the symptoms, I'd troubleshoot the whole electrical system. Low voltage can be any number of things. My R/R was fine. Battery was fine. The stator failing slowing drained the battery to failure. Having replaced a part doesn't mean the new part isn't also bad (sometimes you get a bad one). Test stator output. If good, install good battery and check R/R. Once all suspect parts are dealt with, look for issue outside of the primary electrical system...like a short shunting voltage out of the system. I had my speedo go out intermittently, but it turned out to be gunk getting splattered on the pickup sensor for the speedometer. Once I cleaned it off and changed the oil, the malfunction went away.

Recheck your stator and R/R. My bike had the low voltage thing and it was the coil going out.

This. I often used a hammer or block of wood to lift the rear of the tank enough to route stuff under it. If you want to install quick disconnects on the fuel lines (there's a thread on when I did this), you can easily remove the fuel tank without having to drain it. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/70322-diy-fuel-line-ez-disconnect/&tab=comments#comment-818895

They say late 2021. Dishes are assigned a cell, so I figure they have to test and verify before they program modems and ship. Works for me. I’m not set to take on this project until September anyhow.

Okay…alternatively, just saw this outlet in the laundry room (where attic access is). It might be simpler to run router/modem cable into the laundry room. Drilling into walls to route cable can be concealed with trim plates, and the modem/router could sit on the top shelf of the storage shelves and plug in right below.

Eventually, Starlink will come my way. If it works, it will need to be mounted to the roof. Big issue is power. Unit comes with 150 feet of cable to connect router/modem to dish. That can sound like a lot, but 150 feet gets used up faster than one expects. So, my thought is to install the modem/router in the attic, but there are no “always on” circuits up there. I currently have an attic light that’s a lightbulb w/pull cord screwed into one of those bulb/outlet adapters. This may be adequate for initial setup, but the light switch (which is somewhat out of the way) would have to be left on and the lightbulb turned off. Along these lines, here is my thought… Remove the light switch and just hard wire the circuit through…replace with a blank face plate. Replace the light fixture with a traditional outlet and use something else to illuminate the attic as needed (a LED rope light would be nice if it has a switch I can position next to the attic access point). Install a shelf to hold the modem/router. Running a new circuit is doable (or at least, tap into an existing circuit and feed wire to new outlet), but that means running wire through closed walls…which is considerably more work and brings into question which circuit(s) are best to tap into. Thoughts?