Zero Knievel

OEM parts should be made by the same company that made them for the assembly line. I'd never use a rebuilt compressor unless it was the only thing available anywhere. Nobody I knows warranties parts beyond 12 months. When my replacement failed, it was leaking refrigerant and oil.

And who did the work? I have several auto AC repair places, but not all of them are good. In Miami, there was a shop that owned the buildings on all four corners of an intersection...all related to repairing auto AC systems. They did great work, but it's a tad far to go to get my system fixed.

The fan is a non-issue. An easy DIY replacement. The big cost of AC repair is the leak testing and recharging of the system. If the compressor tears up, the bulk of the cost is the labor and replacement refrigerant, not the compressor.

Buy the one that can exert the most force on a 20V battery. Trust me on this one. MAX XR - Maximum Torque - 500 Inch Pounds ATOMIC 20V MAX - Torque - 1825 Inch Pounds

Why not? Ever heard of Hanukkah Bushes?

Set a nativity scene in front of it and nobody will guess there’s a generator there.

Success. I had to dismount the fan motor then keep switching off and on until it stopped working. Gently started to rotate fan cage, and it started right up. Bad motor. I can pick up a replacement at AutoZone, and I don't need to worry about the relay because I heard it clicking when the fan wasn't engaging. Only issue is that the OEM gasket between the motor and housing isn't available...so I need a replacement material. I suppose a strip of foam rubber can do the job.

That would be...impractical. Since I can repeat the problem when parked, it would be just as easy to keep flicking the switch until it repeats.

I tried that with no result. I will certainly try again. Too bad I can't move the blower when it's buttoned up...that I know of. It would be an easy way to eliminate the motor as the culprit.

Gad, I hope not...trying to find it would be a pain. Of course, IF it was doing this when it was already running, I would have good cause to suspect something like this. I've taken pics of the two relays dealing with the A/C system. I might see about replacing them prophylactically. If I can get the error to repeat, I may fiddle with wires and see if it makes it come on. So far, that hasn't worked. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D11PZM2L/?coliid=I2F1B83S1JJ1X&colid=O6UAJ0EU8IZ1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN3GTJPT/?coliid=I1VIOIPPB3SY59&colid=O6UAJ0EU8IZ1&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

It only happens, at random times…and only a total of 4 so far…when the blower goes from off to on. Be it switching to a mode from off that turns on the blower OR starting the truck with the blower already in the on condition. I’ve never seen the blower stop once it is in operation.

It’s a 1998 Mazda B3000. Analog AC system. I would suspect a loose wire if the fan started and stopped during operation, but it only happens when the system first turns on…be that from switching it out of OFF or starting the truck with the system already on. A loose wire wouldn’t be a likely culprit when parked in a garage. A bad analog switch should be consistent…and heaven knows I’ve worked it enough to find out if it’s failed. I might just have to see if the relays under the hood are replaceable.

The compressor is only for the cooling…it tore up, and to prevent the mechanism seizing, I disconnected the pressure switch that makes the clutch cycles on and off. The cost of fixing it…again…wasn’t worth it.

On the pickup truck, three times so far the blower motor stopped working. Not while in operation, but from when the truck turns on. In each case, at some random time, the blower resumes operation. The compressor is irrelevant here. It stopped working long ago, and I disconnected it. So far, I’ve accessed the controls and see nothing wrong…checking terminals and reconnecting with dielectric grease on the contacts. I’ve switched the air on and off multiple times, varying delays, and I got the problem to repeat. Suspecting maybe the blower motor was failing, I manually jumped the blower motor off of a spare motorcycle battery. The motor works. Reconnecting things, the system works, and I’ve been unable to reproduce the problem. I know it may be possible that a coil on the fan motor has failed, and only if the fan stops in the “right” position, it’s resting on the dead coil. Not sure how to eliminate that without taking apart the fan motor and checking coils manually…if that’s even possible as it may be a sealed unit. Last are the relays. There may be as many as three that in some way relate to the AC system. Every fuse is intact. Not sure how to test a relay without knowing the layout of the terminals. When the system turns off (blower working), there is a distinctive CLICK from the box where the relays are located. I believe there is no sound when the system is turned off but the blower isn’t working. I see no evidence of damaged wires. Do relays have intermittent failures? I’ve yet to see the problem happen when the blower is running. Every time, the blower came back on with the system already turned on. I got the problem to repeat in the garage with the engine off and at a controlled temperature. So, no change in temperature or vibration from the motor. I could see if replacement relays can be sourced, but it would be guessing at the cause. Anything else I should check?

I’ll try these when I get home. But I can tell you that none of those photos match what I have. Indeed the instructions in the owners manual does not match what we actually have.