Zero Knievel

Well, I think the SSD I put in my old laptop is only 500 GB. Not enough for my taste as I’m hosting two operating systems, but as I hardly use the laptop, it will not become a repository of knowledge that demands more storage.

As a rule LED replacements (equal of slightly greater output) are cooler and less power than standard bulbs. If you want to use LEDs running to the old wattage output, you get much brighter with more heat. Typically what’s in the stores are intended as replacement for stock bulb brightness.

My LEDs were white, but the dash had a crisp, blue look at night.

If it’s like the 99.... You may be able to access all 3 screws just by removing the windscreen, but you get more room to work by removing the front end plastics. Take off mirrors and front cowling. Three bolts to dismount cluster. Easy peasey for the bulbs once it’s off the bike.

Go to WalMart and get the comparable LED bulbs. Costs more but much brighter.

True. No places near you that can repair radiators? The shop near me fixed lawn mowers, so I’d expect to find the service at a place that actually fixes stuff rather than swap parts.

My position is that if a radiator needs more stop leak after a repair, you're better off replacing the radiator.

Easy to do. I’ve always done a manual flush. One time, I was wondering why my rear brake was useless, so I flushed it again. After much pumping (several reservoirs worth) some bubbles finally came out. The circuit that loops to the front actuator takes time to get all the fluid. The front are usually good once you have clean fluid coming out because it’s a short line to each nipple. That long run from the rear looping through the actuator takes more fluid than you’d think.

I’d not trust anything like that beyond short term fixes. Used something similar (not Bar’s), and it held on a cross-country trip. When I flushed the system, the leak returned. Dismounting the radiator and taking it in to be repaired at a local shop was the more permanent fix.

First step of troubleshooting...make sure the maintenance schedule is current.

I didn’t see it, but have you FLUSHED the system with fresh fluid? Front and rear lines? That would be my first diagnostic step as you at least know it’s fresh and clean fluid.

I've since augmented the larger ones with an extra t-post and a metal rod inserted at 45 degrees to brace the one facing the inflow of water.

I would have suggested replacing or at least load testing the battery. I’ve had them show good voltage but die under load. That battery can be opened, and I’d not be surprised if the cells were less than 50% full of acid.

Possible? IIRC, of all the times I saw my instrument cluster disassembled, I believe the clock was soldered to the board. I might be wrong. Find a comparable dashboard off a salvaged bike?

Well, I’m semi-happy with the results. I’ll take pics later today, but for two openings I used 4 foot t-posts (the green ones) and chicken coop wire. They weren’t easy to install because the area around the inlets are mostly rock. On lesser storms, they caught debris and let the water pass over/around. Saturday, I went out and pulled out the debris that accumulated and for the third culvert where the inlet appears to be part crushed from the driveway paving, I just took a section of chicken coop wire, folded it in half, and fashioned an oval to catch debris without standing higher than the edge of the drive. I checked them this morning after the storms passed through. The two big ones need to be cleaned, repaired and reinforced, BUT they did the job. Enough debris hit the wire to block water flow and collapse the circle of wire I erected, but water flowed around the barrier and entered the drain pipe from the back side. No overflow issues in drainage. PICS...