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Aunt Zero

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Aunt Zero last won the day on October 27 2017

Aunt Zero had the most liked content!

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About Aunt Zero

  • Rank
    I am why you should get a second opinion
  • Birthday 01/15/1968

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    Male
  • Location
    Someplace warm, moist and dark.

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  • Other Bikes
    '13 Toyota TitEgg!

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  1. Fuel Sensor Issue - Electrical Issue?

    Well, I suppose the secret was to threaten the original part with replacement. First, thank to rocketmeupto125 for the replacement gauges. They were covered with a fair bit of crud, so I worked for a while with electrical parts cleaner and rubbing alcohol and q-tips to clean them up. Put them in and they didn’t work at all. No biggie. I pulled the cluster and switched back out the originals. Put it together and this time the fuel gauge worked perfectly. Mind you, this isn’t the first time I pulled and reinstalled the gauges, so I’m at a loss for why now it’s gone back to normal, but I’m not going to look a gift horse in the mouth. I’ll hold onto the spare gauges (fuel and coolant) in case someone needs them.
  2. Pimp My Basement!

    Not looking to do walls. Just better insulate the floor....possibly close in ceiling.
  3. Pimp My Basement!

    Of many things my dad never finished on the house, insulating the basement was one of them. Now, other than wintertime, it’s not been an issue, but I’d like to do something about it. Here’s what it looks like now.... The first idea is to put insulation along the perimeter where there’s nothing but brick on the other side. We’d want to seal it in so bits of insulation don’t get in the air. This part looks easy as most of it has no obstructions to deal with, and where there is a obstruction, I can cut the insulation to slip over/around it. The other idea is to also close in the ceiling, but we don’t want anything permanent or expensive. As you can see, plumbing, gas, phone and electrical is run along the rafters. Dad didn’t bother with conduits. So if we want to add or repair anything, we’d have to be able to access it. I was thinking of a veneer that could be screwed into the rafters. While doing this, I also considered adding a layer of insulation, but the typical space between rafters is 15 inches. The barrier would both close in the ceiling and ensure the insulation stays isolated from open air. I don’t know if anyone makes a “sealed” insulation. I’ve seen the kind that has a “lip” so you can staple it in place, but that’s all I know of off the top of my head. Would a drop ceiling do the job better...especially when coupled with perimeter insulation? As you can see in the second photo, there is only a few inches between the bottom of the rafters and windows in the basement. I’m not sure if that’s enough space. The odds are we’d have to hire a handyman to do the ceiling (definitely a two-man job) but I could probably do the perimeter myself. Thoughts?
  4. 1985 Kawi GPZ550 crossthreaded oil filter

    Given the age and make of the bike, I should have known better. Looks just like my Ninja. How the Hell do you manage to cross thread that? I always put it on/in by hand.
  5. 1985 Kawi GPZ550 crossthreaded oil filter

    Assuming an external filter. ”Cut” it off if need be. I believe there is a tool that can “rethread” damaged bolt threads. Try that to rehabilitate any damage. Hopefully his fuckup in cross threading didn’t do much damage. Do you have room to get at it with tools?
  6. Too bad they don’t show it on their website.
  7. PC2 Maps needed

    53.2 sounds about right. I’ve been running the leaned out map for years.
  8. How does weather work

    Much has to do with solar activity (or inactivity). Solar winds deflect cosmic rays, so lower activity lets more through. I’m sure there’s some good material out there documenting the effects of solar activity and cosmic ray bombardment on global weather. Second to this are ocean temperatures and currents...although those are strongly influenced by the prior factors listed above.
  9. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    Not much to see now.
  10. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    The parts that wouldn’t fit were the original Toyota part. So, yes, someone on the assembly line “finessed” the installation.
  11. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    In other news, mom just got done with Toyota. Suspension work tends to make a lot of error codes. As I suspected, the driver front sensor is bad (took the worst hit), but all the vehicle needed was a reset and recalibration. $85 bucks +/-. She’ll get a proper boot clamp for the mechanic who will deal with the boot, and I’m ordering a new sensor to install myself. Toyota wants over $300 for a part available for $165.
  12. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    I definitely tried to support the lower control arm as doing otherwise would put insane tension on a sensor wire and brake line. I just didn’t anticipate what happened.
  13. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    As far as the CV joint, I didn’t account for the front knuckle being prone to move on a vertical axis not did I think the propeller shafts just slide out of a socket. Prior experience told me CV joints were a machined set with a shaft going into the transaxle. I suppose there are different designs or they changed since I last had to deal with them. IIRC, I put a bottle jack under the suspension to keep it up. On reassembly, I got the strut in position, snugged the bolts on the top, attached other linkages (only one in this case)...and that just left the bottom bolts. I used a tapered rod to align one of the two holes and keep it “together” while I worked to align the other hole and slip in the bolt. It was a struggle to get these holes to align. In this struggle, the bottle jack slipped enough that the wheel turned and put it all popped. The other side did something similar, but not enough to pull the boot off. We only had to wiggle the joint back into the socket. I was using a floor jack for the side I wasn’t working on, which likely prevented the same happening on the other side.
  14. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    Well as far as enlarging holes, the top three bolts on the right struts were not straight. So, the tips of them struck the edge of the holes. I had to hammer out the rear and the front came out easy but you could only (at best) get two to line up. I put a tapered grinding bit on a power drill and bored the holes a little to give just enough extra clearance so the tips could shift past. The top of the strut had some flex to it, but there was no way to get the leverage to realign the bolt once it was in place. The left side struts had no such issue.
  15. Strut/Shock Replacement...Part Question

    Well, can’t say anything about how it handles. She’s to use it to the minimum. A local guy can shoot in some replace grease and put a proper boot clamp on. I told her to drive as little as possible until that’s done. My clamp should hold, but I’d rather have one actually designed for the job. She’ll stop by the auto place to have the codes read and reset. If a sensor wire was damaged, it’s $160 for each wheel, and I hope it’s only the driver front. We did turn the car on (no motor) and put it in drive at one point. That might have thrown a code as the wheels were not mounted at the time.
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