SwampNut

I have a lot of insect-killing wood, but also basics like Maple which they love. And of course generic construction pine. Today I did full retard and filled the garages with about half of what I normally use for the entire property. Mixed at 50% extra. I'm 90% sure they are simply flying in, as that's their breeding stage. But just to be sure.

I should have also asked this question. Anyone have experience with a DIY solution for the in-wall pest control tubes? The pros I talked to all insisted on lengthy monthly contracts that are all inclusive. I'm very happy with handling my perimeter and spot spraying on my own. It's not even a job I dislike. But I'd like to also leverage the tubes (Traex/HomeTeam). I see adapters and various DIY pumping methods.

I have a similar one in the yard blower. Which I never use and should sell/give away. Anyway it's always worked great, smells great, and seems to have infinite life. Also, great to see that you keep the fuel next to the black powder. You wouldn't want a SMALL explosion.

Suddenly the word got out that my shop is a free buffet, and I see them fly in a lot. I spray the perimeter of the house and much of the yard, looks like I need to go full retard on the spray in the garage too.

Wow, that's a hell of a lot of shocks.

All useful thoughts, for sure. They are arrows, but I think they mean "release like this" and not the air flow direction. Not sure what you're thinking about filters, but this vac system is purely to clamp things on the bases, not working with dust or chemicals. Vacuum is supplied to these bases, so that wood is held to them magically. The bases also use the vacuum to clamp themselves to the table. There's just one little filter like a fuel filter to keep dust out of the pump. There will never be significant material/vapor flowing through the system. Oddly the fittings are all "high flow Euro style" but I'm not sure that a lot of air is flowing. I think the pump is like 1CFM, or so.

The red/white/black really works for me. Maybe I need a new project......

Shipping a set of diff gears cost me $30 and residential users do get a big discount for printing postage and not going into a post office. A set of rock rails was $150. I'd expect springs to be much less. But whatever, if you end up happy with the results. I would have bagged it, and had been planning to do that with the Gladiator, but then I started huffing ozone.

Nissan made a specific move to get the sub-prime credit buyers, and as a result, also gets the people who can't/won't take care of vehicles. I can't say that's the ONLY issue, but I can say that for sure people in auto repair say neglected Nissans are a thing. In fact, there's a sub for it: https://www.reddit.com/r/NissanDrivers/

Actually posting the pics that I took for this would have probably helped a lot. Here we have the male fitting at the pump, female with a short hose to a T, and that feeds the two bases. You can ignore the T if using a single base. Here's a guy who had the same idea as me, and solved it by buying more fittings.

Sure, but when connected nothing should change, right? I know you don't have a solid answer, but just thinking about it, would you expect any issue?

I'm sure that's a confusing title. With an air compressor, we always use the female ends for the supply/high pressure side, because they self seal when not in use. Obviously the consumers (tools) are male and open to atmosphere. I just got that vacuum clamping system, and it's all backwards, depending on how you look at it. The vac pump, the supply side of the work if that's how you see it, is male. The consumers (vacuum clamp pods) are female. The pressure side remains female in this case, but the pressure is atmosphere, not the pump. I'm asking because the two clamping pods have a long hose with a female, and plug into either the pump or a T-connector that feeds both pods at once. I'd like to hide the pump under the bench, and make a nice hanging solution for the pods. I need to either buy and put connectors on them, or...why not just reverse the hoses? Have them both leave the T-connector as hoses, not QDs, and move the QDs to the pod side. I'm also super fucking curious. Side note, the Festool QD is the smoothest, softest-engaging QD you have ever touched. I swear they just fall in place with no pressure (even with the vac off). I'd have to buy more of those, I cannot bring myself to use regular plebeian QDs on this tool.

I had a shutdown timer in the Renault, but don't recall the details. The engine would run for a minute or two after removing the key.

I've had two turbo cars, that I can recall. A Renault and an Isuzu diesel. The Renault was well past 100k, the Isuzu 200k. The Renault turbo did fail, but I have no idea what service was like before I got it, and the waste gate had been "tuned." I didn't learn of that until it blew the intercooler caps off. So probably 150k running miles with abuse. And that's an 80s/90s car, they are far better now. A neighbor has a BMW with 300k on the original turbos --in Arizona--. I guess BMW is well known for reliability though.

Yeah, because what's in my house, and I am familiar with, is a box on the back and a vent on the visible side.

I don't know what trucks you are looking at, but a friend just told me that many full size trucks are being advertised for 0% interest. That's effectively a huge discount with CD rates approaching 5%.

The F150L has no turbos and gets phenomenal fuel economy.

A wild idea, depending on metal thickness... Use a small drill to go through the center of the pin and out the other side. Then enlarge that, and press out normally.

Toothpaste tube. Mixing them up could be interesting.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Thermite

That sweet hot mustard has both sweet and slightly spicy red peppers in it, so it's pretty different.