NoOne65 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 If you dont have a vacuum bleeder how do you do the LBS brakes on the XX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I can honestly say I never tried. It's enough of a PITA even with a vacuum pump that I'd hate to try it without one. They can be had for about $20 and have a ton of uses. I'd recommend picking one up and saving the headache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Well I am on a bit of a fixed income for the next few weeks til I get my first paycheck from the new job I just got so buying one will be tough for now. I kinda need to do them because the rear brake is VERY spongy after replacing the pads with some I had from many years ago (I do indeed use the back brakes)...I tried closing the proportioning valve (the valve that actuates when the front brake is applied) and then bled it normally with a 1 man bleeder kit front and rear twice and still have to pump 2-3 times for the rear pedal to firm up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I never had problem changing rear brake fluid but I never opened the rear brake line to get air in. I would bleed per manual then ride it a while to try to get any air to move and bleed again. When I changed the front lines, I had a heck of a time getting the air out and a vacuum bleeder didn't help. Just think of the air being trapped and how you can get it to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Gravity. I've never done it on a licked bird, but it's how I bleed almost everything I work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poida Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 i usually flush out the old fluid with new every couple of years.i follow the sequence as stated in the manual.i push a section of clear hose onto the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose going into a jar that i have enough fresh fluid in that it covers the end of the hose.then pull the lever till it,s under pressure then release the nipple.once the lever hits the bar,nip up the nipple and release the lever.repeat until fresh clean fluid is coming out.sometimes it can help to work the lever a few times before releasing the nipple.just make sure you always have enough fresh fluid in the master cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 pretty much what poida said I do the same and also get a helping hand or some large zip ties and activate the linked brakes left caliper and bleed that also. once done, put a cap on the bottle of old fluid and toss all into the trash or carry to local recycle facility if they take that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I was assuming a need to get rid of some air. If you're just talking fluid replacement Poida and Krypt have you covered, no pump required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 23 hours ago, Redbird said: I was assuming a need to get rid of some air. If you're just talking fluid replacement Poida and Krypt have you covered, no pump required. I replaced the rear pads and after I pushed the pads back into the caliper I installed them and found the air..takes 3 pushes of the pedal for it to firm up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Replacing the pads won't let air into the system, unless you opened a bleeder or something. If you didn't open the hydraulic system you have a different problem that needs to be figured out. Does the pedal go soft with the bike sitting still or only when riding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 both sitting still and moving...I just bled them and i still have to pump to get them firm I tried per the manual and also XX Brake Bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 still air in there trapped somewhere.. pump...pump...pump... crack open... go with the hose method to help you see if any air escapes.. you didn't accidently let the reservoir run empty while bleeding did you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 No the level stayed filled.but I kept it full and pumped basically nothing but fluid out of the clear tube...front is perfect though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poida Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking. if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 When you changed the pads did you open the bleeder or any other part of the hydraulic system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 7 hours ago, poida said: when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking. if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though. Just some old new pads I never used. They did have the backing plates.Its just the damned LBS...I never have problems with bleeding the front 5 hours ago, superhawk996 said: When you changed the pads did you open the bleeder or any other part of the hydraulic system? Nope I just used a screwdriver against the old pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Air can't enter the system without opening the system so your problem isn't air. My guess would be the pads aren't seated right or the caliper isn't mounted right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 On 4/4/2016 at 5:13 PM, NoOne65 said: ...I tried closing the proportioning valve (the valve that actuates when the front brake is applied) I'm not sure what you did here. Can you describe this in detail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, superhawk996 said: Air can't enter the system without opening the system so your problem isn't air. My guess would be the pads aren't seated right or the caliper isn't mounted right. Well I cant say there is no air cuz its been this way for a long time and i am just now getting to it. I just dont understand when I follow the procedure no air comes out of any bleed screws, just liquid. I think some day in the future I will de-link 2 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said: I'm not sure what you did here. Can you describe this in detail? sorry meant the cylinder that actuates when the wheel rotates and the front brakes are applied Edited April 8, 2016 by NoOne65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Just a thought to throw into the mix. When you used the screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons back, did you have the reservoir cap off? It is a sealed system and when you push the pistons back the reservoir cap must be removed. If the cap is still on when you push the pistons back, you will create a problem. Sometimes the plunger gets turned inside out, but that will affect both front and rear brakes and sometimes it will force a leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Plunger? What & where is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne65 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 13 hours ago, John01XX said: Just a thought to throw into the mix. When you used the screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons back, did you have the reservoir cap off? It is a sealed system and when you push the pistons back the reservoir cap must be removed. If the cap is still on when you push the pistons back, you will create a problem. Sometimes the plunger gets turned inside out, but that will affect both front and rear brakes and sometimes it will force a leak. I did leave the cap on but I dont understand how that can put air in the system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 7 hours ago, superhawk996 said: Plunger? What & where is this? My guess is the diaphragm in the master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said: My guess is the diaphragm in the master. +1 rubber diaphragm in the master cylinder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 The piston seal or the seal on the cap? I can't see either being turned inside out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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