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siezed nyloc lock nut


wr0ngway

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This has to do with a lawnmower wheel but I'm posting here in case anybody has encountered and solved this very frustrating condition-

I replaced a 1/2" bolt on the wheel connection assembly and decided to be smart and use a nylon lock nut. The new nut went on the new bolt, nice and tight, about half way down the 3" bolt and then wouldn't "go no mo", neither back nor forth, lots of muscle, though not with a cheater bar, just an 8" crescent and socket, but the nut barely moves. It's as TIGHT AS [insert anal reference].

i'm thinking there is a reaction which makes the nylon turn into glue from the heat of friction but I can't find any data to confirm this. I'll try some penetrating oil and when that doesn't work I'll heat up the nut to soften the nylon (i think it was an ehow article that said +250 degrees).

I've used nylon lock nuts in the past, never had this problem before.

Thanks,

Sticky Nuts

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You didn't by any chance use a drill or electric screwdriver to tighten the nut? I did this when I was assembling a pool ladder, since there were a bunch of them to do. If you spin the nut too fast the nylon seems to melt and "weld" itself in place. I don't have any suggestions on how to unstick it, I just cut the bolt and put in a new one. Could you use a dremel to cut off the nut?

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+1 on the dremel to cut the nut off. Probably the fastest solution other than soak the crap out of the bolt with lube and hope it just lets go. An impact wrench MIGHT break it loose, but it could also shear the bolt if it's on real bad.

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Never had this happen because of a nylock and I wrench every day. Most likely something was in the threads that galled them up. If it's a stainless nut & bolt galling happens all the time even without debris in it, some grades require lube before assemble to prevent galling. More force, or cut it. If you want to add a tool to your collection, get a nut splitter; quick and easy. Most likely the bolt is now fucked anyway so you have nothing to loose with more force and breaking the bolt.

Edited by superhawk996
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This has to do with a lawnmower wheel but I'm posting here in case anybody has encountered and solved this very frustrating condition-

I replaced a 1/2" bolt on the wheel connection assembly and decided to be smart and use a nylon lock nut. The new nut went on the new bolt, nice and tight, about half way down the 3" bolt and then wouldn't "go no mo", neither back nor forth, lots of muscle, though not with a cheater bar, just an 8" crescent and socket, but the nut barely moves. It's as TIGHT AS [insert anal reference].

i'm thinking there is a reaction which makes the nylon turn into glue from the heat of friction but I can't find any data to confirm this. I'll try some penetrating oil and when that doesn't work I'll heat up the nut to soften the nylon (i think it was an ehow article that said +250 degrees).

I've used nylon lock nuts in the past, never had this problem before.

Thanks,

Sticky Nuts

Did you start the nut with your fingers? It should not be nice and tight it should thread up to the nylock very easerly (nylock on outside) then tighten down with wrench till tight, I think you may have cross threaded it or nut and bolt have different thread.

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It's definitely not the nylon portion of the nut keeping it from turning. What Superhawk said is most likely what happened, but Silverbird could also be right. If you can replace both the bolt and nut, do it. My guess is you won't have a choice.

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, I think you may have cross threaded it or nut and bolt have different thread.

+1

Which may not have been your fault.... I've found Lots and Lots of Bad nuts, that have damaged or improperly cut threads straight out of the "New" box.

A Nut with the wrong pitch threads starts out great, but slowly shaves of more and more metal, until it goes into lock up, as you described. However, this usually happens on a Bolt that's too Long. The Bolt threads should never stick out of the back of the nut more than 1/2", if they do... wrong bolt.

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Some sizes of metric and sae hardware will seem to match 'till you get almost the full length of the nut on, something you can't easily test for with a nylock. If by 1/2" bolt you mean it has a 1/2" head, that most likely makes it a 5/16 bolt which happens to mate pretty well with an 8mm nut of the right thread pitch. If it's a 1/2" bolt I don't think any metric will be close enough to make it seem right.

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I'm sure there's a better definition of galling, but basically the nut and bolt stick and rip. It's most prevalent with certain grades of stainless, I think 300 series. Mixing different metals between nut and bolt will usually keep it from happening as will certain lubes.

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