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Leaking rear axle...


Zero Knievel

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Dad commented about oil leakage from my truck. I found it coming from the rear axle.

From what I can tell, it's originating from where the propeller shaft goes into the rear differential. My guess is that a seal has ruptured. No noise that I've noticed from the rear-end. It's basically allowing any oil above the input point to leak out, but not all the oil.

Anyone have any insight as to what will be involved to repair the problem? I'd think it only needs a new seal, but will I be pressured to replace the bearings/races in that area as well?

Like to know before consulting mechanics about doing the job.

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I don't know about Mazdas, but this is pretty commonplace on GM stuff. I've replaced that seal multiple times in both of my current vehicles, and they still go out, so I just keep checking the fluid level at every oil change. It's a fairly simple repair, IF you have a lift. Drain the fluid, remove driveshaft, count the number of exposed threads on the pinion nut, remove nut-yoke-seal, RTV new seal around the edge and install, reverse process.

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There's a couple of ways to do this, other than using the board as a resource, if you cannot find a satisfactory answer here:

1. Go to an auto parts store and buy a manual for your particular vehicle. About $30. I have found them to be good general references, and a good thing to have in your shop.

2. Go to the library, rent the same book for nothing (courtesy of your local government, paid for by taxes, assessments, and fines)

3. Join a B3000/ranger forum and do a search.

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There's a couple of ways to do this, other than using the board as a resource, if you cannot find a satisfactory answer here:

1. Go to an auto parts store and buy a manual for your particular vehicle. About $30. I have found them to be good general references, and a good thing to have in your shop.

2. Go to the library, rent the same book for nothing (courtesy of your local government, paid for by taxes, assessments, and fines)

3. Join a B3000/ranger forum and do a search.

Have the manual...it's fairly useless. Gives one picture and how to take apart and put back together, but no INSIGHT if it's just a bad oil seal or worse.

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Why the hell even ask here? Would you ask a Blackbird question on the Mazda forum? Go to a forum specific to your vehicle. If it's a common problem you won't even have to search, it'll be be a sticky.

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Why the hell even ask here?

To be fair, we ask everything here. Can't decide what color of underwear, ask here? :icon_biggrin:

What is this underwear you speak of?

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Why the hell even ask here?

To be fair, we ask everything here. Can't decide what color of underwear, ask here? :icon_biggrin:

Exactly.

Considering the broad range of experience we have here, I figured I'd ask.

I did post on a Ford/Mazda forum, but nobody replied by the time I went home...I'll see if any replies were posted tomorrow.

Hell, it doesn't even have to be specific to my pickup. I presume other high-mileage rear-wheel drive vehicles may have had this happen before.

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Still no replies on the Mazda forum.

Odd thing is that the manual specifies API GI-5 SAE 90 for the differential oil.

Everything I try to pull up asks if I'm looking for GL-5. No, it's not a typo. GI-5 is what the owner's manual specifies.

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Easy fix, its just the yoke seal leaking..

most of this will sound like a cheap porno..

drain rear :icon_redface:

remove u-joints

pb blast or whatever lube you like the yoke nut (that sounds wrong)

big fucking socket and impact

pull out (also sounds dirty) :icon_whistle:

replace seal,

insert yoke

put nut back on

put in new u-joints while your in there

fill up rear with gear oil

i need a cigarette are reading what I wrote.. :icon_twisted:

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Easy fix, its just the yoke seal leaking..

most of this will sound like a cheap porno..

drain rear :icon_redface:

remove u-joints

pb blast or whatever lube you like the yoke nut (that sounds wrong)

big fucking socket and impact

pull out (also sounds dirty) :icon_whistle:

replace seal,

insert yoke

put nut back on

put in new u-joints while your in there

fill up rear with gear oil

i need a cigarette are reading what I wrote.. :icon_twisted:

Sounds kind of like that side trip you, zero and I took that night.

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FYI, the rear ends of rangers and B-series trucks have a flanged connection to the yoke. If the U-joints move freely by hand, but are not obviously worn, save the U-joint replacement for another day. They will likely need to be torched out. Don't ask how I know.

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Easy fix, its just the yoke seal leaking..

most of this will sound like a cheap porno..

drain rear :icon_redface:

remove u-joints

pb blast or whatever lube you like the yoke nut (that sounds wrong)

big fucking socket and impact

pull out (also sounds dirty) :icon_whistle:

replace seal,

insert yoke

put nut back on

put in new u-joints while your in there

fill up rear with gear oil

i need a cigarette are reading what I wrote.. :icon_twisted:

Sounds kind of like that side trip you, zero and I took that night.

Worse thing is I actually heard banjo's playing that night also.. :icon_shifty:

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Hell, it doesn't even have to be specific to my pickup. I presume other high-mileage rear-wheel drive vehicles may have had this happen before.

Sure, rear diff seals are a common maintenance item, but specific issues vary. Hopefully the Mazda B-series enthusiasts (if there are any) will have some good input on other things that need to be looked at or replaced at the same time -- especially if you're paying someone to do the work. The output shaft seals on my old BMW are leaking, but slowly enough that I just top it up a couple times a year. Sounds like your leak is a bit more serious.

My Mazda B story: about 12 years ago I was GPS mapping remote roads in Alberta, 2 man crew in a B2200 automatic that listed about 20 degrees in strong crosswind (we called her Irene). The boss was a huge rally fan and always looked for rally racing on TV if we were staying in a motel that had cable. One fine day we were in the middle of nowhere (somewhere west of Drayton Valley I think) and started seeing signs indicating a rally course (Rocky Mountain Challenge or some such IIRC). There was no one around, the race had been over for some days. We mapped the road, came to a dead end, and then turned around . . . at which point the boss looked at the freshly mapped rally course on the datalogger screen, grinned, and said go for it. He called out the turns while I flogged Irene, 2 guys, 3 spare wheels, and luggage through a world class rally course in an awesome display of wheezing 4-banger fury. The most exciting part was him screaming "CREST -- LEFT! 200 METERS!", drifting over the top of the rise right into the path of a fucking one ton dually pulling a horse trailer. Good times.

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Pack the centersection in saw dust and lithium grease and put her up for sale on the local Craigs site. Won't be long till the gears start howling, and then go tits up. :icon_mad:

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See, wasn't that easy. :icon_biggrin:

True, but I didn't want a mechanic to BS me on all kinds of stuff that needed to be done if common experience was that it shouldn't be that bad. Helps to talk to others who have dealt with the same problem.

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grease?

I put gear oil in my pumpkins.

Once all the hypoid lube leaks out of the damaged seal, the gears run dry and tooth faces gall, peen, and tolerances go through the roof. The howl has begun. Depending on the type of gears they are likely only hardened on the surface, and if worn through this layer its now the road to destruction. Grease, and sawdust fills the cantact area and quiets it down. For a while anyways....

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grease?

I put gear oil in my pumpkins.

Once all the hypoid lube leaks out of the damaged seal, the gears run dry and tooth faces gall, peen, and tolerances go through the roof. The howl has begun. Depending on the type of gears they are likely only hardened on the surface, and if worn through this layer its now the road to destruction. Grease, and sawdust fills the cantact area and quiets it down. For a while anyways....

I wrote lithium grease.

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