partsman Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Should be simple right? Manual is next to useless,"use a screwdriver to align the gears", how exactly? The crank gear is spring loaded but doesn't want to move and I'm bound to chip the case if I keep prying.Have failed at many attempts now,about to haul the bike to a mechanic buddys this weekend,would rather not,so if anyone has some advice I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 grab basket with both hands and turn and push in at the same time. Not that hard. direction to turn is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Thanks Stan,I'll give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 I've done this multiple times, and can't recall ever having to resort to any extreme measures. Wish I had a snappy solution for you, but I can't even recall the specifics of doing it...which underscores that it went together luckily without grief whenever I've done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Well it appears I could not tell the crank gear had divided(for lack of a better definition),first time I shone a light in there it looked even,so as soon as I lined the two parts up the basket slipped right in.Why it moved in the first place is beyond me,it came right off,with resistance,but straight off. And this time I'm trying something new.I have for the last several years used a method I read about years ago to allow some clutch slip during a high rpm launch.After putting up with the worlds grabbiest clutch after doing a burn-out for the first few years I raced it I was ready to try anything.It involved grinding the teeth out of one steel plate and putting it at the back against the hub,then two friction,then normal layout.Sounds crazy,works great. But its eats hubs,wears a ring into it from back and forth movement.Still I could go to the track a dozen times before I needed new plates and re-use the hub anyway.So this time its still ground out but going in its normal place in line. Last year I replaced just the last 3 plates and the bike lost mph from the first day at the track but ran great all year.Never thought to check the clutch,couldn't even feel it slipping.It ate the fiber off the the friction plate right down to the metal,the one beside the modified steel plate.I hardly raced at all last year,the only other thing I did was put new springs in. So I hope this works,I have no consistency without it and I am dead set on breaking my 9.67 which was 3 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 the crank gear has a dampener gear spring loaded that meshes with the clutch basket. Takes up the slack between the gear teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Well it appears I could not tell the crank gear had divided(for lack of a better definition),first time I shone a light in there it looked even,so as soon as I lined the two parts up the basket slipped right in.Why it moved in the first place is beyond me,it came right off,with resistance,but straight off. And this time I'm trying something new.I have for the last several years used a method I read about years ago to allow some clutch slip during a high rpm launch.After putting up with the worlds grabbiest clutch after doing a burn-out for the first few years I raced it I was ready to try anything.It involved grinding the teeth out of one steel plate and putting it at the back against the hub,then two friction,then normal layout.Sounds crazy,works great. But its eats hubs,wears a ring into it from back and forth movement.Still I could go to the track a dozen times before I needed new plates and re-use the hub anyway.So this time its still ground out but going in its normal place in line. Last year I replaced just the last 3 plates and the bike lost mph from the first day at the track but ran great all year.Never thought to check the clutch,couldn't even feel it slipping.It ate the fiber off the the friction plate right down to the metal,the one beside the modified steel plate.I hardly raced at all last year,the only other thing I did was put new springs in. So I hope this works,I have no consistency without it and I am dead set on breaking my 9.67 which was 3 years ago. The grabby clutch problem can be solved with a Brock Davidson "clutch cushion", about $125-150. They are/were popular with Busa racers. Made my clutch feel like the early GSXRs with the coil springs. However, he has only made one prototype for a Bird, mine, and will only make more with a minimum order of 5. I tried to do a group buy a year or so back, but two guys backed out. If there is interest, I'm still in for 2. :icon_pray: I remember discussion of another fix, but it involved some delicate work on that first steel plate. :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Well I have different theories on why it went bad last time,it may be I took too much material off the steel.Maybe it still has to have enough teeth to hold on to the hub,that's how I did it the first two times and it lasted quite well. There's another guy in Florida with an '03 who uses the judder spring and outer friction plate from a '97,takes out a fiber and doubles up a steel.I'm not 100% of his exact layout but thats basically how he explained it.Pulling mid 1.50's 60' on a good day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haWHYnXX Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Well it appears I could not tell the crank gear had divided(for lack of a better definition),first time I shone a light in there it looked even,so as soon as I lined the two parts up the basket slipped right in.Why it moved in the first place is beyond me,it came right off,with resistance,but straight off. There is a small hole in the side of the primary drive gear that you put a small screwdriver into (I use an awl). When you look into that hole you will see the sub-gear behind it a very tiny bit unaligned. Just put a little pressure between those holes with the awl and it lines up the primary drive gear teeth with the sub-gear teeth (which are spring loaded to provide pressure) allowing the basket to slide right in. Hard part is finding the hole. I turn the motor over slowly with a socket and breaker bar on the ignition pulse generator rotor bolt while looking at the primary drive gear behind the ignition pulse generator rotor with a flashlight. As the drive gear turns you will see a bunch of holes go by, but you're looking for one that is only 2-3mm in diameter. It is the only one that small, you'll know when you see it. Had a hell of a time figuring this out the first time I took mine apart too. Happy to explain over phone to anyone who pulls their clutch apart in the future. Just send a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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