Zero Knievel Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Since the stator is toast, I've been told there are better made units compared to Honda OEM. As there is the risk of the "new" R/R on the bike being damaged by the failed stator, I believe it's advised to replace it as well. If you know who makes the better aftermarket units for a 99 XX, post up. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptxyz Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 mine got fried in it's hot oil bath last year. it was replaced with a rick's electics and so far, so good. still using a used honda r/r though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Along the same lines.... If the stator goes out, does that mean the R/R and the battery are ruined as well? Is there a way to test either for damage and KNOW if they are unharmed or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I have Rick`s stator ( per Hobicus recommendation ) , around 30 k miles on it , my OEM part lasted something like 145 k miles . When I replaced stator I also swapped RR to the one from 04-07 R1 although I was kind of custom fit . Yamaha part is monstrous with huge cooling fins , I had to grind them in the order to make it fit in stock location . Everyone wants RRs from earlier R1/FZs , I got mine on egay for laughable change . LOL . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Ping Hobi..... he needs the alimoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Ping Hobi..... he needs the alimoney Dude.. I don't make anything on stuff I sell to the XX group. I will call tomorrow and get a price for a Rick's stator. I would go with an OEM RR though, unless you want to do an R1 swap. If you do, ping Bartonmd, he makes a connector for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 I just got a replacement stator and R/R from Ricks. 2nd day air should get it to me on Monday. I'm not going to "hard wire" the new stator in. I might try using those "butt connectors," one per line and shrink wrap them once assembled. That should be better than the loose modular connector (no that I have the R/R side on my current R/R), but it would allow me to disconnect the stator from the R/R by simply cutting open the heat shrink and unplugging if need be instead of cutting the wire outright or finding a soldering gun to undo the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I just got a replacement stator and R/R from Ricks. 2nd day air should get it to me on Monday. I'm not going to "hard wire" the new stator in. I might try using those "butt connectors," one per line and shrink wrap them once assembled. That should be better than the loose modular connector (no that I have the R/R side on my current R/R), but it would allow me to disconnect the stator from the R/R by simply cutting open the heat shrink and unplugging if need be instead of cutting the wire outright or finding a soldering gun to undo the connections. The modular connector probably has more contact area than those round bullet style push-together connectors, if that's what you're talking about. The better the connection, the less heat, the less chance of failure, etc. That's why straight solder connection are the best, if you have the capability to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 I just got a replacement stator and R/R from Ricks. 2nd day air should get it to me on Monday. I'm not going to "hard wire" the new stator in. I might try using those "butt connectors," one per line and shrink wrap them once assembled. That should be better than the loose modular connector (no that I have the R/R side on my current R/R), but it would allow me to disconnect the stator from the R/R by simply cutting open the heat shrink and unplugging if need be instead of cutting the wire outright or finding a soldering gun to undo the connections. The modular connector probably has more contact area than those round bullet style push-together connectors, if that's what you're talking about. The better the connection, the less heat, the less chance of failure, etc. That's why straight solder connection are the best, if you have the capability to do so. I agree, and if the two parts come with matching connectors, I'd probably use them (didn't think of that earlier). But if they don't, I don't think I want to straight solder again....no easy way to disconnect and reconnect for testing without a solder gun in my tool bag. Any thought on using the existing R/R? Would a failing stator damage the R/R? I'm getting one to be safe, but I don't know whether to save the new one for later, change it and save the current one as a replacement or just put on the new one and chuck the current one. I don't see much of anything for testing for damage to an R/R other than seeing if it lets the bike charge properly. However, just as the stator tested 100% perfectly and then failed without any warning while on a long trip, the same could be so with an R/R, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I just got a replacement stator and R/R from Ricks. 2nd day air should get it to me on Monday. I'm not going to "hard wire" the new stator in. I might try using those "butt connectors," one per line and shrink wrap them once assembled. That should be better than the loose modular connector (no that I have the R/R side on my current R/R), but it would allow me to disconnect the stator from the R/R by simply cutting open the heat shrink and unplugging if need be instead of cutting the wire outright or finding a soldering gun to undo the connections. The modular connector probably has more contact area than those round bullet style push-together connectors, if that's what you're talking about. The better the connection, the less heat, the less chance of failure, etc. That's why straight solder connection are the best, if you have the capability to do so. I agree, and if the two parts come with matching connectors, I'd probably use them (didn't think of that earlier). But if they don't, I don't think I want to straight solder again....no easy way to disconnect and reconnect for testing without a solder gun in my tool bag. Any thought on using the existing R/R? Would a failing stator damage the R/R? I'm getting one to be safe, but I don't know whether to save the new one for later, change it and save the current one as a replacement or just put on the new one and chuck the current one. I don't see much of anything for testing for damage to an R/R other than seeing if it lets the bike charge properly. However, just as the stator tested 100% perfectly and then failed without any warning while on a long trip, the same could be so with an R/R, right? FWIW how many times do you plan to test your R/R ans stator? with an inline volt meter there is no need to test anything unless you have a problem. Solder the damn wires and be done with them. When my stator went 4 yrs ago and 20K miles ago I rode home from WV like that and I am currently using the same R/R with no issues. Fully loaded I put out 14.2 volts at just over idle. As Joe said the better the connection the less heat produced the less chances of failure in the future. Those push together connectors tend to corrode and generate heat.. Heat is very bad!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 FWIW how many times do you plan to test your R/R ans stator? with an inline volt meter there is no need to test anything unless you have a problem. Solder the damn wires and be done with them. Any time I have to change the battery or if something happens that makes me question if there is a malfunction. Since you have to disconnect the stator to test it, I need a connection that can be undone. I'd hate to desolder wires and then resolder them every time I change a battery. FWIW, I've been told it is wise to inspect connections and check the stator every time a new battery is installed. This ensures when a battery dies it was just the battery and not something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 FWIW how many times do you plan to test your R/R ans stator? with an inline volt meter there is no need to test anything unless you have a problem. Solder the damn wires and be done with them. Any time I have to change the battery or if something happens that makes me question if there is a malfunction. Since you have to disconnect the stator to test it, I need a connection that can be undone. I'd hate to desolder wires and then resolder them every time I change a battery. FWIW, I've been told it is wise to inspect connections and check the stator every time a new battery is installed. This ensures when a battery dies it was just the battery and not something else. You can test the stator at the plug going to the reg/rec.....they are the same 3 yellow wires. You're really making this harder than it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Mike if you have an Inline volt meter that reads voltage output on a daily basis and reads good volts then if the battery goes dead you kinda know it is not the charging system. Like Hank said just unplug the R/R and test it there. Stop making such a project out of this simple repair!!!! Just fix the Fucking thing already. Wtf no wonder you don't pick up on when women flirt with you your very thick in the head!!! This can't get any simpler!!!! Then again it sounds like you are just tring to talk yourself into a new bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Mike if you have an Inline volt meter that reads voltage output on a daily basis and reads good volts then if the battery goes dead you kinda know it is not the charging system. Like Hank said just unplug the R/R and test it there. Stop making such a project out of this simple repair!!!! Just fix the Fucking thing already. Wtf no wonder you don't pick up on when women flirt with you your very thick in the head!!! This can't get any simpler!!!! Then again it sounds like you are just tring to talk yourself into a new bike. Actually, I'm not. HOW am I to test voltage output of a stator (unplugged) if I hard wire it to the R/R? There are no terminals to attach to. Plugs are gone. Wires are soldered together and sealed in shrink wrap. Now, if you connect the stator to the R/R with terminal connectors, you just have to unplug the stator wires to test, then reconnect them when you're done. Or is there some 3rd way I'm missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Copied from your "Advice" thread in the pub: I can get you a Rick's stator for ~$115, and a Ricks RR for ~$87, plus actual shipping. If it were me, I'd go OEM on the RR, and you'll also need to order a stator cover gasket. In the end, for under $250, you'll have a running bike you know and love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Mike if you have an Inline volt meter that reads voltage output on a daily basis and reads good volts then if the battery goes dead you kinda know it is not the charging system. Like Hank said just unplug the R/R and test it there. Stop making such a project out of this simple repair!!!! Just fix the Fucking thing already. Wtf no wonder you don't pick up on when women flirt with you your very thick in the head!!! This can't get any simpler!!!! Then again it sounds like you are just tring to talk yourself into a new bike. Actually, I'm not. HOW am I to test voltage output of a stator (unplugged) if I hard wire it to the R/R? There are no terminals to attach to. Plugs are gone. Wires are soldered together and sealed in shrink wrap. Now, if you connect the stator to the R/R with terminal connectors, you just have to unplug the stator wires to test, then reconnect them when you're done. Or is there some 3rd way I'm missing? Ok heres an idea or two. A) wire your voltmeter into the stator. wire in a test port................. edit I havee no idea if this will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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