silverbird1100 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Everytime my chain is wearing out I think something is wrong with the tranny or clutch. Then I put on a new set and the damn bike feels like it did when I took it home the first day. I have been buying the cheapest sets available but started wondering, since it is such a vital component, if paying top dollar for a chain and sprockets will make the bike even smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Everytime my chain is wearing out I think something is wrong with the tranny or clutch. Then I put on a new set and the damn bike feels like it did when I took it home the first day. I have been buying the cheapest sets available but started wondering, since it is such a vital component, if paying top dollar for a chain and sprockets will make the bike even smoother. Yes and no. I always buy an X-ring chain. I've stuck with DID just because, but I'm not sure how much "cheaper" competitor's chains can be. Certainly, I shop around for the best price on a chain. That said.... I'm not sure the top of the line chain is what you need. Those are made for stressful applications like racing. A baseline X-ring chain is pretty tough and holds up better than most O-ring chains. Of course, cleaning, lubing and proper adjustment goes far to adding life to the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I'm not sure the top of the line chain is what you need. Those are made for stressful applications like racing. Dude, you're doing it again. Cut it out. Silverbird, ignore Zero. He's a guy who likes posting his misinformed opinions like they were facts. I think he thinks if he sounds confident enough it will make him correct. First things first- what chain have you been buying and what kind of mileage are you seeing? What maintenance schedule? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I think the biggest difference between a cheap chain and a good one is how long it lasts before it starts making noise and/or needing to be replaced. A good quality chain and frequent oiling will last a LONG time. I have about 20,000Km's on my chain and will likely need to be replaced in another 5-10,000Km. Zero pretty much has it backwards, most of the guys I know who race don't use X ring, or O ring chains. They run cheaper chains that are just as strong but need replace them often apparently the chains without the O rings have less resistance. Racers are usually looking for any advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I'm not sure the top of the line chain is what you need. Those are made for stressful applications like racing. Dude, you're doing it again. Cut it out. Fine. I'm wrong...again. Point is, I see some outlandishly expensive x-ring chains. You don't need to spend $$$ for those. For whatever they claim to offer, I doubt the cost/benefit ratio is worth it. The baseline X-ring chains last a long time with proper maintenance and are a better investment than those overpriced versions out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I'm not sure the top of the line chain is what you need. Those are made for stressful applications like racing. Dude, you're doing it again. Cut it out. Fine. I'm wrong...again. For whatever they claim to offer, I doubt the cost/benefit ratio is worth it. The baseline X-ring chains last a long time with proper maintenance and are a better investment than those overpriced versions out there. You doubt or you have actually run cheaper vs beefier built chains on XX and can make facts based comparison ??? Because some people here have done just that and top of the line chain like ZVM2 provides best per miles value. Once again you come across as an idiot on technical matters who tries very hard to play an expert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I'm not sure the top of the line chain is what you need. Those are made for stressful applications like racing. Dude, you're doing it again. Cut it out. Fine. I'm wrong...again. Point is, I see some outlandishly expensive x-ring chains. You don't need to spend $$$ for those. For whatever they claim to offer, I doubt the cost/benefit ratio is worth it. The baseline X-ring chains last a long time with proper maintenance and are a better investment than those overpriced versions out there. Mate, You need to buy the best that you can afford the price difference between a cheap chain and a decent one isn't even worth worrying about. Ever had a chain break while your riding? It'll give you religion right away. I'll try a lot of different things that are cheaper, chain and sprockets aint one of them. While on the subject The pro-oiler is the best thing I have ever purchased for the bike it has extended the life of the chain and I don't have to worry about the lube. 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Man, you guys are harsh today. I think what Zeronetgain is trying to say is that the longevity of a drive chain is more a result of oiling and proper maintenance than how much you pay for it. Which doesn't really need to be said in this crowd, but...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Man, you guys are harsh today. I think what Zeronetgain is trying to say is that the longevity of a drive chain is more a result of oiling and proper maintenance than how much you pay for it. Which doesn't really need to be said in this crowd, but...... That's what I thought I said. I've always bought DID. Always had the X-Ring on the XX. Shop around for the best price? Always. But IIRC, I've seen different types of DID X-Rings on sale, and really, if it's a DID X-Ring, it's good enough. The more expensive versions I have to ask what you are getting for paying almost $50 more or even double with some merchants. I've not tried other makes just because I know DID makes very good quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Man, you guys are harsh today. I think what Zeronetgain is trying to say is that the longevity of a drive chain is more a result of oiling and proper maintenance than how much you pay for it. Which doesn't really need to be said in this crowd, but...... That's what I thought I said. That is what you said- right after you said something totally unrelated that was completely wrong. It's also a bit of a habit with you- taking a wild ass guesses and then posting them like they're facts. It's not like I live to jump down your throat every time you post erroneous info, but there's any number of people that read this forum looking for advice. God forbid some of them are less informed than even you and believe some of the crap you occasionally spout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 I've been buying a $100 regina o-ring from my local performance shop. They haven't been lasting for shit and can usually only take 1 trip from Colorado to California before developing a tight spot that gets worse and worse and eventually make a shit load of racket before 10,000 miles. I've wondered if my rear wheel isn't off center because even when the chain is brand new there's always a point in the 360 degree rotation that the slack get considerably tighter. Makes it very difficult to get proper slack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Man, you guys are harsh today. I think what Zeronetgain is trying to say is that the longevity of a drive chain is more a result of oiling and proper maintenance than how much you pay for it. Which doesn't really need to be said in this crowd, but...... That's what I thought I said. God forbid some of them are even less informed than even you and believe some of the crap you occasionally rather often spout. FIFY. zero is polluting Garage with technical nonsense . All thing being equal ,maintenance , methods of lubrication ,cleaning , etc. , premium chain will last much longer. I`d say 1.5-2 times longer. In case of DID basic X-ring that fits XX would be 530 VM ,premium - 530 ZVM-X ( I think ZVM2 was replaced by that ). Silverbird1100 , I`m definitely not that anal on chain maintenance but I`ve been repeatedly getting 25-30 k miles from top of the line DID chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I've been buying a $100 regina o-ring from my local performance shop. They haven't been lasting for shit and can usually only take 1 trip from Colorado to California before developing a tight spot that gets worse and worse and eventually make a shit load of racket before 10,000 miles. I've wondered if my rear wheel isn't off center because even when the chain is brand new there's always a point in the 360 degree rotation that the slack get considerably tighter. Makes it very difficult to get proper slack. When you say 360 degree rotation, is that for the wheel, front sprocket, or the whole chain? Did you put on new sprockets with that new chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 I've been buying a $100 regina o-ring from my local performance shop. They haven't been lasting for shit and can usually only take 1 trip from Colorado to California before developing a tight spot that gets worse and worse and eventually make a shit load of racket before 10,000 miles. I've wondered if my rear wheel isn't off center because even when the chain is brand new there's always a point in the 360 degree rotation that the slack get considerably tighter. Makes it very difficult to get proper slack. When you say 360 degree rotation, is that for the wheel, front sprocket, or the whole chain? Did you put on new sprockets with that new chain? Always new chain with the sprockets, and everytime you spin the rear wheel 360 degrees, there will be one significant tight and loose spot that gets worse and worse as the chain gets old and eventally destroys it. I feel like the hub isn't perfectly center and it constantly fucks with the slack. I don't know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I've been buying a $100 regina o-ring from my local performance shop. They haven't been lasting for shit and can usually only take 1 trip from Colorado to California before developing a tight spot that gets worse and worse and eventually make a shit load of racket before 10,000 miles. I've wondered if my rear wheel isn't off center because even when the chain is brand new there's always a point in the 360 degree rotation that the slack get considerably tighter. Makes it very difficult to get proper slack. When you say 360 degree rotation, is that for the wheel, front sprocket, or the whole chain? Did you put on new sprockets with that new chain? Always new chain with the sprockets, and everytime you spin the rear wheel 360 degrees, there will be one significant tight and loose spot that gets worse and worse as the chain gets old and eventally destroys it. I feel like the hub isn't perfectly center and it constantly fucks with the slack. I don't know... You had it too tight and when you hit a big bump it stretched all but, what was around the rear sprocket. Done it.. Need more slack new and you are more than likely have to much sag. Or weigh a bunch.. I hate slack, and tend to make it tight, You need to check the slack with all your weight on the bike. Not easy, need someone to hold the bike up... I don't.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I adore my Pro-Oiler! 81,000km on the original OEM chain/sprockets, still not at the adjust limit and no tight spots either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Just a comment - if you have shimmed your back shock, you need a lot more than the spec slack on the chain. If you set it to the suggested play with a shim installed you WILL get a stretched chain. Don't ask me why I know Expensive lessons.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Last set I changed lasted about 45 000 km or 27 000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Ah ha! The bike is lower about an inch front and back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Ah ha! The bike is lower about an inch front and back... Lowered shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Ah ha! The bike is lower about an inch front and back... Lowered shouldn't be a problem. Damn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 My bird came with a base model chain w/o o-rings. I TORE that thing up in 2k miles. Destroyed it. Replaced with the OEM DID. Life has been good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 The CBR1100XX has a chain? I was told it had a belt drive like a Buell when I got it 3 yrs ago. Crud.....you think my chain needs to be cleaned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 The CBR1100XX has a chain? I was told it had a belt drive like a Buell when I got it 3 yrs ago. Crud.....you think my chain needs to be cleaned? Did that to my first bike. Newbie and all with no experience of bikes. First time I glanced at the chain it was red with rust It didn't help much with lubricating after that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welditup Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 So what is the proper slack adjustment (on a new chain) when using a 6mm shim? I have a New DID on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.