Zero Knievel Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 The manual says.... "Turn the cam chain tensioner lifter shaft fully and secure it using the mechanic's tensioner stopper tool (page 8-6)." I got to this step and was dumbfounded. Put in a flathead and tried to turn it clockwise (left). Turned maybe a 1/4 turn before I couldn't make it go any farther. Pull out the screwdriver and nothing happens. Tried turning right, which was loosening tension on the thing, so I stopped and turned left again. I can't figure out what exactly the manual is telling me to do or how to know if I've done it correctly. I presume I don't remove the CCT because the manual does not say to remove it. Advice from those who've done their own valve clearance inspections? FWIW, I don't have the "tensioner stopper tool." *EDIT* On page "8-8" (not 8-6), in the section for "camshaft removal," it says.... "Turn the tensioner lifter shaft fully in (clockwise) and secure it using the stopper tool." It also shows how to fabricate one with 1mm thick metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. I would think so too, but the manual says to do this for inspection. Since I've already messed with the CCT a little, I wonder what do I do to put it back to normal if I'm not supposed to do anything to it for inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. I would think so too, but the manual says to do this for inspection. Since I've already messed with the CCT a little, I wonder what do I do to put it back to normal if I'm not supposed to do anything to it for inspection? Leave the tensioner in and rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation. The tensioner is self adjusting. You can then check clearances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. I would think so too, but the manual says to do this for inspection. Since I've already messed with the CCT a little, I wonder what do I do to put it back to normal if I'm not supposed to do anything to it for inspection? Leave the tensioner in and rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation. The tensioner is self adjusting. You can then check clearances. So, do nothing with the CCT? Might as well ask...what happens if you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise? What function does the screw inside the CCT serve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. I would think so too, but the manual says to do this for inspection. Since I've already messed with the CCT a little, I wonder what do I do to put it back to normal if I'm not supposed to do anything to it for inspection? Leave the tensioner in and rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation. The tensioner is self adjusting. You can then check clearances. So, do nothing with the CCT? Might as well ask...what happens if you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise? What function does the screw inside the CCT serve? by screwing with it you will let the genie out of the box and will be easier for you to gain your virginity back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 My guess is that's a step to remove the cams to exchange shims. I wouldn't touch the tensioner when just checking valve clearances... You have to rotate the engine and the chain needs to be tensioned when doing do. I would think so too, but the manual says to do this for inspection. Since I've already messed with the CCT a little, I wonder what do I do to put it back to normal if I'm not supposed to do anything to it for inspection? Leave the tensioner in and rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation. The tensioner is self adjusting. You can then check clearances. So, do nothing with the CCT? Might as well ask...what happens if you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise? What function does the screw inside the CCT serve? by screwing with it you will let the genie out of the box and will be easier for you to gain your virginity back. or loose it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 the cct is a spring loaded screw, and resist pressure due to the nature of the ACME threaded rod. Turning counter clockwise shortens the rod against the spring that puts pressure on the chain guide. But not much pressure. And the threads prevents it from releasing the pressure on the chain. So when you turn the motor in the correct direction at the crank, the chain gets slack on the cct side, and the slack is taken up by the spring pressure on the rod and will not release the slack due to the resistance of the threaded rod. If you turn the rod clockwise it will over tighten the pressure on the guide, and not relieve, causing wear on the guide. In Texan speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 So, if I use what I found as any indication of the original settings.... I turn the CCT screw counter-clockwise to take the load off. When done, turn fully clockwise then back it off about 1/4 turn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 So, if I use what I found as any indication of the original settings.... There is no "original settings",the tensioner is self adjusting. There is absolutly no need to remove it,or even to look at that when checking out the valve clearance.Absolutly unnesessary work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 So, if I use what I found as any indication of the original settings.... There is no "original settings",the tensioner is self adjusting. There is absolutly no need to remove it,or even to look at that when checking out the valve clearance.Absolutly unnesessary work. Since I'm curious, WHY does the manual say to do this then? Or is this section of the manual ASSUMING you're going to have to make adjustments after doing the inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 You're really making this seem harder than it is... Who knows why that was written? You have the answers to proceed... It's OK to...really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 So, if I use what I found as any indication of the original settings.... There is no "original settings",the tensioner is self adjusting. There is absolutly no need to remove it,or even to look at that when checking out the valve clearance.Absolutly unnesessary work. Since I'm curious, WHY does the manual say to do this then? Or is this section of the manual ASSUMING you're going to have to make adjustments after doing the inspection? I think this is a valid assumption. :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 Well, after a month or so, I finally checked the valve clearances. All are good. Funny thing is that the #3 piston has once valve on both the IN and EX side (across from each other) that's barely in spec (not enough to justify adjustments), but IIRC the guy who sold me the bike had the valve clearances checked and said something about one of them being that way. That was back when there was only 17K on the odometer. Ironically, #3 was also the cylinder that read the lowest compression when I tested it. Now for the fun of getting the valve cover back on without the gasket falling out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Well, after a month or so, I finally checked the valve clearances. All are good. Funny thing is that the #3 piston has once valve on both the IN and EX side (across from each other) that's barely in spec (not enough to justify adjustments), but IIRC the guy who sold me the bike had the valve clearances checked and said something about one of them being that way. That was back when there was only 17K on the odometer. Ironically, #3 was also the cylinder that read the lowest compression when I tested it. Now for the fun of getting the valve cover back on without the gasket falling out. Never mind. Saw your other thread. Tomek has it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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