Anyone use automotive oil vs motorcycle oil

[BarryG]

Been using Castrol automotive 10w-40 full synth in the XX for almost 3yrs now. None burns between changes and XX runs great. Do it b/c I don't feel like paying $11/qt for mcycle oil.

Does anyone else do this or is motorcycle oil recommended. I'm sure there are many opinions on this subject but just wondering if others put auto oil in the bike or not?

I put the same oil in my SV but it seems to be burning oil so may try mcycle oil in it.

[ironmike]

Yeah, Royal Purple (full-syn) 10w-40 or 20w-50 dependent upon seasonal weather in the Deep South. I've used it in all my bikes and never had an issue. I generally will use Mobil 1 in my cars (2 G35s, Audi Quattro) and damn near anything in my '84 E250 - it's not too picky. I do 100% of the maintenance.

[blackhawkxx]

I have never used motorcycle oil ever in any bike. I never had any trouble or changed a clutch but I choose my auto oil carefully. Wouldn't throw just any oil in there.

[Biometrix]

Not to intentionally hijack this thread but oil threads kill me. Not so much on this site because everyone here is pretty much laid back and is just as interested in tits and guns and Dave's new interest of the week.

But man, ask an oil question on another M/C site and all hell breaks loose. I think because changing the oil is just about the easiest thing you can do on a bike, everybody has an opinion. Some are quite fanatical about how often they change it and what kind to use...blah blah blah. I think most spend WAAAAYY too much time thinking about it.

So in the spirit of your question here is what my opinion is. Dirty oil is bad and clean oil is good. I have run both non M/C dino oil as well as stupid expensive Amsoil and the like in my bikes.

For the FJR I started out with Shell Rotella 15W40 dino and then switched to Amsoil just to see if it would smooth out the shifting a bit (it did). I wouldn't use any super cheap oil but I figure as long as I stick with a name brand I'm ok. Just don't use any oil marked "energy conserving" on a wet clutch bike as that could cause clutch slippage.

I agree that there is probably not a lot of real benefit with a M/C specific oil and in fact have seen some tests where the manufacturer branded stuff like Yamalube and Honda oils really are quite crappy. If I dared post something like that on another forum, this thread would go 14 pages at least. :icon_silenced:

[The Krypt Keeper]

Shell Rotella 5w-40 or whatever in the blue jug at walmart.

been using it for 15k miles or so, I change my oil every 2-3k miles.

[Furbird]

I mostly stick to Rotella myself, but I was diehard Mobil 1 back in the day. Unfortunately, Mobil can't seem to leave well enough alone and keeps changing their formula, so I can't keep up with what's wet clutch safe anymore. I bet I have 5 or 6 gallons of Rotella in the shop now and umpteen oil filters, not a single one of which says Honda anywhere on it.

[Zero Knievel]

Generic car oil = bad.

For a long time, a lot of bad stuff was allowed in common oil that made going full-synthetic (regardless of maker) a smart move.

Today, I'm not sure what to say. Full-synthetic car oil would likely do fine for motorcycles. I still prefer my AMSOIL, but I run AMSOIL in my truck as well.

I'd not use common car oil in any performance motorcycle motor....just for the issue of how well it'd handle the stress or some of the additives not being good for the long-term health of the motor.

[jcrich]

Not to intentionally hijack this thread but oil threads kill me. Not so much on this site because everyone here is pretty much laid back and is just as interested in tits and guns and Dave's new interest of the week.

But man, ask an oil question on another M/C site and all hell breaks loose. I think because changing the oil is just about the easiest thing you can do on a bike, everybody has an opinion. Some are quite fanatical about how often they change it and what kind to use...blah blah blah. I think most spend WAAAAYY too much time thinking about it.

So in the spirit of your question here is what my opinion is. Dirty oil is bad and clean oil is good. I have run both non M/C dino oil as well as stupid expensive Amsoil and the like in my bikes.

For the FJR I started out with Shell Rotella 15W40 dino and then switched to Amsoil just to see if it would smooth out the shifting a bit (it did). I wouldn't use any super cheap oil but I figure as long as I stick with a name brand I'm ok. Just don't use any oil marked "energy conserving" on a wet clutch bike as that could cause clutch slippage.

I agree that there is probably not a lot of real benefit with a M/C specific oil and in fact have seen some tests where the manufacturer branded stuff like Yamalube and Honda oils really are quite crappy. If I dared post something like that on another forum, this thread would go 14 pages at least. :icon_silenced:

You have not been around long enough.

[The Krypt Keeper]

I mostly stick to Rotella myself, but I was diehard Mobil 1 back in the day. Unfortunately, Mobil can't seem to leave well enough alone and keeps changing their formula, so I can't keep up with what's wet clutch safe anymore. I bet I have 5 or 6 gallons of Rotella in the shop now and umpteen oil filters, not a single one of which says Honda anywhere on it.

Yep I got several WIX filters downstairs for the XX.. I get them for $5 each from our parts guy at work. Not a bad deal since he also delivers them straight to me also.

[EVLXX]

I've never bought Motorcycle specific oil...... ever............... and never will.

[tomek]

I have purchased m-cycle spec oil but it wuz for the track bike,so it does not count.

Maxima Ultra 0w/30,I shit you not,it does give noticeable top end powah increase.It brakes down incredibly fast,2-3 days on the track and shifting quality goes down to the toilet.

On the other end my 160 K miles XX has never seen mcycle oil,and never will.

[blackhawkxx]

On the other end my 160 K miles XX has never seen mcycle oil,and never will.

Now there it is. If he can go 160,000 miles (and still going) on car oil, why worry about it?

[Zero Knievel]

On the other end my 160 K miles XX has never seen mcycle oil,and never will.

Now there it is. If he can go 160,000 miles (and still going) on car oil, why worry about it?

The question is what condition his motor is in ON THE INSIDE.

Lots of decent oils will let a motor go over 100K, but some do a lot more protection to the inner workings than others. The more you protect the inside (not just friction reduction), the longer your motor will last...period.

[Warp11XX]

I can't recall ever posting in an oil thread :icon_think:, so here is my contribution surely worth every penny you paid for it...

Never used synthetic in anything, yet.

I've used both conventional Valvoline 10W40-MC-4-stroke and 10W40 GN-4 in my XX. I've exclusively switched to GN-4 conventional for the foreseeable future. Protection factor with both is great. Valvoline noticeably decreases rev speed over the entire rpm range. It is very slight, but positively present. Using both oils, there were no shifting issues ever with on average 4K changes. Always a Honda filter. I don't thrash it anyway, so not really a factor I'm guessing. Just under 50K miles now and climbing. No oil between changes added. Never smokes that I've seen or been told. Everything in spec by the book (added PCIII and 4-2-1 out of the box) with no adjustments so far other than driveline wear parts. Dyno mapped at 135 bhp and 79 ft-lb with sorry airflow and muggy temps.

Now, this is the "testimonial" part. I have this little thumper 400 ATV that catches absolute hell. Arctic Cat 4X4 manual tranny with a might as well be Suzuki water cooled motor. It has spent it's entire 4K+ mile life dragging between 350 and 1000 lb. loads at very low speeds on steep slopes and rough terrain. I use it pulling a finish mower in boiling temps in the summer. In fall it gets to pull trailers loaded with firewood and/or mountain rocks occasionally. In winter it is both our plow and our daily transportation from the point where the trucks get stuck to our home. The oil truly gets thrashed between changes. It has had maybe 6 oil changes in it's life with whatever filter I can find at the time...I try to get Arctic Cat but have used *cringe* STP a couple times. No clutch slippage so far. The oil always used...??? Castrol 10W40 off the shelf from WallyWorld. This thing never needs oil added, never smokes, runs like new. Poor things bodywork looks like Iraqi surplus, but that's another story.

I also put 82K miles on my original 900F motor before it was removed and stored. Still ran like a bat out of hell, but smoked quite a bit under hard accel and went through a quart of 20W50 Castrol in about 500 miles. I think it was both rings and valveguides, but we'll see someday. Being air cooled makes that a pretty good attaboy for Castrol I think. It didn't use much oil at all until after it reached 55K.

Is car oil okay? Probably....

[RXX]

I use motorcycle oil in my motorcycle engine. I have around 52K on my bike. I change my oil every 8000 to 10000 miles, so I have changed my oil (50,000-2500 = 49,500 / 8000 or 10000)=maybe 6 times.

So what....... maybe $300? Fuck, wifey spends that much on her lunches every month. $300? Fuck, that's chump change over 5 years.

Not that it matters. Oil.