John's Bike Bits Vista Cruise

[Zero Knievel]

Well, I made some progress then hit a wall.

Re-reading the instructions, I see you are supposed to remove that little ridge on the throttle sleeve (see pics). It took some time working carefully with a Dremmel, mat knife and 4000 grit sandpaper, but I got it done.

Then, I used a Dremmel and mat knife to cut away the excess from the Vista as detailed in the Jaws install guide.

I've sold over 200 and fitted about 75 of these to Blackbirds.

Please note: DO NOT Dremel anything on the bike, you ONLY need to Dremel the Vista (like in the pictures of Evelakes).

Well, the Jaws instructions indicated that that ridge on the throttle sleeve had to come of, so it's gone now. Why the control housing isn't perfectly perpendicular to the sleeve is a major ??? in my book. With that minor ridge in place, the Vista would not go on.

Once I get the VFR bars in, I expect with a spot of clear adhesive, I can mount the Vista with no problems. The heated grips are already too long by 1/2 inch (recommended kit is 5.25" and the other option is 4.75"). I might get the kit for the shorter bars which should fit properly. I was already using spacers to just to make the Throttlemeister fit on with the existing heated grips.

[Zero Knievel]

Semi-WOOT!

Got the VFR bars in today. Saw the charge come through on the company card. Called the salvage yard to see when they shipped, and they happened to show up today. Cleaned them up and test fitted them. Gotta drop the front end (raise the fork tubes) about 1/8" so the retaining ring slot clears the new collars.

[Zero Knievel]

Well, the drama so far.

Got the VFR bars on. Had to drop the front end about 1/8". Loosened the top bolts then tightened them just enough. Loosened the bottom bolts. Carefully took some tension off the top bolts then used a hammer and block of wood to drop the front a bit at a time until the locking ring groove appeared. Tightened it all back up.

Once the bars were on, had to check for fit. No issue on the clutch side (likely because of the new lines). Throttle side was a pain. Tight fit. Had to Dremmel the tab off the master cylinder so the banjo bolt could face more forward to reduce tension. Also loosened the base of the throttle cables so they could reposition better.

Because the positioning tab on the clutch side switch housing broke off (not shown), I have to drill a hole and find something to put in to serve that purpose. Honda really should have done as it is on the throttle side....using a metal post.

I ordered new (shorter) heated grips. They arrive Monday. I'll see what works better, what I have or the shorter grips and mount the set I like better.

[Zero Knievel]

More unfolding drama, but getting closer.

Today, my dad fabricated a new metal post for the clutch side switch housing. Took a pop rivet, cut it to size, then used a power drill and sandpaper to "lathe" it to the right thickness on the part to go into the plastic housing. Used two tiny drill bits to make a pilot hole then tapped it in. It's in tight, so it won't come out. Better than a nub of plastic that's prone to crack off.

To get it out to work on the bench was a pain. No instructions in the shop manual how to take stuff out, and the horn button was the biggest pain to pull out and put back in, but I eventually got it done WITHOUT breaking anything (yay me ).

Now that I got things almost back together (heated grips are last), I'm still having issues with the Vista Cruise.

The pics show how it fits now. I've adjusted it and it works good (so it appears) as it is now. A dab of adhesive silicone at the throttle cables would hold it firm so it doesn't move at all, but I thought others suggested Dremmeling the Vista so it fits better up against the switch housing. I can see how it's not a perfectly even fit, but the place where I'd think to "shave" off some plastic on the Vista is at what appears to be one of the thinner parts on the device already.

Look at the pics. Make suggestions, please.

[Para045]

Because the positioning tab on the clutch side switch housing broke off (not shown), I have to drill a hole and find something to put in to serve that purpose.

Yep I did that on mine when I fitted my VFR bars :icon_wall:

Today, my dad fabricated a new metal post for the clutch side switch housing. Took a pop rivet, cut it to size, then used a power drill and sandpaper to "lathe" it to the right thickness on the part to go into the plastic housing. Used two tiny drill bits to make a pilot hole then tapped it in. It's in tight, so it won't come out. Better than a nub of plastic that's prone to crack off.

I recently fixed mine, what I did was get a really small screw (for piano hinge) :icon_think: , drill where the plastic spigot had been and screw in the screw .

THEN what I did was take the screw out and grind under the head on the cnr of a grinding wheel so that it was only just holding and then screwed it back in, snapped off the head and filed the rest smooth

Works great, it had been a real pain because as mine is a carbed bike, ever time I moved the choke lever the switch housing rotated :icon_duh:

[Zero Knievel]

Works great, it had been a real pain because as mine is a carbed bike, ever time I moved the choke lever the switch housing rotated :icon_duh:

Rode my dad's Nighthawk 250 down the road and back for gas. He had shoulder surgery, so he's not riding it regularly.

Gad...fuel injection has spoiled me. Had to keep messing with the choke because I was probably halfway there before I could close it 100% with no engine issues.

[Para045]

Had to keep messing with the choke because I was probably halfway there before I could close it 100% with no engine issues.

The choke on my bike is pretty good actually, I flick it on full in really cold weather (well here anyway <8c), then let it run for a minute or 2 while I put my helmet and gloves on, then usually get on drop it to 3/4 and put her in gear and ride off then flick it off a couple of km's down the road :icon_think:

If the weather is warmer like over 15c then usually 1/2 choke is plenty and flick it off just after I ride away

[Zero Knievel]

A bump for any last-minute advice on mounting the Vista. I hope to have it done in the next day or so.

[willxx23]

A bump for any last-minute advice on mounting the Vista. I hope to have it done in the next day or so.

Dump the Vista and get an NEP.

[Zero Knievel]

Dump the Vista and get an NEP.

Well, it's a bit late for that now. :icon_wall:

Spent today wiring in the new heated grips (the ones that fit better). Used a glob of plastic weld on the Vista to rebuild the foot I cut a bit short. Let it harden overnight and trimmed it into a better fitting piece. Slapped on some black paint. Then I used a dab of clear silicone adhesive under the tab to ensure it will hold tight when put in position. Tomorrow, it should work perfectly with everything dried off. The silicone will hold tight but give if I want to remove it.

Just have to double check the grip positions and then epoxy those on. Secure up any slack in the wires then put the plastic bits back on. Pics to follow.

[RodeRash]

[Zero Knievel]

They don't work with heated grips. I should know...I just sold the ones I had.

I'm just about at wit's end here.

I put on the Vista Cruise. Tested it. It seemed to work well.

Today, I epoxy on the heated grips. Now it won't work. It either holds when on but binds when off (unacceptable) or it lets the throttle move freely but won't hold the throttle worth shit.

Needless to say, I can't reposition the grips now that the epoxy has hardened...not without a lot of work.

What am I doing wrong? :icon_think:

I'm thinking of putting a single strand of safety wire around the foot on the Vista to secure it along side the throttle cables. When I held it in place, it worked perfectly. Now that it's on its own, it's not working. An easy thing to test and see if it solves the problem.

[RodeRash]

Cruise Control

Make Your Own $1 throttle lock.

Buy a 1" diameter 3/16" rubber o-ring at your hardware store in the plumbing section. When you want to lock your throttle, put it between your bar end weight and your throttle grip. Otherwise roll it onto the bar end weight. You might need one or two 7/8" diameter 1/8" rubber o-rings also. If you don't have bar end weights, you can use a 1½" o-ring or a loop of clothes line between the throttle grip and the switch housing. Alternative: buy a large o-ring fromCaterpiller depending on the diameter of your handlebar weights. About $2. The silicone O-ring has better to UV resistance, the nitrile O-ring is a harder material that should wear better. Thanks to R.Cairns of OZ for the detailed info. Caterpiller 5.33mm O-Ring part numbers Diameter Silicon Nitrile

24.77mm 8M-5266 8B-4967

27.94mm 8M-4991 5H-7370

[Zero Knievel]

Well, here's where I'm at.

Once again put plastic weld on the foot and recut it to fit perfectly. I also used some galvanized steel wire and safety wired the Vista in place. This ensures it does not move at all, and it seems to work better. Maybe it just needs to be fiddled with until it breaks in and I find that "sweet spot" where it works right (or someone who knows more takes a look). For now, it's in place.

I also found that with the VFR bars, my control for the Pro-Oiler doesn't fit. I spent about 30 minutes wandering around Lowes to find something to rig up to solve the problem. I basically needed a block of metal to raise the surface I needed to attach to. I found some thick aluminum material. Figured I could cut it and layer it to make a block as needed. It took some time, but I sandwiched two strips together and glued them with metal-bonding epoxy. Attached that in place with a dab of clear silicone adhesive. Once that's nice and cured, I will bond the Velcro patch for the controller to the aluminum plate.

Just about had the bike back together when I discovered one of those nut/rubber grommet things broke on me. Gotta pick up a couple spares tomorrow in town. I should be able to test-ride the bike this weekend and see how the adjustments feel.

[Para045]

Once again put plastic weld on the foot and recut it to fit perfectly. I also used some galvanised steel wire and safety wired the Vista in place. This ensures it does not move at all, and it seems to work better. Maybe it just needs to be fiddled with until it breaks in and I find that "sweet spot" where it works right (or someone who knows more takes a look). For now, it's in place.

It could be that it just needs a little fiddling to get the correct tension as I took quite a while to get the "sweet spot" as you put it :icon_think: I also Loctited my adjuster screw to stop it coming loose after a while :icon_wall:

I also needed to put a bit of spray lube on the grip side initially to combat drag

No real need for the lug and wire on the front, just drill a hole and put a small screw (like piano hinge size) into the switchblock (there is actually already a small hole in the side )

[blackhawkxx]

Is all that trouble worth it? Would you have done it again?

[Zero Knievel]

Is all that trouble worth it? Would you have done it again?

I'll let you know once I get it working properly.

Since it works for others, I'm hoping this is more a matter of adjusting and breaking in the product to find the right setting as compared to Karma coming by with some KY to teach me a lesson.

I saw a sweet Throttlemeister-type device on some guy's bike (it was basically just a plastic cog that tightened against the grip). Worked in the same way but rather than be limited in turn, it could tighten a whole lot more and come completely loose. I think it worked perfectly, but I didn't ask where he got it from.

The heated grips are an inherent problem with Throttlemeister-type devices, but I think more of the issue is having the right length. If the end of the grip can flex and compress, nothing will tighten enough to hold it. You need rigidity inside the grip, and they guy who owned the XX before me put grips that were 1/2" too long. Even the shorter ones go about 1/4 inch past the bar's end, but when you put on the bar end weight, it goes in near perfect, so I suppose it's normal that way.

As far as how the VFR bars perform. I hope to find out tomorrow.

[The Krypt Keeper]

OK after watching this thread for a month and the horrors I have seen so far..

its a motorcycle

if hands are cold get a good pair of gloves or by a bmw if you want heated grips they will toss in the vagina required to ride it for free

cruise control?? again its a bike, either buy a car or get mentioned bmw with free vagina

That it all carry on..

[blackhawkxx]

This thread also reminds me why I also have a Wing. Once you use the factory cruise on the Wing, the music and the storage area, you find out how useful the bike is. It is so nice to go to the work or store and not have to carry anything. I used it to carry my Super Saws-All yesterday. Sorry for the high jack.

[vincer]

I installed one on my XX and used the drain hole to mount the tab. Now it is positioned perfectly. Some of the pics I've seen Here, make it look like it's out of reach?