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I can't beleive how easy it is to balance a tire!


Mikey

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So, I had to have my front tire balanced. It was BAD, I was bouncing around on the road when I got near 120km/h. Southern Ontario highway speeds average 120 and spike to 140 at times, so having my front end shake for my 2.5 hours of comute is not a realistic option...

So I drop by a repair shop. To take my front tire off and balance it, it cost me 50 bucks and wasn't perfectly smooth. Then the stick on weights only lasted a week. So frustrated I started shoping around for stick on weights. Found a place locally that sold the strips for a couple bucks so I picked up 10. Stuck the weights on the same spot the shop did and of course it still vibrated. So I tear the front tire off and pull out two jack stands. Originally I didn't use the axel, but a long bolt I had. That sucked. So I pop the axle in and spun the tire.... I could tell that it wanted to go back once it stopped so I knew it wasn't smooth enough spinning.... what to do.... Hey, i'll use the vibration against it.

So I willged the jack stand a bit and the tire settled.... I then spun, did the same thing, settled in the same spot. So I put some weithers 1.5oz on the opposite sid and spun... didn't settle in the same spot, spun again, setttled somewhere else entirely. So I pop it back on the rim and away I go. Total time? 10 minutes. Hardest item? Finding the stick on weights locally.

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This is the video that taught me how to. It was stressful at first but became easier and faster the second and third + times. I bought two sealed bearings from a local bearing supply house (<$8) and got a titanium rod from our precision maching teacher. I use auto jack stands instead of the lift he uses.

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So the rod is the same diameter as the axle and then it spins on the bearing set?

the shaft is fixed and the bearings will spin on it, I think you mean

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I bought the Marc Parnes bearing/cones/shaft set and am very pleased with it. What I've learned to do is when I am getting ready to balance a tire/wheel combination, I set it on the balancing stand and let the heavy part rotate to the bottom. Just to make sure, I'll rotate it about 90 degrees and let is settle again. Now take a piece of chalk and put a "V" on the sidewall of the tire, pointing straight down to the center of the axle/rod or whatever you are using to let the wheel assembly rotate freely.......and that is one significant thing to remember......it MUST rotate freely. Now, you are ready to balance the tire/wheel assembly. I always have old tire weights laying around (1/4 ounce.......7 gram), the stick on type. Take a piece of masking tape, 1 1/2" wide, and put a couple of the used weights on the inside part of the rim, exactly under where you put your chalk arrow. Rotate the tire about 90 degrees and see where it goes. If it goes back to where it was originally, you need to add some more weights. If the used weights go to the bottom, you have added too much weight. Once you find the correct amount of weights (you can cut one in two if need be and use a 1/2 weight piece), you are now ready to install some new weights. Oh, BTW, just in case you are not familiar with doing this, the way to tell when you tire/wheel is balanced, you can rotate the tire anywhere and it will not move or rotate. So, now you need to thoroughly clean the area where the weight(s) will be stuck to the wheel. Make sure that you use a cleaner that does NOT leave any residue or oily finish, as the weights will not stick very well and will eventually come off. Personally, I use an electrical contact cleaner (because that is what I have handy) but rubbing alcohol will do the same thing. Once it's clean and dry, stick your weights on and you are ready to go. I use nothing but Michelin tires, on the track bikes, the street bikes, and the ST1300, and a word here.......Michelin does NOT have a paint dot on the side of the tire which is usually indicitive of the heavy spot on the tire. The Michelins are very well made and usually very little balancing is required for them. Hope this helps anyone that is doing this for the first time, or maybe helps to clear up any questions that you may have about balancing tires. Most experts agree that a "static" balanced tire/wheel will always be closer to the perfect balance, than one that is done on a spin balancer that you will find at most motorcycle shops that do tires.

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So the rod is the same diameter as the axle and then it spins on the bearing set?

the shaft is fixed and the bearings will spin on it, I think you mean

No, not really. According to the video, he had bearings on the shaft on the outside ends. The only purpose of that would be to let the shaft spin. My wheel bearings on my bike are not slick enough to let it completely free spin, that's why I was thinking you let the shaft spin.

Vern, good info there. As soon as I get this shaft spinny thing worked out, I'll be using your weight/tape/V suggestions.

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So the rod is the same diameter as the axle and then it spins on the bearing set?

the shaft is fixed and the bearings will spin on it, I think you mean

No, not really. According to the video, he had bearings on the shaft on the outside ends. The only purpose of that would be to let the shaft spin. My wheel bearings on my bike are not slick enough to let it completely free spin, that's why I was thinking you let the shaft spin.

Vern, good info there. As soon as I get this shaft spinny thing worked out, I'll be using your weight/tape/V suggestions.

I did not look at the video, but your right if it is that way, sorry. I would only add that the grease in a bearing and the seals are a drag, and if I was going to do this I would eliminate those problems in my setup. Some bearings have metal seals and don't drag like rubber seals. And some bearings have a low drag lubricant.

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I did not look at the video, but your right if it is that way, sorry. I would only add that the grease in a bearing and the seals are a drag, and if I was going to do this I would eliminate those problems in my setup. Some bearings have metal seals and don't drag like rubber seals. And some bearings have a low drag lubricant.

That's the whole point of the Parnes balancer -- the entire shaft (and mountng cones) and wheel turn together on the extremely low-drag bearings at the ends of the shaft.

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Yah but that balancer is 100 bucks. I'm trying to see what I can make at home. I'm thinking that a threaded rod same diameter as my axel, then bolts and huge washers to hold the tire, bearings on both ends. Might do it.

Too bad I din't know any machinists.... wait a sec.... I think I might!

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OH FOR CHRIST'S SAKE... :icon_doh:

methinks there are too many bored, overanalyzing, overthinking, overdesigning engineers here.

post-3344-1248226573.jpgpost-3344-1248226562.jpgpost-3344-1248226548.jpg

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HEY!!!! :icon_redface:

:icon_biggrin:

In a perfect world I guess the rod would be the same diameter of the axle. My rod is smaller than the hole (left wide open for all you smart-asses out there) but it still rotates freely and smoothly (again left open) and I can use it to balance any tire now. Think of it as reduction gearing. :icon_cool:

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You can get more simple than the jack stand method. I just put the whole wheel & tire back on the bike (minus the spacers & axle nut) and then position it so that it spins freely. You don't even have to remove all the brake calipers. Just spread the brake pads a little. (Yes, I know you have to remove the right front to get the wheel off.) They spin so easy that I have had several times where even an 1/8 ounce made a difference.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just spend the money for a Marc Parnes balancer. I got the longer axle one for $115. You're never gonna miss $115 and the tool will last forever.

I used a laser level on the floor shooting up past the center of the axle end onto the tire rim to i.d. tdc. I put an equal amount of weight on either side of the rim's center rib instead of putting them all on one side. Only needed two squares of lead on my rear Pirelli Diablo Strada and three on the front Pirelli Corsa III.

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Just spend the money for a Marc Parnes balancer. I got the longer axle one for $115. You're never gonna miss $115 and the tool will last forever.

+1, I just love mine. I can balance tires much more accurately than my local shop.

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