Lower RPM at highway speeds

[googus]

Since I am going to be changing my change soon I thought I would ask the question if I can put a smaller amount of tooth rear sprocket on the bike to lower RPMs at highway speeds?

1) has anyone done this. ( I think the XX has plenty of power)

2) what size

3) where to get

4) do I have to cut down the new chain

5) is it hard to do

6) is it worth it to change gearing per say

Thanks for any feedback

Greg

[EVLXX]

I'll give you a hint, the Search key in the upper right, is your friend.

A lot of have played with the gearing, some prefer changing the front, and some the rear. Personally I like to put a 44 on the rear.... this corrects the Odometer.

While others like to put a 18T up front for some really long legs at highway speeds.

Good Luck.

[rockmeupto125]

Pros and cons:

Changing the rear sprocket allows finer adjustment of your final drive ratio.

Rear sprockets are relatively expensive and wear three times as long as the front.

Changing the front sprocket is cheap, typically less than $20, if you don't like it, its easy to correct.

Most folks find the 18t front sprocket gives them spot-on speedo correction.

You can use the stock length chain with a 16, 17, or 18 tooth front sprocket.

Fuel mileage is a bit improved and its an overall calmer ride on the highway.

1st and 2nd gear are longer when you are doing real tight stuff (like Deal's Gap)

Some applications will require (gasp) a downshift from high gear.

While the speedo is corrected, the odometer will then be off.

[googus]

Thank you for search feature idea, since I don't have internet at home and I have to rely on the library it is tough to find time to scan all the search results.

So it is safe to say if I what to drive at a lower RPM on the highway switch to 17th tooth. Any clue on say if I am driving at 80mph what king of rpm saving I will have?

Thanks Again

Greg

[Zero Knievel]

Since I am going to be changing my change soon I thought I would ask the question if I can put a smaller amount of tooth rear sprocket on the bike to lower RPMs at highway speeds?

1) has anyone done this. ( I think the XX has plenty of power)

2) what size

3) where to get

4) do I have to cut down the new chain

5) is it hard to do

6) is it worth it to change gearing per say

Thanks for any feedback

Greg

Ummm....

1. Don't think so. My XX has 1 tooth up in the rear, but it came that way from the guy I bought it from.

2. Don't know.

3. Don't know...but make sure what you get is steel. Last rear sprocket I bought was aluminum but the web site didn't state that.

4. Shouldn't have to unless it's a very significant modification.

5. Changing sprokets? No. Cutting chain? Depends on the tools you're using.

6. I honestly don't think so. RPM savings would be minimal in my estimation. You'd do more to extend MPG by exploiting the XX's power to run in higher gears when torque isn't as critical and be gentle with the throttle for speed changes (not that you need much to start with).

[Flash987]

This site should give you all the information you want on how gearing will affect your rpms and mph on a multitude of motorcycles including the Blackbird

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

[BackStreet]

I played with lots of sprocket changes, mostly with the front. One tooth in the front is almost three at the back.

While it is easy to change sprockets, it's not something you want to do on the side of the road, although that would be best.

So, you have to make a compromise. What is most important to you vs what you have to give up. Only your opinion matters.

For The Dragon, a 16 tooth front would be nice. For the slab to get there, a 18 tooth would be better. 17 is perfect for the Blue Ridge parkway.

[TuffguyF4i]

Can i ask why?

I would be willing to bet that the benefit you are looking for will not happen. Unless you spend lots of time at 80+ speeds, you'll probally get worse gas milage, not better.

[Iceman_40]

Can i ask why?

I would be willing to bet that the benefit you are looking for will not happen. Unless you spend lots of time at 80+ speeds, you'll probally get worse gas milage, not better.

I got better millage, and quite a few others reported the same thing. Hardly noticeable while riding but does have slightly less get up and go. The bike should have come with a 18T on the front.

[runner]

Also remember to consider speedometer error when changing gearing. I run the recalibration unit from Cal-Sportbike...http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?cart_id=5292226.36113&pid=1988&count=1

[Hobicus]

Pros and cons:

Changing the rear sprocket allows finer adjustment of your final drive ratio.

Rear sprockets are relatively expensive and wear three times as long as the front.

Changing the front sprocket is cheap, typically less than $20, if you don't like it, its easy to correct.

Most folks find the 18t front sprocket gives them spot-on speedo correction.

You can use the stock length chain with a 16, 17, or 18 tooth front sprocket.

Fuel mileage is a bit improved and its an overall calmer ride on the highway.

1st and 2nd gear are longer when you are doing real tight stuff (like Deal's Gap)

Some applications will require (gasp) a downshift from high gear.

While the speedo is corrected, the odometer will then be off.

+1 Joe knows his stuff here. My stock rear sprocket has 50k miles on it, and still looks new.

The stock gearing is 17t front, 45t rear.

I run an 18t front, and have even had 18t front and 44 rear when I had my Carozerria wheels on. 18/44 and the speedo was PERFECT with my GPS. With the 45 rear, It's still off by a little bit, but not enough to matter.

The real difference with the 18t s that 2nd gear is actually useable in the twisties, and first gear won't rip your arms off. You just have to learn to leave it in the proper power band for the turns, and you'll be fine.

To answer your questions:

1) has anyone done this. ( I think the XX has plenty of power) Yep! See above

2) what size 18t front gets me about 3 miles to the gallon more on the highway.

3) where to get I like White Buffalo Racing, and prefer AFAM sprockets over JT

4) do I have to cut down the new chain No, but the chain adjustment indicators will no longer read accurate.

5) is it hard to do No... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53782

6) is it worth it to change gearing per say See discussion above

[Skull]

Since I am going to be changing my change soon

Sorry, you're going to be stuck with the current change for another four years.

[Para045]

+1 Joe knows his stuff here. My stock rear sprocket has 50k miles on it, and still looks new.

The stock gearing is 17T front, 45T rear.

I the US it is Australia and Europe it's 17/45

I run an 18T front, and have even had 18T front and 44 rear when I had my Carrozzeria wheels on. 18/44 and the speedo was PERFECT with my GPS. With the 45 rear, It's still off by a little bit, but not enough to matter.

Yeah 18/44 should be almost spot on, with the 17/45 the speedo is out ~8.29% whereas the 17/44 is only ~5.88% out

My current 17/46 is ~10.7% out :icon_think: and when I first changed chain and sprockets I had a 16/46 combo Threw out my speedo by ~17.6%

Sure was fun for a while though just being able to wheelie at will in 3 gears Used to rev up like an old 2ST GP bike slow-faster-fast-wtf Got a bit sick of hitting the limiter all the time though and the fuel consumption went way up

The real difference with the 18T s that 2nd gear is actually usable in the twisties, and first gear won't rip your arms off. You just have to learn to leave it in the proper power band for the turns, and you'll be fine.

[Hobicus]

+1 Joe knows his stuff here. My stock rear sprocket has 50k miles on it, and still looks new.

The stock gearing is 17T front, 45T rear.

I the US it is Australia and Europe it's 17/45

So it's 17/45 in the US... and 17/45 in Australia and Europe... So it's the same.