Flash987

Does it drag all the time, or only when you've been riding ? My XX has never done it (even after EBC HH upgrade), but my VFR800 (Which has the exact same linked brake system) started doing it after about 10 minutes of riding. In my case pulling the caliper off, disassembling, cleaning and reassembling seems to have fixed the problem. If yours is binding even when the bike is cold, then I wonder if your pads just need to bed in a little still ? You might also try bleeding BOTH brake systems on the rear, some trapped air might have the same result. (Don't forget, there are 3 points to bleed from for the rear) The rears drag at different times. I can notice it most when I use the rear(foot) brake during a stop. When sitting at a stop light sometimes the bike rolls back and forth freely like it should while other times I can barely move it as though the brakes are still being applied. I did not bleed the system, but will do that this weekend and see if that helps. Thanks for you suggestion.

This past weekend I replace all three sets of brake pads on my 02 BB. The fronts were about 80% gone and the rears about 95%. I installed ECB HH Sintered after thoroughly cleaning the calipers including the pistons, slides etc. The resluts are great, much lighter touch required on the front brake handle, the Bird stops faster, but the reat pads drag. I did the ole spin the wheel thing and the front rotates about 2 turns, but the rear less than one. The chain is properly lubed so that is not the problem. If I give the rear pads a slight tap with screwdriver they release easily and the rear wheel spins freely. Somewhere in the multiple threads about brakes I remember a "relief" hole being mentioned, but not sure where it is or how to inspect or clean it out. Any suggestions?

Hey John, If you still need one or both stock bars I have them in Boynton and you can have them for $0. Give me a call if interested John Bruyn

Landed a good paying two week contract for April and have been contacted by two very good prospects with interviews to come. Nothing is for sure, but it looks like I should be able to keep my BB and not have to sell.

Possible delivery? lol Oklamhoma is a wee bit far for a delivery

I agree, but unemployment + bills + a father's responsibility = The toys got to go If I can land a job in the next few weeks then I will be in the clear and not have to sell.

Bump for price reduction to $4,700

Ooops, yes John Smith you are correct, a LED not HID tail light. http://www.flashequipment.com/index.cfm/pr...lturn-light.cfm

Unemployment forces sale. For Sale 2002 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird $4,700 Location: Boynton Beach, Florida Contact: John Bruyn 813-230-8933 14,874 miles Some minor scratches from driveway tip-over. Previous owner probably tipped the bike over because there were scratches on the original exhaust system and fairing (right side), but no fairing cracks or other damage that I could ever find.. Had the right fairing repainted to fix scratches. Tires are fair, will need to be replaced within 2k miles Add-ons: HID Headlights (high and low beam) HID Tail light Tank Bra Corbin gunfighter seat, his-and-hers New VFR handle bars Dave's lowering foot pegs Akrapovic 4-1 exhaust system Power Commander PCIII USB

PM sent

Saw this on Craigslist for South Florida (Miami Area) Thought it might be worth it for parts if nothing else. Craigslist link

I learned which one of those relays under the seat and next to the battery is the tip-over switch. The one with the word "UP" on it. After f***'n around with the wiring and checking all the connections I noticed the arrow and the UP word on the tip-over switch and realized I had it in upside down. Arrrgggg, I'm and idiot. Well at least I learned more about the BB.

Thanks, I'll start there. I general, what does it mean when the FI light stays on after the ignition is turned to the run position?

I removed the sub frame along with the rear fender to repaint, clean etc. All was going just fine on reassembly with no missing or extra parts. All was good until I tried to start the bike, the FI light stayed on, which I know means trouble. I checked all the connections and moved the fuse block, relays, wiring harness ,etc around, tired again, the FI light went off after I turned the key on like normal and it started. Thought that fixed it, but after I went back and finished tucking in the wires blocks etc and was ready to put the seat and rear cowling back on I tried to start the bike again and son-of-a-bitch the damn FI light stayed on the engine wouldn't start. Everything looks good and all the electrical components work including the engine turning over. When I turn the key on I can hear that none of the relays are getting juice and I imagine that is why the FI light stays on and it won't start. Any ideas where to look for the source of the problem. Maybe I pulled a wire loose or shorted out something. Previously the BB had no problems and it ran great.

PM Sent

Any reason you don't use the centrestand? Bad luck BTW Usually do, but was doing a quick wipe down and was lazy. That will teach me. In retrospect it is probably a good thing because I had thumb surgery 4 weeks ago and have only been out of my cast for a week and was contemplating going for a ride. With my thumb at about 10 pct strength it was a bad idea. Maybe someone upstairs was giving me a not so gentle hint and telling me to get my head out of my ass and use it for something more than a hat rack.

Sounds great, thanks. If you have a matching brake lever, I'll take both so they match. Let me know what you find.

Anyone have an extra clutch lever they care to part with? Decided to clean the BB today and did not check to see that the side stand was all the way down when I moved it foward to clean the wheels and then I said "oh shit" as I watched it tip over. Broke the windshield, and clutch lever and slightly scratched the side cover, but no major damage. I am such an idiot

Stock exhaust system off an 02 XX with about 12k miles. Cans are in very good to excellent condition. Left can has some small surface scratches on the underside which are visable if you are on your hands and knees. Header has one very shallow dent on one of the bottom tubes. $75 each piece or $200 for all three + shipping. Open to offers if price is too high Also have one right side can with some heavy scratches on it $10 + shipping. Send me your email address if you want more pics. Call 813-230-8933 for more details John

One bump and I am done.

Paypal sent, thanks Stan

I'll take it. PM sent

$50 if anyone is interested. If not, I am giving it away to a friend. Joe Rocket textile jacket Ballistic series, size XL in almost new condition. Open mesh material that is very cool in the Florida heat. Does not have a liner with it. I bought this jacket from a friend at the same time I bought his motorcycle. I really like the style, but it is just too big for me. Between the previous owner and myself it has been probably not been worn more than a dozen times. The guy wearing it in the pictures is 6'2" 245 so you can get an idea how it might fit you. Paid $150 for it, not exactly sure what it is worth, make an offer. Open to trades also for a jacket, size large or some other interesting farkle that would look good on my XX.

The threads are stripped in the switch/pod where one of the throttle cables atttach and I'd like to replace it. Anyone have one laying about? Maybe one of you that changed out this part for the European one that contains the headlight on/off selector.

Well gents, I must say that the english language sure has gotten punished on this thread.