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Clutch won't work


oldgeezer

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Picked up my bike at the mechanic's shop a few weeks ago

after installing new chain, sprockets, tires, and brake pads.

The guy also replaced the brake and clutch fluids with new,

and the levels are correct when viewed through the reservoir

sight windows. The bike shifted fine on the 25 mile trip home.

A couple weeks ago, the day was perfect for a ride, so I go

out and start up the bike, and let it warm up. Get all my gear

on, pull in the clutch to go, and nothing - the damned clutch

lever goes back to the grip like a wet noodle. I try "pumping"

the lever to get hydraulic pressure - nothing again. Well, i was

pretty pissed.

I'm a mechanical idiot and have never bled the clutch before.

Is it a big deal to do, and can I do it by myself? Is it necessary

to attach a bleed tube to the bleed nipple? Matt suggested check

the 3 bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the case, but they all

appear snug and OK. What I can't understand is why I can't seem

to get any pressure to build up when pumping the lever. Also,

there doesn't appear to be any fluid leakage and there's plenty

of fluid in the resevoir. I'm baffled. Any suggestions would be

appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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I hope Joe chimes in soon, He would know for sure. The first thing I would check would be the clutch rod. Pull the primary gear cover and you'll see it right away. Make sure it's not gummed up and jammed in there.

Good luck

marty

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A couple of weeks ago? What have you been doing since then, just stewing over the situation? Hell, man, ask up about problems...you're wasting riding weather.

I think Marty is on the right track, but it doesn't all add up. My guess is that the mechanic didn't do the necessary clutch rod cleaning, some more grunge got in there, and something is skeejawed down inside there. When you put your bike in gear, can you roll it as though the clutch is actuated (might be slightly stuck from sitting, roll it a few times)? If that's the case, you're nearly good to go, cuz you know what's wrong.

First suggestion:

Don't pull the slave cylinder off...pull the sprocket cover instead. Keep in mind that if your hydraulics are good, and you pull the clutch lever with either the slave cylinder or the sprocket cover removed, you'll be wearing the hydraulic oil. Once the sprocket cover is off, pull the clutch actuation rod out, feeling for sticking. Its probably filthy. Clean it, put it back together, and try it. You might try gentle pressure on the clutch lever with your finger on the slave cylinder piston and see if you feel just the slightest bit of movement, but no more. That would be a sign that your hydraulics are in good condition.

If that doesn't work, you may have a piece of debris in your master cylinder from an error in the oil change/bleeding process, or the clutch wasn't properly bled, and you have air in the system. That will require you to take the bike back, or attempt the bleeding process yourself.

Let me know if you need pictures.

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Thanks, Marty & Joe, for your suggestions. I now

at least have a conceptual idea of what the problem(s)

might be, and with that, hopefully I can start to correct

the problem by following your suggestions. I'll post up

my findings later. Thanks again.

BTW, Joe, your signature line is ironically appropriate

for this particular post.

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Doug,

typed some more thoughts, and the computer decided I wasn't logged in anymore.

If you need some more ideas text me, or call the cell.

I had to do this a few times on the Magna before I found the real problem.

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Doug,

typed some more thoughts, and the computer decided I wasn't logged in anymore.

If you need some more ideas text me, or call the cell.

I had to do this a few times on the Magna before I found the real problem.

Thanks, Craig. I plan on trying to bleed the system Saturday,

so if I run into problems I'll give you a call. I can't imagine it

being anything other than air in the system. What I can't figure

out is WHY it got air in the system (clutch worked just fine on

the 25 mile trip home from the shop). Bike didn't get ridden for

a couple of weeks after that. Just stayed parked. Then when I

did decide to go for a ride, no clutch.

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Doug,

typed some more thoughts, and the computer decided I wasn't logged in anymore.

If you need some more ideas text me, or call the cell.

I had to do this a few times on the Magna before I found the real problem.

Thanks, Craig. I plan on trying to bleed the system Saturday,

so if I run into problems I'll give you a call. I can't imagine it

being anything other than air in the system. What I can't figure

out is WHY it got air in the system (clutch worked just fine on

the 25 mile trip home from the shop). Bike didn't get ridden for

a couple of weeks after that. Just stayed parked. Then when I

did decide to go for a ride, no clutch.

I've been through this more than once. Here is what happened. When the fluid was changed, air got in the system and was not bled out properly. A small air bubble is not noticeable in the clutch operation unless it gets in the wrong place. i.e. the master cylinder piston. After the bike sat for two weeks, the air bubble worked its way up to the piston. When you pulled the lever, all you had was air. Pumping the lever does not help because the inlet hole from the reservoir is so freaking small the bubble won't float up through it. I have to use a hand vacuum pump to get the fluid moving fast enough to remove the air. Good Luck. :icon_surprised:

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Doug,

What Jon Haney said is right on.

I keep planning to buy a MY T Vac to do these jobs. It is a hand pumped vaccuum pump that you put on the bleed valve on the clutch/Brake. You open the valve and pump. Fluid moves much faster, and will pull the bubbles out quickly. You just have to keep adding fluid at the master cylinder to keep from running it dry.

If you know a nurse, see if you can get a toomy syringe (sp). They are pretty good sized and you could attach a hose to it and suck the fluid through just like a My T Vac.

Bleeding by pumping and releasing the bleed valve works, it just takes longer.

Doing a horse show early Saturday. If I don't answer, leave a message. Coverage sucks in Doughtery County Saddle Club.

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Remove the slave cylinder and push the piston back with a G clamp or similar. This will push fluid back into the reserviour (make sure it does not over flow).

That should shift the most stubborn air bubble. Also when you do this have the inlet to the slave in the verticle position.

JohnS

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Remove the slave cylinder and push the piston back with a G clamp or similar. This will push fluid back into the reserviour (make sure it does not over flow).

That should shift the most stubborn air bubble. Also when you do this have the inlet to the slave in the verticle position.

JohnS

This will also work, but make sure you don't let the slave piston extend too far. When the cylinder is not bolted to the sprocket cover, there is nothing to stop the piston from coming all the way out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yea Doug-------did you ever get that fixed? Probably more than a few of us are curious as to the what the solution was. Hope all is well---------happy trails kel

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