Leaking forks Help Please

[Stinger_916]

I just did a fork service, you know remove it from the bike and drain/replace the fork oil. I put the new copper crush washer on that drain bolt torqued it to 14 ft lbs per manual, added proper amount of fork oil, put the whole front end back together and took it out for a test spin. When I got back to the garage I noticed a bit of oil on the front rim turns out a bit of fork oil is leaking out from that bolt. Has any one ever had this happen? I just don't see where I went wrong..

[airborneXX]

I just did a fork service, you know remove it from the bike and drain/replace the fork oil. I put the new copper crush washer on that drain bolt torqued it to 14 ft lbs per manual, added proper amount of fork oil, put the whole front end back together and took it out for a test spin. When I got back to the garage I noticed a bit of oil on the front rim turns out a bit of fork oil is leaking out from that bolt. Has any one ever had this happen? I just don't see where I went wrong..

I always put a dab of permatex on the bolt threads. Never had one leak yet.

Yep in the manual it says to use a locking agent on the threads... Guess that's where I got the idea

[Stinger_916]

Brett, what is permatex?

[airborneXX]

Permatex

Available at finer auto parts stores near you

[MrBadExxample]

For future reference, the factory manual indicates that the fork oil is drained by removing the top cap and pouring it out the top. This also allows you to pump the dampening rod and get more of the old oil out. Apparently, the bolt on the bottom on the forks isn't intended to be a drain bolt, although it is often used as such.

[Hobicus]

I had this problem last year after a fork service, and I did it the way you described, by disassembling the forks completely. I did not use a new washer, but that wasn't the cause. As it turned out, there was dirt under the washer that caused it not to seal properly.

To solve the problem, sadly, it meant draining the fork one more time, and cleaning the area under the washer before re-assembling. No leaks since. However, while typing this, I realized that I also now need to do it again, as I've got 25k miles on the bike since I did that last year.

[Stinger_916]

Problem solved. I took everything apart again but this time I used the permatex before reassembly and once I let it do its job no leaks. Thanks to Brett for recommending this product. From now on I will be removing the cap at the top of the fork and that bolt on the bottom will never se the light of day again.

[airborneXX]

Problem solved. I took everything apart again but this time I used the permatex before reassembly and once I let it do its job no leaks. Thanks to Brett for recommending this product. From now on I will be removing the cap at the top of the fork and that bolt on the bottom will never se the light of day again.

Glad to hear it worked. Actually the info came from the manual you gave me 2 years ago

[Stinger_916]

Problem solved. I took everything apart again but this time I used the permatex before reassembly and once I let it do its job no leaks. Thanks to Brett for recommending this product. From now on I will be removing the cap at the top of the fork and that bolt on the bottom will never se the light of day again.

Glad to hear it worked. Actually the info came from the manual you gave me 2 years ago

No kidding? Oh shit thats right, I remember sending that to you. What goes around comes around!

[squag1]

I need to change fork oil - anybody do it without takin gout forks- don't wnat a major job!

[Hobicus]

I need to change fork oil - anybody do it without takin gout forks- don't wnat a major job!

It's not that hard, it's about an hour's work to do both of them, if you're famlliar with the process

[rockmeupto125]

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts.

Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

[beondwacko]

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts.

Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

I've got all the tools , and the beer, but not the motovation. I need to do this as my 01' hasn't been touched. I could use a new set of springs as well. That damm front end is mushy as all hell, but I have been drag racing the bike mostly with the front end strapped anyway. It still needs to be "freshened up".

[Redbird]

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts.

Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

Nice unbiased comparison of the two methods.

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube (and hope to hell the damper rod doesn't spin with the bolt, as it does about half the time in my experience. Do you own an impact wrench? No? Gonna have to remove the fork now, anyway). The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained (after you've loosened the fork cap and released the lock nut underneath. Not a lot of room for the two largish tools required, but who cares about a nick or two in the tank, you've saved half an hour of work. BTW, keep some towels handy, because you're going to get fork oil all over the the bike). The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick (honestly, even if I did it this way, I'd flush the fork out with some fresh oil to try and get all the sediment/crud out of there). Reassembly is straightforward (watch that tank, you don't want more scratches, you just stopped swearing about the first ones). You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts. (don't forget that that damper rod is just as likey to spin when the bolts go in as when they came out. You buy that impact wrench yet? No? Gonna have to pull the fork now, anyway)

I've done it both ways, and believe it or not, I find it easier and a lot less frustrating to just pull the forks. YMMV.

[rockmeupto125]

I apologize for offering a biased opinion differing from your experience.

I'll remove my post to prevent any disservice to our forum members if you remove the guoted text from yours. My purpose in the garage is to help...not hinder.

[Redbird]

I apologize for offering a biased opinion differing from your experience.

I could say the same thing. My intent was not to offend any more than yours was (which I assume was not at all). There's more then one way to skin a cat, and both methods here have their complications. You chose to highlight the negatives of one way, my post highlights the negative of the other, and I believe both of our intents are the same, to help and inform.

I'll remove my post to prevent any disservice to our forum members if you remove the guoted text from yours.

You have my permission to edit my post(s) as you feel is appropriate. I think it'd be a shame to edit any of this thread, as there's good info on both methods here to allow members to decide for themselves which might work best for them.

[squag1]

I've done the forks on a BMW K1100 by sliding off the tubes only.

This way you can wash them out easily. I think they say to take out froks complete to work on them.

The K has a bolt above the spindle too.

Will this work with a Bird??

[Stinger_916]

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts.

Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

Nice unbiased comparison of the two methods.

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube (and hope to hell the damper rod doesn't spin with the bolt, as it does about half the time in my experience. Do you own an impact wrench? No? Gonna have to remove the fork now, anyway). The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained (after you've loosened the fork cap and released the lock nut underneath. Not a lot of room for the two largish tools required, but who cares about a nick or two in the tank, you've saved half an hour of work. BTW, keep some towels handy, because you're going to get fork oil all over the the bike). The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick (honestly, even if I did it this way, I'd flush the fork out with some fresh oil to try and get all the sediment/crud out of there). Reassembly is straightforward (watch that tank, you don't want more scratches, you just stopped swearing about the first ones). You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts. (don't forget that that damper rod is just as likey to spin when the bolts go in as when they came out. You buy that impact wrench yet? No? Gonna have to pull the fork now, anyway)

I've done it both ways, and believe it or not, I find it easier and a lot less frustrating to just pull the forks. YMMV.

Wow who knew this post would stir up so much controversy All I can add is that I tried pulling the allen bolt first and that did not work so I did a search here and decided to pulled the forks out. So having done it both ways I would have to say pull the forks off and do it right. Luckily no scratches

[cbrxxquad]

I just could not leave this post without adding some results.

I am in Houston and meet up with Porter last weekend to visit and he was wanting to do some maintenance to his bird. Since I had read this reply and have done numerous shocks and forks over the years I wanted to help. It was also the first time I had gotten to ride a bird as we needed to get the bike from his office to his shop. Was much like I expected only better. Was a few things that I noticed and that came into play when we got to it.

Since he had bought all the bushings and seals and taper bearings for the triples, how we were going to do this was already set.

He had less tools than what I have, but all that we needed. He might feel different but with two people nothing to it.

Side panels and v piece out of the way, slipped the Gilles adjustable bars off,,,,nice,,,very nice. Front wheel and rotors off, and slide the forks out of the triples. The bottom bolt broke loose and spun out with a allen wrench no problem. Cap off and guts out, fluid caught mostly in a pan. Dust cover pryed out and snap ring poped and slide pulled the seal out. Changed the bushings and reassembled like we took apart. Bottom bolt with new copper washer tightened right up. Filled up to spec with fluid and with the two of us pushing on the cap he screwed it down. Same for the other side.

I was worried about the taper bearings, but the only part that was not straight forward was the old bearing on the stem, but I tapped it off pretty much hitting on the old seal on one side and then the other as good as I could. Not bad.

The races in the head, well with a long punch in the cutouts that are there nothing to it. Used the old bearing races and a piece of aluminum to put the new ones in.

Oh the stem nut was a piece of cake with the same punch.

Glad I got to help and glad to get to ride it before and after, much better, not that it was bad, but it was noticeable better.

anybody can do it.

But now I want a bike to go with the quad, might let Vic ride the quad.

Some day!

[Jaygermeister]

I just could not leave this post without adding some results.

I am in Houston and meet up with Porter last weekend to visit and he was wanting to do some maintenance to his bird. Since I had read this reply and have done numerous shocks and forks over the years I wanted to help. It was also the first time I had gotten to ride a bird as we needed to get the bike from his office to his shop. Was much like I expected only better. Was a few things that I noticed and that came into play when we got to it.

Since he had bought all the bushings and seals and taper bearings for the triples, how we were going to do this was already set.

He had less tools than what I have, but all that we needed. He might feel different but with two people nothing to it.

Side panels and v piece out of the way, slipped the Gilles adjustable bars off,,,,nice,,,very nice. Front wheel and rotors off, and slide the forks out of the triples. The bottom bolt broke loose and spun out with a allen wrench no problem. Cap off and guts out, fluid caught mostly in a pan. Dust cover pryed out and snap ring poped and slide pulled the seal out. Changed the bushings and reassembled like we took apart. Bottom bolt with new copper washer tightened right up. Filled up to spec with fluid and with the two of us pushing on the cap he screwed it down. Same for the other side.

I was worried about the taper bearings, but the only part that was not straight forward was the old bearing on the stem, but I tapped it off pretty much hitting on the old seal on one side and then the other as good as I could. Not bad.

The races in the head, well with a long punch in the cutouts that are there nothing to it. Used the old bearing races and a piece of aluminum to put the new ones in.

Oh the stem nut was a piece of cake with the same punch.

Glad I got to help and glad to get to ride it before and after, much better, not that it was bad, but it was noticeable better.

anybody can do it.

But now I want a bike to go with the quad, might let Vic ride the quad.

Some day!

I rode Porter’s bike at the Texxt this year and all I can say is what an amazing difference in ride compared to mine. I would of like to have pushed it in some corners but I wouldn’t of been comfortable do it with someone else’s bike. I will be hitting up Porter for some help when I get some down time and upgrade the whole front end…. Can’t wait.

[porterb123]

I just could not leave this post without adding some results.

I am in Houston and meet up with Porter last weekend to visit and he was wanting to do some maintenance to his bird. Since I had read this reply and have done numerous shocks and forks over the years I wanted to help. It was also the first time I had gotten to ride a bird as we needed to get the bike from his office to his shop. Was much like I expected only better. Was a few things that I noticed and that came into play when we got to it.

Since he had bought all the bushings and seals and taper bearings for the triples, how we were going to do this was already set.

He had less tools than what I have, but all that we needed. He might feel different but with two people nothing to it.

Side panels and v piece out of the way, slipped the Gilles adjustable bars off,,,,nice,,,very nice. Front wheel and rotors off, and slide the forks out of the triples. The bottom bolt broke loose and spun out with a allen wrench no problem. Cap off and guts out, fluid caught mostly in a pan. Dust cover pryed out and snap ring poped and slide pulled the seal out. Changed the bushings and reassembled like we took apart. Bottom bolt with new copper washer tightened right up. Filled up to spec with fluid and with the two of us pushing on the cap he screwed it down. Same for the other side.

I was worried about the taper bearings, but the only part that was not straight forward was the old bearing on the stem, but I tapped it off pretty much hitting on the old seal on one side and then the other as good as I could. Not bad.

The races in the head, well with a long punch in the cutouts that are there nothing to it. Used the old bearing races and a piece of aluminum to put the new ones in.

Oh the stem nut was a piece of cake with the same punch.

Glad I got to help and glad to get to ride it before and after, much better, not that it was bad, but it was noticeable better.

anybody can do it.

But now I want a bike to go with the quad, might let Vic ride the quad.

Some day!

I rode Porter’s bike at the Texxt this year and all I can say is what an amazing difference in ride compared to mine. I would of like to have pushed it in some corners but I wouldn’t of been comfortable do it with someone else’s bike. I will be hitting up Porter for some help when I get some down time and upgrade the whole front end…. Can’t wait.

Bring it on hair boy

[Jetsetter]

Handy bit of information for me and quite timely.

Recently noticed that my bike wanted to fall into a corner under 30 kmh and was quite difficult to actually hold the bars.

Suspect a seal was gone before i took delivery , so plan on replacing seals and oil etc.

First step will be to fly to another country ( tomorrow) get seals , oil etc and return home to repair . Impossible to find such items in Vietnam.

No vice , no centrestand ,, but at least i have the clues ,,, thanks guys .

Will let you know how i get on .

[MrBadExxample]

First step will be to fly to another country ( tomorrow) get seals , oil etc and return home to repair . Impossible to find such items in Vietnam.

Would you like someone here to get the items you need and send them to you? Would that be easier than flying to another country? Just ask.

[Silverbird2]

I just could not leave this post without adding some results.

I am in Houston and meet up with Porter last weekend to visit and he was wanting to do some maintenance to his bird. Since I had read this reply and have done numerous shocks and forks over the years I wanted to help. It was also the first time I had gotten to ride a bird as we needed to get the bike from his office to his shop. Was much like I expected only better. Was a few things that I noticed and that came into play when we got to it.

Since he had bought all the bushings and seals and taper bearings for the triples, how we were going to do this was already set.

He had less tools than what I have, but all that we needed. He might feel different but with two people nothing to it.

Side panels and v piece out of the way, slipped the Gilles adjustable bars off,,,,nice,,,very nice. Front wheel and rotors off, and slide the forks out of the triples. The bottom bolt broke loose and spun out with a allen wrench no problem. Cap off and guts out, fluid caught mostly in a pan. Dust cover pryed out and snap ring poped and slide pulled the seal out. Changed the bushings and reassembled like we took apart. Bottom bolt with new copper washer tightened right up. Filled up to spec with fluid and with the two of us pushing on the cap he screwed it down. Same for the other side.

I was worried about the taper bearings, but the only part that was not straight forward was the old bearing on the stem, but I tapped it off pretty much hitting on the old seal on one side and then the other as good as I could. Not bad.

The races in the head, well with a long punch in the cutouts that are there nothing to it. Used the old bearing races and a piece of aluminum to put the new ones in.

Oh the stem nut was a piece of cake with the same punch.

Glad I got to help and glad to get to ride it before and after, much better, not that it was bad, but it was noticeable better.

anybody can do it.

But now I want a bike to go with the quad, might let Vic ride the quad.

Some day!

I rode Porter’s bike at the Texxt this year and all I can say is what an amazing difference in ride compared to mine. I would of like to have pushed it in some corners but I wouldn’t of been comfortable do it with someone else’s bike. I will be hitting up Porter for some help when I get some down time and upgrade the whole front end…. Can’t wait.

Bring it on hair boy

Hair boy...........that's funny. Hey, I want in on some of that. I need to upgrade my front forks as well. Maybe we could get together and knock them out. I have done the tapered head bearings already so I know a little about it.

[Jetsetter]

First step will be to fly to another country ( tomorrow) get seals , oil etc and return home to repair . Impossible to find such items in Vietnam.

Would you like someone here to get the items you need and send them to you? Would that be easier than flying to another country? Just ask.

Now thats awfully kind and all , and very much appreciated . I am sure I will be asking for some assistance like that somewhere down the road . I am actually going down to Oz for a few days and just got off the phone with a bike shop where I'll be.