RXX Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I do not pay too much attention to my chain now that I have my pro oiler installed. This may have led to a period of deleterious inattention. I have been noticing a wheel-revolution dependant slight popping somewhere down there that occurs when forward force is exerted on the drive chain. I assumed that when Honda put new tires on the bike they would notice & address the issue, but did not. When the bike is throttled down or slowing down or coasting the sound disappears. Also, as I adjust the chain, there are tight spots and loose spots as the wheel is turned. This makes me suspect an elliptical front or rear sprocket. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp11XX Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Sounds like the chain is simply worn out. If you can grip the chain at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket and expose half a tooth or more while pulling rearward, the chain is definitely worn out. Any popping and loose/tight while rolling is a BAD thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Find the link(s) that is binding, lub the shit out of it and try and work it loose. It does sound like it's time for a new chain though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 It does sound like it's time for a new chain though. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 Fuck me....... Then obvious questions follow: OEM F&R Sprockets? 1 tooth up or down? Best experiences with moving up or down (for commuting/general riding? NOT acceleration or top end stuff?) I need to get on it if'n Ima gonna go to NeXXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotetcher Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 It does sound like it's time for a new chain though. +1 +2 Had a similar situation recently. The chain and sprockets had about17000 miles on them. I could feel a slight tick or thump through the pegs while the chain was under load. I thoroughly cleaned the chain, made sure there were no links binding and lubed it. Checked both the front and rear sprocket. There was wear but nothing that would generate what I was feeling through the pegs. I thought anyway. Still had the same problem when I took it for a ride. I replaced the chain and sprockets and it feels like a new bike again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Fuck me....... Then obvious questions follow: OEM F&R Sprockets? 1 tooth up or down? The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper on it that does, in fact, make a difference in producing less chain noise, so that might be a good argument to stay with it. Though other aftermarket spockets will certainly work just fine, and they are usually cheaper. I personally used the OEM rear sprocket as well.... it's a mighty tough steel sprocket. Unless you're unhappy with stock, I'd stay with the 17T/45T sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Fuck me....... Then obvious questions follow: OEM F&R Sprockets? 1 tooth up or down? The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper on it that does, in fact, make a difference in producing less chain noise, so that might be a good argument to stay with it. Though other aftermarket spockets will certainly work just fine, and they are usually cheaper. I personally used the OEM rear sprocket as well.... it's a mighty tough steel sprocket. Unless you're unhappy with stock, I'd stay with the 17T/45T sizes. At 16k miles I was doing the normal maintance of changing oil and crap like that. Figured since my chain had that many miles on it I should check the front sprocket as the rear looked new (if I cleaned it to get the road grime and chain lube off it) To my surprise the front looked as good as the rear I am pretty anal about keeping up with my chain. On my 750 I had before the XX I had worn and hooked the teeth on the front in 15k miles. Got 18.5k miles on my XX now and everything still works peachy... I also don't launch my bike or put that much uneeded stress on it except for twisting the happy handle when playing in the mountains.. The stock sprocket must be made out of Supermans space ship... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFT Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I've got about 18,000 miles on my chain and I'm beginning to get a bit of noise from it when I firsttake off. I'm putting on the rear wheel with the new tire on it tonite so I will make sure the chain is properly adjusted. I'm thining that is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 Goddamit after owning shafties for the last 12 years it pisses me off to know I am going to have to buy a chainset again. But, the beemer & the goose just do not make me smile like my bird, so I guess it is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 At 16k miles I was doing the normal maintance of changing oil and crap like that. Figured since my chain had that many miles on it I should check the front sprocket as the rear looked new (if I cleaned it to get the road grime and chain lube off it) To my surprise the front looked as good as the rear I am pretty anal about keeping up with my chain. On my 750 I had before the XX I had worn and hooked the teeth on the front in 15k miles. Got 18.5k miles on my XX now and everything still works peachy... I also don't launch my bike or put that much uneeded stress on it except for twisting the happy handle when playing in the mountains.. The stock sprocket must be made out of Supermans space ship... I had 57k on my stock rear spocket with a scottoiler running, didn't even look worn. (then I crashed last year, so who knows how long it would have lasted?)_ My current 02 has 35k.. Scottoiler as well... stock rear still looks new. Chain has 15k miles on it, too, and has been adjusted twice. I have one of those shiny new vortex sprockets sitting in my garage, waiting until I need to replace the stocker. As far as I'm concerned, the stock rear sprocket is made of supermetal. If only my cock could be that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I bought my '01 with 13K miles on it and the OEM chain. At 18K the chain was pretty much toast, noisy and would not hold an adjustment, so I replaced it with an RK, didn't do the sprokets, in fact, never even pulled the front cover, I just used the old chain to drag the new one into place. That chain only lasted about 8K miles, despite religious lubrication and adjustment. The short life was certainly from putting a new chain on old sprockets. This time, I changed both chain and sprockets, DID X-ring, OEM sprockets. Switched back to Chain Wax as well. So far, things are holding up pretty well. I'll have about 4K on it by the time I get home. I have been riding quite a bit of late and have developed a drill for end of day. Bike up on center stand, tools out of the top case, yeah, I carry a big assed 1/2" drive ratchet and a combination wrench with me. Give the chain a wipe, spray on some lube while it is hot and check tension, adjusting as needed, 3x so far. Typical day for me is between 4 and 600 miles so that works out to right what Honda recommends. Who would have thought? Start to finish time on this routine is right at around 5 minutes, including cleaning my hands. I look forward to a long service life from this one. I'm probably going to settle into a routine of chain and front sprocket for every chain and rear every other. I'm looking at in excess of 25K miles a year on this bike, so probably 2 chains a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFT Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I have been noticing a wheel-revolution dependant slight popping somewhere down there that occurs when forward force is exerted on the drive chain. I was getting that same type of noise. I just replaced my tires and of course re-adjusted the chain. Noise gone. There was too much slack in the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 OK, so it seems that the chainset is good for about 18K miles, give or take a few K depending on oiling. That makes me feel better. I put a Pro-oiler on at about 17,500, so the next one should last a bit longer. I am also getting a chain adjusting tool this week. It may not help, but I will feel better using it. I just wish the bike had some fool proof, reproducible and accurate way to gauge chain slack. Some sort of gauge or marker on the swing arm or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnoGecko Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 If only my cock could be that hard. .. ask N1k how, after all - he did take the air compressor out of his truck using it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 If only my cock could be that hard. .. ask N1k how, after all - he did take the air compressor out of his truck using it! N1K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgeezer Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 I just wish the bike had some fool proof, reproducible and accurate way to gauge chain slack. Some sort of gauge or marker on the swing arm or something. I usually adjust my chain, then take the bike off the center stand & sit on the seat to load the suspension, then reach down with my left hand to recheck final chain tension. I like at least a full 1"+ of slack. The chain may appear looser when the bike isn't loaded. Sounds like your chain is definetely on the way out. Your new one should last forever with the Pro Oiler. Don't try to save a few bucks by replacing the chain and NOT both sprockets because in the end it's ALWAYS more costly. I always replace both sprockets and chain at the same time. I've also learned it's better to have chain tension slightly on the loose side. Too tight puts extra strain on the transmission. When I last adjusted my chain I allowed more slack and the transmission shifted ALOT smoother. Also when you change the front sprocket, make sure it is installed correctly. Some sprockets (and possibly OEM sprockets)have a raised boss or surface on one side (the other side does not). If you look at the sprockets edge, along the centerline, you may notice the sprocket thickness is asymetrical. You cannot just slap it on any old way - there is a specific side that must be installed facing the case. Check the manual or the old sprocket upon removing it and note which side has the raised surface and install the new one accordingly. If the front sprocket is not installed properly it will not align correctly with the rear sprocket and the chain will not track true. I haven't changed my Blackbird's sprockets but when I changed the VFR, a friend made me aware of the front sprocket's thickness differences. The poping and loose/tight chain tension almost always means the chain is worn. I have heard, as you mentioned, Phil, that occasionally the radii of a sprocket may not be true, even on new ones, and this eliptical shape will cause uneven chain tension as the wheel / sprockets turn. Such a manufacturing defect would be a rarity although this has occured on occasion. Call me dumb but I like sticking with the OEM steel sprockets / chains in lieu of the "higher performance" chains and aluminum sprockets. I don't race and I want maximum longevity for real world riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr dos equis Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 The chain is obviously stretched....change both chain and sprokets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper on it that does, in fact, make a difference in producing less chain noise, so that might be a good argument to stay with it. I just put an after market, non-damper 18T front on my 'bird and cannot detect any undo chain/sprocket noise. YMMV, of course, but in my case, the OEM vs. after market doesn't seem to have made that much of a difference, noise-wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper on it that does, in fact, make a difference in producing less chain noise, so that might be a good argument to stay with it. I just put an after market, non-damper 18T front on my 'bird and cannot detect any undo chain/sprocket noise. YMMV, of course, but in my case, the OEM vs. after market doesn't seem to have made that much of a difference, noise-wise. I didn't notice the noise right away but after a few months at low RPM I could hear the chain that could never hear before. I think once your chain gets broke in a bit you may notice it. It's not like it's really loud or annoying but it is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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