16-17-18 ?

[LogoMan]

I've got to change my sprockets 'n chain.

Thinking of changing the front - and maybe back - to something other than stock.

I know the subject has been beaten to death, but...

Looking for reasons why some of you have changed your sprockets from stock and how it changed the bike.

[Furbird]

I have had a 16 front tooth since initial break-in on my bike, basically. It makes it easier to wheelie, keeps you more in the powerband, but throws the speedometer even farther off (the stock 17/45 is off as it is, 18/45 is actually pretty close to dead on). I wore my 16 out, so now I'm down to a 15, and that puppy will come off as soon as I can get a deal on another 16. 15 is just too small.

I also have a 12/49 combo. You don't want to know how far the speedo is off with that setup....

[exskibum]

When I put the Carozzerria wheels on, I went up a tooth, from 45 to 46, in the rear and left the front alone. I didn't want to compromise top end much and just wanted that very slight difference in pulling power on acceleration through the midrange that might give me a slight advantage. Advantage over what? Dunno -- not like I race anyone, but I can't leave well enough alone, and it does get ouot of its own way pretty well. Then I put on a speedo healer to have the speedo read right.

[LogoMan]

Yesterday, I was getting dicey with a V-Rod and blew by him in third like he was standing still.

Fun 'till we got to a red light. When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

Not that I was even trying, but c'mon, he dumped the clutch and just went bye-bye.

I don't really go over 150 that much and want more poke off the line and more at 70 or so.

But, I don't want a bike that's too highstrung and sucks gas, either.

Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.

What would a 16 up front do in terms of RPM? Stock, I run around 70-73mph @ 4,000 rpm. Would I be at 4,500+ rpm with the 16? Or the 46/47 in the rear instead?

[shovelstrokeed]

OK, I just ran it through my gearing calculator.

I have adjusted the aspect ratio for the tire to reflect what my GPS shows to be real mph as opposed to theoretical mph. 5K RPM on my bike, with stock gears, gives 82.3 mph. GPS, 90/91 indicated.

4000 RPM with stock gearing should give you 66.5 mph and, assuming your motor will pull 11K RPM, 182.8 on the big end.

With 16 tooth front that is 62.5 at 4K and 172.0 at 11K.

The 18 tooth at the same RPMs is 70.4 and 193.5.

[exskibum]

Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.

Exactly -- I didn't want to have to run 5000 rpms at freeway cruising speeds, drop MPG substantially or have the front end coming up all the time -- just wanted something small as an edge, not a big ratio change. I neglected to mention that this accompanied installation of a Micron 4-2-1 and a PCIII.

[beondwacko]

Yesterday, I was getting dicey with a V-Rod and blew by him in third like he was standing still.

Fun 'till we got to a red light. When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

Not that I was even trying, but c'mon, he dumped the clutch and just went bye-bye.

I don't really go over 150 that much and want more poke off the line and more at 70 or so.

But, I don't want a bike that's too highstrung and sucks gas, either.

Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.

What would a 16 up front do in terms of RPM? Stock, I run around 70-73mph @ 4,000 rpm. Would I be at 4,500+ rpm with the 16? Or the 46/47 in the rear instead?

Randy,

Your XX with the stock gearing will run hard off the line if you wanted it to. It's just a matter of launching technique. Do you think he would have smoked me out of the hole as well ? As for your riding style, I'd stay with the stock 17/45 set up.

[Pete in PA]

I'll put my vote in for 18, I like it.

Less rpm on the highway, and as long as your jetting is spot on in the low range as mine is you won't miss the power.

Also puts your speedo on dead nuts. Your odo. will read 6% low, but that hasn't bothered me as much as I thought it would.

I don't think I'll be changing back.

[kf4mtw]

A bigger front sprocket is easier and more efficient for the chain to bend around. I'm sure some genious here has a parasitic equasion to back it up. :icon_shifty:

[blackhawkxx]

When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

There are v-rods that run at my track. They do leave hard because (1- they do have good torque (2- they are so long and heavy that the front end just don't come up plus they are just easier to launch. After 100 feet or so, you should be able to go right by.

When I put my 16 on, it felt like I was riding around in 5th gear while in 6th.

[Skull]

I put a 16 on to try it out. I'll be putting a 17 back on when I change the chain next. I noticed a slightly harder pull off the line, but it wouldn't really be noticeable if I was doing it right. The speedometer is way off, and it always feels like I need a 7th gear.

[LogoMan]

OK, I just ran it through my gearing calculator.

I have adjusted the aspect ratio for the tire to reflect what my GPS shows to be real mph as opposed to theoretical mph. 5K RPM on my bike, with stock gears, gives 82.3 mph. GPS, 90/91 indicated.

4000 RPM with stock gearing should give you 66.5 mph and, assuming your motor will pull 11K RPM, 182.8 on the big end.

With 16 tooth front that is 62.5 at 4K and 172.0 at 11K.

The 18 tooth at the same RPMs is 70.4 and 193.5.

Thanks for the info. Stock or 18 tooth looks more comfy although passing speeds at 70-75 would be sweet with the 16.

Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.

Exactly -- I didn't want to have to run 5000 rpms at freeway cruising speeds, drop MPG substantially or have the front end coming up all the time -- just wanted something small as an edge, not a big ratio change. I neglected to mention that this accompanied installation of a Micron 4-2-1 and a PCIII.

Guess your solution slots in between the stock and 18 tooth solutions. Not a bad deal. Yeh, I need a 4-2-1 and a PCIII. I need money, too.

Yesterday, I was getting dicey with a V-Rod and blew by him in third like he was standing still.

Fun 'till we got to a red light. When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

Not that I was even trying, but c'mon, he dumped the clutch and just went bye-bye.

I don't really go over 150 that much and want more poke off the line and more at 70 or so.

But, I don't want a bike that's too highstrung and sucks gas, either.

Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.

What would a 16 up front do in terms of RPM? Stock, I run around 70-73mph @ 4,000 rpm. Would I be at 4,500+ rpm with the 16? Or the 46/47 in the rear instead?

Randy,

Your XX with the stock gearing will run hard off the line if you wanted it to. It's just a matter of launching technique. Do you think he would have smoked me out of the hole as well ? As for your riding style, I'd stay with the stock 17/45 set up.

Yes, he would have gotten you off the line, but you would have caught him within 60 feet. I would have got him, too, if I'd had been actually racing him and knew how to launch my bike well.

I'll put my vote in for 18, I like it.

Less rpm on the highway, and as long as your jetting is spot on in the low range as mine is you won't miss the power.

Also puts your speedo on dead nuts. Your odo. will read 6% low, but that hasn't bothered me as much as I thought it would.

I don't think I'll be changing back.

Does the 18 have you cruising faster than before? I have a "problem" with that now.

When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

There are v-rods that run at my track. They do leave hard because (1- they do have good torque (2- they are so long and heavy that the front end just don't come up plus they are just easier to launch. After 100 feet or so, you should be able to go right by.

When I put my 16 on, it felt like I was riding around in 5th gear while in 6th.

Yes, I found out the V-Rods leave pretty effortlessly. Going light to light would have me working real hard to keep up.

I don't have much tight stuff here in Florida so the 17 is OK. It sounds like the 16 would turn the bike more hooligan which would be fun for awhile. Might get old, though, like loud exhaust cans.

Dunno...maybe Adam is right. Just hate to leave well enough alone.

[shovelstrokeed]

I would tend to think the stock gearing is about perfect for highway running. There is a sweet spot on the tachometer on mine between about 4800 and 5500 where the engine just seems to settle into a very low vibration mode. That equates to somewhere between 88 mph and 95 mph indicated, low to mid 80's actual. Mine is just a bit buzzy below about 4500 which is where I would be at the same speeds with the 18 tooth front. 82 mph actual, 90 indicated seems to keep me out of trouble with the LEO contingent, which, with all the travel I do on the bike gets to be pretty important.

[LogoMan]

I would tend to think the stock gearing is about perfect for highway running. There is a sweet spot on the tachometer on mine between about 4800 and 5500 where the engine just seems to settle into a very low vibration mode. That equates to somewhere between 88 mph and 95 mph indicated, low to mid 80's actual. Mine is just a bit buzzy below about 4500 which is where I would be at the same speeds with the 18 tooth front. 82 mph actual, 90 indicated seems to keep me out of trouble with the LEO contingent, which, with all the travel I do on the bike gets to be pretty important.

Like you say, the stock gearing is darn good. Mine likes 70 or 90 indicated, too. 4,000 and 5,000 on the tach respectively.

I was wondering if the 18 would noticeably slow the bike's acceleration from stock. I wouldn't mind a little more range from 1st gear, but I don't want anything slower. Yeh, I know I can downshift.

Maybe the +1 tooth on the rear would give me the best of both worlds. The rear costs more than the front, though. Got to consider that.

I think I'm leaning toward stock or one more tooth on the rear.

[beondwacko]

Randy,

Do you remember that silver and blue Harley ( the fast one ) that was at the track when we went ? The guy that was running 10.60's and had the suzuki swingarm? I was beating his 60' times the last time I went to the track. Just not consistantly.

I hope to race again tommorow night.

[LogoMan]

Randy,

Do you remember that silver and blue Harley ( the fast one ) that was at the track when we went ? The guy that was running 10.60's and had the suzuki swingarm? I was beating his 60' times the last time I went to the track. Just not consistantly.

I hope to race again tommorow night.

I don't remember an HD when I went over. I think you're thinking of your other gay lover.

Let's just say if that guy was running 10.60's, he was a ton faster than this V-Rod.

I don't think you'd have any trouble at all whipping a V-Rod. Just that big flywheels and low rpm torque can squirt a bike away from a light with less commotion than I could muster on the 'Bird.

I'd like to learn how to leave nicely, though. Need to find the right rpm and clutch slippage.

So, do you think you could make better runs with a 16 tooth front?

[beondwacko]

Randy,

Do you remember that silver and blue Harley ( the fast one ) that was at the track when we went ? The guy that was running 10.60's and had the suzuki swingarm? I was beating his 60' times the last time I went to the track. Just not consistantly.

I hope to race again tommorow night.

I don't remember an HD when I went over. I think you're thinking of your other gay lover.

Let's just say if that guy was running 10.60's, he was a ton faster than this V-Rod.

I don't think you'd have any trouble at all whipping a V-Rod. Just that big flywheels and low rpm torque can squirt a bike away from a light with less commotion than I could muster on the 'Bird.

I'd like to learn how to leave nicely, though. Need to find the right rpm and clutch slippage.

So, do you think you could make better runs with a 16 tooth front?

For sure a 16t would help you out of the hole, but be prepared for power wheelies. I'd stick with the stock 17/45 based on your riding style and needs. You can get the bike out of the hole strongly by slipping hte clutch out at about 4K rpm. Anything more could be considered abusive and or promote crazy wheelies !

[LogoMan]

Randy,

Do you remember that silver and blue Harley ( the fast one ) that was at the track when we went ? The guy that was running 10.60's and had the suzuki swingarm? I was beating his 60' times the last time I went to the track. Just not consistantly.

I hope to race again tommorow night.

I don't remember an HD when I went over. I think you're thinking of your other gay lover.

Let's just say if that guy was running 10.60's, he was a ton faster than this V-Rod.

I don't think you'd have any trouble at all whipping a V-Rod. Just that big flywheels and low rpm torque can squirt a bike away from a light with less commotion than I could muster on the 'Bird.

I'd like to learn how to leave nicely, though. Need to find the right rpm and clutch slippage.

So, do you think you could make better runs with a 16 tooth front?

For sure a 16t would help you out of the hole, but be prepared for power wheelies. I'd stick with the stock 17/45 based on your riding style and needs. You can get the bike out of the hole strongly by slipping hte clutch out at about 4K rpm. Anything more could be considered abusive and or promote crazy wheelies !

Ok, I wondered what the best RPM would be.

[dunedain]

I've got several sets of gearing for the XX and played with it since I got it in 98. I did some track days whi it geared higher. Did some drag racing geared lower. I even put a 520 on it for 10,000 miles! I keep coming back to stock and steel. I'm too hard on aluminum sprokets.

It's got the original gears on it right now. Just suits me better but I'm converting it back to the sport tourer it was designed to be sinceI have track bikes and such now.