Disolut Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 so I've never adjusted a chain before. Owned shaft bikes for most of my life. But here, think I, no time like the present, you have some time off, let's get to work. Off I go to the hardware store, for a breaker bar, a three-foot piece of pipe, a 22mm socket, a 27mm socket (12pt because I couldn't find a 6pt), time to have that rear axle nut off. 1st: the book shows it on the right side. On bike the nut is one the left. The nut's the bigger one, right? 2nd: the nut, and axle, happily turn together. My instincts tell me that's bad. But my instincts suck nads. So: how do I loosen the rear axle nut? I would love to head back in to work on Monday and inform my colleagues that, on my vacation, I got my nut off. C'mon, help a brotha out. -N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 1) someone put the axle in backwards, not really a big deal as far as I can tell. Yes, the nut is the big one. 2) The whole thing turning together is normal, that's why you bought two sockets, one to hold, one to turn. At the end of the day it doesn't matter which one you turn, it's just a big ass bolt going through the wheel, really. Turn the bolt or turn the nut, doesn't matter, as long as you remember the whole "righty tighty......" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The bolt should be placed through the swingarm and wheel entering from the left...so that the nut is on the RIGHT side of the bike as it would drive down the road. The nut is the larger of the two sizes. You need two drive devices....two breaker bars, or a breaker and a ratchet, or something. You'll need to hold the axle bolt from turning by using the 22mm socket while you remove the nut by turning it counterclockwise with the 27mm socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 You'll need two sockets/wrenches... 27mm for the nut (should be on the right side) and 22mm for the head of the axle (uh... left side). Hold the axle (22mm) still and turn the nut (27mm)... that's it... Dayumn... 3 answers that fast... not too shabby... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I went out and looked. Nut on the right for my bike. On the left for my other two. Don't really think it matters on the rear as long as the spacers are in the correct place. Remember the torque 69 foot lbs. and to turn the adjuster bolts in the tightening direction until snug, AFTER you have torqued the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 turn the adjuster bolts in the tightening direction until snug, AFTER you have torqued the axle. Umm, why would you do that? You should have the axle blocks all the way forward and keep them there (with your knee or hand) and then torque the nut. That way the chain slack stays the same and the wheel alignment stays as well. If you torque the axle without it positively located the slack and alignment will never be correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Well, there's a big thread about that elsewhere. How about starting with.........the XX doesn't have adjuster blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 the XX doesn't have adjuster blocks. OK, whatever you want to call the part that jackets the swingarm with the adjuster in it........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 OK, whatever you want to call the part that jackets the swingarm with the adjuster in it........ I call mine 'Tim.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 turn the adjuster bolts in the tightening direction until snug, AFTER you have torqued the axle. Umm, why would you do that? You should have the axle blocks all the way forward and keep them there (with your knee or hand) and then torque the nut. That way the chain slack stays the same and the wheel alignment stays as well. If you torque the axle without it positively located the slack and alignment will never be correct. Do you adjust your chain this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I call mine 'Tim.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I'm sure you've alread done the adjustment in two hours now, but here's how I've done it quite a few times... First, the axcel should be going in from left to right. Use you're socket's to get it loose first, then kick it up on the centerstand. Loosen/tighten the two adjuster nuts on either side of the swingarm to get to the ~1" slack (keeping the markers on each side equal) when you put you're big ass down the bird. Of course, re-tighten the axel a bit before testing for proper slack. Exact torque is not neccessary at this point IMO. Once you've got the right slack, torque it to the right spec's (I just do it by hand, my bad...wheel should move freely) Lastly, make sure to ride it around the block to make sure you don't hear a grrrr'ing noise (too tight) or a banging noise (too loose, hitting the centerstand). Good luck with that . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Get some 6pt sockets so that you'll always have nice looking nuts. :icon_thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Will, I'm sure you've alread done the adjustment in two hours now.... 2 Hours??? 20 mins max Loosen the axel, in small increments turn each side adjuster til the desired slack is reached, I measure from the center of the axel to the back edge of the swingarm to make sure its equal length, torque axel back to 60ft.lbs.Get friend or relative to sit on the bike while you check for proper slack under load. If all is good go ride. Never failed me yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disolut Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 Y'all are rock stars! This is great info. Very clear. Today the chain, tomorrow the world. N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Will, I'm sure you've alread done the adjustment in two hours now.... 2 Hours??? 20 mins max Loosen the axel, in small increments turn each side adjuster til the desired slack is reached, I measure from the center of the axel to the back edge of the swingarm to make sure its equal length, torque axel back to 60ft.lbs.Get friend or relative to sit on the bike while you check for proper slack under load. If all is good go ride. Never failed me yet. My bad. I just skimmed through the posts . I thought it was you that was having the problem. The 2 hours thing was from when the post was made 'till when I replied. Anyways, nothing to see here... move along. Disolut, Lot's of good info here if you can skim through my bullshit . Y'all are rock stars! This is great info. Very clear. Today the chain, tomorrow the world. N. Another Hero born! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dissolvedego Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 ok most of this makes sense... but there's still a couple things i don't understand. one of the adjuster nuts on my bike is loose (you can move it with your fingers), the other is tight. this is with the axle nut tightened (i haven't messed with it, yet). aren't the adjuster nuts supposed to be equal to eachother? how can i turn them equally if one of them has been floating around? do the adjuster nuts effect anything with the axle nut tightened? i would guess not. should i just tighten the loose one before i loosen the axle nut, and turn them both equally from there? and i know i probably shouldn't even ask, but what should i use to clean the chain? *ducks* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 ok most of this makes sense... but there's still a couple things i don't understand. one of the adjuster nuts on my bike is loose (you can move it with your fingers), the other is tight. this is with the axle nut tightened (i haven't messed with it, yet). aren't the adjuster nuts supposed to be equal to eachother? how can i turn them equally if one of them has been floating around? do the adjuster nuts effect anything with the axle nut tightened? i would guess not. should i just tighten the loose one before i loosen the axle nut, and turn them both equally from there? and i know i probably shouldn't even ask, but what should i use to clean the chain? *ducks* Describe "loose"? They are actually bolts that are adjusted in/out of the metal bracket that the axel goes through, if it's not snug you may have one thats stripped out and its not adjusting the way it should. It shouldn't be Hercules tight but shouldn't be sloppy loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 ok most of this makes sense... but there's still a couple things i don't understand. one of the adjuster nuts on my bike is loose (you can move it with your fingers), the other is tight. this is with the axle nut tightened (i haven't messed with it, yet). aren't the adjuster nuts supposed to be equal to eachother? how can i turn them equally if one of them has been floating around? do the adjuster nuts effect anything with the axle nut tightened? i would guess not. should i just tighten the loose one before i loosen the axle nut, and turn them both equally from there? and i know i probably shouldn't even ask, but what should i use to clean the chain? *ducks* The adjuster nuts should be tightened...backed out counter clockwise, after the alignment is set and the axle torqued...The bolts themselves are not necessarily adjusted equal...it's the marks on the swingarm that are supposed to line up with the Axle bracket?? Backing the adjuster nuts out after everything is set will help keep the wheel alignment set. Especially during hard accelleration, the chain is trying to pull the wheel forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccriderXX Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Wow, I just use the two box end wrenches that came in the tool kit. I may have had to loosen the big nut once with another larger wrench. But at home and on the road my toolkit suffices for this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dissolvedego Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Describe "loose"? They are actually bolts that are adjusted in/out of the metal bracket that the axel goes through, if it's not snug you may have one thats stripped out and its not adjusting the way it should. It shouldn't be Hercules tight but shouldn't be sloppy loose. i can turn it with my fingers, if i recall correctly, about half a turn in either direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dissolvedego Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The adjuster nuts should be tightened...backed out counter clockwise, after the alignment is set and the axle torqued...The bolts themselves are not necessarily adjusted equal...it's the marks on the swingarm that are supposed to line up with the Axle bracket?? Backing the adjuster nuts out after everything is set will help keep the wheel alignment set. Especially during hard accelleration, the chain is trying to pull the wheel forward. the marks on the swingarm are slightly uneven when i compare the right and left sides. so should i just make sure they're even when i adjust the chain? i heard somewhere that it doesn't really matter if they're even or not, that it depends on how it was alligned or something. :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The adjuster nuts should be tightened...backed out counter clockwise, after the alignment is set and the axle torqued...The bolts themselves are not necessarily adjusted equal...it's the marks on the swingarm that are supposed to line up with the Axle bracket?? Backing the adjuster nuts out after everything is set will help keep the wheel alignment set. Especially during hard accelleration, the chain is trying to pull the wheel forward. the marks on the swingarm are slightly uneven when i compare the right and left sides. so should i just make sure they're even when i adjust the chain? i heard somewhere that it doesn't really matter if they're even or not, that it depends on how it was alligned or something. :icon_think: I don't rely on those marks, I measure from the center of the axel to the rear edge of the swingarm. Both sides measure equal I think it's as best as I can get it aligned. Haven't had any issues using that method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The marks are a reference. Some say they are O.K. most don't really trust them to make the wheel straight. The older thread tells of the many ways people align the wheels. I do know when it is right, the chain centers itself on my rear sprocket. Of course by now you are done and riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dissolvedego Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 it's at the replace line too..... maybe i should. how much can i expect to pay to have the chain and sprockets replaced? $300? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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