rca29 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Yes, i did used the search button, and i've read the (great) article on this by Warchild, and on this site :worship: . From what i understand (from the Honda service manual), i would have to remove all the fairing (including the whole upper cowl but, today i asked in my Honda dealer if they do all that, and he told me that they only have to remove the left and right lower cowl (and move the radiator, etc.). My question is if anyone tried it, as i wouldn't like to mess with the air funnel stacks... ...which it's always better than remove the upper cowl :roll: Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickcbr1100 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Lot less room to manouevre if you do it from the front much easier to follow Warchilds method. The air ducts slip back into the airbox easy if you give them a smear of silicone oil or grease. Plus you're above it looking down at what you're doing not wrenching your neck trying to do it from underneath mainly by feel. Had a friend who did his the hard way but only the one time once he saw how much easier the warchild method is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 My question is if anyone tried it, as i wouldn't like to mess with the air funnel stacks... Why? There is absolutely nothing to it..... six little philips screws, and the funnel stacks are off.... Removing the Blackbird's upper cowl to do this is ludicrous... it's a LOT more work, and you'll have all kinds of opportunity to dork stuff up disconnecting and removing the various components.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 ??? Did you see the article and photos in the FAQ on this site? Just take off the tank and airbox, easy. Don't want to mess with the ram air tubes? Why not? There's nothing magic about them. And you really don't mess with them, just pull the airbox off. They are not even attached, just a slip fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Two years ago in the winter, I fowled out my OEM plugs trying to start the bike after it had sat for about a month. The owners manual tells you how to remove the plugs. (they do it exactly as outlined in the shop manual) I pulled all the plastic, and started with the radiator. I couldn't even see the damn plug connectors. So, I called my buddy who was a Honda mechanic, and asked him about changing the plugs. His answer? "Screw what it says to do in the manual. Pull the airbox off, and get to the plugs from the top." Later, I found Warchild's instructions. Follow those. Hopefully you still have the toolkit that came with your bike. The spark plug wrench supplied by Honda works about as good in that confined space as anything you can buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rca29 Posted August 5, 2003 Author Share Posted August 5, 2003 Thanks for your answers. I wasn't planning on removing the upper cowl, as my Honda dealer told me that they don't need to do it, they only remove the lower cowl. But 'mickcbr1100' made me think of something: - They have a stand so the bike gets a lot higher from the ground, and that may keep them from wrenching their necks while doing it. :headscratch: I will do it in the 'Warchild' way. It's the 2nd time that i ask something to my Honda dealer and end up finding out that you guys on the forum are right... Thank you a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookman49 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 I followed the instructions here. Was not that hard at all. Screw taking all the plastic off. That would be a real pain in the ass. Just make sure your tank is really low on fuel. It will make it alot easier. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Just make sure your take is really low on fuel. It will make it alot easier. That's a key part of the equation, and makes the job even easier. Just be ready to cap the lines when you remove them, as the fuel comes out quickly if you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickcbr1100 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Theres enough slack in the fuel lines to just up end the tank and put it on the frame rails without disconnecting them, or is it different on carbed 'birds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookman49 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 or is it different on carbed 'birds? Nope not different. I had enough slack. Just remember to put down a soft towel or somthing so it does not scratch the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I do it the same way your shop does -- i.e. I only remove the left and right lowers. I don't find the Honda method that bad, and it seems to work on the KISS principle. The whole job doesn't take me that long. But, different strokes for different folks, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 and it seems to work on the KISS principle Uh, it's the most complex, round-about way to do it. From above is the KISS method. Plus while you're in there you should check/replace the air filter anyway. As far as tools, I find my combo of socket-3" extension-swivel-6" extension to be better than the stock wrench. Photos and details in the FAQ section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spEEdfrEEk Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 ???Just take off the tank and airbox, easy. Â Don't want to mess with the ram air tubes? Yep.. Just yank the tank and airbox, then use 2 extensions on a ratchet and you will be able to easily reach and extract the plugs by going in between the triple clamp and frame crossbar. I recommend that you replace the air filter while you got it off too (or clean your K&N if you have one). Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. :cool: TJ :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookman49 Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I recommend that you replace the air filter while you got it off too (or clean your K&N if you have one). Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. Very good point TJ. Just make sure you have one before you start this. My dealer had to order one for me. Did not have it in stock. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I find that life easier to just take the tank off (it's just a few hoses) and get it out of the way. The hardest part on my Bird was getting the sparkplug wires off. No room with the cross brace right were your hands need to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I couldn't get my hands past the that crossbar!!! My hands are too big to get in there to do anything. I gave up half way into it. Didn't want to break anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I couldn't get my hands past the that crossbar!!! My hands are too big to get in there to do anything. I gave up half way into it. Didn't want to break anything. Obby, was this going in from the top, or going in from the radiator per the Honda Service Manual procedure? If the latter, yeah, I can see where you'd have problems. Going in from the top, however, should afford you enough room to that you can use a pair of long needle-nose pliers under that crossbar (preferably, 45-degree angled) to gently work the spark plug leads back and forth until you can unseat them, then carefully withdrawl them from the recesses. The far right plug (as you sit on the bike) has an oil breather tube routed immediately above it. This provides an extra bit of challenge for removing the spark plug cap, but it's still readily do-able. Still and all, if you're concerned that you might ham-fist something while working is such a confined area, you're probably using good headwork to button things back up and take it to your dealership's small-handed technicians. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spEEdfrEEk Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 That's why you use two extensions on the ratchet :grin: Also, medical forceps are great for grabbing the plug out of the cylinder head after you've gotten it loose with the ratchet.. :cool: TJ :cool: I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I couldn't get my hands past the that crossbar!!! My hands are too big to get in there to do anything. I gave up half way into it. Didn't want to break anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Also, medical forceps are great for grabbing the plug Don't your plug sockets have rubber inserts to hold the plug? All of mine do. The wire boots are the worst part of the whole job, admittedly. They could have molded a nipple on top of those things to grab and pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I use the wrench provided in the kit, as I find it works great for the application. Plus, I can easily torque the plugs back in place. I also use the long, 45degree needle nose pliers for the wires, as Warchild suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 and it seems to work on the KISS principle Uh, it's the most complex, round-about way to do it. If you consider removing the lower fairings complex, then I guess you're right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlkLightning Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Dont let some of these guys scare yah about changing your plugs. I glanced at warchilds page and knocked them out in about an hour including a couple trips to the fridge for beer. I used the toolkit socket and a regular snap on combo 10mm wrench. Paint mixer sticks make good tank props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rca29 Posted August 7, 2003 Author Share Posted August 7, 2003 Next Saturday i will find out if the Warchild method is good for me (and i'm convinced that it will be). I got the 45 degrees needle nose pliers today and i'm planning on using the toolkit that came with the bike to remove the spark plugs. I bought the bike ('99 black) in second hand with 18.000 km and now it has 23.000 km, but i don't know when the spark plugs where last changed. So i'm gonna change the oil and the oil filter (yes, i'm going to use the 'shortcut' guides to do it) and check the spark plugs and air filter. In my last bike (cbr600 F2) i've always replaced the spark plugs AFTER they died. Usually, i don't use the bike that much during the winter, and sometimes the cbr600 would be stored in the garage for 3 or 4 months, wich means that every 2 years or so, i had to replace the spark plugs, not because they were worn (they had like 3000 km), but i always felt that they were 'old' and the bike just wouldn't start. I don't know a lot about spark plugs, but i always noticed the better performance after changing to new ones on my cbr600, even when they looked like new and had only 3.000 km. The strange thing is that i never experienced that improvement after changing the plugs on my cars, not even when they look really worn out. Strange... :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Because of federal emission requirements, more room under the hood, etc. cars tend to have better ignition systems than motorcycles. Most cars are not on the cutting edge of performance, so you may not notice some performance loss. The compression ratio on most cars are usually lower which results in an easier environment for the plug to fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rca29 Posted August 9, 2003 Author Share Posted August 9, 2003 I followed the Warchild method and i found it very easy. I placed the tank the same way that Carlos (article from this website) did and used the tools that came with the bike, and a 45 degrees needle nose pliers. It took me about an hour because i had to take care of a few other things (on the phone) while i was doing it. Thank you all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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