Fly By Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 This stems from a previous post and these brakes are starting to PISS ME OFF! Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks to Joe in the previous thread for explaining the basics. 1.) How screwed am I when I can't get new EBC-HH brakes in either front caliper because they won't fit. The old worn down brakes fit just fine. Replaced back brake with no problems. Looks like the front brakes barely squeeze when applied. 2.) What chemicals do I need when I change out the pads? I've read brake cleaner, brake grease, cleaning brake pins and where do I get this shite? At an automotive store, or better yet, Walmart? And what kind of floss do I need to clean that crack between the caliper and disk? It's the 3rd day I've screwed w/ these f*ckers which is too long to be screwing around with brakes. :evil: Most of the guys here would have rebuilt their whole bike by now. Help!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severdog Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 1.) How screwed am I when I can't get new EBC-HH brakes in either front caliper because they won't fit. The old worn down brakes fit just fine. Replaced back brake with no problems. Looks like the front brakes barely squeeze when applied. dude.....did you push your pistons back into the caliper after you removed the old pads? You should *not* be able to insert new brake pads without doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBird Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 AND DONT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER to pry the pistons back in. Use you fingures if possible. Play nice with the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4fku Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Be careful when doing this. Place your fingers inside the caliper and (with the old pads in place) push the pistons back into the caliper. Then you can put the new pads in. You don't need any chemicals unless you get the rotor or the pads greasy or dirty. If you do then you can spray them down with brake cleaner. Just be careful around the painted areas of the bike it will take off paint as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickcbr1100 Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Are you replacing stock pads with the metal shims behind them?, if so you dont need to use the shims when fitting the EBCs, that gives a little bit more clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Try taking the master cylinder reservoir caps off both rear and front (they're linked remember) to push pistons in. Just watch the handlebar reservoir is level and don't bump it or the spilled fluid will eat paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly By Posted July 31, 2003 Author Share Posted July 31, 2003 Let me just say you guys are the best!!! It was just a matter of me pushing the pistons back in. I feel like a du-fuss, but at least the bird's back on the launch pad. :grin: I actually do have a manual before anyone tells me to get one and did read the part about pushing the brake pads in, but looking at the diagram on 15-12, there is no way I was going to get the pistons in with the hand grip shown. I had to wrap my fingers around that sucker and push pretty hard before the pistons reset. So thank you for emphasizing the piston reset. By the way, the EBC-HH brakes are completely awesome! Like others have stated, the Bird now brakes like she is supposed to. I actually have a back brake now that works. Again, thanks for everyones help. This is one hell of a group to be a part of! TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 hey flyby, did you have to uncap the masters to get the pistons pushed back in... i'm doing both my fronts this weekend with ebc hh's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly By Posted July 31, 2003 Author Share Posted July 31, 2003 No, I left the caps on. That might have been why it was more difficult, but I was too worried about putting pressure on the brake, the wheel turning mid push, and then brake fluid going all over the bike. Instead, I just put my palm to the brake caliper, cupped my hand underneath, and my fingers on the back of the rotor. Then slowly squeezed. Just go slow. If you remove the brake pad, which is very easy, you can put your fingers in there and feel the 3 plungers and how far they need to move before their flush. Once their flush, it's gravy. Good luck and your going to love the EBC's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 cool, thanks! i put ebc hh's on my back of my 2002 at about 13k, i now have 22.5k, they made a phenom diff in the back, i can imagine what they'll do in the front! believe it or not, they prolly only have 5-6k left on them! i've surprised they wore so fast but i do a lot of lane split, on and off the brakes with my commute... sometimes REALLY on, on the brakes :???: i also just put stiffer springs up front, so i'll be able to use more of there effectiveness (with less front end dive). did you use the honda plastic shims? or the ebc metal ones? or both? i can't remember what i did with my backs, but i do remember, i left something out, cuz i couldn't get it all shoved back in there :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly By Posted July 31, 2003 Author Share Posted July 31, 2003 I experienced that front end dive this evening when I was testing out the brakes. I never really noticed it before until now. And it happened when I hit the back brake :shock: LBS I guess. I would love to re-do the suspension. I just don't have the $ for something like that .... yet. The front brakes didn't have shims in them like the back brake did. If they were supposed to, I probably wouldn't have used them anyways. I just took the brakes out of the package with the sheet metal plate on the back and installed it. (They come with their own.) I didn't use the shim on the back. The only thing I'm slightly concerned about and need to keep an eye on is my front brakes rubbing. And this occurred with my old brakes as well. No matter what I do, it seems that my front brakes are always skimming the surface of the rotor. This may be normal, but I still need to keep an eye on it. Maybe some brake grease on the pistons will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 The front brakes didn't have shims in them like the back brake did. Â If they were supposed to, I probably wouldn't have used them anyways. Â I just took the brakes out of the package with the sheet metal plate on the back and installed it. Â (They come with their own.) Â I didn't use the shim on the back. Just removing the OEM pads and installing the EBC pads exactly as they come out of the package is the correct way to install them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 To push the pistons back easily, I just do it before disassembly with a screwdriver. Just go slow and don't lever against the rotor, twist it instead. BTW, if you do that about once a month, your brakes will feel like new again. Because of the way that disc brakes work, the seals get "stuck" in a certain spot when the pads wear slightly. Doing this re-seats them and firms up the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 damn swampy, that's good advice! thanks! :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 If you have pushed the pistons in without removeing the reservoir cap, after you are done and have reseated the pistons take off the cap and reseat the rubber accordian boot on the bottom. It will be extended down into the reservoir. Hence why I just take caps off for brake work. I hope you were just kidding about grease on the pistons, Don't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly By Posted August 1, 2003 Author Share Posted August 1, 2003 Thanks for the tips. If you twist the screwdriver between the old brake pad and rotor, isn't it possible to gouge the rotor with the screwdriver? I suppose one could get a piece of thin plastic to protect the rotor and then twist against both. I'm just curious. That's a great idea about re-seating the brakes every once in awhile. I will be reseating the accordian boot in the reservoir as soon as I get home. I actually wasn't kidding about putting some grease on the pistons, but if that's a dumb thing to do, then I obviously won't. My thoughts were that maybe the pistons are not sliding as well as they should due to my brakes always rubbing, so by lubricating them, they slide a little easier. From your post though, I think I've made some assumptions I shouldn't have and will just leave it alone until I look at the service manual a little more carefully. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted August 2, 2003 Share Posted August 2, 2003 The only grease allowed anywhere near a brakeing system is on the slideing pins under the rubber boots. The ones that allow the caliper to slide left and right. If you grease the pistons, the first time you brake the pistons heat up and the grease will flow on the pads and rotor, no brakes. :shock: :shock: Light rubbing when brakes are off is normal. Also with new pads I've noticed they rub more till they wear in so probably not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 3, 2003 Share Posted August 3, 2003 It will be extended down into the reservoir. ??? If you push the pads in before changing them, this will FILL the reservoir, not empty it. In either case though the boot will simply expand and contract with the space left in the system. BTW, filling the reservoir as high as possible is good since it leaves the smallest air space. Remember that air expands/contracts with heat. isn't it possible to gouge the rotor with the screwdriver? I said "gently." Rotors are damn hard, you'd have to really work to gouge it. I've done this literally hundreds of times, and dozens just on the XX, without an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 Swamp, what I meant was if you push the pistons in, do your brake swap, then pump the lever to reseat the pistons, the accordian will wind up extended down into the reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 I don't think that's a bad thing. I think it's good. Minimizing the air space on the fluid side is probably good. Also, the less you open the reservoir, the less water that's going to be absorbed into the fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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