gharknes Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 I had my chain replace with one of those SBSR type chains and it is very noisy, I only changed the chain, is this normal while it runs in ? Also I noticed that the manual says not to use a chain with a clip type master link, I read this after the chain was fitted and it is a clip type, we don't have the same choices here in Thailand for spares, can anyone tell me why a clip type chaain is not suitable for the blackbird...................should i take it back and get it replaced again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 It has been found that due to the power delivered to the chain, and the stress placed on the chain that the clip-type chains normally break on the clip or loses the clip, thus the chain comes appart. I'm sure someone here can give you more detailed info with regards to this, and what causes the clip to come off. But I would rather get a rivit-type chain. Masterlink rivits onto the chain, and does not have a clip that attaches to the masterlink to keep it in place. Only problem with a rivit-type chain is that you will need some way to rivit the chain on. There are a couple of different chain breaking and riviting tools available on the net. EK-chains have now released a simpler rivit chain option, where you will not need a special tool to rivit the masterlink onto the chain anymore. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30030 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gharknes Posted February 6, 2006 Author Share Posted February 6, 2006 It has been found that due to the power delivered to the chain, and the stress placed on the chain that the clip-type chains normally break on the clip or loses the clip, thus the chain comes appart. I'm sure someone here can give you more detailed info with regards to this, and what causes the clip to come off. But I would rather get a rivit-type chain. Masterlink rivits onto the chain, and does not have a clip that attaches to the masterlink to keep it in place. Only problem with a rivit-type chain is that you will need some way to rivit the chain on. There are a couple of different chain breaking and riviting tools available on the net. EK-chains have now released a simpler rivit chain option, where you will not need a special tool to rivit the masterlink onto the chain anymore. ok thanks, I will look for the rivet type tommorrow, what about the noise ????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 I had my chain replace with one of those SBSR type chains and it is very noisy, I only changed the chain, is this normal while it runs in ? No, it is not. Good rule of thumb is you should always replace the sprockets and chain at the same time. The XX rear is usually good for two chains, but the front at least should have been swapped with the chain. Don't know that that's the cause of your noise, but I include it as general info. Noises are difficult to diagnose over the internet, be as descriptive as possible with that. One possibilty is the master link was over-pressed and is binding a bit. Also I noticed that the manual says not to use a chain with a clip type master link, I read this after the chain was fitted and it is a clip type, we don't have the same choices here in Thailand for spares, can anyone tell me why a clip type chaain is not suitable for the blackbird...................should i take it back and get it replaced again. Clip can work loose, then the master link itself can work it's way out, then the chain lets go, possibly causing all sorts of problems, from a catastrophic loss of control to cracked/damaged engine cases. Get a rivet type master link on the a.s.a.p. No need to replace the whole chain, just the master link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 With the noise you're hearing and your recent chain renewal, I suspect you didn't replace the front sprocket, and you are hearing some binding or mismatch of the chain and sprocket. Replace the rear only if it appears worn. They are tough as titanium nails. So really...just what Redbird said. I just wanted to hear myself type. Clip type master links are as strong as rivet links. The problem lies in the fastening mechanism....clip type links are prone to losing the clip because of the great amount of reverberation that a high powered motorcycle develops. That "reverberation" can be seen on the slack side of your chain looking like a sine-wave during periods of high power delivery...high accelerative power, or high decelerative power. Slapping back and forth like that tends to increase the propensity of the clip to go airborne, never to be seen again, after which your sideplate, then link itself tend to follow. Best case scenario is that your chain falls to the ground. Middle case scenario is that the chain wedges itself between the case halves and you need to effect major repair, or replace the engine, and worst case scenario is when the chain jams around the front sprocket, locking your rear wheel---you lose control, slide down the road, get killed by a school bus carrying three squads of cheerleaders which hits a tanker truck transporting germ warfare gas and then runs over a bridge plunging 400 feet into 19 degree water. Now that hasn't happened to anyone here, but I know of 4 incidents that the middle scenario has occured. Don't ride too aggressively, keep an eye on your chain, and order a rivet link. You'll be a better person for it. Many people use clip type chains without fear or incident, including myself. But a rivet link is safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 worst case scenario is when the chain jams around the front sprocket, locking your rear wheel---you lose control, slide down the road, get killed by a school bus carrying three squads of cheerleaders which hits a tanker truck transporting germ warfare gas and then runs over a bridge plunging 400 feet into 19 degree water. Hey, I've seen it happen. It was two squads and the water was 41 degrees, but other than that....wow, what are the odds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 increase the propensity of the clip to go AIRBORNE, never to be seen again BWAHHAHAHA [evil voice] I have all the clips, and the fairing screws, and the plastic button thingys... all mine never to be seen again [/evil voice] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Give 'em back. Fucker. My socks, too, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gharknes Posted February 6, 2006 Author Share Posted February 6, 2006 With the noise you're hearing and your recent chain renewal, I suspect you didn't replace the front sprocket, and you are hearing some binding or mismatch of the chain and sprocket. Replace the rear only if it appears worn. They are tough as titanium nails. So really...just what Redbird said. I just wanted to hear myself type. Clip type master links are as strong as rivet links. The problem lies in the fastening mechanism....clip type links are prone to losing the clip because of the great amount of reverberation that a high powered motorcycle develops. That "reverberation" can be seen on the slack side of your chain looking like a sine-wave during periods of high power delivery...high accelerative power, or high decelerative power. Slapping back and forth like that tends to increase the propensity of the clip to go airborne, never to be seen again, after which your sideplate, then link itself tend to follow. Best case scenario is that your chain falls to the ground. Middle case scenario is that the chain wedges itself between the case halves and you need to effect major repair, or replace the engine, and worst case scenario is when the chain jams around the front sprocket, locking your rear wheel---you lose control, slide down the road, get killed by a school bus carrying three squads of cheerleaders which hits a tanker truck transporting germ warfare gas and then runs over a bridge plunging 400 feet into 19 degree water. Now that hasn't happened to anyone here, but I know of 4 incidents that the middle scenario has occured. Don't ride too aggressively, keep an eye on your chain, and order a rivet link. You'll be a better person for it. Many people use clip type chains without fear or incident, including myself. But a rivet link is safer. It's not really a bad noise, it's just the normal chain type sort of gearing sound only louder than it was, perhaps it will bed in in a few days, I will go back tomorrow and get the guy to order a rivet type link, I don't like the sound of the clip senario, I can remember my push bike had a clip and they wheren't very secure. thanks guys for the replys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodantking Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 make sure your chain is not to tight. That could be the source of your noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 How about rear wheel alignment. Did you move the wheel when you replaced the chain. If it is rubbing the side of the rear sprocket, it might sound different. I use a Motion pro tool for riveting the chain. I have see a local wrench use a tubing flaring tool. He made a steel plate that fit in place of the tubing holder and pressed the link that way. The rivets looked good, but he said it took practice to not damage a link. Just a thought, If tools are hard to come by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gharknes Posted February 7, 2006 Author Share Posted February 7, 2006 why not do a spot weld on the clip ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Not Serious? I can't believe the heat from a spot welder wouldn't damage the O rings and vaporize the grease in the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gharknes Posted February 8, 2006 Author Share Posted February 8, 2006 Not Serious? I can't believe the heat from a spot welder wouldn't damage the O rings and vaporize the grease in the link. more than likely, I've ordered the Link noise still there, don't know if its the chain itself or the new chain meshing into the used sproket, I will keep an eye on it for heat etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I went the cheap way with a clip once. I replaced 3 missing clips in 20k miles. Just look down and it's GONE! Good the side plates are such a tight fit. I realized that at over 130 or so they come off. When I switched to a rivet chain (and bought the MP tool) I found a broken clip stuck in the chain spooge at the front sprocket. They are actually breaking off in pieces at high speed. RIVET ONLY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdxx Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 I think the noise you hear is the new chain meshing with the old sprocket, and what you are about to experience is the new chain wearing in (read "stretching") rapidly to accomodate the old sprocket, and soon you will be right back where you started. While you are replacing the clip link with a rivet link, go ahead and replace the front sprocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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