arcticflipper Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 OK so now that I can notice that the XX has a power loss, I think it is really time for me to change the plugs. Looked at the Honda Workshop manual, and saw that this is quite a huge job to do. Managed to get all the right tools to get into the moter to undo and refasten the plugs. I've seen that there was a post regarding a wuicker way to change the plugs, which meant that you only had to remove the tank, airbox, and a couple of other card related parts, but how the fuck do you manage to get the plug leads out. Is there something that I need to get the leads out? - tool? Oh and yes it's darn cramped in there. I managed to get hold of a arm-lenght extension for the 16mm spark plug socket that is needed to get to the plugs. It's a 02 XX with 50 000 km on the clock. Besides the regular oil changes and the recent brake fluid change, airfilter, oilfilter, checking of all bolts, screws and nuts and brake pads is there anything else I need to look at for the 50 000 km service? I have recently also changed the coolant and flushed the system, also looked at the radiator fins and opened and cleaned any bent fins - oil and radiator. I have noticed that the sound has changed on the XX, not too sure if this is spark plug related. It's a bit louder now than what it used to be. I did get new slip-ons and have had them for +-4 months. Could it be that these have only now settled? or could it be that the motor has only now been run in? The only performance difference that I've noticed is that the XX isn't pulling as hard as it used to, but this is due to the plugs that I need to change. The louder noise is only form the Exhaust, at the rear. There is no leaks on the exhaust system. Checked it from front to back, and also checked to see if it's coming from the motor, which it is not. Maybe I've only really noticed it now, and are now noticing it more than before? I don't know. It does sound nice and deep, and very healthy, Just not used to it. I normally use to hear the sprocket and chain wizzing - which I now don't notice anymore. We are also entering Summer here in South Africa with temperatures ranging between 28 and 35 degrees. I don't know if this plays a role? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 I pulled my plug wires off with a pair of long needle nose pliers. Twist the boot left to right while pulling up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Dude all you need is this info right here: :wink: http://www.superblackbird.com/spark1.cfm And if I can get my big ole ham fist's in there and pull the spark plug boots off just about anyone can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Warchilds procedure from the previous link is great. Do watch the nuts that hold the coils. They can drop into places that you don't want. I would put clean rags or paper in the intakes to limit thing going inside. The plugs come pre-gapped. The standard feeler gauge is not to be used with the small electrodes. Manual says to torque to 12 N-m, or 1.2 kgf-m, or 9 lbf-ft. This is small. When you look at the threaded barrel of the plugs, you will know why. I used a 1/4 inch drive socket with extension to break the plugs loose. The plug wrench provided with the kit has the proper rubber insert to hold the plugs. I did remove the side covers and the covers on top of the ram air. I figured it was time to look for loose stuff and leaks. As for sounds. I have found that around 18K miles, the tone of the exhaust became deeper. Not bad, just deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 FYI I changed my plugs awhile back and noticed that my stock 2002 was running the Iridium NGK IMR9C-9H (mine was built in July,2001) Their site specifies the IMR9A-9H for 2001-2002 bikes Called them, the IMR9A-9H is being discontinued. Basically the same plug. the Pt is a slightly different shape. The 9C is suppose to wear better. db Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FloridaSilverBird Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 If your just going to prop the tank up with a 2x4 or something be careful. When I last changed my plugs the tank came crashing down a few times and scratched my frame under the tank. Maybe tie rags around the frame so that doesn't happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Remove the tank. Makes life tons easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Remove the tank. Makes life tons easier. +10000!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted October 21, 2005 Author Share Posted October 21, 2005 managed to do all the required maintenance, also seated the air intakes propperly, and found that the water bottle under the tank wasn't installed correctly. This is now also fixed. Why didn't anyone tell me that I only needed +- 15cm plug extension??? to get to the plugs. I went and got an arm length extension - normal bikes has the plugs so darn deep in the motor. - Not the XX. Pretty easy job to do, one or two small problems more with loosening pipes etc, but overall not as tough as i thought it was. The biggest work is to actually strip the fairing down so that you can get into everything, and then fitting the fairing again. Thanks for all the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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