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Group buy on HID


StPeteXX

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Can we still get this deal? Anyone... Anyone... Bueller?

Check out my last post (the last post befroe yours)... It looks like Andy was still honoring it as of late Feb/ early March... I'd email Andy and ask... Betcha he'll give you the same price still.

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Here is the latest:

From: Andy Chiu [anchiu35@hotmail.com]

Yes, we are offering H7 hi/low for your bike. Since the fuel surcharge has increased substantially for the past few months, please see below pricing.

Please send the payment to paypal address anchiu35@hotmail.com (No credit card payment, only instant transfer or echeck)

$195 for 4300K or 5300K or 3000K

$203 for 6000K (factory strongly recommended)

$208 for 8000K

Please send payment to paypal address hidseller@hotmail.com (By credit card payment)

$202 for 4300K or 5300K or 3000K (including paypal's fee)

$210 for 6000K (including paypal's fee) (factory strongly recommended)

$215 for 8000K (including paypal's fee)

PS: Please specify again your bulb type at the paypal note section

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Andy ( anchiu35@hotmail.com ) is still selling the kits. I bought another H7 4300K kit for $195 shipped. If you email him, he will send you back the pricing options available.

IMHO, the HID and modified suspension are two of the buy $ for $ mod's you can get for the birds.

-Obby

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Well i will be sending off an email tonight about the HID lights and was just wondering if im on the right track? I am not too concerned about the colour of the light i just want bang for my buck or light for my buck. i want to do both the hi and lo beam so do i go for a 4300 5300 6000 ???? so many options to choose from i have read this thread a few times now and i think i want to go for the 4300 if i want more light am i correct? I will probably ask these questions again to the seller tonight but i just want to know what im talking about before i start any info would be great.

Cheers

Marchy

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Well i will be sending off an email tonight about the HID lights and was just wondering if im on the right track? I am not too concerned about the colour of the light i just want bang for my buck or light for my buck. i want to do both the hi and lo beam so do i go for a 4300 5300 6000 ???? so many options to choose from i have read this thread a few times now and i think i want to go for the 4300 if i want more light am i correct? I will probably ask these questions again to the seller tonight but i just want to know what im talking about before i start any info would be great.

Cheers

Marchy

I actually had the 5300k on my '97XX. It had just hint of bluish/purple. This time I'm going with the more OEM style 4300k. They are just pure bright white. Either way, it will be night and day from what the stockers are offering.

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well its done i emailed him tonight and had a reply in 30 mins so i got paypal sorted and sent the cash $200 US delivered to AUS i am pretty happy as i had a look at a few aussie sites today and it would have cost me $500+ AUD to get one here. I went for the 4300 kit so i will have to wait and see how they are to install. I may even have my pipes back by then and i can put them on at the same time that would be cool.

Cheers

Marchy

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well its done i emailed him tonight and had a reply in 30 mins so i got paypal sorted and sent the cash $200 US delivered to AUS i am pretty happy as i had a look at a few aussie sites today and it would have cost me $500+ AUD to get one here. I went for the 4300 kit so i will have to wait and see how they are to install. I may even have my pipes back by then and i can put them on at the same time that would be cool.

Cheers

Marchy

You'll love them, install is a snap. Even I didn't screw it up. Here's some pics of the install I did on my '97.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...topic=25989&hl=

Ps.. I just used the packing material as a spacer between the base of the bulb and headlight housing. Some folks used rubber washer and stuff. You'll see.

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holy shit im in shock i ordered the kit on friday night as i stuffed the payment on thursday and i got home from work today and my neigbour said here is your parcel that arrived today! i cant beleive that it arrived so quick. oh well now i just need to find the time to install and im all good.

Cheers

Marchy

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Marchy,

You'll love the difference the upgrade makes. It's a night and day difference. As for the spacer recomendation, I used a peice of spark plug boot from an extra set of car wires I had laying around. I used a new razor blade and cut off about 3/16'' from the end, then I cut one side of the "ring" so I could easily slip it over the back of the lamp capsule. I like this method more than using a garden hose washer because the spark plug boot is silicone, not rubber and can take a LOT more heat without distorting. This spacer is used to take up the slack brtween the retaining clip and the portion of the back of the lamp capsule that sits in the headlight housing. Take your time with the install and don't be bashfull about taking off some body panels to run your wiring. Expect your first install time to be between 2-3 hours, but if you have had the bike's nose apart before, it may take less time for you. Good luck and enjoy.

Now I have to call Andy to order a kit for the Wife's new Lexus. POS came with regular halogens.

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Marchy,

You'll love the difference the upgrade makes. It's a night and day difference. As for the spacer recomendation, I used a peice of spark plug boot from an extra set of car wires I had laying around. I used a new razor blade and cut off about 3/16'' from the end, then I cut one side of the "ring" so I could easily slip it over the back of the lamp capsule. I like this method more than using a garden hose washer because the spark plug boot is silicone, not rubber and can take a LOT more heat without distorting. This spacer is used to take up the slack brtween the retaining clip and the portion of the back of the lamp capsule that sits in the headlight housing. Take your time with the install and don't be bashfull about taking off some body panels to run your wiring. Expect your first install time to be between 2-3 hours, but if you have had the bike's nose apart before, it may take less time for you. Good luck and enjoy.

Now I have to call Andy to order a kit for the Wife's new Lexus. POS came with regular halogens.

FYI,

What makes a better spacer than a sparkplug boot is cutting the middle (plug part) out of the stock spacer and putting it in there... fits up almost factory...

Mike

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Perhaps the fastest, cleanest method: two common garden hose washers. They are a perfect ft, as you can see:

IPB Image

I mounted one ballast behind the headlamp assembly:

IPB Image

The other ballast/ignitor was mounted to the instrument panel sub-frame, firmly attached with zip tips (2 yellow arrows)

IPB Image

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Dale,

Can you still turn the headlight aiming adjuster knob? It looks like the transformer housing might have created a slight interference problem with the lower(in the picture) knob? :icon_wall:

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Dale,

Can you still turn the headlight aiming adjuster knob? It looks like the transformer housing might have created a slight interference problem with the lower(in the picture) knob? :icon_wall:

Nope, it spins just fine, though as you can see, it does come very close.

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Thanks for the tips on installing i may have a crack at it tomorrow as i have a day off but i may spend that riding if the weather is good and wait for a shit day to do the install the bike may also be going back to the shop for a new CCT at just 1300 Ks I had heard the CCT was a weakness but i thought it would do a bit more than 1300 Ks from brand new!!!! oh well warranty is a wonderful thing.

Cheers

Marchy

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well it just keeps getting better and better well apart from the girlfriend telling me to go get F&%# and moving out Whole different story. I went to work today and well there was nothing to do so i came back home and grabbed my new lights went back to work and started looking around to see what i would need to do..... Ah bugger it ill do it now i said and soon after it was all done well nearly just need to take it apart and make sure its all ok no wires etc in harms way all insulated etc as i did it all just by removing the wind sheild and the two small side bits it was easy enough to do just very tight but ill make sure its all good tonight after footy training i noticed the difference riding home in daylight so i cant wait to see how it is at night. Thanks again everyone for your advice as for the spacers i went with the washers as i had some sitting around.

Cheers

Marchy

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Put mine in on Saturday after pacing an 80 mile bike race with a 6' 1' 200lb photographer on the back (XX worked great).

Lights are Excellent and I now need to aim them property. Was able to attach the e-boxes to the headlight and snorkles with double sided tape only (the nice Wurth Automotive stuff) and the install is pretty clean and easy to reverse.

Very happy!

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Just thought I'd add a comment here: If you are using HID for both low and high beams, wait until the low beam has been on for 15 seconds or so before turning on the high beam. I made the mistake of starting my bike with the high beam on and blew the 20A headlight fuse, which also powers the instrument cluster lights (2003 model).

The lights draw between 15 and 20 amps for a short time after turn on before dropping down to 3 amps or so, which means it's pretty easy to blow the fuse if you aren't careful.

BTW, replacing the fuse at night in a dark place was NOT fun.

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Just thought I'd add a comment here: If you are using HID for both low and high beams, wait until the low beam has been on for 15 seconds or so before turning on the high beam. I made the mistake of starting my bike with the high beam on and blew the 20A headlight fuse, which also powers the instrument cluster lights (2003 model).

The lights draw between 15 and 20 amps for a short time after turn on before dropping down to 3 amps or so, which means it's pretty easy to blow the fuse if you aren't careful.

BTW, replacing the fuse at night in a dark place was NOT fun.

Good point. I have noticed that on my '99, if I startup with HB on, the low beam flickers a bit unitl warmed up. I suspect a voltage drop firing them both up at idle. Seems fine with HB off and then on after 15 secs as you noted.

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