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What's the deal with the 1st to 2nd clunk?


Two4One

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Guest rockmeupto125
Well, "clunk" and "grind" can be interchanged I suppose. Depends on the situation and your use of the word.  

So you're going clutchless rockmeupto125? I think I've been spoiled by the 1000rr, that thing is like butter compared to the XX.  

Are my findings normal though?

Not using the clutch is fine, unless you are trying to force the shift lever under power...that just bends shifter forks. Light pull, let off the throttle a bit and the gearbox should shift right up.

Yes, its a big clunky Honda gearbox. Bear in mind that this is the same transmission that transfers 500 horsepower to the ground for dragracing purposes...the only changes they make are to undercut the dogs. So you've got a stout pile of metal to move around in there.

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  • 7 months later...
Well, "clunk" and "grind" can be interchanged I suppose. Depends on the situation and your use of the word.

So you're going clutchless rockmeupto125? I think I've been spoiled by the 1000rr, that thing is like butter compared to the XX.

Are my findings normal though?

I put 20W50 in for the summer. I needed to change the oil to ease my mind since I don't know what the previous owner/dealership did with it.

I adjusted the balancers and mine stated to shift way better!! read the manual and it will explain! :) Hope this helps

balancers, can someone explain further please, i am still having serious clonking grinding, smooth as silk when cold really rough when it gets hotter, i use 10W40 motul FS oil and it seemed to get worse when I changed oil, don't know what was in before, i know honda's clonk but this is beyond that, sometimes it stops in neutral between 1st 2nd shift and i just can't get 2nd unless i stop, when stationary there is no clonk into 1st but i have to release the clutch a little to get it to move trough the gears, i'll bet there is something needs adjusting but i can't think what it could be.

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The engine in the XX is hard mounted to the frame, absolutely no rubber isolation, not typical of other bikes. So any noises or clunks are amplified in relation to the same noises or clunks on other bikes. Which is why the clunk seems louder on the XX.

Also, what is this clutch thing you all are talking about when shifting?

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Clunk?

Hell, you guys don't know nothin' about clunk. I've been riding BMW and Moto Guzzi bikes for the last 20 years.

It really is about technique more than anything. I will agree that the transmission shifts better when cold than hot but that, to me, points to the need for heavier oil. A 15w50 being probably the best comprimise.

Try the following as I have had good success getting smooth shifts with this method. When shifting from 1st to 2nd you are dealing with the widest ratio spread in the transmission and as such, RPM matching is more critical.

To begin with, take your revs a bit higher than normal, say >5000.

Now, just before you shift, apply a little preload on the lever. Not a lot but a bit of upward pressure with that left toe.

As you begin to disengage the clutch, just slightly drop the revs, don't turn the throttle full off and more or less fan the clutch lever. That is, quickly move it a bit inward and then outward. The shift should be smooth as silk after a little experimentation with how much throttle movement and how quick/deep a fan you apply.

Part of the problem is that compared to other bikes, there is not very much flywheel inertia available and the engine revs, on a shift, can easily drop below the point where the shift dogs will smoothly engage. By letting the engine maintain a bit more revs with the throttle, you help that situation greatly. You are not performing a full throttle power shift here, more getting the throttle position to more closely match what it would be for that speed in second gear.

Work on it a bit, it'll come.

PS, if you are wearing boots or shoes with a soft top, change to a firmer boot. It really helps to have a positive force transfer from the foot to the lever.

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should it really be that difficult to change gear on a bike, i have riden many and the xx gives me a lot of grief, but i do understand what you are getting at, i think thicker none FS oil will help, pity to waste the oil change from last month but i'm not happy so it has to go, i will keep it if there is no improvement and use again.

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Well I don't agree that it would make that much of a difference but curiosity will get the best of me eventually. Not trying to argue but based on prior experience the 20w has been fine???

Heavier oil will amplify the clunk..heres why...

(I think)

Theoretically the mainshaft should stop spinning when you pull in the clutch. In reality it doesnt. The weight of the gears, clutch and oil cause drag on it and keeps it spinning. Thicker oil will cause these parts to stay spinning faster and for longer so a subsequent shifts makes engaging gears harder.

Its the same reason most bikes clunk going into first from a stop. You pull in the clutch but the mainshaft still spins slightly, but the countershaft is not.

Or something like that

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Mike,

I would say you are correct on the engagement of 1st gear from a stop and wrong on the 1-2 shift thing. On my bike, which has BMW 20w50 in it cause that's what I had available when I changed the oil, it is true that I need to pause a bit longer after pulling in the clutch to engage first.

It is also true that I found the 1-2 shift to be smoother. This may, in part, be due to increased experience with the transmission. I have only had the bike for 6 weeks (4000 miles).

I have resigned myself to the fact that this transmission just isn't going to be as smooth shifting as the one in my VFR. I can live with that.

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What's the deal with the 1st to 2nd clunk?

I hate that sound it usually means my passenger fell off :twisted:

Usually the rest of the ride is much quieter afterwards, too....

I highly recommend it, actually.

:wink:

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Ok, I have tried to stay out of this thead but don't they normally use 80/90 in transmisions? What is all this lighter oil. I use 10/40 myself, but that is inspite of the gears not because of it.

The transmission on the Blackbird and about 90% of the bikes in the world is lubricated by the same oil as the engine. They share a lubricant. On my BMW's and Guzzi, which have separate transmissions, I use 75w140 full synthetic.

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:lol::lol::lol:

I am new to the BB,,just bought an 02 with 3,000k

I don't have any clunks or wierd sounds from my bike...

BUT I was out riding with Willxx23 and he had a strange

clunk come from below his BB when he passed over the

Harley rider. We went back to check and it must of happened

when the BB exhaust hit the Hardley riders helmet.

Hope that helps....! :shock:

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:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  

I am new to the BB,,just bought an 02 with 3,000k  

I don't have any clunks or wierd sounds from my bike...

BUT I was out riding with Willxx23 and he had a strange

clunk come from below his BB when he passed over the  

Harley rider. We went back to check and it must of happened

when the BB exhaust hit the Hardley riders helmet.

Hope that helps....!   :shock:

Just saw this:

Thats it Tom I'm not riding with you anymore..... =; :lol::P

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my gear change definately gets way worse as the bike heats up, it becomes very difficult to go from 1st to 2nd without bouncing off, this is either due to the oil thinning at high temp or something in the box needs attention, i use motul 10W40 fully synth and run in a hot climate 80+ my problems are worst after siting in traffic for long periods, the ws manual states oil thickness as a possible cause for poor gear selection, but doesn't say whether thinner oil causes problems or thicker, i am changing to a semi synth 20W50 tomorrow and also doig a few other things like bleeding the clutch, will post my findings in a few days.

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1st to 2nd clunk=basically you don`t know how to shift gears.

That is all. :D:D

Many riders fail to understand that motorcycles don`t have synchros,just dogs.You are doing the gearbox any favor by slow shifts.

Anything that you learned from cars with stick does not apply to motorcycles or semis.

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