86gn Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 A two page thread on how to change oil :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 But I would never recommend someone do it without replacing the washer ($ 0.25). Oil pans are too expensive. Maybe I'm missing something or am stupid, but I've never replaced the crush washer on any vehicle and have never once had a leak, or lost a drain bolt, or hurt an oil pan. Like I said, maybe I'm dumb, 'cause I just don't get it... I worked at a Honda car shop for two years. We sold an oil pan a month. and these things were in the $200-300 neighborhood. These are steel oil pans, with a weld nut, albeit thin wall, to hold the drain plug. These people would take the car to Jiffy Lube to change the oil, and the monkeys would overtorque the plugs. I had a guy ask me, "If it's a crush washer, shouldn't you crush it?" :roll: Bad design? Maybe. We never had a problem with our techs, but they used new crush washers on each and every oil change. It is massively easy to overtorque a steel plug into an aluminum casting. Where I'm at, the plugs cost 25c to a buck, depending on where you get them. What does a CBR oil pan cost? IMO, it is foolish to reuse a crush washer, for the very reason mentioned in this thread. But it sounds like it's not biting people like I figured it would. I still stand by my recommendation. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 We had a guy at the dealership that was notorious for over-torquing drain plugs. Thankfully, he only destroyed the plugs on the steel-panned vehicles, but managed to strip a few aluminum ones, as well. :roll: On the bike, I used to never remove the fairings, but the odd time you'll get some oil on them, so I remove them now for the sake of cleanliness. Plus, when have you ever been in that much of a hurry to change your oil? :? FWIW, I'm on my original crush washer, as well, @ 32K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlasticxxHead Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Hey floridasilverbud..... If you can't get to Rick's to use his stands .. Just lay the bike on it's side... give you great access to the drain plug .. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FloridaSilverBird Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 is it all a drain access problem, or is it that all the oil will not come out if I use the sidestand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 IMO, it is foolish to reuse a crush washer, for the very reason mentioned in this thread. J. Maybe it's just that I've never over tightened the plug, AFAIK. I've never felt a need to really "bear down" on the drain plug when putting it back in, so I guess that's why I've never had a problem. Other folks' MMV, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed99 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 is it all a drain access problem, or is it that all the oil will not come out if I use the sidestand? Its just access. The job is really simple. Like others have said, the hardest part is getting a grip on the filter in order to get it off the bike. And that's not really that hard either...jut harder than the other steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Maybe it's just that I've never over tightened the plug, AFAIK. I've never felt a need to really "bear down" on the drainplug when putting it back in, so I guess that's why I've never had a problem. Other folks' MMV, I suppose. I've never had a problem with the XX pan, but then I'm careful when it comes to oil drain plugs. I torque them when I can, but if I can't, I'll use a stubby wrench or choke up on a standard wrench. I have a spare pan that has a hole in it. I should go torque it to failing and see how much it took. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdsw60 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I also have a aftermarket exhaust. I just put the centerstand back on the bike for oil changes, chain adjustment/lube ect. Then remove it when I'm finished. No big deal. I also replace the crush washer each time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Well, I might as well add to the 2 page oil change thread. 85 V65 Sabre, 72k miles, same crush washer. XX at 55k miles, same crush washer. I always pull left side of fairing. It's in the way and I clean all spilled oil of the block and check for leaks when done. How do you do that with all of the fairing on? On bikes without a centerstand is the drain hole at the left bottom of the pan or not? I never owned one. You might want to do your draining on the sidestand then when just dripping, hold bike upright and see if you get more out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 You might want to do your draining on the sidestand then when just dripping, hold bike upright and see if you get more out. Before I used a shopstand, and didn't feel like putting the centerstand on, I did it this way. It would pour forth, but not much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly By Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Can anybody give me good, simple instructions on how to change the oil in my Bird Do a search and find Warchild's instructions on how to change the oil on the 'Bird. Changed mine about a month ago following his instructions and they were dead on. I even was a good boy and changed the washer for the first time. Everything you need to know is in his write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHaul Posted May 28, 2005 Share Posted May 28, 2005 Using a new crush washer or old, one can still over torque the plug and strip the pan. Just don't over torque. J, I WOULD like you to strip that old pan and post the torque. I use a vise grip that has long curved jaws to break the oil filter loose. I bearly clamp down on the filter. It doesn't take much. I just hand tighten when I install them so they almost come off by hand anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1K Posted May 28, 2005 Share Posted May 28, 2005 Using a new crush washer or old, one can still over torque the plug and strip the pan. Ya don't say! :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D2 Posted May 28, 2005 Share Posted May 28, 2005 My honda manual says oil drain plug is torqued to 22 lb-ft. where does this 9 lbs come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Here are good instructions: http://superblackbird.com/oil_change.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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