spybirdxx Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Can anybody give me good, simple instructions on how to change the oil in my Bird. This will be my first time so I don't want to mess it up. I found a pretty simple way to do it on the superblackbird.com site. Does anyone else change their oil that way? No fairing removal sounds pretty good to me. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Park bike on 2x4s (to allow for clearance of oil pan and lower fairing) Put on centerstand or shop stand. Remove oil drain plug and drain oil into pan. Remove oil filter (access is from below fairing) Fill new filter to brim once with new oil and allow to soak into media. Lube oil filter seal with new oil. Install new crush washer when installing oil drain plug, after oil has drained completely. Torque 9 ft.-lbs. Do not overtorque. Install new oil filter and tighten until snug. Do not use wrench, do make sure is clean to get a good grip with hands. Fill with oil. Start engine. Verify oil level. Check for leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass, are you expecting some other magic answer? Yes, most everyone changes their oil and filter from the bottom without removing the fairing pieces. You usually need a good filter removal tool. Rubber straps are not a good filter removal tool. Follow Honda's instructions, and replace your crush washer on your drain plug with every change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 In 57,000 miles on my former XX, I never replaced the crush washer, just an fyi. It is required in the manual but in real life, I would call it only recommended if that. MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 In 57,000 miles on my former XX, I never replaced the crush washer, just an fyi. It is required in the manual but in real life, I would call it only recommended if that.MaXX A good mechanic can do it without, I'll agree. Good mechanic = torque wrench or calibrated hand. But I would never recommend someone do it without replacing the washer ($ 0.25). Oil pans are too expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 I've only done about 8 oil changes in my 15K on my '02, but I've never replaced the crush washer either. As long as you don't over torque it, it doesn't seem to get damaged and I've never had any leaks or issues, nor has my oil drain bolt ever loosened up on me. I can't seem to get with the "fairings on" oil change though, and I usually pull my left side plastics, but that's just me. If you can do it without pulling the plastics, more power to ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 2x4 under the centerstand is a good idea. It's a little tight under there with the height of my drain pan. Great tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 I dont have any washer on my drain plug, never had a leak. Do check the oil filter area to make sure none of the gasket material stuck to the engine block. :idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 In 57,000 miles on my former XX, I never replaced the crush washer, just an fyi. It is required in the manual but in real life, I would call it only recommended if that.MaXX A good mechanic can do it without, I'll agree. Good mechanic = torque wrench or calibrated hand. But I would never recommend someone do it without replacing the washer ($ 0.25). Oil pans are too expensive. Don't you ever accuse me of being a good mechanic. I prefer lucky!!! Seriously though, it is like the rear sprocket on the XX, I just don't replace them...until really worn or I have to. Plus, I stopped doing it when I went to the Stealership, bought a washer, it was the wrong fucking one, took the other off already, had to drive back....just saves me the headache of dealing with jackoff's. MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1K Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Torque 9 ft.-lbs. Do not overtorque. :mrgreen: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 WE're not professionals here, only Bird riders. I might suggest speakign with the professionals at Wal-mart they've help some of the other Bird owners... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spybirdxx Posted May 26, 2005 Author Share Posted May 26, 2005 Thanks for the advice folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Warm the bike up before you drain your oil. Hot oil drains better and more completely than cold oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 The reason they call it a crush washer, is that it is designed to compress a little when you tighten it to proper specs. This performs two functions. 1. It distorts and forms a custom seal between the pan and the plug. 2. Because it is under tension, it functions as a lock washer, even under the light torque that you use with the drain plug. Oil drains need a light torque load because they are are designed to screw in and out many times over their lifetime. If you reuse a crush washer a couple times, it gets squashed flat and then it's just another fuckin washer. It no longer does the job it was designed for. You might as well take it off. It's the same principal used by the washers that are supplied with spark plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 ....but if it works just fine for 10-15 changes, you CAN leave it alone. All of that is fine and at a quarter a piece, not much of a hassle if you live right next to the dealer. With that being said, if you don't want to change it, you CAN leave it alone. MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 If you have one of those automotive metal band oil filter tools you can grind teh edges off so it will fit between header and the filter. The hardest part is to get a proper filter tool to break it loose, everything else is a snap. I never had to loose fairing bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X1rider Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 I have been riding for nearly 30 years and have replaced the crush washer once or twice, on bikes that I bought used. I don't see the need to replace it. Of course, I have very accurate, in constant calibration, 48 year old digits that perform wonderfully. Also, should you need any cast aluminum part TIG welded, I am the guy to call. Or email. heliarctig@comcast.net Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FloridaSilverBird Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 ok damnit, I wasn't planning on changing my oil until today or tomorrow (ie, after I installed the custom exhaust) and I had to get rid of my center stand.. :roll: Any recommendations on how I should stand the XX when draining oil? I don't suppose leaving it on the sidestand would be ok..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 ok damnit, I wasn't planning on changing my oil until today or tomorrow (ie, after I installed the custom exhaust) and I had to get rid of my center stand.. :roll: Any recommendations on how I should stand the XX when draining oil? I don't suppose leaving it on the sidestand would be ok..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 :lmao: Tie it off to two trees, garage studs, car doors whatever so it's sitting up straight. Or have your brothers hold it up straight while you burn the back of your hand on the header :twisted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed99 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 ok damnit, I wasn't planning on changing my oil until today or tomorrow (ie, after I installed the custom exhaust) and I had to get rid of my center stand.. :roll: Any recommendations on how I should stand the XX when draining oil? I don't suppose leaving it on the sidestand would be ok..? Just run it over to my house. I have a swingarm stand you can use and all the necessary tools. I did mine last week. Seriously, anytime you like, just give me a ring. Also...if you can't get it high enough, taking the fairing off is really no big deal. Adds 10 mins max to the task. (Time for another beer) :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I agree with Mac 50k miles... oil changes every 3-4k, never replaced the crush washer yet, no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 taking the fairing off is really no big deal. Adds 10 mins max to the task. Yep. I always pull the left fairing when I change the oil. Sounds like I'm in the minority reading this thread, but the three minutes it takes to remove seems worth not having to work around it to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed99 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Rich, I agree...meant to add that. I have never replaced the crush washer and never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 But I would never recommend someone do it without replacing the washer ($ 0.25). Oil pans are too expensive. Maybe I'm missing something or am stupid, but I've never replaced the crush washer on any vehicle and have never once had a leak, or lost a drain bolt, or hurt an oil pan. Like I said, maybe I'm dumb, 'cause I just don't get it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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