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The end of Mobil 1 15-50 as we know it???


Pete in PA

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I never for the life of me understood why the manual says to change the oil every 8,000 miles.

Car manuals say the same thing...it's because the manufacturers want a "window" of life expectancy from their engines.

Hell, if every single person on the planet drove their cars for 300,000 miles before they started wearing out, the manufacturers wouldn't sell as many cars! So they recommend late oil change intervals & late plug changes, so the internals & ignition systems wear out at about 100,000 miles on the nose.

Lately I've heard of manufacturers claiming you don't have to change a plug for 70,000 miles...or longer! It's a spark plug, people! I don't care how high tech that little bastard is, it's going to wear out before 70,000 miles & the rest of the ignition system is going to be required to jump this massive gap for the last 50,000 miles of that time...shit's gonna break & the unwitting owner is going to trade that thing in.

Just apply this rant to bikes...if they don't wear out, you won't want to buy a new one, will you?

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That is a good point...I was also thinking that the less you change your oil the less there is to dispose of which makes sense because Honda is already waaay overboard with enviornmental issues.

I suppose the Rotella would work for me but I'm looking for something I know is going to be available in a few years.

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You have me worried with the sparkplug post.

The plugs in my Lumina are still in there, per the manual at 98K miles. I've already got the new ones, just waiting for a warmer day to do them.

I don't think I'll find worn off nubs though they are platinum.

Funny, I asked at Advance Auto for AC plugs, found out platinum is no longer available (no surprise) and got Iridiums. On the porcelin it says AC Delco, on the metal it says NGK. :lol: AC is out of the sparkplug business.

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You have me worried with the sparkplug post.

The plugs in my Lumina are still in there, per the manual at 98K miles. I've already got the new ones, just waiting for a warmer day to do them.

I don't think I'll find worn off nubs though they are platinum.

Funny, I asked at Advance Auto for AC plugs, found out platinum is no longer available (no surprise) and got Iridiums. On the porcelin it says AC Delco, on the metal it says NGK. :lol: AC is out of the sparkplug business.

I changed the plugs on my Lumina at 69K and they were in bad shape. They are also a pain in the ass to change since you have to roll the engine forward.

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I suppose the Rotella would work for me but I'm looking for something I know is going to be available in a few years.

Should be, it's main reason in life is for big work diesels (e.g. over the road stuff), so there is a sizeable market for it. And besides, Mobil has a virtually identical product (diesel 5w-40 syn), it's a more expense and not available at Wallyworld last time I check.

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Well I just got done changing the plugs in the Z34 Lumina. Took about 2 hours in a balmy 25 deg. outside.

At 98K miles the plugs weren't bad. The platinum did its job. The 2 plugs that were a bit past .060 gap make me think they weren't gapped right at the factory.

A real bitch pulling the plug wires off without damaging them. Had to pull the 2 bolts in the dogbones and pivot the engine forward to do the right side plugs. (the ones under the windshield.)

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Car manuals say the same thing...it's because the manufacturers want a "window" of life expectancy from their engines.  

Hell, if every single person on the planet drove their cars for 300,000 miles before they started wearing out, the manufacturers wouldn't sell as many cars! So they recommend late oil change intervals & late plug changes, so the internals & ignition systems wear out at about 100,000 miles on the nose.

Lately I've heard of manufacturers claiming you don't have to change a plug for 70,000 miles...or longer! It's a spark plug, people! I don't care how high tech that little bastard is, it's going to wear out before 70,000 miles & the rest of the ignition system is going to be required to jump this massive gap for the last 50,000 miles of that time...shit's gonna break & the unwitting owner is going to trade that thing in.

Just apply this rant to bikes...if they don't wear out, you won't want to buy a new one, will you?

Ok, yeah... however, when was the last time you actually wore out an engine? The only time I've ever experienced internal engine failure was when the oil pump went out on an '87 Pontiac Grand Am. I had a '98 BMW 540 that got oil changes approximately ever 15,000 miles, and it ran as good as ever with 130,000 miles on the engine.

I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm under the impression that oil doesn't just stop being oil when you hit XXXX miles. The main issue, from what I understand, is making sure the oil is being filtered efficiently. I'd almost bet that the oil we put in our bikes, even crappy oil, will be good for longer than the filters we use.

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i dont know where you heard that but i have been using it for ten years and would not use any thing else in anything i have

i drive 75000 miles a year and run the bypass oil filters and run 25000 per oil change.yes i know what you are going to say but i put 300000 per vehicle and have 4 full time company vehicles and have never had to add oil per oil change and never had a motor die. buy it direct and get a good price about 3.50 per qt .

never heard amway but heard nasa developed it

i will check their site

will call them tomorrow

no amway people ever tried to sell me it

let me know where you heard that

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I have heard that from MANY sources, incluing Amway people themselves. A few years ago Amway, knowing it's name was synonomous for deception, decided it was best to form a side company which sold the same products under a diferent name, also trying to shun the reputation it had... this I know due to several people calling me trying to recruit me (and, of course, my wife at the time). Ask Amway people, or those who sell it and they MAY tell you, or they may wish to not assume association with Amway by divulging. I have several people from teh ST forum that have ofered to seel this to me but I will stay with Mobil 1, not because I believe it's the best but because it works fine and it's simple to change out every 5K.. I wouldn't hesitate in using Rotella, Castrol Syntec, or others once my Mobil 1 runs out.

AMSOIL - "Amway's oil". Supposedly a great product, many think better than Mobil 1 or equivalents, but I am again told that it is a product of Amway so I have NO interest in supporting even if it is the cure for cancer, world hunger, and swarms of locust.

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just checked and it is not associated in any way with amway

it is related in only one way and that is multilevel marketing

application only

not available through amway

perod

stan

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Yes, the changing of ones oil is the one single best thing one can do for the longevity of a motor.

However, if ne has to put forth a choice.

AMSOIL 10W40. Put this stuff in the bike in the spring of 2004.

It's still clean, the trans still shifts with incredible eaze, and the temp gage

still shows a cooler operating temp.

Mobil 1, this petrolium/synthetic blend. Is just copying Amsoils marketing with their sad attempt at offering an extended drain interval.

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I use Castrol RX SUPER 15W40 (for diesel) in my GoldWing & XX :)

I use Castrol Synthec 5W50 in my R6 (ride at higher RPM!) :shock:

I can get both at Costco for decent price!

12 liters of Castrol RX Super 15W40 for $26.99 CAN

6 liters of Castrol Synthec 5W50 for $28.99 CAN

I've used Shell Rotella S/B 10W40 with good results.

BTW, I SPORT tour on my bikes and never REV close to the red line!

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A few years ago Castrol decided to market a synthetic.

Mobil suide.

Why, well Castrol was calling their oil a full synthetic and it actually is made with a petrolium base stock.

Mobil lost, so in the interest of paying the lawyers and the corp execs more money, they decided to join Castrol and manufacture their oil with a Petrolium base stock.

So we have a blend.

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what i know amsoil use to be amzoil until amway sued and lost over conflict but amzoil changed to amsoil to remove the confusion. not sure of the facts just a memory from the distributer here who got me my corporate account in 86. i also believe amsoil is the only true syn oil now.

nasa developed it for the shuttle i think.

also amway does sell an oil but not amsoil.

you wont believe what i am running in the bird due to the extreem use and config but i run a 1 inch thick pan for clearance with baffels (see my picks) due to the massive g's i experience. i run 6 qts of 20/50 racing amsoil and 2 qts 80 wt gear oil. just to help with understanding i run a 1 qt canton accusump and the lines make up another 1/2 qt in a dry engine. yes the bank angle sensor is disabled.

i only use the clutch for stop/start.

change the filter often, test the oil, tore down the motor three times to check for damage this summer, two damaged due to spun bearings with mobil 1 before i changed to this setup,no damage after going to baffel and accusump and oil mix and clutch works without grabbing,and shifts great.

not for normal use of course just info for extreem use.

for those who dont know i ride in the sand hills very fast for long time and hot weather. typical ride last for over an hour in the 60 mile per hour average speed. lot of banks and jumps and long straights to 5th gear.

no i am geared way down,,,,,,14/58 and 15/58

normal high perf quads just dont do it for me

this one is close

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