AQUAMAX

Wow, that's surely better than I expected! I was thinking something like the little nub of an arc welder rod when it's done. :grin: Have you owned the car since new?

Whatever...you'll probably find out you've got a gap big enough to stick your pinky finger in! You should probably change your plug wires while you're at it.

Car manuals say the same thing...it's because the manufacturers want a "window" of life expectancy from their engines. Hell, if every single person on the planet drove their cars for 300,000 miles before they started wearing out, the manufacturers wouldn't sell as many cars! So they recommend late oil change intervals & late plug changes, so the internals & ignition systems wear out at about 100,000 miles on the nose. Lately I've heard of manufacturers claiming you don't have to change a plug for 70,000 miles...or longer! It's a spark plug, people! I don't care how high tech that little bastard is, it's going to wear out before 70,000 miles & the rest of the ignition system is going to be required to jump this massive gap for the last 50,000 miles of that time...shit's gonna break & the unwitting owner is going to trade that thing in. Just apply this rant to bikes...if they don't wear out, you won't want to buy a new one, will you?

That is fawking COOL!! :shock: I'd ride that right friggin' now...me likey!

Here's a site comparing lots of oils & additives; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ He doesn't test it in motorcycles per se, but you can still get a good idea of the differences in oils. Synthetics are better hands down over non-synthetics...but regardless of what oil you run, regular oil change intervals are still the key to a long lasting engine.

I can't believe nobody as said SELL IT yet...you guys are slipping. :???: :grin: Have you had a chance to check fuel pressure yet? Some parts stores will rent pressure gauges. If I recall, the cam gear has nylon teeth & after say...129,999.9 miles or so, they become brittle & can shear off, causing the chain to slip a few teeth. If you pull #1 spark plug out & crank it around to top dead center (put finger over plug hole), look at your timing marks...it should be really close to zero, then pop your distributor cap off & see if the rotor is pointing toward #1 plug wire. If there's practically no compression when cranking (finger over plug hole), that's a good indicator that the chain has slipped.

If you have a bike shop nearby, they should be able to load test it for you...that will tell if there's a weak cell or not. How long was the battery dead before you charged it? If it was only a couple hours or so, it should be ok...if it sat longer than a day while being dead, it might not come back fully.

Make sure you lay down plenty of rags, so you don't end up removing any paint.

SELL IT & BUY A V-MAX! I've never had either problem you describe. :grin:

It's so your computer can more accurately adjust the advance on the ignition timing...& no, it won't run very well without it...if at all.

Of course it's good! This is my first step toward shaking that bad rap I've gotten about only being here for the NWS!

Me too. When I bought my bike it had a plug in the rear tire (tire was almost done anyway) it held fine, but I always had that thing pictured in my mind when I was on the freeway. :???: A while later (new tire), I developed a slow leak while on a trip with my wife...it stranded us in the middle of the night...silly me, I didn't have a plug kit onboard. Now I do, but haven't had to use it once in 6 years...which is good, I guess.

Shock (rear) or fork (front)? I'm gonna go out on a limb here & guess FORK! In which case, probably a 5w oil.