speedygeezer Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Changed oil and filter on my 99 Bird at 14,100 miles. Added Mobil 1 15/50, Honda filter. Sold bike to fella in Tucson last May with request to change oil when it had 10,000 miles on it. New owner drained oil at 21,436 miles - 7336 miles on the oil - said the suspense was killing him and couldn't wait any longer. Sent oil sample to ANA Labs in NJ. Analysis indicates overall satisfactory conditions - ANA's statement, not mine. IOW, oil was good for continued use. My '00 Bird now has 8200 miles on Shell Rotella 15/40. I will change it at 10,000 miles and have it analyzed also. Will post report when that happens. Happy New Year! And don't forget to change the oil in your vehicles every 3000 miles like the oil companies and "expert" mechanics tell you to. :roll: Flame on, gents..... :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 I am running Mobil 1 15/50 also. I noticed the jug says to change the oil every 3-5K miles. Kinda a big range, but I guess it should be more like 8-10K miles The suspense kills me too, I routinely change with around 2K miles, it just makes me feel better :roll: Thanks for sharing your findings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I would never go over 2000 mile on any oil. I too use Shell Rotella 5/40 but with the high heat here in summer IMO 2000 miles is plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Changed oil and filter on my 99 Bird at 14,100 miles. Added Mobil 1 15/50, Honda filter. Sold bike to fella in Tucson last May with request to change oil when it had 10,000 miles on it. New owner drained oil at 21,436 miles - 7336 miles on the oil - said the suspense was killing him and couldn't wait any longer. Sent oil sample to ANA Labs in NJ. Analysis indicates overall satisfactory conditions - ANA's statement, not mine. IOW, oil was good for continued use. My '00 Bird now has 8200 miles on Shell Rotella 15/40. I will change it at 10,000 miles and have it analyzed also. Will post report when that happens. Happy New Year! And don't forget to change the oil in your vehicles every 3000 miles like the oil companies and "expert" mechanics tell you to. :roll: Flame on, gents..... :grin: No flaming from me. Thanks a lot for the data. I was using Mobil for a while and then switched to 5W Rotella. I look forward to your report. :cheers: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 http://autos.msn.com/volvo/article.aspx?co...ntentid=4022672 This is on car oil, but I think the basic idea still crosses the bike/car line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severdog Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I agree that most decent oils will last a lot longer than we give them credit for....however I usually change oil based on feel, and not mileage. Somewhere north of 2500 miles, the bike will start to shift "tight". It just gets more notchy and doesn't have that smooth "snick snick" feel any more. I've noticed that going to an expensive MC-specific oil delays this some....but in almost every case I'm changing it before 5k miles. But I wouldn't hesitate to use M1 red cap, Shell 15W-40 Rotella dino, Rotella synth, Delvac 1300, etc etc as long as it doesn't have friction modfiers. Thanks for the analysis to confirm what we always suspected! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I change oil on a very strict and scientific "sorta 6k" basis. Around 6k miles I start thinking about it, and planning to buy some stuff like a filter and the oil. Then I get a round tuit, and actually do it some time in the next 100-2000 miles. This methodology was fine for 130k miles on my last bike (an air-cooled Suzuki 1100). A guy bought it to put the motor in a buggy. He sent me the bearings and they looked fine, worn as expected for 130k miles of raping in the desert, but fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 There must be high mileage bikes using normal oil. I have what....70k km's on my engine and have always used Honda's g4 or whatever their base motor oil is. I'm not planning on starting an oil arguement, but what again is the pro's of the synthetic? Other than longer life (which according to posts, isn't an issue cuz people are changing it regularly). I know I can do a search, but peoples impressions change. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Everyone can do what they want but I sleep better after changing my oil. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Synthetic oils are more stable by design, and better fit the application they were designed for, not refined for. For the same reason top racing classes now race on synthetic rubber compounds. I was using synthetic Mobil 15-50 in my engine, prior to the overhaul. My engine builder kept questioning how many km's were on it, as it showed almost no wear (38K km). Since the overhaul, I've broken it in on Quaker State 10W40 Motorcycle oil, and will be running it on 5W40 synthetic (Mobil if I can find it, or Amsoil). From what I've heard/read, 15-50 is just too thick for normal applications. That viscosity would be more suited to a hot climate & extreme use (long runs), where oil temperature is expected to be higher than usual. FWIW, I change it regularly, as well. 3K miles or thereabouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I'm going to see if I can find Mobil 1 syn, truck/SUV oil. I think it's a 5-40. Heard it's relabled delvac 1 oil, best stuff around. If it's price is good I'll try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: All of it! I just love reading the cronicals of Man and Oil. Fukin Shit Cracks me Up! "Flame on Bitches!" should be the caption, and I have to admit.... I have never found a larger group of backyard oil analysist anywhere. Joe.... I will love to read those numbers, if you can post them, you will get a print out won't you. I'm sure your oil will be fine.... it's your soot and anti-acid levels I'm curious about. Sorry I'm still giggling. And once agaian.... Chris is faceing the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 What would a serious oil thread be without the usual comment: "I use WD40 in my motor, mixed 50/50 with canola oil and it has been running very well for the last 2 months." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 The Shell Rotella 5w-40 is in a blue jug isn't it? I was thinking about trying that at my 12k miles service. Oh yeah we send samples off at work.. Trust me.. the sample will show wear, dirt, and all other crap in PPM. Good info.. Wasn't to handy when we had a Caterpiller 980 loader loose a motor.. $50,000 motor went *knock, knock* *BOOM* even after the sample showed everything to be doing great about 30 hrs prior. They are good for what has happened, and let you know of some wear, but can't predict how long a engine will last.. My truck is every 5k nothing but a 18 mile backroads communte Bike every 2.5K nothing but raping her ass from the word say GO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I used the Shell synthetic 5-40 once, made my shifting feel like OLD 6k mile Mobil 1 as soon as I put it in. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I know I'm probably a victim of Mobil's marketing department, but I've been using MX-4T and changing it at about 6K miles. It's the difference between $32 for four quarts of 10W-40 to $20 for a 5 quart jug of 15W-50 at Wally's. The $12 difference isn't much to me over the 6K miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 It's the difference between $32 for four quarts of 10W-40 to $20 for a 5 quart jug of 15W-50 at Wally's. The $12 difference isn't much to me over the 6K miles. Very small when you consider most of us are going through at least $200 worth of tires in that amount of time, too.... :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Oh yeah we send samples off at work.. Trust me.. the sample will show wear, dirt, and all other crap in PPM. Good info.. Wasn't to handy when we had a Caterpiller 980 loader loose a motor.. $50,000 motor went *knock, knock* *BOOM* even after the sample showed everything to be doing great about 30 hrs prior.They are good for what has happened, and let you know of some wear, but can't predict how long a engine will last.. Hmmmmm..... so you are implying that the oil was the reason for the engines demize... or not related at all and nothing in the oil sample warned you of the impending disaster? Why did the motor go? Next Topic, ( From here on it's a free for all, Flame on! ) Oil samples are only as good as the records, maintenance, and Mechanic that know how to use them, and compair them agaist the base line..... and even then they are still only guides. As Elixxer pointed out earlier, it helped him to see that he had lost a ring. ..... The truely funny thing about oil is.... while there are many different brands on the market, no one is willing to post the cold hard facts upon which is better..... just like gasoline, there are tons of different manufactures.... which one of those is better? .... Antifreeze? ... Chain Lube? .. So just what do you think that reports going to tell you anyway? Let's face it... the only reason you like spending $32 on 4 quarts of oil is because it makes you feel bigger. I suppose the next your going to tell me you have a Gold Cock Ring..... stickly for pleasure enhancement. As Don would say " I can hear the Ass hairs ripping now! " ( Now back to your local scheduled Oil thread. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedygeezer Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Hmmm - this is getting a bit touchy. Let me give you some more facts. :twisted: When I sold steel drums to the oil industry back in the 70's, I got to see an oil-fill production line at a Conoco refinery. The day I was there they were producing 10W30 oil and filling quart cans. First down the conveyor line came Phillips 66 cans, next Conoco, next Quaker State, next - you name it. All drinking from the same spigot. When I owned a Goodyear store with 6 gas pumps, the tanks were filled by a tanker from the local Total refinery. It stopped at my place and dropped 10,000 gal. The he went to the Phillips station and dumped some more there. Then he went to the Conoco station and dumped some more. Do these oil companies operate the same way today? I dunno. But it wouldn't surprise me. 10 years ago I bought an '87 Suburban, 350 motor, and 156K on it. I used the cheapest oil I could find, which happened to be O'Reilley's house oil - 99 cents/qt. Changed it religiously every 5k miles. I proceeded to put another 62K miles on it, gave it to one of my daughters a year ago where it now gets driven by her 3 step- daughters. Maintenance? Uh, probably not very much. She says it still runs like a top. But then, its a car motor and not a motorcycle motor, so that obviously is why it still runs. I have other stories, too..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Hmmm - this is getting a bit touchy. Joe, it's an oil thread... Duh! As for my 0.02, I change mine pretty often, because the cost of all of the oil changes on a vehicle don't even come close to buying the gasket set and rings/bearings, not to mention the labor or broken parts. The engines I've personally inspected every component of, get better treatment than the others. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Hmmm - I have other stories, too..... Really!?! I never would have guessed. And the answer is Yes sort of.... they still practice things like that.... it's just not as obvious anymore. I just love stirring you know..... keeps the brain going. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Mikey......only dino oil in my '97. There's nothing wrong with dino oil, especially at the accelerated rate this group changes it. I just like to use synthetic for increased resistance to breakdown. Joe.......same stories here....working on a tanker, you'd pump Sun, Phillips, Mobil, BP.....whatever was next in line from the same tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 My next question: Does anyone change their wieght in the winter? I just put in 5w30. I imagine I'll be doing some riding in the chilly weather. Does this not make sense to people? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 5W30 is car oil, which contains moly. I'd steer away from the 5-30, and maybe go with a 5-40 that is NOT energy saving rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 I've been thinking about throwing regular synth in my '99 along with some moly.........just to flip the bird at established thought and to see what happens. There's nothing to fuck up but the clutch plates, and I know how to change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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