R1dR3d

I was told by a mechanic that a BAD battery can ruin the RR and even the stator under extreme conditons.

that web site sorta sux... or did i just miss the what we have that fits your bike and how much it costs section

Where ( on line ) can I take a look at te Biturbo shock?

Though I can get a deal on the fabrication, it wont be free. It's the effect on the geometry I'm going to need to avoid. Looks like I'll go penske sport... then I can upgrade if I ever feel the need.

I messaged Schnitz from the contact us section of thier webpage asking about using one of these with a 954/929 shock.

sounds like a good plan, I'd have to buy the 'new' shock first then take the bike to a shop that will fabricate the part. I'll check on the cost of that work, can't be much over 50 dollars I'm guessing.

even if this is the 300 dollar dog bone, the shocks only cost like 50 dollars or so I'll see if I can get the lenght of that shock from an ebay seller

Can any one let me know where I can get a dog bone to convert over to a 954 shock?

sorry to bump up an old thread buuuut.... I've seen some 954 and 929 shocks but no 900 rr of the correct year. I'd like to get the dog bone for the 954 shock. Can somebody direct me to a source?

^^ no close though, in Winchester VA. Though I've heard that the shop in Harrisonburg is good too. I live near Front Royal, right by that nice road that runs through the G.W. Forest that goes by Elizbeth Furnace, the back way to 211. Do you ever do Route 211 or 33 runs through the mountains?

at 52,000 miles my valves were all still in spec, at the deal ship they gave me a very nice diagram of what the measurments on each were. Shenandoah Honda is the dealship to go if your going to have you work done by Honda. Too bad your all not close enoguh to go there! but if in Northern VA look them up. It's more inovled to adjust this type of engine comapred to the type of valves in a XR400. I do that my self. Not a chance im doing my XX valves as you need access to a set of shims to pick the ones you need. you dont just get a new shims, you measue and fit a correct size shim.

The stock exhaust is heavy, so you are taking a good number of pounds of when you pull that off. Also, exhaust can change power at certain RPM too, so one exhaust may offer good throtle responce at low RPM and another at mid range. My old DnDs were god awfukl loud once worn but gave good inital throtle responce. The full yosh 4n1 I have now is all up top. It is going to be taken off next spring in favor of soem slip ons and my stock header. thanks for the list, Micron or 2 bothers lookd good

Ive got a pcII, KnN, and a full yosh RS4 (4-2-1) Ive used the file for this combo off the PC web site and feel like I lost soem bottom end and gained a big hit in the mid to top range. That's the full yosh system though, I think the PC helps a little and I need a dyno tune to get any big change from it.

I'll see your zip ties and raise you a $2.49 a box (of 15) 5/16 'nylon rivets' from the local chain automotive parts store.

You guys are funny..... I got size 11 hands and all I do is pull the windscreen, then work one hand up and one down. The concept of snapping that little spring in place is my issue. Smart thing for me to have done would have been to leave one in place for an example. Of course I took them both righ off

I ended up pulling the upper fairing off, for me this was much faster than strugleing with those damn little springs with the fairing on.

It's a sad day at my home, my XX fell over and I can't afford a new upper fairing. The top 'corner' above the mirror and with one bolt for the wind screen came off. I am thinking 'crazy glue' and then 'J B Weld' on the back side. This fall I'll deal with this for a long term fix. But for now it's glue

after I win the lottery I'm getting tires every 4k miles! at well over 50 thousand miles I've been through 5 sets of tires and have the 6th set on now. All were differant tires and I like the Battlax 10s best. I've gone to Batlax 20s after the 10s wore so fast. For my tastes there is no better feeling than a fresh set of sticky tires. With a lot of highway miles always on the agenda for me I feel the flat spot is annoying some what past 4k miles. And generaly after 8 I want a new set and go past that becuase I'm so cheap. Well, broke now after divorce number two.

I notice a faint fuel odor from my oil, I guess it depends on how strong the odor is.

^^ I agree with avoiding the DnDs, they get louder and louder THey did seem to give much better throttle responce on the bottom end though.

moose chain scrubber, I got one for my XR400 and went ahead and got one for the XX too works great, when I commuted on the XX I lubed and adjusted every week ( 700 + miles a week ) then cleaned once a month.

Ive run a variety of oils and filters. Though I have my current favorite combo ,my point is at 52K miles I have a light slip when cold. Ive done more than my share ofwheelies and agressive riding anf think that is my clutch wear more than m non motorcycle oil. I prefer semi synths

Ive been using cheap STP motorcycle filters on my bird for a long time. no truobles at all I think it is a MO 17 and I use Castrol synth blend Frequent oil changes, every 3 miles or sooner some times 1999 well over 50K miles, runs like a top

I order on line and get the off bike mount for about $55 for both. Some places are MUCH higher to mount, some places don't mount a tire they do not sell to you. Some shops will do it cash off the bike but if you call in and ask they quote a higher price or say they do not mount tires not sold at thier shop.

I had DnDs on my '99 and it was cool for a while. But the more I rode the louder they got. Before I tried to repack them I wrecked nad ended up w/ a full Yosh 4-2-1. I 'felt' the bottom end was better with the DnDs. But the noise was just silly after like 35k miles on them. How can I complain after they lasted that long? Ive got 52k total now. Enjoy the XX!