Dano Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 I just bought a 4x8ft flat bed trailer. I'm gonna put a sheet of 3/4" plywood to cover the frame. The thought is I can still take the bird along on trips where the wife doesn't want to do the whole drive alone. I've heard a couple of horror stories of bikes falling off trailers and don't want to repeat. How do you secure the bird? Canyon dancer front end? Where and how do you hold it down securely. Tie downs to eyebolts? It looks like it's gonna be hard to keep the tiedowns off the plastic. Photos of your setups would be great. Thanks for the input. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Canyon dancer for front. ratchet straps for front. Need the hooks on straps onto trailer as forward and as wide as possible, this keeps the straps off the plastic. I put soft ties through can/pillion peg mount and use rear straps just to keep the back end from moving around. Use this setup in the back of my pickup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbillyxx Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 How do you secure the bird? Canyon dancer front end? Where and how do you hold it down securely. Tie downs to eyebolts? It looks like it's gonna be hard to keep the tiedowns off the plastic. My trailer has rails about one foot higher than the bed. I have had good luck with strapping the front tire to the front rail with a nylon strap. Then I hook the front tie downs to the bar risers and tie them to the side rails on the trailer. I use 2 more rachet straps from each rear foot peg bracket to the trailer side rails. Both sets of straps pull down and out to the sides. With the rear ones I try to pull the bike a little towards the front of the trailer. If you position the front ones carefully the rubbing on the fairing can be minimized but not prevented. I use some soft towels wrapped around the strap where it touches the fairing. The ideal strap positions would be from the bar risers to the front corners of the trailer pulling forwards and down but due to the fairing and type of trailer I cannot decide how to acomplish this. If anyone has any better suggestions I am all ears. :idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Well the Canyon Dancer goes over each grip. I have cut some plastic tubing to put over the grip to keep them from riding up. The Dancer has extensions with loops that are about 8- 10" long, strap hooks go through those. If your trailer tie postions are wide enough the dancer keeps the straps off the plastic. See here http://www.canyondancer.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Yeah, and like it was mentioned earlier, if they are close I taped some soft cloth towels around the tiedowns where they touched the fairing to minimalize any paint rub. I only tied down the front end and put one strap through the rear wheel and snugged that up to prevent shifting. Worked fine with no mishaps when I trailered to Myrtle Beach and from there to Deals Gap. Also I put the bike in gear rather than leaving it in neutral. You'd think that would be something you'd always do, but I've seen folks not put it in gear. Minimizes rolling around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Ohhhhh Tim......................... :razz: I have used a trailer and the bed of my truck. I prefer 4 straps, minimum. Never danced in a canyon before though......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Don't foget to use a high quality wheel chock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 I use a Canyon Dancer only. Check the straps every time you fill up, unless you're driving a Prius then you might actually have to stop on your "no stops 1000 mile between fill-up" trips. My bike fell once right after I got it, and that's because I didn't have it tightened down enough and the trailer went off in a 10" deep pothole when I was leaving a motel. The whole right side of the trailer came 2 feet off the ground, so it's no wonder the strap let loose. I've broken a strap before on the interstate with just the Canyon Dancer. The bike leaned over on the kickstand and stayed there until I could get stopped. You don't need rear straps with a 500# bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 I use a canyon dancer also and I broke two rear traps at different times within a hour of each other while coming home from the Hoot last month. Bike never even leaned over to let me know it happened. I discovered it at the next Gas fillup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 I have been using 18" long soft straps (around the fork tubes) then tying down with Ancra brand tie down straps. The cheap tie downs are not worth carring home. I've got a set of Ancra straps that I've had since 1974. I don't use them anymore for the front tie down, but they are still plenty good for tying the rear end....side to side to keep the bike from coming sideways if I would hit a bump while hard on the brakes. I have recently switched over to the Canyon Dancer setup....still use the Ancra straps with it. This setup keeps the straps and "Dancer" away from any plastic on the bike. I still use tie downs on the rear of the bike (one per side) to keep it stable if I would have to make a quick stop on a bumpy road. It's works for me! :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 Don't foget to use a high quality wheel chock! This is most important. Pull the bike into the chock using the straps. You can't use too many straps for me. You know, just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 Here is how I do it,just another way,I don`t know it worse or better. Wheel chock of course,two straps on each side in the front,from triple tree to the trailer inside of the bike to compress forks so only about 1.5 inches of fork travel is left.You could also run one strap from upper tree, wrapped around handlebar few times and down to a trailer just like canyon dancer.Don`t overtighten this strap as it is possible to bend/brake clipons. In the rear one strap on each side but attached to the rear wheel,not body part or frame.That way bike works bumps too and strap won`t brake when suspension rebounds after major bump. When choosing a trailer get something with wheels bigger then 10 or 12 inch.You see many of those with blown tires or bearings becouse small wheels spin like crazy at highway speeds. If you have one of those make sure your tires/pressure are fine and bearings are good and greased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Don't foget to use a high quality wheel chock! Ditto!!!!.....All the straps in the world won't help if the front end decides to kick out over a bump or something. My old trailer had a chock for the front wheel and the center of the trailer had a couple of strips of 3" wide 3M traction tape. the stuff they use on steel stairs...keeps the wheels sticking to the trailer better if the trailer gets wet. BTW - If you use a canyon dancer slide some PVC tubing over the clip-ons first. It will keep the grips from working loose and having to be re-glued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 I also have a 4 X 8 trailer. Mine is a tilt trailer which makes loading and unloading a breeze. On the bottom of the trailer I bolted a 3/4 sheet of exterior plywood. I bolted two 2 X 4s 2 feet long at the front, one on either side where the front wheel sits. I cut the ends of the 2 X 4s facing the rear of the trailer at a 45 degree and smoothed the edges so it wouldn't damage the front tire. Works great. I also use the 3M non-slip stair tape straight up the center to help prevent tire slippage. Do not wrap your tiedowns around the rails of your trailer. It will chew right through them in no time. Use eye-bolts. I also use a quicklink through the eyebolts and through the eye part of the hook on the tiedowns. I don't trust just the hook. A quicklink looks like a chain link with a threaded sleeve or long nut on one side of the link. Unscrew it, slip it through the eyebolt then slip the eye part of the tiedown hook through it and tighten it back down. Then it cannot come unhooked for any reason. Don't ask me how I know about this :shock: You can get quicklinks at Home Peephole (Depot) or some hardware stores have them. Two straps at the front with the Canyon Dancer and two straps at the rear and you should be set. Besure to compress your forks while you tighten the front straps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR-RR-XX-CESS Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 I've heard a couple of horror stories of bikes falling off trailers and don't want to repeat.Dan Tim will help ya You know we love ya Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Anybody have experience with the eye bolts you install in the stake holes on your truck's bed? Looking to trailer the Bird in a month, and that looks like the only option for tying it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 That is what I used on my trailer without the rubber insert. It gets used weekly without any trouble. I have never tried them in the truck bed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 You use nothing? :poke: Where's the freakin' pic, man?! :evil: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violent J Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Â Also I put the bike in gear rather than leaving it in neutral. Â You'd think that would be something you'd always do, but I've seen folks not put it in gear. Â Minimizes rolling around. Not good for your tranny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Anybody have experience with the eye bolts you install in the stake holes on your truck's bed?Looking to trailer the Bird in a month, and that looks like the only option for tying it down. Chris, does your truck not have hooks in the bed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Nope. It's a step side, with a totally flat floor. Only means of tying down is if I install those eyelets. Saw an advertisement the other day where they lifted the back of the truck with a loader & a chain hooked to the two rear eyelets. Have to check them out, but wondering what some of the other guys were using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Ahhhh....that sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Yep. BTW, it's Janet's truck She already gave me permission to drill holes in the floor if need be, but I'm looking for easier options. Anybody using a decent tire chock? Brand names? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I'd stay away from the rubber mounted tie downs in the stake pockets in the bed. I always put Eye bolts in my trucks that don't have attachment points from the factory. Go under your truck and find the bed crossmembers. Drill a hole through the crossmember and through the bed. If your crossmembers are open on the sides, use 3 nuts, if not use two. One on the top of the bed surface with a large washer and lock washer. One on the underside of the bed surface with another large washer and lock washer. and finally, one on the underside of the crossmember. I have had many bikes and refrigerators, furniture, etc tied down with these and they hold very well like this. The crossmember helps with the lateral loading that a flat piece of metal doesn't have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Chris, how about something like this- Those are mouted on the toolbox for when I used to haul two dirtbikes. 3/8" bolt with washers. The old truck had the same ones mounted on the top of the bed wall on either side. I used this setup to haul streetbikes (one at a time) on several occasions, and I'd trust it a lot more than anything rubber mounted. They were around $7 apiece at Autozone and look nice enough when your done hauling your bike to just leave 'em put for next time. I'll be picking up some more myself if I end up taking my truck to NeXXt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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