Violent J

You could buy my Dyna 2000 and set the timing were ever you wanted and it doesn't use the tps. :twisted:

I haven't looked into it. I was going to get my shock revalved and resprung.

We only run the fuel bike 3 - 4 times a year. We don't like to travel very far. The farthest we go is Bowling Green. 10 hrs away. I'm just trying to build my resume up, I want to ride for a living. And if you had the chance to ride a fuel bike, wouldn't you?

Ask and you shall receive! I've been around drag racing for about 15 years now. First seven I was my father's pit crew on his Pro-mod Harley. The last eight I've been racing street and drag bikes and crew for my uncle's top fuel Harley( my new ride for next season) Couple of track championships, and still the king of the 60'. I don't like slicks and wheelie bars either. All they are are chains that hold the monster back. Without them, all that is holding the monster back is ME! :twisted: The monster I'm building now, a Busa. Had Puppet build me an eight over arm. Braced all to hell, looks like off the back of Elmer Tretts bike, but the suspension still is there. Going to need it with 400 - 500 ponnies trying to bend the bike into a taco shell. Elixxer, see ya at Byron next season. I'll be looking for you. :twisted:

Mine whines in third gear when putting through town, don't know why, don't care, it's a Honda, good to go.

If the front wheel is indeed locked, and has not turned, the master will not be applying the rear brakes. You need the front wheel to rotate to apply the rear brake pads. If it stays stationary relative to the brake on the left side, it will stay stationary relative to the brake on the right side too. And it does. J. That is what I thought too. It might be the way I do my burnouts. I don't sit in one spot. I lock the front brake, get the tire spinning,let off the brake a little and then slowly start rolling forward. So the master would be applied. I do this to keep the tire from collecting all the shit rubber other people burn off in the bleach box. Stealth, the rubber collects in the inner fender mostly but it also gets on the swing arm and all over the shock. It's a real pain to clean out.

I just changed my rear pads. Stock pads, 24k miles. It seems the more burnouts you do, the faster they wear because of the stupid linked brakes. I've turned my rear rotor a funny shade of blue also. Does anybody have wave rotors on their bird? How do you like them?

Proper tool? Remove the windscreen? Are you one of those people who can't work on anything without the manual in your hands? Unless they REALLY changed the bikes from 97 - present. Please inform me if I am wrong. My bike is a 97. Each signal has three wires running to them with there OWN (3) male, femal connections. Do the newer models have one signal connection for each turn signal? If so, sorry, the tape would be easier. By the way, you still wouldn't have to remove the windscreen. Just the upper filler pannels in the fairing, two bolts. Different strokes for different folks. :cheers:

Why mess with the wiring when you can do and undo the tape thing in about two minutes?. You can get the bulbs out in two minutes? Damn, your good! If you already have the mirrors out and the bulb in your hand maybe. Its not a big deal to get to the wires, either unbolt the mirror stems from the fairing(2 bolts) or take off the upper trim pieces in the fairing (2 bolts and a push pin). Wires are right there. Tape in the socket is cobby in my opinion.

I use a Translogic electric shifter because at my local track to run in the street class you can't have an air shifter. Works great, alot of road racers use them too.

2 inches ??????? Try a 1/4 inch square directly over the contact. Unplugging the running lights wire from the turn signals too easy or something? :idea: :loony:

I think I paid around $250-$300 for my MRE, but I get stuff at dealer cost through my sponsor. I've heard a MTC 2 stage is way easier to set up. My is set up with no weight on the arms so it doesn't lock up hard until you hit about 6500 RPMs. I ride it on the street every day to work. Get a billet basket too. I got mine from Fallicon, MRE or MTC probably makes them too.

I tried one of those "race" chains. Bad idea, it was non- o-ring so you had to lube it every 200 miles and it stretched all the time. I had to adjust it after every pass at the track. It only lasted a month. $90 shot in the ass.

MRE does, I have one. MTC does too.

I had to straighten my sub frame. The best way I found was to measure from left side of the swing arm to the right side of the sub frame, and then measure right side of swing arm to left side of sub frame. Keep tweeking until the measurement is the same from side to side.