RTGwalt

Man....I'd love to have that but don't have the cash. Aghh!! Nice clean bike.

It's like rubber cement. You apply it to the inside of the rim, where the tire bead will sit. When first applied, it's a slimy liquid, which acts as lubricant to help the bead slide into place. Also it slows pesky air leaks as the bead is trying to seat. After about 10 minutes or so the bead sealer dries up and becomes a rubber coating between the bead and the rim, which helps prevent air leaks in that area. +1 That stuff is the shit!!

Buhahaha!

Let me know if the deal falls through. My friend from work just called to see if it was still available. Walt

some pics to show the damage Son of a biotch! Yikes!

picture YES!!! Finally! Ok to delete now. Walter

whoops...

You guys are cracking me up! Walter

I use the same thing, 6-point sockets of course. I have no use for the 12-point. Actually, I use the 6-point 1/2 inch drive sockets for everything over 14mm. They work great and don't slip.

That is cool! See...That's the way I'd go if I could do it all over again. I think there's much more "support" for the R model than the L. :icon_wall:

Wow...4k seems cheap considering all the work and money. I'm starting to see a patter with the big XR. As soon as people complete the conversion....they sell the bike. It must not be a good motard? Sometimes I wish I had started with the R model in lieu of the L. I like the water cooled and better suspension. I also like the softer suspension and street goodies of the L. And...I ride it on the street more than trail. I'll probably keep it completely stock with one set of strictly dirt and one set of 90/10 road/trail tires. Walter

Hmm.....I'll be looking into that. Thanks for the link and post. Walter

Good idea. I'll try that. I've been watching Thumpertalk. Oooo...that's a good idea, too. I was just talking with a guy nearby that had some loops hanging on the wall. It didn't cross my mind to knock the size down for sport tires. You may have just cost me a few Bills....

Guys, I'm looking for a set of XR650L wheels to keep as spares to switch between dirt tires and street tires. I need the entire assemble so I can just switch them out. The newer the better. I have a 2007. You wouldn't believe how bad the Non-DOT tires stink when driven on the road. Yikes! And spooning them on and off is a pain in the ass. PM me with details. I'm really hoping to find some in like new condition. Seriously...I don't want junk. Thanks! Walter

I watched Wheeler fix a "bent rotor" - the carrier was bent - not the brake surface. He just clamped a marker to the fork, spun the wheel while moving the marker closer to the carrier. As the high spot passed the marker it placed a little ink on it. From there he hit it with a wood block and checked it again. He did this until the marker left a line around the entire circle. The rotor/carrier worked as good as new. Cool trick. Cheap fix. Good as new. Walter

May I introduce my little friend Timmy the Tapeworm?

I agree. More and more...I'm finding you only need to balance the rim. The rubbers are so close, it doesn't make much difference. Regarding the dots - if they're there, I'll certainly match it to the heavy spot of the rim. The rim should have come with a paint dot from the factory - inside and outside. I've seen several where it was a few inches away from the valve stem. I balanced the rim w/o a tire to verify. I've also found the mfg. puts a paint dot inside the rim...so if you have cleaned off the outer dot, you may still find it after you take off the rubber. Just paint another dot on the outside and your good to go. If you don't like that idea, get a crayon and mark it while you have the rubber off. If you take the time to align the dots, you'll get a smoother ride - imho - or...you'll just ride with greater peace of mind. Plus...I think it's good for an extra 5-10hp! RTG

Wow...interesting that the tappered bearings worked so well. bwflorence....your tires are cupped!

I had this problem with my wife's 1993 Nissan. The aluminum rims were corroding on the inside causing the bead to fail/leak. I had to break the bead and apply some sealer. This fixed it. (I had one leaking around the valve stem too. The same thing fixed it.) Camel makes some good bead lube and sealer. You can pick it up at your better auto parts store. Break the bead and slop it on, reinflate, wa-la. Leak fixed. It comes in a quart can and works like rubber cement. Walter

Hey Josh, Interesting observation when I replaced my front sprocket...the thing had significant wear on the inside splines. The new one was nice and tight. The old one wobbled on the shaft. fwiw....

............a bake angle sniffer?? That thing's giving you troubles?? :wink: I wouldn't install one of them things....

Interesting.... Thanks for sharing your findings. Walter

I saw them (pack of ten?) on ChrisChrome.com for $5. I think it's a good site. I've bought from him before wioth no problems. Well known to Goldwing guys. FWIW. Walter

Peter, I think I'd use this stuff. It's looks to be very similar to Honda's product. http://www.permatex.com/heavy_duty/Engines...m&item_no=82194 Walter

When you guys say "the oil filter blows", do you mean the metal splits apart or the rubber gasket blows out causing the torturous oil bath? :?: