XX RATED

Is there any differences between the 35/36 & 45/46 other than a numerical designation for this years tire model? I was talking with a guy at the bike shop I go to and he said that he has gotten better responces from 35/36 owners than that of the 45/46. Some of the guys who wore out last years model & replaced w/this year said they liked the older ones better???? Anybody have any input to this............... :?: I am buying a set and can get either, they are still both avail. Which ones are better - if any?

I adjusted my throttle cables with the top cable (throttle open) having no play [0] - Honda recomends 1/8' play (I believe) but I like it tight. I set the idle @ 1100 rpms. With the throttle set as above, the PC-II & the Mig pipes, I have absolutly no flat spot at all! No exageration - gospel - I swear!

1 down in front is equal to 3 up in the rear. I went with 1 down in front & 1 up in rear = 4 tooth difference. Power wheelies in first & second, clutch wheelies in third no problem. Thoes who have talked about wheelies in 4th - 6th gears (I'm talking wheelies, not getting the frt. off the ground an inch hitting 6th @ 135) - I still need to see it to believe it.

Most bike get a slight wiggle when the front end gets light. The XX can get the front end very light at high rpm's - but nothing that needs a dampener. As for the corner thing, the only thing that should be moving is the rear; not the front - a dampener will not help on a power slide. Don't waste your money on a dampener! As for the fuel - I have a 2000 XX - ergo it's fuel injected - and maybe it's only in my head, but I swear my bike runs better on Premium than on regular. As with any gas engine, even if it isn't noticeable right away, higher octane fuel will burn hotter & cleaner - thus helping to keep your engine running cleaner in the long run.......

Kewl! Soooooo - Did ya' run 'er yet???

:shock: He did what? With what? :shock:

You mentioned that the carbs were rebuilt. Were you having this problem before you rebuilt the carbs? It sounds like a float is stuck in the up position, and the carbs could be out of sync. also - Have you look into this possibility?

Service manual says "replace gasket with every filter change." I'm not saying you HAVE to; but for $5.00 - is it really worth the time & effort if it does leak?

Dave, Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Everything work out ok? By the way - your location is now "NEW" :roll: What happen to fuckin' youlk......... :wink:

Hey Dave - I saw the Gorilla advertised in Cycle World. You like yours? Tell me more about it :?:

Any suggestions on cycle alarms? I would like to get one with a key fob remote, l would also like one that's loud as hell, with a tilt & motion sensor.

EASY! Plan a trip, about 195 miles; and then pass up the "last chance" fuel stop before ending your trip. :wink: Just kidding! As for that last drop in the bottom; I put a cotton towel in the tank to absorb the last bit before painting. Pulled out the rag with a pair of pliers when through. Also; I would be very careful to clean out the tank upon return from repair shop. Sometimes these shops use compound to polish after painting, and the powder can accumulate inside the tank and clog your fuel filter. Since your getting the tank repaired, why not remove your fuel pump and filter prior to shipping (just in case) - and while the tanks out, change the filter. Don't forget to get a new gasket to remount the pump.

Hook, I do need to emphisize one point: I use two sets, 1-upper & 1-lower from Jaws. Rik's set are very nice, I like them alot - but you might find it hard to use a wider pair (like Rik's) on the lower mount; you may have some interference with your lower leg. Just thought you might want to look into that before you spent money on two sets and found out too late.........

Hey Maxx, I always used Chain Wax untill I got a can of the Bel-Ray "clean" chain lube. Works very well for thoes of us who want a clean bike. :wink: I spray the lube on with the chain hot - after a ride; then wipe off the excess with a shop towel and let dry. As the lube is warm - it seeps into the o-ring grooves, seals the spaces between the o/r's and the chain itself, and when it dries - it stays on! Remember to wipe off the excess first....... Good Luck!

Because the info. was lost when the forum went down, I would like to post this for anyone who has questions regarding the Power Commander II's that are on sale at various sites on the internet. Early production units sold through K&N were stocked in the warehouse and were not rotated, so as K&N depleated stock they are now selling off many early production units. Some of the units had instruction manuals which were misprinted and the install instructions were backwards! Upon installing - your bike would not start, but the throttle body would remane "wide open" and flood the engine & possibly the cylinders thenselves. This is called 'Hydra locking". If the bike were to be started with this fuel inside the cyls. - you could blow up your engine!!! As a precaution - anyone who purchases a PC-II labled w/ "K&N" on the command module, should contact the tech. dept. at K&N with the units serial number to varify which way the two plugs should bew hooked up. This will eliminate any potential problems & greif. As stated - the PC-II models in question are in fine working order, it's the instruction manual that is misprinted. I hope this helps anyone who is concidereing installing the unit on their bike. Good Luck!

I have had this conversation with my buddy who is a Honda Service Manager. He & I agree on the following: The correct plugs are "pre gapped" from the factory; and under normal cercumstances require no gapping. It is however possible to gap the plugs, (Platnium or Irridum) if you gap them properly. Only the electrode (center section) is plated - if you force a feeler guage between the electrode and the ground pin (top l shaped part) - you run the risk of damaging the electrode; especially the irridium because it's so small. If you were to lightly insert (with out forcing) a feeler guage between the two, found you needed to adjust, used a gap tool to widen, or slightly tap the top grond rod to decrease the distance - you should not damage the plug. According to what my buddy says - the Irridium plugs are not as delicate as some on this board have said; the only problem is the electrode is much smaller the traditional plugs and you have to take care, as with anything else.

Well first off - I hope you work it out and don't break anything. That being said - if you do brake something (again I hope not) - I'm looking for the L/S inner pc. (black plastic w/ glass mirror inbedded. If you want to sell - Let me know.........

It looks like a muffler bearing instalation tool. :wink:

Anal! eh - eh He said Anal!

Speaking of Shirley - give her my best. I did...... :wink:

It's only BLUE because he holds it soooooo tight!

Hey Alpha - I hear that Avon is comming out with a "300 series" tire! I think at this rate - the chopper guys will be runnin' Hoosires next year!

Carlos, Very simple way to remedy this problem: Brother p-touch lable maker - new lable: "Wheelie Light" Problem fixed! :wink: Glad I could help..................

I clean mine with either brake cleaner, or gasoline. I clean from the inside out - then I blow dry with air comp. K&N sells an oil (which I believe to be machine oil) - but I use it anyway; I spray a small coating over the filter area - OUTSIDE ONLY! I wait approx. 5 min. then I blow dry (freom inside out) again; wipe off any excess oil with a rag & install. Totoal time - approx. 15 min.

Did you spray oil on it before you used it? They come pre-lubed from the factory - wondering if you just had too much oil on the filter????