Keith

Can't help with PCII maps, as I have a PCIII, but I wanted to point out that going down one tooth on the front will not improve fuel mileage, as that gearing increases RPMs at any given speed. To improve fuel economy, you need to increase front sprocket size.

I don't remember exactly (it was over five years ago), but I think they were a bit under $175 installed. One thing I should point out: when the bike is off and the battery is at normal full charge state (~13V, +/-), the grips will stay on if I haven't turned them off. So, it is possible to drain the battery some if you forget to turn them off, but they will turn off by themselves when the charge gets down to the 12.5V level. -Keith

One feature of my heated grips I like is that when the voltage drops below about 12.5V, they turn themselves off, so at idle, they're not on; as soon as the RPMs come up and the charge along with them, the grips turn back on. Kind of a cool feature. The grips are an OEM set for the ST1100, IIRC (the dealer installed them before I picked the bike up new in '03), with electronic temperature control and four heat levels. -Keith

I run heated grips and heated vest without any troubles. Battery charge voltage is good even with both on high.

If the battery is fully charged right now and you pull the headlight fuse, you should be able to make 20 miles easily, even more likely if you have some one give you a bump start to save the juice used to start with the starter motor.

Correct. You have to power the PC in order to get the data out of it and, if you don't have the alternate power source (9v battery adapter), you have to power it with the ignition on. As long as you have a laptop available, it's easier to do it "in place" anyway.

Did he have a custom map made for his 'bird? If not, what's in the Power Commander is more than likely just one of the maps that's on the CD-ROM. See jcrich post below; he has the steps correct. Again, you only need to download the map if it's a custom; if not, just hook up the Power Commander and upload a map from the CD-ROM.

Hook the Power Commander up to a PC via the Power Commander comm cable. Open the Power Commander program on the PC and click on the button that says "Get Map" (Power Commander has to be powered up to do this, so turn the ignition on) to download the map from the Power Commander to the PC, then click button "Save Map". You can send the resulting file as an email attachment.

Interested in the LCH-12 car charger. PM being sent.

I just noticed there's one of these on eBay (not mine): Linky

On the 'bird you don't need to pull any hoses. There's a bolt on the water pump that will allow you to drain most of the coolant. Remove the plug on the front of the engine, as Redbird points out, to get the rest of it out of the block. Then proceed as jcrich outlines.

A non-California spec (i.e. 49 state bike) bike cannot be registered in California unless it is used and has at least 7500 miles on the clock.

It's too bad you didn't put some miles on that thing; I'd be all over it if it had 7500 miles and I could register it in California...

The voltage at the battery should be at least 13.5V at 4000 RPM; I'd say either your R/R or stator (or both) are shot. Get the debug instructions (link posted here on the forum several times - search for it) and find out where the problem lies.

I've seen lines like the one on the left in PRs before, but not the one on the right; that looks like a crack in the photo and, if that's the case, I'd say the tire was defective.

Now that this subject has bubbled to the top again, I wonder if Dave has any updates on this project? Have you had any time to work on a design? If so, how does it look?

Then, before you put the tank back in, shoot some silicone spray lube on the grommets; they won't stick the next time.

'03 with 36k: CCT at about 10k, stator, R/R, and battery (taken out when stator and R/R went) at about 25k.

I wonder why there would be so much variation? Mine ('03) turns on at 216 and off at 200.

I have the same, or very similar, frame plugs, only mine are polished aluminum. I got them from a guy on Ebay a number of years ago. I haven't seen them on there in a long time. They were pretty spendy, IIRC, something like $50 or so.

Did you put it on the charger immediately after a good length ride, or was it after the bike had sat for a day, or two or after a very short ride? If a short ride, the bike charging system might not have had enough time to top off the battery after starting the engine. If after a few days, there is enough trickle out of the battery when the engine is off to slowly drain it. I've found that, even after a long ride, the Battery Tender will show a charging state for a few minutes (maybe five or so) before going to float mode when I hook it up immediately after getting back home.

I would be scared to go much lower than daves. Seems like your feet get dangerously close to the ground with just the inch difference his make. You're right about that; I was dragging the pegs yesterday when being pretty aggressive, so I for sure don't want to go any lower. I was just tossing out the question.

So, could you add these to the lowering brackets from davesxx01 and get some more leg room?

Any possibility of interference with the tire on a hard bump? It sure adds a lot of storage area, especially with your Smuggler. Thanks for the tip! :icon_clap:

I had a similar problem with the ones I purchased from Red J here on the forum, except that in my case, the OEM bolts were too long due to the block off plates being thinner than the PAIR valves, so even though I had tightened them, the covers leaked. Made one hell of a bad noise under there...