rossodave

Well I'm finally selling it after not riding for over a year and a half. Sorry to see it go. craigslist add This bike was made "famous" in one of the .org calendars (2008?) -

-lurker comes out to post- Hey guys I work in a Failure Analysis lab and have access to equipment that could be of some use here. I can take high magnification and high resolution digital photos, measure just about any dimension, identify materials, X-Ray,SEM, cross-section, etc. If you want me to take a look at these for you I can. I may be a little slow getting it done but would be happy to help. I have learned so much on this board over the years. I primarily work on Semiconductor failures but I do have some metallurgy experience. Let me know what you want to do. I live in Fort Collins Colorado. Just a comment on adding the washer to increase the CCT reliability. I would be careful as that surface is probably designed to wear out before whatever it is rubbing on. It is much easier and cheaper to replace a CCT than an internal part of the motor. Just a thought. The idea of cutting a spot to hold the spring sounds like it has some promise to me. Attached are some photos that are a rough example of what I can do with our stereo microscope. They are of a cross section of a an aluminum plate with copper pipes soldered inside of it that we use to cool some MOSFETs.

I'm in Fort Collins. My seat is in fairly good shape I would be happy to let you try it out. Send me a PM if you want to work something out. I have been wanting a Corbin for a while. I don't have any extra seats though so we would have to figure something out if you wanted to try it for a while. Dave

The midpipe and muffler are one piece on the RS-3.

Ummm.... Well.... If you tighten the bolts on the PAIR delete covers you will not have this problem. Sometimes I think my purpose in life is to serve as an example for others. :icon_slap: :icon_slap: :icon_wall: :icon_wall:

Well, I'm almost positive I installed those block off plates with the cut outs in the down position but that is something to check. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help!

Is there something I could have done wrong while changing spark plugs and installing the pair valve delete kit that would make my bike sound like it has an exhaust leak when it's cold?

+1 on Motovation They work.

Nik I have one of these and I have never met a bolt it couldn't remove. I know what people will say about Harbor Freight, but this thing rocks. It is the best 80 dollars I have ever spent there. Bought it two years ago and no issues yet. Dave http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=2623

:icon_hand: Why would a brake bleading kit come with anal beads?

If it kind of feels like you have too much slack in your chain, but you know its properly adjusted then it is probably your "Harmonic Balancer Backlash adjustment". Look it up in the service manual. You have to do some disassembly to do it, but nothing major. You can also put your bike on the center stand, put it in gear, grab your chain and try to move it back and forth. If the front sprocket rotates back and forth you may need to do this adjustment. Dave

You may need to do a Harmonic Balancer adjustment. Made a huge difference on mine.

Cool! What exhaust do you have? Do you have an K&N? You should upload your map to the Power Commander map thread. Oh and is it a PC2 or PC3?

I had a 2000 s-10. The tranny went 2000 miles out of the warranty. :shock: I think you should send it off a cliff and buy something else :twisted:

You don't typically want to run an LED at its maximum rating. I would run them at 15ma each or less. This should give you good light intensity without sacrificing the life of the LED's. I would try a common (easy to get value) of 100 ohms to start with. If you want to see how bright this is just hook up one LED with a 1K resistor. If that is not bright enough step down to another value of like 750 ohms. When you reach the intensity that you would like with a single LED just divide that resistor value by ten and you will have the value for your group of ten. I would definitely keep in mind though, that you do not want to run them above 20ma each. Running higher than this will give you shorter than desireable LED life.