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Blaine

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Everything posted by Blaine

  1. Friday night I changed out the head bearings because a *@$#%^) shop, (that I use to trust), said I needed them changed after I had then change a front tire for me. As soon as I paid for the tire and started riding home I felt a problem with the front end, but they were closing as I left so the next day I went back for them to check it out. Their version was they had checked and lubed my head bearings when I had them change the front tire (WHY?) and found that the head bearings needed to be change, (BUT they forgot to mention this until I came back the next day?!?!?!). Anyway, they quoted me somewhere around $600+ to change them out. WTF??? So I came back home and searched the site for others who had done this and found lots of how to's with pictures and stuff to watch out for. So I decided to do it myself. I order the All-Balls bearings and seals #341-6245, plus the $60+ Stearing Stem Socket, part # 07916-3710101 for the Steering Stem Adjusting nut and a few other tools at Harbor Freight and I was all set to do it myself. As soon as I got home from work on Friday I got all the tools set out and jacked up the front of the bike, Break out the digital camera and take pictures of everything that I'm going to take off or move. Then I got the front brakes out of the way and took the fender and tire and horn off. I undo the clip-ons and move them aside and use a 12mm allen socket to take the Stem Nut Cap off and then losen the allen bolts holding the top Bridge of the triple tree and take it off. Then undo the lock washer tabs and the locking washer and lock nut come off easy. I click the special expensive Steering Stem Socket onto my handy dandy torque wrench and just for the heck of it set it to the torque of 18 ft lbs that it's suppose to be. Humm torque wrench clicks and it still won't budge. I keep cranking it up and finally I max it out at 150 ft lbs and still click and it doesn't move. I had to put my full weight into it and cranking for all I was worth I finally got it to budge. I have no idea what specs they torqued it, but DAMN!!! I am so glad I had that special socket, because if I had tried to undo that steering stem nut with a punch or what ever, I'd have beat the damn thing to death before I was able to get it to move, being that it was torqued down at 200 ft lbs or so. Now I'm pissed at that shop and if I had someone with me to witness the torque settings I'd have been at that shop early Saturday morning with the shop manager in a head lock. No wonder my front end was turning hard, rough and jerky. They cranked down the bearings until they messed them up big time. All that work to replace the bearings just because they wanted to drum up some business and charge me for some thing they caused. AAAAARRRRGGGGGGG!!!! OK a little venting and I'm all better now. Man does the front end turn easily. I have to get use to the easy movement all over again. With the new bearings it turns a heck of a lot better than then the stock ever did. Wow you should see the difference of the two bearings. When you compare the OEM bearing with the ALL-BALLS, they are almost 3 times taller and thicker, just all around beefer. They should last for the life of the bike. I left all the tuperware on my bike when I did this and it saved me a ton of time doing it that way. Now others on the site say you get easier access to the front area and other suggested not to "take it all off" to save time and I went with the time saving way. You do need a 12" center punch to knock out the upper and lower races and with good lighting and a 12 lb short sledge they came out easy. Even though the upper one causes you to do several yoga moves to twist to see upside down and so you can see the top inside edges of the race to make sure your only trying to pop out the race and not the bike frame. I did buy a cheap 1" drive large socket set at Harbor Freight to use as a race press. Again using the right size socket and the extensions with the 12 lb sledge and they went right in, (oh yea I put the races in the freezer starting at the very beginning of the project and they fit in pretty easy when it was time to install them). Now taking the inner race and seal off the Stearing Stem shaft is a bear and I had put that into the freezer as well. I think I could have heated the lower race with a torch and it might have expanded enough to slip off, but at the time I didn't want to go find and set up my propane torch. It finally came off after a log of encouragement using a number of different screw drivers and wedge chisles. Then using a 12" 1 1/4" I.D. pipe, the inner race and bearing slipped right on. I lubed just about everything with bearing grease before putting them together and it helped a whole lot for everything to go back together. Now getting the front legs or forks even is a whole job in itself. I used a digital caliper to make sure they were at the same height and a big framing square to make sure the bottom was even and not one more forward or back then the other. Well what are you sitting there for, go change your bearings or something! Ha ha, have a great evening and thanks to all of you that posted your "How To's" here, they were a huge help.
  2. Welcome to the site and to being a Bird owner. If you ever come to Orlando, let me know and we can go out riding. Maybe I should head up you way, being you have a lot more back roads to get out and ride on. Don't you just love how great the gang is here and how much help they can be, that is as long as you don't ask about hookers.
  3. Hey I checked out the "Free Style Ingeruity" site and e-mailed them to see if I can still get a cage for the XX (the CBR1100XX is not listed on the site). Hey did you have to remove the full stand to get it to fit or did you just take it off? Here's the site for those that want to check it out http://www.freestyleingenuity.com/site/index.php. I have the mushroom sliders and they did help a little on my slow speed slide, but mostly it just bent over and wore down a bunch.
  4. Here's how to make the Steering stem scoket using a deep well 36mm socket http://us.geocities.com/warren1m/steering.html And this guy sells them for $39 shipping included http://www.bigbikeauctions.com/auctiondetails.php?id=1224 Also here's a good discussion with pictures on how to change out the bearings http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31599
  5. Never mind, did a search of it and went to the Seafoam site. Sounds like serious stuff. I'll have to ride out and get some.
  6. OK stupid question, what is "Seafoam" and where can I get it?
  7. Nope dude, none of us will bid against you. Would be silly to run up the bidding to try and get it, knowing you want it. Happy bidding!
  8. What he said, got over 9000 on my 020's before the center flat spot was down to smooth tread. I just changed to Pilot Roads. Seem to be handling great, but mostly have only done a few flat road ride with cruizers and motoring from home to work and back and making the most of those tight curve Interstate on ramps. Anyhew, I keep my tires at 42 psi front and rear.
  9. Great info on the Iridium plug http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technic...spark_plugs.htm A cheaper place to buy them http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/detail.as...uct_id=IMR9A-9H Motorcycle Pro Shop Product Detail Product ID: IMR9A-9H Category: Electrical NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG Description: NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG Price: $15.95 Sale Price: $12.13 Savings: $3.83
  10. The listing for for the cylinder head http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/cyl...linder_head.cfm Here's the listing for the IRM9A-9H spark plug on Ron Ayers http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...ing=98059-5991U S/PLG (IMR9A-9H): Part Number: 98059-5991U Description: S/PLG (IMR9A-9H) Price: $19.03 S/PLG (CR9EHVX-9): Part Number: 98059-5991F Description: S/PLG (CR9EHVX-9) Price: $7.10 S/PLG (IMR9C-9H): Part Number: 31912-MBW-E11 Description: S/PLG (IMR9C-9H) Price: $14.66 Man, what a pain to find something on this site, you have to know to look up the Cylinder Head and then the Spark Plug is listed as one of the parts of the head.
  11. Also you 'll need to push on the calipers to move the pistons back in, to give you space to remove the old brake pads and install the new one. It takes a bit of extended pressure to move the brake fluid back up to the reservoir.
  12. WHAT HE SAID! :pointup: :pointup: Sorry to hear about this man, it really sucks when your bike acts up. :cry: Hope you get it up and running RIGHT, soon.
  13. Yes they are EBC HH's, I didn't get to clean them last night and it rained here today. I'll try cleaning them tonight as I'm going over to Biketoberfest tomorrow, for the day, and don't want to hear that noise all day. May also try the high speed stops. I can see it now, honest officer, I was going fast so I could slow down really fast and seat my new brake pads.! ha ha ha, yea right. That will be my new speeding excuse
  14. Cool, thanks, I'll try that tonight and see if it helps.
  15. Reading post http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...ight=brake+pads and i'll check the pads and shims when i get home. I may swap them out with the OME shims. If that doesn't work, I'll put some of that anti-squeel sutff from Auto Zone and see if that helps.
  16. Anyone had this problem and how's you fix it? :cry: Installed them with the shims on Friday. My outside left front OEM pad was down to the metal on the front edge, after only 9+K miles. But the roators are in great shape. Rode around the neighborhood and did a slow break in and no noise. :grin: Saturday I rode to Biketoberfest and back and no noise all day long. Put on about 150 miles that day. :cycle: Sunday morning going to work and WTF :bigshock: squeeky brakes on my Bird? Also I swear it sounds like they are scuffing along the disk as I ride. :headscratch: Is it ok to use the anti-squeel stuff you use on auto brake pads? OR is there other stuff to fix this on bikes? :loony:
  17. Were can you get Engine Ice? Were can you get Engine Ice? Were can you get Engine Ice? Were can you get Engine Ice? :roll: :poke:
  18. I use the Bridgestone 020's and the Givi's. The 020 has held on all I have it do and it's wearing great. The Givis are great for carrying about anything. I have the ones that you can open part of the top with a combination and then the whole thing with a key, i think they are the E41. The smaller opening is great to get out or put in things like gloves or what-not. They also come off super easy, just turn the key and push a button and you're carrying a suit case. Also I have the Givi WingerRack2, that holds them onto the bike. It has a top rack, for the top bag, that doubles as a rack to bungie thing down to when you need.
  19. Cool deal K-tool, I'll have to sit on it then next time your up at the Steak N Shake.
  20. After less than 1200 miles (it still looked like a new tire with tons of miles on it), I got a nail in the rear tire that caused a slow leak. I thought about plugging or repair it to save money, but was told by most other riders, the service manager at several stealers and on this site, that it was a bad idea for the long haul and to replace it I replaced the stock 057 with a 020. The front looked great so I left the stock 057 front tire. This has worked perfectly for me on the Bird and I had a blast riding in the mountains of Virginia around my parents home and in Tennessee /NC on the "Tail of the Dragon". I rode to my limits and those chicken strips on the rear are long gone. They also do great on the Florida roads. IMHO these tires held and handled perfectly, of course I'm not the expert rider that a lot of these guys on this site are, so check out what they have to say and them make a decision based on what you find out and what you want to and can afford to do.
  21. Amsoil has a superior filter and oil for the Bird. One of the our members that lives in your area should be able to hook you up. You'll be able to pick it up at the local warehouse for the dealer cost.
  22. My new 020 has "4003" as the last 4 digits of the DOT. Humm, I'd have thought they would move this tire faster than that. Lots of us on this site use this tire. I hate that it sat around somewhere, since it was made in the 1st week of October 2003.
  23. Yea, thanks, maybe I'll just put a little super glue and that way the nail will stay in better, huh :cool: Damn, that's a tons of miles on one tire. I'll keep the stop front and the 020 rear until they wear out and then we'll see how they handled the miles and my driving. Haven't done a track day, but would like to sometime soon. Just have to see how aggressive I feel I can be with this tire and then stay within it's and prob' my limits. I've also got the same Givi setup without the top case. And my kids want to ride with me when ever possible, my wife has her own bike and wouldn't here of being a passanger. So maybe I'll get milage close to what you got on this set. Thanks for the input all of you have given me.
  24. Blaine

    Speedo drive

    :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: Oh powerful OZ, you da man, rockmeupto125! I wish I could remember stuff as well as you do and then be able to remember it when I need to talk to someone about it. :cycle:
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